Berkshires - Fashion

Definitely a one-of-a-kind piece, this pastel-colored artisan jacket is composed of various materials, primarily suede and canvas, and is trimmed in snakeskin and spotted fur strips....

As arguably the most versatile garment that former fashion designer Martin Margiela made with his eponymous Paris-based Maison Martin Margiela, this convertible draping double-faced ...

Among the Greek-goddess-inspired mini dresses that Alexander McQueen (1969-2010) designed for his first French Haute Couture Givenchy collection in 19...

Handmade by legendary fashion-scene photographer for The New York Times and prior midcentury couture milliner Bill J. Cunningham (1929-2016), this rare asymmetrical black supple leat...

British Stella McCartney for her eponymous brand's second collection for Fall/Winter 2002 designed this airy layered silk-chiffon empire-waist cap-sleeve rose-color pullover blouse, ...

These 1990s Casadei limited-edition black patent leather, calf leather and ornamental Chinoiserie metallic-embroidered satin-bound mules with towering five-inch heels are supported by a unique platform with cut-out sides. The pair pays homage to traditional Japanese geta sandals...

John Galliano, while Christian Dior Artistic Director for French Haute Couture and ready-to-wear, designed for his Fall/Winter 2005 collection this bias-cut, layered, silvery semi-tr...

Vivienne Westwood (1941-2022) designed this corset-style hourglass-shaped red velvet evening cocktail dress with its outsized double bow and sheer moire faux-underlay for her Dressed To Scale collection in 1998 with then decade-long protege Andreas Kronthaler. A design from this collection set a Westwood clothing auction record at Christie's London when a corseted silk gown fetched over $41,000. This fresh interpretation of the classic Marilyn-Monroe silhouette was dubbed the "MM Corset Dress" for Westwood's semi-couture Gold Label, while it can still be made to measure as a bespoke dress (see photo of model wearing version as a white wedding gown...

With intricately hand-embroidered pink-tone ombre reflective rose flowers and 20-inch hand-knotted tassel fringe on all sides, this museum-quality antique 85-inch-square ballet-pink ...

As a variation of the traditional waiter apron that Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela reworked with his eponymous Maison Martin Margiela since its first collection for S/S 1989, this transparent black chiffon rectangular garment, which can be styled as a tied face veil, jabot, wrap skirt or dress, was part of his first retrospective collection in 1994. The iconic corner-stitched textural white cotton brand label is stenciled with seemingly contradictory text, which notes the F/W 1990 collection in which the original design debuted. Instead of the blank label that had become internationally recognized among progressive fashion buyers during the brand's initial five years, this black print was added in this manner for only one collection during its founder's tenure. This distinct typography identifies the garment as one of his favorites that he reproduced from his first 10 fashion shows. This season-less self-curated retrospective collection without any new designs was unprecedented in the ready-to-wear luxury-fashion industry, which sold only newly-designed clothes typically two to five times annually. In the early 1990s, this old-made-new-again collection was astonishing for a Paris-based high-end brand, for which any lack of fresh designs for Spring had otherwise been attributed to the loss of an artistic director or the outbreak of war. Nevertheless, there are subtle differences of color, material and draping possibilities that distinguish our garment from the 1990 one and from later "replicas", which was the term that Margiela printed on a different kind of label for his second self-curated retrospective of 10 more collections in Spring 1999. Aside from the text-printed brand label with four characteristic hand-sewn corner stitches, the only other element that unified Margiela's first collection of favorites was that all the items were overdyed a darker color so that the clothes were various shades of grey, blue or black depending on the original color of the textile and how much dye the thread/yarn absorbed. More so, the materials of the retrospective garments differed from their debut collections. In a silk-like floaty gossamer fabric suggesting a dress lining, our matte synthetic garment in an extraordinarily fine weave was cut and sewn with hems and topstitched ribbons at two corners on one of the longer sides, which gives the noted women's US-size 6 the most styling possibilities--although it can be worn by virtually anyone in more than one way. The flat stiff woven ribbons may be repurposed tailoring or bias tape. As we have sold multiple Margiela apron...

