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Bulgari Contemporary Diamond Emerald Parure Suite

About the Item

It was 1963 in Italy on the set of Cleopatra when Richard Burton famously said, “I introduced Liz to beer, she introduced me to Bulgari,” referring to the film’s iconic star, Elizabeth Taylor. It was even rumored that Ms. Taylor had requested the Italian jewelry house to wait around the set with their latest collection, so she could go shopping in between takes. Founded in 1884 in Rome, Bulgari is known for voluminous forms, signature sunny shades of yellow gold, and vibrantly colored gemstones composed in curvaceous patterns. In the 1920s, however, their high jewelry creations reflected the design of traditional French Maisons, incorporating platinum and diamonds with stylized Art Deco design. This suite, made in Italy during the Contemporary Era, is reminiscent of the geometry of Bulgari’s early style brought into the modern age, with juicy floral patterns featuring a bounty of emeralds - inviting abundance, love, and good fortune to the wearer. Flowers have long been a favorite with the jewelry house, beginning with its en tremblant brooches, created in the 1950s and 1960s as well as with the Fiorever collection today, which draws inspiration from the four-petal flower venerated by the Romans as a symbol of happiness. This exquisite diamond and emerald parure suite is comprised of six related yet distinctive pieces - including necklace, bracelet, pair of earrings, large pin, and small pin. Each piece is a variation on a theme of concentric circles dotted with diamonds and variously decorated with five-petal emerald flowers. In its entirety, the parure suite evokes the renaissance of Spring, when fresh blooms are blown by gentle breezes. The necklace is the spettacolo or showstopper piece comprised of diamond-studded double circles, alternately decorated with emerald flowers and large diamonds, culminating in a large pendant with three emerald flowers and three large diamonds. The estimated weight of emeralds is 8.98 carats and diamonds 1.21 carats. The inner circles seem to float; however, they are cleverly fixed in place with large diamonds or emerald flowers. The necklace is 20" long, pendant is additionally 2" long, with a total gram weight of approx. 90.64 grams. The bracelet is the only piece of the suite that breaks the pattern: instead of double circles, diamond studded single circles alternate with six emerald flowers. The estimated weight of emeralds for the 8-inch (20.32 cm) bracelet is 18.99 carats and diamonds 4.51 carats, with a total gram weight of approx. 49.47 grams. The earrings feature diamond-studded double circles overlapped by two lovely emerald flowers and diamonds with an estimated carat weight of 5.94 carats. The earrings are clip back but can be enhanced to a post option for pierced ears. Measures approx. 1" x 0.8" (2.54 x 2 cm), with a total gram weight of approx. 23.06gr. Stamped 750; Made in Italy. The smaller of two pins is made with a double pinstem and exactly mirrors the pendant of the necklace, featuring three equidistant large diamonds and emerald flowers. 1.5" in diameter. The larger of two pins (2" in diameter) is made with a single long stick pin ideal for a hat, and features a delightful constellation of large and small emeralds peppered with diamonds, both pins totaling estimated weight 8.32 carats of emeralds and 1.2 carats diamonds. Approximate total gemstone weight in this 5-piece suite is 46 to 48 carats of emeralds, and 12 to 14 carats of diamonds; 208.77 grams overall weight; signed Bvlgari, stamped 750 and Made in Italy; circa 2000s.
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