Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Emerald, 18k Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Diamond, 14k Gold
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Signet Rings
14k Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Signet Rings
18k Gold
1960s Turkish Vintage Art Nouveau Signet Rings
14k Gold, 22k Gold
1950s Turkish Vintage Art Nouveau Signet Rings
14k Gold, 22k Gold, Rose Gold
Early 1900s Swedish Antique Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Carnelian, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Signet Rings
14k Gold
1920s English Vintage Art Nouveau Signet Rings
14k Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Lapis Lazuli, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Diamond, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1910s Swedish Vintage Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Carnelian, 18k Gold
Early 1900s Swedish Antique Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Carnelian, 22k Gold
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Signet Rings
18k Gold
1890s American Antique Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Star Sapphire, Platinum
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Lapis Lazuli, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Emerald, Gold, 14k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Jade, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1920s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
1910s American Vintage Art Nouveau Signet Rings
14k Gold
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Diamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Diamond, White Diamond, Yellow Diamond, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s British Antique Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Tourmaline, Quartz, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Signet Rings
White Diamond, Ruby, Pink Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
2010s American Art Nouveau Signet Rings
White Diamond, Ruby, Pink Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
2010s American Art Nouveau Signet Rings
White Diamond, Ruby, Pink Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
2010s American Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Pink Sapphire, Ruby, White Diamond, Sterling Silver, Silver
20th Century French Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Diamond, Yellow Gold, White Gold, 18k Gold
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Diamond, Yellow Diamond, 18k Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Pink Sapphire, Ruby, White Diamond, Sterling Silver, Silver
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Diamond, White Diamond, Yellow Diamond, Pink Diamond, 18k Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Signet Rings
Pink Sapphire, Ruby, White Diamond, Sterling Silver, Silver