While also Gucci Creative Director, for his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Tom Ford designed this Spring/Summer 2001 black two-layer peek-a-boo delphos-silhouette draping evening gown. It features a Ford-signature plunging V-neck above ruched center-seams that support side-draped cut-out opaque panels. For discrete see-through effects under the draping, it overlays a fully attached black semi-transparent figure-hugging stretch-silk maxi dress. At this turning point in fashion history, French founder Saint Laurent (1936-2008) planned to retire by early 2002 with his last haute-couture collection--after selling his Parisian business to luxury conglomerates that named American Ford its director. Crystalizing the iconic brand's sex appeal at his first YSL show, Ford debuted in Paris tuxedo-inspired womenswear in mostly black or white, which included this dress that conjures an ancient Greek female sculpture...

Arguable the most significant design in the Stella McCartney S/S 2003 collection--since our versatile garment debuted in different colors on the runway and was worn by the British designer to take her fashion-show bow--this pink-printed dark-grey silk-blend zip-front bubble-shaped mini dress with white-satin stripes and pink piping was a favorite of the show's Vogue critic and her father Beatles co-founder Paul McCarthy. Vogue wrote: "Her hippest new idea came in the form of puffy satin bombers--she transformed one, a fusion of sport and chinoiserie print, into an off-the-shoulder bubble dress. McCartney is so into the glam-bomber idea, in fact, that she bounded onto the runway wearing a black version herself." The garment's voluminous batwing sleeves with stretch-cotton ribbed neckline and hem, plus custom golden-charm two-way zipper, enable it to have different necklines and lengths, so that it can also be styled as a bomber jacket. Notably, the versatile piece that is subtly printed with mock-Beatles lyrics seems to have been the first tribute fashion-design that McCartney created to reference her father. Prior, she had credited her stylish mother Linda for instilling her with a love of fashion and inspiration for her initial namesake collections, which followed her first commercial collections with Phoebe Philo for Chloe. For background, when McCartney was a young girl in 1978, the mock-rock band The Rutles parodied a Beatles song, which was recorded by EMI as "Ging, Gang, Goolie". Given its lyrics, the chinoiserie-style dragon motifs were substituted by McCartney with bird skeletons...

Given the stenciled YSL logo that had been created in 1961 while the founding fashion designer was only producing haute couture in Paris, paired with the French-blue bordered "Yves S...

Walborg Art Deco inspired evening bag composed of black and gold beads, both reflective bugle beads and mat seed beads, arranged in a geometric pattern of squares and rectangles. Bot...

For his design mentor Rei Kawakubo's Japanese brand Comme des Garcons, Junya Wantanabe made this inimitable translucent white taffeta floaty ruffled-V-neck sleeveless pullover dress with distinct parachute elements, cutwork, and adjustable ruching and draping as runway Look 1 and Look 2 (see photos) for the Parisian Fashion Week show debut of his S/S 2003 collection. Significantly, no other Wantanabe collection is represented by more garments at The Met Costume Institute. In our dress, the stunning combination of contrasts range from romantic-to-combat themes, gathered-to-flowing construction, raw-to-finely-finished edges, soft-to-hard materials, and gossamer-to-dense textural fabrics. Secured on the exterior of the dress with bold silver-tone metallic hardware, the parachute-like 100%-cotton grosgrain straps are mostly enclosed within multiple diagonal and vertical ruched channels to enable symmetrical or asymmetrical draping and lengthening of the thin synthetic fabric into multiple swags. Strap ends can freely hang from the functional hardware on the front of the dress and below its sides--as if they could be yanked to release the fabric into a drifty parachute sail. With the potential to be a stunning formal overlay if worn with a minimalist wedding gown or long skirt, the reverse side of the voluminous dress is equally remarkable for its ruffled diamond-shaped cutout at the lower back, where it is intersected by a trio of linked thick straps that are secured to a looped ruched channel. This creates an elongated bustle with a dramatic central 19-inch slit between the two swags that each extend 43 inches below the outer shoulder hem. This premiere-catwalk dress is distinguished from others in Wantanabe's "Parachute Jumper" collection by the complexity of its top. Two ruched straps form an X-shape via silver hardware at the upper back, extending to the front over the shoulders to form an adjustable face-flattering ruched V-neck with silver-hardware-linked narrow straps. The soft folds of the neckline contribute to the raised ruffle collar, as well as flow to the shoulder seams. The hand-cut hem was designed unfinished and meant to fray, although it has not given its minimal wear and very good condition consistent with only age and storage. See our photos of the care/material tags. All tags remain, including from the Italian concept-store 10 Corso Como where it was purchased in Milan. The "Made in Japan" size is a large-running "S" due to the pullover and adjustable style of the dress, which is equivalent to an Italian-size 44 or U.S.-size 6. Beyond a convertible dress...

