Berkshires - Fashion

Among the Greek-goddess-inspired mini dresses that Alexander McQueen (1969-2010) designed for his first haute-couture Givenchy collection in 1997 and ...

A beautiful float of a dress, this Yves Saint Laurent evening caftan-style gown is crafted of black silk chiffon printed asymmetrically with a white abstract floral/leaf pattern belo...

With intricately hand-embroidered pink-tone ombre reflective rose flowers and 20-inch hand-knotted tassel fringe on all sides, this museum-quality antique 85-inch-square ballet-pink ...

Handmade by legendary New York Times fashion-scene photographer and prior midcentury couture milliner Bill J. Cunningham (1929-2016), this rare asymmetrical black supple leather hat ...

Made in Italy, this Emanuel Ungaro Paris double-ruffle-trimmed bright red layered baby-doll evening cocktail mini dress features a handpainted-tulip print that has different effects ...

British Stella McCartney for her eponymous brand's second collection for Fall/Winter 2002 designed this airy layered silk-chiffon empire-waist cap-sleeve rose-color pullover blouse, ...

Handmade in England in 2004 by recent-Louvre-museum-exhibited British Duro Olowu for the debut of his eponymous brand, this mixed-print silk kimono sleeve empire-waist mini dress fea...

During John Galliano's first year as Christian Dior Artistic Director for French haute couture and ready-to-wear in 1997, he designed for his Spring/Summer 1998 collection this bias-...

This Comme des Garcons black flared-hip fitted shirt cum open jacket, which features a unique feminine bustle-like applique hand-stitched into draping bias-cut pleats layered around ...

For his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche while also creative director at Gucci, Tom Ford designed this Spring/Summer 2001 black two-layer peek-a-boo delphos-silhou...

Designed by Oscar de la Renta (1932-2014) for his Resort 1975 collection, this deeply draping two-layer empire-waist maxi dress gown is hand-painted on white silk in a blue-and-cream...

Vivienne Westwood (1941-2022) designed this corset-style hourglass-shaped red velvet evening cocktail dress with its outsized double bow and sheer moire faux underlay for her "Dressed To Scale" collection in 1998 with then decade-long protege Andreas Kronthaler. A design from this collection set a Westwood-clothing auction record at Christie's London when a corseted silk gown fetched over $41,000. This fresh interpretation of the classic Marilyn Monroe silhouette was dubbed the "MM Corset Dress" for Westwood's semi-couture Gold Label, while it can still be made-to-measure as a bespoke dress (see photo of model wearing version as a white wedding gown...

While sleek cloche hats were the rage in Art Deco "flapper" fashion, this fur-felt hat was commissioned by Parisian couturier Elsa Schiaparelli and hand-crafted by an Irish milliner ...

Oscar de la Renta (1932-2014) for his Sprint/Summer 1982 collection created a number of styles of bold vibrant uniquely handpainted crepe-de-chine caftans that helped define his five...

Callaghan mid-calf-length dress crafted of purple cotton knit featuring a unique one-shoulder design with a long, fitted torso and a full, heavily gathered skirt that falls from the ...

As a variation of the traditional waiter apron that Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela reworked with his eponymous Maison Martin Margiela since its first collection for S/S 1989, this minimalist convertible transparent black chiffon rectangular garment, which can be styled as a tied face veil, wrap skirt or dress, was part of his 1994 first retrospective collection. The iconic corner-stitched textural white cotton brand label is stenciled with seemingly contradictory text referencing an earlier Fall 1990 collection. Instead of the blank label that had become internationally recognized among progressive fashion buyers during the brand's initial five years, this black print was added in this manner for only one collection during its founder's tenure. This distinct typography identifies the garment as one of his favorites that he reproduced from his first 10 fashion shows. This season-less self-curated retrospective collection without any new designs was unprecedented in the ready-to-wear luxury-fashion industry, which sold only newly-designed clothes typically two to five times annually. In the early 1990s, this old-made-new-again collection was astonishing for a Paris-based high-end brand, for which any lack of fresh designs for Spring had otherwise been attributed to the loss of an artistic director or the outbreak of war. Nevertheless, there are subtle differences of color, material and draping possibilities that make our re-edition unique from the referenced 1990 apron and from later "replicas", which was the term that Margiela printed on a different kind of label for his second self-curated retrospective in Spring 1999 following 10 more collections. Aside from the text-printed brand label with four characteristic hand-sewn corner stitches, the only other element that unified Margiela's first collection of favorites was that all the items were overdyed a darker color so that the clothes were various shades of grey, blue or black depending on the original color of the textile and how much dye the thread/yarn absorbed. The first Margiela apron...

