Berkshires - Evening Dresses and Gowns

Designed by U.S.-based Oscar de la Renta (1932-2014) for his 1975 Resort collection, this deeply-draping two-layer empire-waist silk gown maxi dress is handpainted in a blue-cream-an...

As a variation of the traditional waiter-style apron that Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela reworked with his eponymous Maison Martin Margiela since its first collection for Spring/Summer 1989, this minimalist convertible transparent black chiffon rectangular garment was part of his Spring 1994 collection. The iconic corner-stitched textural white-cotton brand label is stenciled with seemingly contradictory text referencing an earlier Fall 1990 collection. Instead of the blank label that had become internationally recognized among progressive-fashion buyers during the brand's initial five years, this black print was added in this manner for only one collection during its founder's tenure. This distinct typography identifies it a one of his favorites that he re-editioned from his first 10 fashion shows. This season-less self-curated retrospective collection without any new designs was unprecedented in the ready-to-wear fashion industry, which sold only newly-designed clothes typically two to five times annually. In the early 1990s, this old-made-new-again collection was astonishing for a Paris-based high-end brand, for which any lack of fresh designs for Spring had otherwise been attributed to the loss of an artistic director or the outbreak of war. Nevertheless, there are subtle differences of color, material and draping possibilities that make our re-edition unique from the 1990 apron and from later "replicas", which was the term that Margiela printed on a different kind of label for his second self-curated retrospective in Spring 1999 following 10 more collections. Aside from the text-printed brand label with four characteristic hand-sewn corner stitches, the only other element that unified Margiela's first collection of favorites was that all the items were overdyed a darker color so that the clothes were various shades of grey, blue or black depending on the original color of the textile and how much dye the thread/yarn absorbed. The first Margiela apron...

British Vivienne Westwood (1941-2022) designed this corset-style hourglass-shaped red velvet evening dress with its outsized double bow and sheer moire faux-underlay while producing her "Dressed To Scale" collection in 1998 with protege Andreas Kronthaler. A design from this collection set a Westwood-clothing auction record at Christie's London when a corseted silk gown fetched over $41,000. This fresh interpretation of the classic Marilyn-Monroe silhouette was dubbed the "MM Corset Dress" for Westwood's semi-couture Gold Label, while it can still be made-to-measure as a bespoke dress (see photo of model wearing version as a white wedding gown...

Arguable the most significant design in the Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2003 collection--since our versatile garment debuted in different colors on the runway and was worn by the British designer to take her fashion-show bow--this pink-printed dark-grey silk-blend zip-front bubble-shaped mini dress with white-satin stripes and pink piping was a favorite of the show's Vogue critic and her father Beatles co-founder Paul McCarthy. Vogue wrote: "Her hippest new idea came in the form of puffy satin bombers--she transformed one, a fusion of sport and chinoiserie print, into an off-the-shoulder bubble dress. McCartney is so into the glam-bomber idea, in fact, that she bounded onto the runway wearing a black version herself." The garment's voluminous batwing sleeves and stretch-cotton ribbed neckline and hem, plus custom golden-charm two-way zipper, enable it to have two different necklines and lengths to convert to a shorter puffier bomber jacket. Notably, the versatile piece that is subtly printed with mock-Beatles lyrics seems to have been the first tribute fashion-design that McCartney created to reference her father. Prior, she had credited her stylish mother Linda for instilling her with a love of fashion and inspiration for her initial namesake collections, which followed her first commercial collections with Phoebe Philo for Chloe. For background, when McCartney was a young girl in 1978, the mock-rock band The Rutles parodied a Beatles song, which was recorded by EMI as "Ging, Gang, Goolie". Given its lyrics, the chinoiserie-style dragon motifs were substituted by McCartney with bird skeletons...

During John Galliano's first year as French fashion-house Christian Dior Creative Director in Paris for haute couture and ready-to-wear in 1997, he designed for his Spring/Summer 199...

This couture lingerie-like spaghetti-strapped black silk-satin apron vest--with extraordinary graphic cutwork featuring a heavily hand-beaded breast-plate and appliques--was custom made by a young designer for a New York City female...