Black plush wool maxi coat features double-breasted styling and self sash. The coat buttons up to the pointed collar. Set-in sleeves with two buttons at each wrist and shoulder epaul...

The best-known writing instrument of all Montblanc collections, this Meisterstuck Classique features six gilt rings and a clip on the black resin rollerball pen with a pull-off cap, ...

Black faux astrakhan coat that features a detachable cape. The fitted, princess-style body is single breasted and fastens with 8 black stone and silver...

While a revolutionary fashion designer in the late 1960s, Paris-based Paco Rabanne (1934-2023) created for a French couture client this hand-painted silk chiffon shawl, which can be ...

This Dolce & Gabbana grey soft virgin-wool fine-knit sleeveless strapped V-neck evening-cocktail dress, which was made in Italy for a mid-2000s Fall/Winter collection, features a...

Valerie Porr produced an eponymous line of quintessentially 1970s clothing, many of the styles based on the wrap silhouette, from her Soho loft that was retailed through her neighbor...

Valerie Porr produced an eponymous line of quintessentially 1970s clothing, many of the styles based on the wrap silhouette, from her Soho loft that was retailed through her neighbor...

With his signature beige color and elegant minimalist bodycon style, Italian Giorgio Armani (1934-2025) designed this semi-transparent 100%-silk pointelle knit sleeveless fit-and-fla...

With Martin Margiela's original blank white textural cotton corner-sewn label from the early 1990s visible above the structural hole in the center of the circular knit, this openwork yarn top that is clearly a one-of-a-kind Artisanal garment by Maison Martin Margiela is crocheted from a brown soft animal-hair blend into a see-through changeante pattern recalling a collapsed spiderweb. A prominent European dealer sold a Margiela F/W 1994 similarly knit but longer deconstructed openwork mohair-blend dark grey cape-like "maxi cardigan" that also featured a circular knit hole and spiderweb aesthetic. Its remaining additional tag indicated that it was produced by Margiela's longtime Italian knitter Miss Deanna. Further, we have found similar one-of-a-kind Margiela openwork-knit and unraveled pieces, as well as one with oversized snaps like the fasteners on our top, dating back to his 1992 collection. Suggesting that our listing could have been from an even earlier collection possibly knit by Margiela's mother, Antwerp fashion museum MoMu featured a pale deconstructed mohair sweater dating from 1990 in its major Martin Margiela 20-year retrospective (see our snapshot), which was an exhibition produced in collaboration with the designer during his final year at the house in 2008. Our design may be a vintage style collected for reproduction before the new commissioned top was deconstructed with his Paris-based team. Our knit fastens with pompon-tipped yarn ties, along with two signature silver oversized snap-buttons, which appeared on Margiela tops most noticeably in 1994 for a collection that was inspired by toy doll wardrobes and included human-sized reproductions of actual loose-fitting miniatures. For price comparison beyond the recent record-breaking Margiela auctions in Paris, two other Margiela 1990s...

