From the prismatic Pleats Please collection to the modular, three-dimensional garments crafted from recycled plastic bottles in his Reality Lab, the captivating fashions by Japanese designer Issey Miyake are all about movement.
Born in Hiroshima, Miyake studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo before relocating to Paris in 1965, where he studied couture and cut his teeth working for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy. In 1969, he moved to New York, where he worked for Geoffrey Beene. He returned to Tokyo in 1970 to found his first solo venture, the Miyake Design Studio. It wasn’t until the 1990s, though, that the designer had his breakthrough moment with experimentations in pleating. Some of his earliest explorations were for choreographer William Forsythe’s Frankfurt Ballet Company, with the 1991 performance of The Loss of Small Detail featuring costumes Miyake designed with pleats that complemented and transformed the movement of the dancers.
Though long a staple in couture — from delicate women’s skirts to men’s suit pants — pleats took on new life in Miyake’s hands. By using a heat press to cure his fabrics after his garments are stitched, Miyake was able to maintain the accordion structure of the pleat, turning a series of folds into sculptural, often futuristic forms unbound by the shape of the human body. In 1993, Miyake debuted “garment pleating” in his Pleats Please line, in which the clothes are constructed at a size that is larger than what is intended for the finished product. The pleats are then created — a process that involves folding and ironing and is separate from the joining of seams — and individual pieces are subsequently hand-fed into a heat press. The pleats are permanent and the garments can be worn and washed without losing their shape.
Miyake’s pleats run the gamut in scale, which enabled him to evoke dramatic, sharp silhouettes and flowy movements in equal measure. In essence, he created an entirely new material whose iterations are infinite — a feat of technology as much as fashion.
Other innovations include Miyake’s 1997 Just Before collection, which introduced a series of tube-knit dresses that could be cut as desired, reducing both work and resources. His Reality Lab now investigates new materials, such as a fully recycled polyester. Miyake’s prowess, in fact, captured another iconic figure in the tech world: Steve Jobs, for whom the designer made hundreds of identical black turtlenecks, the late Apple founder’s sartorial signature.
Find a collection of vintage Issey Miyake day dresses, jackets, shirts and other clothing on 1stDibs.
CHANEL 07P Black Stretch Knit Crochet Classic Sleeveless Tank Shift Dress 38
By Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Chanel
Located in Chicago, IL
Designed by Karl Lagerfeld for the CHANEL spring 2007 collection. Variation in knit design add beautiful texture and elegant details to this classic...
Christian Dior by John Galliano Collector Asymmetric Leather Bondage Dress
By John Galliano for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in Los Angeles, CA
John Galliano's 2000 collection for the House of Dior eighteenth-century inspired asymmetrically cut dress fashioned of black soft lambskin leather. Dress features a gathered pulle...
1980S THIERRY MUGLER Black Rayon Blend Crepe Asymmetrically Draped Cocktail Dre
By Thierry Mugler
Located in New York, NY
Tagged a European 36 1980S THIERRY MUGLER Black Rayon Blend Crepe Asymmetrically Draped Cocktail Dress With Sheer Lace Back & Sleeves
Rodarte Homage to 1960's Tie-Dye Maxi Dress Neoprene Collar
By Rodarte
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Rodarte tie-dye motif creates an unusual and exotic look that was part of Rodarte's F/W 2013 collection. The Rodarte brand is now part of major museum collections such as the Costum...
Adriana Papèlle Beaded Evening Dress
By Adrianna Papell
Located in Milano, IT
Shimmering evening dress designed by Adrianna Papell in the 1990s, made in Italy. ORIGINAL LABEL. The dress is an evening gown and is ankle-length. It has straps and a very high and composed neckline, which leaves a rhombus of skin on the bare breast, which gives a touch of elegance creating a see-through effect. The dress falls softly, but tightens at the waist, so as to highlight the sensual points of the female body. The dress has a side slit to envy, which brings out the sensuality of the leg. The focal point is its very bright black beaded weave...
H 60 in W 19 in D 0.05 in
Moroccan Elegant Velvet Kaftan Blue and Silver Caftan
Located in Moreno Valley, CA
Elegant Moroccan caftan deep midnight blue velvet embroidered with silver metallic threads, circa 1970s. This long maxi dress kaftan is embroidered and embellished entirely by hand. ...