British Alexander McQueen (1969-2010) designed this curvaceous uniquely-draped wool and hand-shredded silk-chiffon black cocktail-dress evening-gown for his Autumn/Winter 2002-2003 collection "Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious", which set a ready-to-wear $37,500 auction record in 2020 for its complimentary black billowing silk coat. Comparatively, a 1stDibs midi-dress listing similar to ours from his subsequent fashion-season collection for a raw-edge-cut silk chiffon red dress for Spring/Summer 2003 in good condition sold for $10,144. Our intricate ruched semi-transparent silk chiffon and sleek lined opaque wool hourglass midi dress is in very good condition. Although made in Italy, the tagged size 38 will suit a French 38/US 4-6. Like the 2020-auctioned coat from Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious, the gown is also among the few that encapsulate this collection according to Alexander McQueen, who was quoted by magazine Numero: "This collection was inspired by Tim Burton. It started out dark and then got more romantic as it went along." This is why The Met Costume Institute showcased a runway ensemble including the aforementioned coat in its museum retrospective, "Savage Beauty", a year after the designer died...

While John Galliano was also creating his early Christian Dior haute-couture fashion collections as its acclaimed creative director, for Fall/Winter 1999 ready-to-wear for his ongoing eponymous Paris-based fashion house, the Brit designed this teal-green woven-wool day-to-evening dress with a luxurious bias-cut satin silk underlay and couture-like finishing. Evidenced by this dress, at that time Galliano was championed by the editors of U.S. Vogue as the leader of the sleek ultra-feminine trend. The influential magazine had earlier helped to establish him in Paris with a U.S. financial backer for an independent atelier and in America among high-end retailers--from where this dress was purchased by the sole owner, but never worn. Although its streamlined elegance that creates a striking silhouette has the look of a conservative linear dress...

American Tom Ford, for his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent Paris/Rive Gauche while also creative director at Gucci, designed this Spring/Summer 2001 black formal evening gown...

In the 1960s, the Paris-based revolutionary futurist haute-couture designers included Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne, who was the last to died in the 21st Century in...

In the 1990s, French Thierry Mugler (1948-2022) designed this haute-couture labeled and numbered corset-style topstitched zigzag-panel ecru 100%-cotton-denim cocktail dress, which is...

U.S.-based Oscar de la Renta (1932-2014) for Spring 1982 created a number of styles of bold vibrant uniquely-handpainted crepe-de-chine caftans that helped define his five-decade fas...

Vintage c.1980s Hanae Mori little black dress in black crepe, body skiimming style, with square neckline and knee-length straight skirt with back slit. The special interest comes fro...

Sheer black lace dress from the 1930s with a fitted bodice through the hips and bias-cut skirt with scalloped seam going from low to high, where...

Odette Barsa was primarily renowned for her exquisite lingerie, produced from the 1930s-1970s, and this vibrant red print ensemble may have been originall...

Donna Karan metallic gold crochet lace dress with a complementary silk charmeuse slip dress underneath. The crochet dress skims the body and features a de...

For his design mentor Rei Kawakubo's Japanese brand Comme des Garcons, Junya Wantanabe made this inimitable semi-transparent white taffeta floaty ruffled-V-neck sleeveless pullover dress with distinct parachute elements, cutwork, and adjustable ruching and draping as "Look 1 and 2" (see photos) for the Parisian fashion show debut of his Spring/Summer 2003 collection. The stunning combination of contrasts range from romantic-to-combat themes, gathered-to-flowing construction, raw-to-finely-finished edges, soft-to-hard materials, and gossamer-to-dense textural fabrics. Secured on the exterior of the dress with bold silver hardware, the parachute-like 100%-cotton grosgrain straps are mostly enclosed within multiple diagonal and vertical ruched channels to enable symmetrical or asymmetrical draping and lengthening of the thin synthetic fabric into multiple swags. Strap ends can freely hang from the functional hardware on the front of the dress and below its sides--as if they could be yanked to release the fabric into a drifty parachute sail. With the potential to be a stunning formal overlay if worn with a minimalist wedding gown or long skirt, the reverse side of the voluminous dress is equally remarkable for its ruffled diamond-shaped cutout at the lower back, where it is intersected by a trio of linked thick straps that are secured to a looped ruched channel. This creates an elongated bustle with a dramatic central 19-inch slit between the two swags that each extend 43 inches below the outer shoulder hem. This premiere-catwalk dress is distinguished from others in Wantanabe's "Parachute Jumper" collection by the complexity of its top. Two ruched straps form an X-shape via silver hardware at the upper back, extending to the front over the shoulders to form an adjustable face-flattering ruched V-neck with silver-hardware-linked narrow straps. The soft folds of the neckline contribute to the raised ruffle collar, as well as flow to the shoulder seams. The hand-cut hem was designed unfinished and meant to fray, although it has not given its minimal wear and very good condition consistent with only age and storage. See our photos of the care/material tags. All tags remain, including from the Italian concept-store 10 Corso Como, where it was purchased in Milan. The "Made in Japan" size is a large-running "S" due to the pullover and adjustable style of the dress, which is equivalent to an Italian-size 44 or U.S.-size 6. Beyond a convertible dress...

