Hermes Kelly Crocodile

For devotees, the classic Hermès Kelly bag has a visual poetry and meaning that transcends the bag itself, and Hermès crocodile Kelly bags are extraordinarily rare collectibles in the world of luxury fashion.

Designed for independent women who wanted a piece that was both luxurious and efficient, the Kelly bag has a trapezoid shape, two triangular gussets, a sculpted flap and handle. To this day, the understated bag comprises 36 individual leather pieces, 16 studs and a signature padlock and leather key cover, with three layers of leather at the base to ensure the bag can stand upright. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.

The Kelly bag earned its name during preproduction on Alfred Hitchcock’s 1955 film, To Catch a Thief. Costume designer Edith Head sourced products from Hermès to outfit actress Grace Kelly, who fell in love with the Sac à Dépêches — the house’s original name for the accessory — and continued to carry it long after the movie wrapped. In 1977 Hermès officially changed the item’s name to the Kelly bag.

“The Kelly silhouette has been repeated by brands like Chanel, Ferragamo, Valextra and Gucci,” says Graham Wetzbarger, certified appraiser and authenticator. “That says something about its iconic shape. It’s more important as an example of good design than as an example of social iconography, like the Birkin.”

The Kelly and the Birkin are the most famous of all Hermès bags, and they are considered luxury investments. Though these bags are typically priced at up to $10,000, exclusive and rare bags can get up to the hundreds of thousands.

There are two types of Kelly bags, Sellier and Retourne. Apart from its iconic shape, the Hermès Kelly is also defined by a variety of skins and leathers whose individual characteristics determine how a bag hangs, ages and weathers damage. Just as you might fixate on a certain color for your Kelly bag, durability and texture are important, too, and when it comes to exotic leathers and hides, an Hermès crocodile Kelly bag, which is available in a matte or glossy finish, is a widely coveted version of this beloved design (other exotic materials include ostrich, alligator and lizard).

An extremely popular exotic leather derived from crocodiles farmed only in particular regions of the globe, Porosus crocodile skin is polished using a specialized Hermès technique. Denoted by a circumflex stamped near the Hermès logo, your Porosus crocodile Kelly bag should always be protected from moisture. Each Porosus skin has unique characteristics, adding to its value.

Treating, preparing and processing the highly polished Matte Porosus crocodile skin requires a specialized process involving wool felt and specifically constructed machinery. The technique works best on crocodiles from Asian saltwater regions.

Renowned for its large grain, Niloticus crocodile skin is sourced exclusively from crocodiles in the African Nile River region. With its unmistakably shiny finish, the skin of your Niloticus crocodile Kelly bag is marked with an umlaut symbol to identify quality. 

Matte Niloticus crocodile Kelly bags are made with crocodile skin harvested from the Nile. The material is end-treated with a special matte-ifying process. Due to this treatment, this skin is especially delicate — owners should be cautious to keep their bag from harm, as the damage is often permanent. 

Shop a collection of Hermès crocodile Kelly bags today on 1stDibs.