Gianni Versace 1997 Couture fall black leather gown
By Gianni Versace Couture, Gianni Versace
Located in CAPELLE AAN DEN IJSSEL, ZH
Gianni Versace was an influential Italian fashion designer who founded the Versace brand. In the fall of 1997, he presented his couture collection in Paris, which was widely acclaimed for its opulent fabrics, bold prints, and intricate detailing. The collection featured several notable pieces, such as a black evening gown with a plunging neckline and a gold-encrusted jacket. However, just a few days later, on July 15th, 1997, Gianni was tragically murdered outside his Miami Beach home. Despite his untimely death, his contributions to the world of fashion continue to be celebrated, and his legacy remains an inspiration too many. This collection is iconic as it’s the final collection before his passing. The collection very much showed a new direction for the house. Which was heading away from the bombshell curves and souped-up sex appeal that the house previously focussed on. But took more Inspirations to the new wave John Galliano and Mcqueen were leading. MET Gala: Salma Hayek y sus mejores momentos en la alfombra roja Vogue For the 1997 Met Gala Salma Hayek wore a very similar Gianni Versace look...
Etro Black Cocktail Dress with Dotted Tulle Sleeves and Satin Hem
By Etro
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
Etro black cocktail dress with dotted tulle sleeves and satin bias ruffle hem. Flirty dress has princess seams and is pieced with wool and satin, it is fitted through the torso. Long...
Vintage Janice Wainwright Black Embroidered Art Deco Maxi Gown
By Janice Wainwright
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Vintage Janice Wainwright Art Deco-inspired black wool long sleeve maxi dress featuring an embroidered pendant necklace at the neckline, fron...
Vintage Jil Sander Black Dress with pleated shoulder
By Raf Simons, Jil Sander
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Jil Sander wool dress with pleated shoulder. lined in silk. side zipper and slit at the back. Bust: 34"/ Waist: 28"/ Hip: 34"/ Length: 55
Miu Miu by Miuccia Prada green wool fleece slip dress with crystals, ss 1998
By Miu Miu, Prada
Located in London, GB
▪ Miu Miu wool fleece slip dress ▪ Designed by Miuccia Prada ▪ Allover flat-back crystals ▪ Lace-up ties to the front opening ▪ Loose fit ▪ Fully line...
Gucci by Tom Ford bottle green pintuck leather shift dress, fw 1999
By Tom Ford for Gucci, Gucci
Located in London, GB
▪ Gucci bottle green leather shift dress ▪ Designed by Tom Ford ▪ Pintuck detail ▪ Three-quarter circular flounce sleeves ▪ Black leather rosette on sle...
Azzedine Alaia black knitted bodycon dress with red ribbon graphic, fw 1992
By Azzedine Alaïa
Located in London, GB
▪ Azzedine Alaia black rayon knitted bodycon dress ▪ Red ribbon and bow graphic ▪ Centre back leg slit with concealed zipper ▪ Long sleeves ▪ Calf length ▪ Size Medium ▪ Fall-Win...
Comme des Garçons 'Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body' dress, ss 1997
By Comme des Garçons
Located in London, GB
▪ Comme des Garçons 'Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body' dress ▪ Designed by Rei Kawakubo ▪ Museum piece ▪ Two-tone purple and green polyester organz...
Vivienne Westwood striped open knit dress with tubular scarf, ss 2005
By Vivienne Westwood
Located in London, GB
▪ Vivienne Westwood striped knitted dress ▪ Rib-knit skirt and collar ▪ Open-knit tubular scarf attached at the breasts ▪ Extra-long collar which doubles as a hood ▪ Can be styl...
Gucci by Tom Ford suede lace-up maxi dress with 'G' belt, ss 1996
By Tom Ford for Gucci, Gucci
Located in London, GB
▪ Gucci suede lace-up maxi dress and belt ▪ Designed by Tom Ford ▪ Deep v-neck with leather lace up fastening ▪ Large cape collar with natural edge ▪ Bishop sleeves with ruffled ...