Kathryn Dianos long red dress in a rayon and nylon blend fabric featuring a set-in midriff with two ties, a deepv neckline and raglan cap sleeves. The b...

For a formal special event, this 1980s maxi dress sleeveless gown by American designer Victor Costa features glamorous glossy red satin that is gathered, ruched and topstitched in bo...

Victor Costa at his dramatic best. Feel like a princess in this black strapless evening dress with its velvet bodice and tulle skirt. The sweetheart strapless bodice is fitted throug...

Judy Hornby Couture voided silk bias-cut evening dress with deep cowl neck neck and layered hem, both layers trimmed with pearls. Long sleeves with gathered shoulders and pointed wri...

While at Paris-based Balenciaga in late 2007, Nicolas Ghesquiere designed this 100%-silk bias-cut paneled dress that explodes with a grey and pale-yellow flower print and features un...

This timeless quintessential corseted, shirred, ruched and topstitched "little black dress" produced by Victor Costa in the 1980s was made for the high standards of New York's trendsetting Bergdorf Goodman. It was the first U.S. luxury department store to order exclusive special-occasion dresses from this Texas designer and subsequently to give him a namesake in-store boutique. He soon became associated with the feminine glamorous gowns worn by "PYT" (Costa-speak for pretty young things) on the Dallas-based television-series "Dynasty", which idealized status-conscious Texan women mostly via fashion. With a strapless curvaceous sweetheart neckline (spared from '80s shoulder pads!), narrow sinuous folds of crepe silk-blend jersey cross diagonally below the decollete, while contrasting vertical ruching defines the seven bones of the invisible corset structure that is fully lined on the interior. Under the bust in front below the empire-like peaked high waist, the fitted tucked underlay of the cocktail dress wraps around the back to end as an overlay in front, where the opening on the left side extends to the bodice like a discreet slit. The freely hanging bias-cut overlay in front is gathered underneath each breast for a forgiving central drape that adds additional curves to make the wearer's torso underneath appear in sleek condition despite a potentially less than ideal figure. The dress closes with a concealed zipper in the center of the back, with exterior hook-and-eye fastening to narrow the waist. There is a second concealed hook-and-eye fastener at the top of the zipper. Although the only remaining tag is the Costa/Bergdorf label, it is a contemporary U.S.-size 8, which will also suit a large-busted size 6 or a svelte size 10. Now 88 years old, Victor Costa (b.1935) became widely known by the 1980s in The States for perfecting affordable luxurious gowns that could be mistaken for one-of-a-kind flamboyant designs by foreign couturiers Christian Lacroix, Arnold Scaasi, Oscar de la Renta or Valentino Garavani. Early on, the avid female sketcher...

In 1996, Japanese Junya Wantanabe (b.1961) made this sculptural red whorled-rose jacquard padded cocoon coat/evening jacket/cape to convert to an equally unique and versatile asymmet...

From one of the last fashion collections for French Maison Martin Margiela by its renowned founder Belgian artist Martin Margiela before he prematurely retired in 2009, this asymmetr...

Stunning Pauline Trigère 1970s ensemble in black wool crepe, the simple dress underneath an unusual reverse cape/shawl terminating in deep black fox trim at t...

Jean Louis Scherrer classic black coatdress with tuxedo detailing in its taffeta spread collar and four-button wrists. The body is shaped with fron...

Beautifully crafted Bill Blass two-layer dress, the main body a strapless sheath of repeating ribbon stripes in aqua, mint, beige and gray. Skimming over this is a sheer net sleevele...

In the early 1990s in France, Paris-based Azzedine Alaia (1935-2017) designed this knit pullover chemise-style sleeveless lavender violet viscose dress that features bias panels in b...

This couture lace transparent red-and-black floral-pattern silk sleeveless evening midi dress, with an eyelash-lace boatneck and hem, is constructed with torso tucks above and below ...

With the finest fabric and tailoring--the base expectation for all progressive minimalist luxurious fashions designed for powerful women by German Jil Sander before the Prada-buyout ...

This antique Native American brown chamois suede leather sleeveless chemise dress, which was handmade during the "reservation era" between 1870-1930, is made from two soft supple ani...

One of Victor Costa's best designs, this strapless cocktail/evening dress is fashioned of white satin and black velvet alternating horizontal stripes with fitted bodice leading to an...

