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Couture ThierryMugler 1990s CorsetStyle SilkLined Denim WideShoulder Power Dress

About the Item

In the 1990s, French Thierry Mugler (1948-2022) designed this haute-couture labeled and numbered corset-style topstitched zigzag-panel ecru 100%-cotton-denim cocktail dress, which is fully lined in ecru 100% silk. It suits the revolutionary glamazon power-dressing that defined his bold collections since the early 1970s, which was in sync with the women's movement that championed equal executive pay. Similar versatile day-to-evening dressing for divas by Mugler has garnered auction sales topping US$20,000 dating back to a royal-blue skirt suit in 2011. The one-of-a-kind hourglass-shaped dress is in excellent condition. The blue tag "Thierry Mugler Couture" is sewn over the slightly worn specification tag noting "Made In France" in size FR40 (US6-8). Featuring Mugler's distinct sharply exaggerated feminine proportions to bring drama to body consciousness, this double v-neck below-the-knee dress is unusually wearable given its angelic pale color and durable construction with angled panels in the shape of a corset topstitched by 18 horizontal rows. The linear cap sleeves sleekly extend the shoulder-line by inches on each side remarkably without pads, while offering glimpses of the contrasting shiny silk lining. The wide shoulders make the zigzag bust panels, multi-seamed bodice, and angular waist panels appear tightly corseted, although there is only an invisible zip and hook-and-eye fastening on the side. While a ready-to-wear designer who had branded his own collections since 1973, Mugler was one of the few to go on to launch his namesake couture brand, which he debuted in Paris in the 1990s under the auspices of the French Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Since his theatrical fashion shows quickly increased the audience for couture, Mugler became the first designer to receive an invitation to show regularly on the haute-couture calendar. From the turn-of-the-century to his death, Mugler shifted his creativity from producing clothing collections for empowered women to designing theatrical one-offs for celebrities and performers from Elizabeth Taylor to Lady Gaga, along with developing additional perfumes since his 1992 trailblazing best-seller Angel. Recently, the multidisciplinary designer's first retrospective, "Thierry Mugler: Couturissime", was exhibited at NYC's Brooklyn Museum, which had been initiated, produced and circulated by the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts in collaboration with Maison Mugler.

Designer:
Thierry Mugler Couture
Brand:
Thierry Mugler Couture
Dimensions:
Marked Size: FR40 (EU)
Style:
power dressing (In the Style Of)
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1990-1999
Material Notes:
Topstitching of 9 horizontal rows on each angled panel structures the bust and waist into a corset shape, while shoulders are widely extended by horizontal cap sleeves without pads.
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. A shoulder measurement is irrelevant as there is no arm-seam restriction due to the horizontally extending cap sleeves, while the dress will flatter a trim waist for those accustom to sizes FR38-40, US6-8, or IT42-44.
Seller Location:
Chicago, IL
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU3244218117992

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Thierry Mugler Couture

Fashion as sculpture, as avant-garde expression, as spectacle: Thierry Mugler’s career pushed the boundaries of what fashion design and clothing could mean. In the 1980s and ’90s, the late French designer's couture shows were theatrical and futuristic, similar to those of his contemporaries Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix.

Mugler (1948–2022), who went by Manfred in later years, founded his brand in 1973 with his first personal collection. By the late 1990s, he was more famous for his fragrances, thanks to the brand’s best seller Angel. But vintage Mugler dresses and gowns have recently returned to red carpets, worn by stars like Kim Kardashian, Cardi B and Hailey Bieber.

Mugler’s penchant for performance, drama, costuming and innovative shows came from his background in ballet, having danced as a teenager with the Opéra national du Rhin in his hometown of Strasbourg, France. In one of Mugler’s shows, the then-pregnant legendary supermodel Pat Cleveland (part of the coterie of glamorous muses associated with designer Halston) was suspended from the ceiling and then glided down the runway surrounded by clouds of smoke.

Mugler would become known for his immaculate tailoring as well as for his increasingly avant-garde designs that featured sharp cuts, sexy and fetishistic elements, an integration of metal and uniquely treated materials like PVC and leather. Recent years have seen Mugler’s archival designs, especially from his 1995 haute couture show, take center stage, coinciding with the resurgence of camp in fashion and the return of bodycon dresses.

The French cosmetics company Clarins SA acquired Mugler’s brand in 1997, and its founder stepped back from the label in 2002. The house’s roster of clients has included some of the most visionary figures in fashion, from David Bowie and Diana Ross to Beyoncé and Lady Gaga, and the founder’s influence on over-the-top fashion can be seen in the work of designers such as Jeremy Scott and Alexander McQueen.

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