The best-known writing instrument of all Montblanc collections, this Meisterstuck Classique features six gilt rings and a clip on the black resin rollerball pen with a pull-off cap, ...

These 1990s Casadei limited edition black patent-leather, calf-leather and ornamental-Chinoiserie metallic-embroidered satin-bound mules with towering five-inch heels are supported by a unique platform with cut-out sides. The pair pays homage to traditional Japanese geta sandals...

These couture Roger Vivier Paris platform stilettos with a heel height of four-and-a-half inches feature dark-chocolate brown fine Italian leather and leopard-print animal hair with ...

Clearly inspired by early-20th-Century French designer Paul Poiret (see our photo from TheMet museum exhibit of a 1911 ensemble), Stella McCartney designed these one-off balloon pant...

Versatile c.1980s mink jacket that converts to a vest by removal of the sleeves. The thigh-length jacket features a light fox open collar that extends to the hem and furnishes a nice...

For Comme des Garcons Spring/Summer 1997 iconic collection titled "Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body", which was nicknamed lumps-and-bumps, Rei Kawakubo designed this navy two-piece set of transparent pullover long-sleeve net tulle blouse and convertible translucent bias-cut draping long skirt or tube dress debuted on the runway in "Look 11" among the Vogue coverage (partly concealed under a navy open robe). Significantly, our pair repeats the fashion show's "Look 1" theme--which was interpreted by TheMet museum curators as "clothing-absence/body-presence"--with a see-through symmetrical top revealing breasts and a bias-cut draped asymmetrical skirt that clings to body curves. Variations of this silhouette were modeled in white, navy or red. Many had net-encased organ-shaped down pillows freely inserted into net underlays by the designer to shockingly distort the silhouettes with impossible feminine curves, such as with two kidney-shapes on the back or a tube across the front of the hips. This set will likewise accommodate such padding that is apparent in the Vogue photos...

Arguable the most significant design in the Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2003 collection--since our versatile garment debuted in different colors on the runway and was worn by the British designer to take her fashion-show bow--this pink-printed dark-grey silk-blend zip-front bubble-shaped mini dress with white-satin stripes and pink piping was a favorite of the show's Vogue critic and her father Beatles co-founder Paul McCarthy. Vogue wrote: "Her hippest new idea came in the form of puffy satin bombers--she transformed one, a fusion of sport and chinoiserie print, into an off-the-shoulder bubble dress. McCartney is so into the glam-bomber idea, in fact, that she bounded onto the runway wearing a black version herself." The garment's voluminous batwing sleeves with stretch-cotton ribbed neckline and hem, plus custom golden-charm two-way zipper, enable it to have different necklines and lengths, so that it can also be styled as a bomber jacket. Notably, the versatile piece that is subtly printed with mock-Beatles lyrics seems to have been the first tribute fashion-design that McCartney created to reference her father. Prior, she had credited her stylish mother Linda for instilling her with a love of fashion and inspiration for her initial namesake collections, which followed her first commercial collections with Phoebe Philo for Chloe. For background, when McCartney was a young girl in 1978, the mock-rock band The Rutles parodied a Beatles song, which was recorded by EMI as "Ging, Gang, Goolie". Given its lyrics, the chinoiserie-style dragon motifs were substituted by McCartney with bird skeletons...