Anne Fogarty maxi dress featuring a scooped and ruffled neckline, cap sleeves, and empire waist fastened with a black velvet sash; one deep and one shallow ruffle at hem complement t...

Norman Norell is well known for his sequined creations. Here is an unusual version that, though unlabeled, is unmistakably Norell.

A casual style predominates, from th...

Stravropolous designed beautiful evening clothes and is especially known for his chiffon creations. This navy chiffon dress, from the 1980s, shows h...

1980s royal blue coat and dress with charcoal beading in geometric patterns and hearts. The open coat reveals a V-neck, 3/4 sleeve dress underneath...

1960s evening dress by Malcolm Starr in pale pink satin with beaded emellishment throughout. This consists of primarily silver beads in various shapes and sizes, the body covered wit...

Judy Hornby multicolor silk print dress featuring a bias cut, double-tiered handkerchief hem, a deep V-neckline, and puffed sleeves. The British-born designer made her way to the Uni...

Quintessential Geoffrey Beene in cut and detail, this stunning and sophisticated gown is composed of olive green satin with black wool crepe panels strategically integrated into the ...

Cocktail dress featuring an all-over black sequin bodice and a gunmetal satin skirt, the bodice with jewel neckline and long sleeves, the satin skirt with box pleats sewn down with a...

Like his contemporaries Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beene, and Oscar de la Renta, Chester Weinberg was a star NY designer during the 1960s and '70s, as well as a respected teacher at Parsons School of Design, where Donna Karan was one of his protegées. After his untimely death from AIDS in 1985, his name and work were largely forgotten, save for those in the know. This dress is an example of his work, c.1970, composed of a black matte jersey bodice with long sleeves and mock turleneck and a velvet wrap-style skirt. The high waist, zippered wrists, and skirt slit edge are ornamented with gold and velvet...

Isabelle Allard 1980s strapless dress and bolero jacket in white faille with tiny black polka dots. The shaped and fitted dress is trimmed at the bustline and faux flap pockets with ...

Brocade gown in a geometric silver and charcoal pattern featuring a wide, square neckline, empire waist, and long sleeves. The skirt is gathered under the waist seam and there are sl...

Rich burgundy velvet 1960s dress by Kiki Hart featuring an empire bustline trimmed with a band of black soutache and jet beads. A rolled turtleneck, na...

What fun! Victor Costa evening dress in dotted black net, the ruched bodice and tiered skirt decorated with multicolored mini pompoms. Long fitted torso, back zipper, lined with narr...

Sophisticated and sexy at the same time, this Ungaro design features a deep cowl neckline that plunges to the waist in front, the cowl held together at the bust line with a tab studd...

Don Sophisticates shift-style dress in silver and peach geometric brocade featuring a front zipper with rhinestone-ball pull up to its mock turtleneck, short sleeves, and small patch...

Hard-to-find 1930s cocktail dress in excellent condition with a scoop-neck, sleeveless bodice of black silk charmeuse and a tiered skirt of black lace. The bodice is studded with rhi...

An unusual example of the work of Greek/American master Stavrapoulos, known especially for his fluid chiffon creations. This shift dress, with open neckline and three-quarter sleeves, appears to be made from an antique embroidered shawl...

1930s beige lace dress featuring a square neckline, short sleeves, and a dropped waistline with slight shirring at the sides, where there are slits at the hem; the front and back pan...

A unique vintage find, this ensemble consists of a long black maxi skirt and sleeveless top, its floral design repeated in cut-out appliqués down the left side of the skirt. the A-li...

Classic and timeless cocktail dress in black lace with black floral beading throughout. Simple sheath styling with round neckline, three-quarter sleeves and metal zipper in back. Dr...

Fabulous long sheath of black crepe with allover beading in a squiggle design of black bugle beads. Narrow body hugging design with straight neckline front and back and cut-in armhol...

A summery 1970s cocktail dress in polyester chiffon print of yellow leaf design on a white ground, the round-neck bodice embellished with vertica...

1960s medium-weight silk shift dress in a beautiful shade of pink. The construction features a yoke at top that extends over the shoulders to form cap sleeves. The simple straight sh...

Great LBD by Gianfranco Ferre. Of black crepe, the fitted sleeveless sheath features an empire stitched satin band with bow, squared armholes and overlappi...

Hanae Mori evening dress of black silk, the bodice fashioned of a black-on-black butterfly design embellished with pastel beaded butterflies. Dropped waist, high neck, and long sleev...