When conversations turn to the best of the best fine jewelry, Van Cleef & Arpels will likely come up — it has held a prominent place in the pantheon of important French jewelers for generations. Founded in 1906, it began its ascent to greatness on the famed Place Vendôme, in Paris, where it continues to have a presence alongside Boucheron, Chaumet, Mauboussin and many other heritage French jewelers. It has become a beloved global brand, with legions of devotees in countries across Europe, the U.S. and Asia.
Whether purchased new from one of its many boutiques or sourced through an auction house or another resale channel, Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry is perennially in demand, instantly recognizable and, consequently, often copied. More on how to spot a fake Van Cleef & Arpels necklace ahead.
What Is Van Cleef & Arpels Known For?
Over the years, Van Cleef & Arpels has become known for technical ingenuity, exemplified by its convertible mechanisms and its Mystery Set rubies, sapphires and emeralds. In terms of aesthetics, the house favors fanciful motifs like fairies and flowers and often nods in its newly minted creations to its Art Deco heyday, as well as later decades when its jewelry was favored by screen queens like Elizabeth Taylor and the era’s “society swans.”
Many Van Cleef & Arpels collections have become enduring classics. Looking at its necklaces alone, we can point to the Alhambra line, with its iconic four-leaf clover motif; the Zodiac medallions; and butterfly and Frivole blossom pendants. Among vintage options, Van Cleef & Arpels connoisseurs particularly covet the house’s Passe-Partout tubogas and Zip necklaces.
Who Can Authenticate a Van Cleef & Arpels Necklace?
One way to ensure you’re getting an authentic Van Cleef & Arpels necklace is to buy from a reputable seller — get referrals, read reviews and trust your gut.
Also exercise caution if you are shopping for vintage Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces online, at an antiques show or in the estate case at a jewelry store. In these scenarios, you might want to seek out an objective third-party expert for a seal of approval. Consult a knowledgeable local jeweler you trust and shop with regularly or an auction house specialist/appraiser. Reputable sellers generally guarantee the authenticity of their inventory, but always check the terms of the return policy to see if you’re entitled to a refund if the item is found to be a replica.
How Can I Verify the Authenticity of a Van Cleef & Arpels Necklace?


Can you authenticate a Van Cleef & Arpels necklace on your own? Before you give it a try, make sure you have a jeweler’s loupe, which magnifies details that are too small to see with the naked eye. You’ll use it to inspect the piece for authenticity markers. (If you’re buying online, ask for enlarged pictures.) It should be noted that copies now have very similar signature, font and numbers, so even an expert might have trouble telling a real from a fake, but here’s what you should check.
Materials: It should be stamped 750 or Au750, indicating that the metal is 18-karat gold — 75 percent gold and 25 percent alloy — or Pt, for platinum.
Hallmarks: A genuine Van Cleef & Arpels necklace will be stamped with a “Van Cleef & Arpels” or “VCA” signature. No variations. The text should be legible and clean.
Serial numbers: Each Van Cleef & Arpels piece is marked with a serial number. Look for it on or near the clasp.
Documents: If the Van Cleef & Arpels necklace is contemporary but pre-owned, the seller might be able to provide a certificate of authenticity (which would have accompanied the original sale). Check that the serial number on the certificate aligns with the number on the necklace. Older pieces won’t necessarily have certificates of authenticity, so ask for receipts, paperwork or packaging that can help verify the seller’s claims. Also, any piece of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry can be submitted for a letter of authentication, both buyers and dealers are encouraged to do so. This process is a bit costly, but it’s the only way to assure you have an original piece of jewelry.
Purchasing a genuine Van Cleef & Arpels necklace, whether new or vintage, is an investment. Its price reflects the legacy and prestige of the design house, the value of the precious metals and gems used to create it and the superior quality of the craftsmanship. In other words, it’s an object of tremendous value whether you spend $5,000 or $50,000.
You should definitely take your time when making such a significant purchase. Don’t feel pressured to decide on the spot. It’s not uncommon for collectors to consult sellers or other professionals to get their opinions before buying. For a necklace you truly love but have some doubts about, such extra steps are well worth the time, if they give you peace of mind.
What Is the Most Popular Van Cleef & Arpels Necklace?
The popularity prize definitely goes to some iteration of the Alhambra line, which debuted in 1968. A stylized spin on a four-leaf clover, the motif began as a chic good luck charm and has since transformed into a Van Cleef & Arpels icon — and the ultimate status symbol. Reminiscent of the quatrefoil seen in traditional Islamic architecture, the design is said to be named for the Alhambra Palace, in Granada, Spain. Since the 1970s, Van Cleef & Arpels has introduced versions set with malachite, lapis lazuli, coral, tiger’s eye and turquoise. Today, the motif is found in blue agate, carnelian, mother-of-pearl and onyx.
The Alhambra collection was always intended to be suitable for everyday, produced in large numbers compared to one-of-a-kind-high jewelry pieces. On some level, it changed the perception of what fine jewelry should look like and how it should be worn. Not surprisingly, quite a few women (and men) were instantly enchanted with this idea — yet another reason why Alhambra necklaces remain a jewelry wardrobe essential to this day.
How Can I Tell If an Alhambra Necklace Is Real or Fake?


Because of its popularity, demand for Alhambra necklaces is robust. This has led to a large number of fakes entering the market, a number of which imitate the real thing quite well. But you’ll be able to tell pretty quickly if an Alhambra necklace you’re considering is authentic or a dupe by using the guidelines noted above while also laser focusing on the following.
The chain: When you look at the chain under a loupe, you will notice that each link has a pointy end and a rounded end. The pointy end will have a solder mark, indicating that the link was fabricated by hand. Counterfeit Alhambra chains will not have the solder mark because the links are machine-made.
The beads: The edges of an authentic Alhambra clover are bordered in gold beads that exhibit clean craftsmanship, versus the sometimes sloppy metalwork of a fake. The number of beads will be consistent across Alhambra pieces from the same collection. If you spot any inconsistencies, it’s a sign that the necklace is fake.
The prongs: In an authentic Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra necklace, each clover is mounted by hand, with four rounded prongs on one side and four slightly elongated ones on the other. The prongs on counterfeit pieces tend to be identical.
Stones: Make sure the colored elements in the clover are genuine stone inlay and not glass or enamel. Beyond that, some Alhambra stone inlay options aren’t being produced anymore because of supply issues; turquoise, for example, has been replaced by blue agate. So, if someone tries to sell you a newly minted “turquoise” Alhambra necklace, you can safely assume it’s fake.