Gold jewelry, whether a bold tubogas collar or stacks of thick, lustrous bangles, has dominated conversations about jewelry trends for several seasons. More recently, mixed-metal styles, perennially embraced by brands like David Yurman, John Hardy and Lagos, have caught the attention of collectors craving wear-everyday pieces that are a little more casual, understated and in keeping with a general 1990s-inflected fashion moment.
But on their own, white metals — and silver in particular — have become newly compelling to quite a few collectors, especially those drawn to maximalist proportions and modernist aesthetics.
Professional jewelry trend tracker Emili Vesilind, editor in chief of the magazine Gem & Jewel, affirms what quite a few 1stDibs sellers have observed: “I’d say we are in a new silver age in jewelry — the enthusiasm for both new and vintage silver is officially off the charts.”
It began as a subtle pendulum shift about three years ago — after so many seasons of yellow gold dominating the marketplace (and fine-jewelry lovers’ Instagram feeds), stores and estate/vintage sellers started noticing an uptick in interest in white metals. Where gold felt classic and comforting, newly minted silver pieces emerged as appealingly futuristic and tech-forward in comparison.
This emerging silver trend also dovetailed with rising gold prices, making the less expensive white metal an even more attractive consideration. That’s true of the gold market today as well, so silver jewelry continues to be an affordable alternative (especially if bold statement jewels are perennially on your list).
Without question, Elsa Peretti’s death, in 2021, had a ripple effect, reviving interest in, and appreciation for, her sculptural silver designs, especially those from the 1970s, like the chic Bone cuff.
Fashion was also a factor: At Bottega Veneta‘s Autumn/Winter 2022 show, Matthieu Blazy sent down the runway a pair of oversize silver droplet-shaped earrings, which became wildly, enduringly popular (as recently as last year, Harper’s Bazaar called the style a “modern icon”). This year, Juju Vera’s Petra Shell necklace supercharged the popularity of silver jewelry. “It’s a new ‘vintage’ piece in my mind, following in the tradition of Elsa Peretti and Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe,” says Vesilind. “And it is currently hanging from the necks of most fashion editors.”
Some signed vintage silver jewelry, especially pieces with a patina indicating age, have always been collectible. Among these are designs by Georg Jensen and his workshop of Danish jewelry artists, including Torun Bülow-Hübe, Nanna Ditzel and Jacqueline Rabun.
Then there are the pieces produced in Mexico by such famous talents and workshops as William Spratling, Margot de Taxco, Antonio Piñeda and Hector Aguilar. Always prized by aficionados, these jewels now “are collectible and in fashion,” says Vesilind.
“Yellow gold has had such an epic run, and I don’t see that run ending at all,” she adds. “But we always want what’s new — and silver and white metals feel really fresh now.”
Where should collectors considering silver jewelry for the first time begin? Here are some ideas.
A vintage David Yurman cable bracelet is a core piece — and easy to find. Don’t overlook ones showing signs of wear — as if you’d swiped them from your favorite aunt’s jewelry box.
“Five years ago, wearing a sculptural silver torque would have looked costumey,” Vesilind says. “Now, it looks incredibly chic.” So let’s just say that the person who has the confidence to wear this sleek Gucci choker to a party is almost certain to get noticed.
Among those looking for something funkier, the most sought-after vintage silver jewelry pieces are those in which maximalism and minimalism intersect. This white-metal wonder by Angela Cummings from 1984 is one enticing example.
You might also consider vintage silver pieces by Robert Lee Morris or an authentic Native American squash-blossom necklace.
Or add a little tough-luxe edge to your look with something more contemporary, like this bold Hermès Galop ring.