A lightweight coat from the 1960s composed of a nubby off-white wool and featuring a straight cut with dolman sleeves, a small mink collar, and a single-breasted closure system with ...

Small 1960s crocodile handbag from Artbag on Madison Avenue, NY, features an envelope style top with snap closure and double handles that attach belo...

Versatile c.1980s mink jacket that converts to a vest by removal of the sleeves. The thigh-length jacket features a light fox open collar that extends to the hem and furnishes a nice...

Stella McCartney debuted for the runway finale of her F/W 2002 collection this unique ethereal lingerie-like transparent silk georgette blouse as Look 36 among the Vogue coverage. Wh...

While John Galliano was artistic director of French Chistian Dior Haute Couture and ready-to-wear in Paris, he designed this hip-accentuating bateaux-neck sleeveless sheath dress wit...

Halston shift dress in camel ultrasuede accompanied by a matching tie belt with ivory plastic buckle, likely dated to the late 1970s-early 1980s. It is basically constructed of two p...

Tom Ford for his Gucci Spring/Summer 2001 collection toyed with the mid-century concept of nude sex-appeal embodied by the initial Playboy-bombshell Marilyn Monroe, who inspired that season's designs and ad campaign. With the themes of bare skin and black-seamed sheer stockings, Ford's opening looks on his fashion-show runway featured ecru corset dresses with black transparent or leather overlays and stiletto heels. Our versatile ecru leather tuxedo-influenced sharp-shoulder dinner jacket is from the same award-winning collection. Significantly, 2001 was the year that Tom Ford (b. 1961) won the Council of Fashion Designers of America womenswear award for Designer of the Year, while The Met acquired Ford's signature corset dress for its Costume Institute collection. Purchased at the Gucci boutique on Manhattan's Upper East Side, this "Made In Italy"-labeled jacket is tagged size 40, while suiting a US-size 4 to 6 with the padded shoulder-to-shoulder seam measurement of 15.4 inches and 23.6 inches arm length. The jacket is streamlined by marked and angled peak lapels, sleeve vents with concealed buttons, back symmetrical vent, and single-point closure near the interior seam via a tiny Gucci branded silver-tone metal clasp. Notably, these elements are among the most technically challenging to tailor. Fully lined in ecru silk-blend fabric, the jacket's left interior chest pocket sports button-and-fabric-loop closure and a fully sewn larger black Gucci brand label. For styling inspiration, we added photos of the jacket worn over our not-included black-tulle-covered ecru strapless balconette corset dress, which was the Gucci Spring/Summer 2001 fashion...

Luxurious fisher coat by Alixandre, known for high quality furs. Simple styling featuring a notched collar and round, padded shoulders, the vertical skins ...

Made by a Jean Paul Gaultier accessory designer during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week in January 2004, this custom-made feather headpiece with a black long three-prong hair comb fe...

While John Galliano was also creating his early Christian Dior haute couture collections as its acclaimed creative director, for F/W 1999 ready-to-wear for his eponymous Paris-based fashion house, the Brit designed this teal-green woven-wool day-to-evening dress with a luxurious bias-cut silk satin underlay and couture-like finishing. Evidenced by this dress, at that time Galliano was championed by the editors of U.S. Vogue as the leader of the sleek ultra-feminine trend. The influential magazine had earlier helped to establish him in Paris with a U.S. financial backer for an independent atelier and in America among high-end retailers--from where this dress was purchased by the sole owner, but never worn. Although its streamlined elegance that creates a striking silhouette has the look of a conservative linear dress...

Made in France, this Balmain Paris vibrant reddish-orange knit mini dress in reflective dense viscose features dozens of spaghetti-strap-laced yellow-gold eyelets that line both seam...