For his Gucci F/W 2001 collection, Tom Ford designed this sleek leather-and-knit pullover that features a suede collar and plunging V-neck front that drapes in a reverse V-shape on t...

Convertible clutch in faux tortoise shell features a textured goldtone clasp and gold chain. The chain folds away to convert to a clutch. Fabric interior with side compartment. Made ...

Odette Barsa was primarily renowned for her exquisite lingerie, produced from the 1930s-1970s, and this vibrant red print ensemble may have been originall...

A lightweight coat from the 1960s composed of a nubby off-white wool and featuring a straight cut with dolman sleeves, a small mink collar, and a single-breasted closure system with ...

c. 1970 mink jacket in a soft golden shade features a spread collar and comes with a brown leather sash belt. One fur hook and an interior tie keep allow ...

Vintage taupe bathing cap in "pixie" fringe style with one rhinestone at top. Size Small.

This couture lingerie-like spaghetti-strapped black silk-satin apron vest--with extraordinary graphic cutwork featuring a heavily hand-beaded breastplate and appliques--was custom made by a young designer for a New York City female...

A unique find, this tunic top is composed of vertical rows of openwork metallic thread in shades of blues and lavender and features butterfly sleeves and scooped necklines back and f...

Acquired from the French flagship Christian Dior Boutique in Paris when John Galliano was its artistic director of both haute-couture and ready-to-wear, he designed this hip-accentua...

Black cardigan from the 1950s-'60s embellished with black beads and sequins. Sweater composition is lambswool, angora and nylon and has tiny spherical ...

Golden mink stole of simple, yet novel, design, it sits around the shoulders and gracefully frames the upper chest, neck and face. Constructed of three skins, the longest hugs the ba...

Luxurious fisher coat by Alixandre, known for high quality furs. Simple styling featuring a notched collar and round, padded shoulders, the vertical skins ...

Rosenfeld c.1960s evening bag with chain of gold metal metal molded in a quilted and wave design. A gold metal triangular clasp, echoed on the rever...

Lovely style and fabric in this summer dress of lavender voile embroidered allover with a repeat linear pattern in white and edged with a narrow white scallop. The shirt-style dress ...

Stella McCartney debuted for the runway finale of her Fall/Winter 2002 collection this unique ethereal lingerie-like transparent silk georgette blouse as Look 36 among the Vogue cove...

With Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela's original blank white textural cotton corner-sewn label from the early 1990s visible above the structural hole in the center of the circular knit, this openwork yarn top that is clearly a one-of-a-kind "Line 0" Artisanal garment by Maison Martin Margiela is crocheted from a brown soft animal-hair blend into a see-through changeante pattern recalling a collapsed spiderweb. A prominent European dealer sold a similarly designed but longer deconstructed openwork mohair-blend grey cape that also features a circular knit hole. Its remaining additional tag indicates that it was produced by Margielas' longtime Italian knitter Miss Deanna for the Autumn-Hiver 1993-1994 collection. Further, we have found similar one-of-a-kind Margiela openwork-knit and unraveled pieces, as well as one with oversized snaps like the fasteners on our top, dating back to his 1992 collections. Suggesting that our listing could have been from an even earlier collection, Antwerp fashion museum MoMu featured a pale deconstructed mohair knit sweater dating from 1990 in its major Martin Margiela 20-year retrospective (see our snapshot), which was an exhibition produced in collaboration with the designer during his final year at the house in 2008. Based on other Margiela couture pieces with more than one remaining identification tag, the design of our cardigan without a remaining text tag began as a vintage top collected by Martin Margiela to upcycle or reproduce, and/or it was made-to-order by Miss Deanna before he finished it to some degree with his Paris-based team. Our knit fastens with pompon-tipped yarn ties, along with two signature silver oversized-snap buttons, which most noticeably appeared on Margiela tops in 1994 for a collection that was inspired by toy-doll wardrobes and included human-sized reproductions of actual miniatures. For price comparison, another 1stDibs dealer currently lists a silver-oversized-snap-fastening brown faux-leather windbreaker "doll" jacket by Maison Martin Margiela for upwards of $7,000. Also on 1stDibs, two other Margiela 1990s...

