Donatella Versace is often quoted as saying, “Creativity comes from a conflict of ideas.” This embellished minidress, from the Fall 2016 runway collection, seems to be the embodiment of this idea, perfectly reflecting her audacious approach to design.
In true Versace style, this dress was made for the bold. Its graphic print splices the botanical themes and arabesques typical of the house’s signature “Barocco” style, bridging Italy with South Beach. On one side, a flurry of paillettes (think supersized sequins) offers a textural shimmer, while hand-sewn beads carve out an organic, irregular neckline and outline swaths of nude tulle organza throughout the composition. Like water, they flow through the dress’s louder elements, establishing a balance with a tantalizing illusion. In all this glorious chaos, there is a complex harmony. The tension of color and texture, pattern and negative space is deftly manipulated to highlight the female form in a way only Donatella could accomplish.
“It’s not just clothing,” says Elena Bulanek of Timeless Fashion Treasures, who is offering the piece on 1stDibs. “It’s a wearable collage and a reflection of Versace’s experimental couture.”
Donatella recently stepped down from her position as Versace’s creative director — a mantel she assumed in 1997 following the death of her brother Gianni — after the brand’s historic acquisition by the Prada Group. She has assumed a new role as chief brand ambassador, and her successor, Miu Miu’s Dario Vitale, will lead Versace creatively.
Donatella’s trademark blend of indulgent maximalism, sex appeal and southern Italian flair has enticed clients for decades. The house’s couture line is renowned for its lavish embellishment and expert tailoring, making their dresses instantly recognizable — and sought after for red-carpet appearances. The Versace siblings contributed greatly to the rise of the supermodel in the 1990s, promoting the careers of Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Claudia Schiffer, to name a few. And Donatella unflinchingly carried on her brother’s more daring ideas, reviving quintessential motifs like safety pins, liquid “Oroton” chain mail and the bondage-inspired leather and metal of Gianni’s shocking Fall 1992 “Miss S&M” collection.
Going forward, the fashion house’s subsequent collections will no doubt be known as “post-Donatella.” Her indelible mark on the house she inherited is as much a tribute to her beloved late brother as it is to her point of view and prowess as a designer. This dress, a rare piece created by one of the powerhouses of 1990s fashion, exemplifies her fearless, glittering style. Even for a minidress, Donatella always went big.