A unique double coat, the main piece of silky black and brown print featuring a sable collar that continues down the front of the coat to the hem. It is lined with the same fabric an...

Convertible clutch in faux tortoise shell features a textured goldtone clasp and gold chain. The chain folds away to convert to a clutch. Fabric interior with side compartment. Made ...

1950s-'60s cropped ivory sweater covered in ABA sequins and studded throughout in a turquoise bead and pearl motif; turquoise beaded edging is further ad...

Navy convertible clutch, the exterior enhanced front and back with a set-in white rectangular border echoing the shape of the bag. The bag features...

As conceptual art while he transitioned to French luxury house Hermes Creative Director in 1998, Martin Margiela--whose creations today debut mostly in contemporary-art galleries--de...

Black velvet three-quarter coat in black velvet embellished with gold sequined leaf design curving from the shoulder to the armhole. Collarless, with balloon sleeves and white quilte...

For the late British designer's Spring/Summer 1999 fashion show, this Vivienne Westwood runway-look three-piece ensemble of a black corset-sty...

A profusion of multicolored beads and sequins adorns the surface of this eye-catching evening jacket. The mostly pastel beads cover the entire black silk surface in a riotous patter...

A unique find, this tunic top is composed of vertical rows of openwork metallic thread in shades of blues and lavender and features butterfly sleeves and scooped necklines back and f...

Odette Barsa was primarily renowned for her exquisite lingerie, produced from the 1930s-1970s, and this vibrant red print ensemble may have been originall...

Vintage taupe bathing cap in "pixie" fringe style with one rhinestone at top. Size Small.

Nicely styled and fashioned Bill Blass pea coat from the 1970s in beige gabardine. Double breasted with nautical-theme buttons, tabs at the wrists and at the neck, and straight, slas...

For his Gucci Fall/Winter 2001 collection, Tom Ford designed this sleek leather-and-knit pullover that features a suede collar and plunging V-neck front that drapes in a reverse V-sh...

This vintage amusing enameled silver pendant adjustable-chain unsigned necklace, belt or novel interior decoration features heart-shaped two-inch...

Galanos black wool coat, c.1970s, featuring an open spread collar and patch pockets with buttoned flaps. It is A-line in shape and is single breasted, with three buttons down the fro...

Lilli Ann black wool coat constructed iff four graduated tiers with a slightly A-line shape, each hem and the round neckline trimmed in black velvet. There are three rounded buttons ...

Holly's Harp black jersey dress with the company's characteristic tiered construction and lettuce edging. This example, from the late '70s-early '80s features a deep V-neckline, wher...

Embodying Yohji Yamamoto's unique mix of Japanese classic fashion draping and construction with Savile-Row menswear tailoring for women, this early 1990s convertible wool white-pinst...

Brown tweed wrap coat by Bill Blass features wide lapels, menswear style patch pockets and a matching tweed belt with buckle. Deep back vent. Brown taffeta lining. Approximate size 6.

A dramatic look in this 1970s gown of polyester matte jersey featuring a strapless, shirred bodice with long scarf ties attached at center; these can be worn in several ways over the...

This Azzedine Alaia (1935-2017) black Spring ensemble features a new-condition triple-zipper fine-denim bodycon skirt from the iconic 1986 Alaia Paris brass-zipper collection. For a ...

While sleek cloche hats were the rage in Art Deco "flapper" fashion, this fur felt hat was commissioned by Parisian couturier Elsa Schiaparelli and hand-crafted by an Irish milliner ...

c. 1970 mink jacket in a soft golden shade features a spread collar and comes with a brown leather sash belt. One fur hook and an interior tie keep allow ...

As French couture made in the mid-1990s by Martin Grant at his Paris atelier in the Marais, this pale grey plaid lightweight-wool slit-skirt suit has many hand-tailored elements that...

Zoran's modern design transforms the poncho into an elegant piece of outerwear. This example is crafted of camel-colored cotton velvet lined with a coordinating silk. It is distingui...