A profusion of multicolored beads and sequins adorns the surface of this eye-catching evening jacket. The mostly pastel beads cover the entire black silk surface in a riotous patter...

From the Spring/Summer 2000 collection that Rei Kawakubo described as "beautiful chaos", this purple-overdyed grey stretch knit short-sleeve pullover top, which is perceived as diffe...

1997 arguably marked the pinnacle of Japanese Comme des Garcons founding designer Rei Kawakubo's collection debuts when she introduced deconstructed asymmetrical "lumps and bumps" padding and transparent tops that both deformed and revealed female bodies. For the Fall/Winter "Adult Punk" collection, she designed this transparent ecru organza pullover blouse, whose bodice and lower long sleeves are color-blocked with white textured silk-blend appliques and lined in white tulle that is hand-sheered above the outer hem. A recent Parisian exhibition at Musee de la Mode, "1997 Fashion...

These deconstructed black balloon pants by Comme des Garcons founder Rei Kawakubo premiered on the Paris Fashion Week runway for her Spring/Summer 2003 collection. Featuring unique c...

Embodying Yohji Yamamoto's unique mix of Japanese classic fashion draping and construction with Savile Row menswear tailoring for women, this convertible wool white-pinstripe grey re...

A finely woven shawl in ivory wool bordered with lace. Large square in excellent condition. Beautiful, lightweight hand. Bergdorf Goodman label.

A dramatic look in this 1970s gown of polyester matte jersey featuring a strapless, shirred bodice with long scarf ties attached at center; these can be worn in several ways over the...

As French couture made by Martin Grant at his Paris atelier in the Marais in the mid-1990s, this pale grey plaid lightweight-wool slit-skirt suit has many hand-tailored elements that...

Given the stenciled "YSL" logo that had been created in 1961 while the founding fashion designer was only producing haute couture, paired with the French-blue bordered "Yves Saint La...

Walborg Art Deco inspired evening bag composed of black and gold beads, both reflective bugle beads and mat seed beads, arranged in a geometric pattern of squares and rectangles. Bot...

Sheer black lace dress from the 1930s with a fitted bodice through the hips and bias-cut skirt with scalloped seam going from low to high, where...

Wide-brimmed natural straw hat w/wide navy velvet band and red fabric roses. Small high crown perches on top of head, does not pull down, lined in taffeta. Wide brim, 5 1/2 inches at...

Flattering mahogany mink hat featuring a broad, upturned brim and a round crown. The brim is stiffened to hold it shapeand edge can be unrolled for a straighter brim. Lined in black ...

While a revolutionary futurist fashion designer in the late 1960s, Paris-based Paco Rabanne (1934-2023) created for an French haute couture client this hand-painted silk chiffon shaw...

Bonnie Cashin weatherware cape in tan poplin, c.1960s-'70s. The knee-length cape incorporates two of the designer's trademarks - the large patch pockets and the snap closures. These ...

Made by a Jean-Paul Gaultier accessory designer during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week in January 2004, this custom-made feather headpiece with a black long three-prong hair comb fe...

Koos van den Akker cotton jacket is distinguished by the patchwork for which the designer is known and features an autumn color palette. The cut is long with fullness across the top,...

Romeo Gigli's jacket offered here reveal the influences of both his architecture background and his historical references. Minimalist. yet highly detailed, the jacket is crafted of a...

Handmade in England in 2004 by recent-Louvre-museum-exhibited Nigerian-born British Duro Olowu for the debut of his eponymous brand, this mixed-print silk-trimmed kimono sleeve empir...

A unique double coat, the main piece of silky black and brown print featuring a sable collar that continues down the front of the coat to the hem. It is lined with the same fabric an...

With an elegant tucked front and artful drama on the back, this Gianni Versace Couture S/S 1996 black crepe short-sleeve lined mini dress features peek-a-boo art-like cut-outs as Luc...