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Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Diamond Vintage Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
An exquisite Van Cleef & Arpels black onyx and gold bracelet, featuring diamonds; circa 1970s. The
Category

Vintage 1970s French Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Black Onyx Hexagonal Ear Clips
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
18K Yellow Gold, Diamond, and Black Onyx Detachable Hexagonal Ear Clips. Approximate Length - 2.5
Category

Vintage 1970s Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx Alhambra Brooch
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
Here we have a chic and stylish brooch from the world renowned luxury jewellery house of Van Cleef
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Black Onyx Yellow Gold Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
This magnificent Van Cleef & Arpels ring is crafted in 18k yellow gold and set with black onyx and
Category

Vintage 1980s French More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Diamond Navette Shaped Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Bethesda, MD
This highly collectable vintage diamond and black onyx navette shape boast twenty brilliant
Category

Vintage 1960s French Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Black Diamond and Onyx Band Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Bethesda, MD
♦ Designer / Hallmarks: Van Cleef & Arpels ♦ Metal:  18 karat ♦ Gem stone: 20 Diamonds = .60 carats
Category

Vintage 1970s French Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Philippine Ring in Black Onyx and Diamonds
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 18k yellow gold with black onyx and round brilliant cut diamonds weighing
Category

Vintage 1980s Unknown More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Black Onyx Textured Yellow Gold Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
This stunning retro Van Cleef & Arpels ring is crafted in 18k textured yellow gold and beautifully
Category

Vintage 1960s French More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Black Onyx Yellow Gold Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Banbury, GB
/ $ 4,050 Excl taxes Model ARA44200 Serial Number JE****** Metal 18k Yellow Gold Stones Onyx Weight approx
Category

2010s French Stud Earrings

Materials

Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 18K/Black Onyx 10 Motifs Vintage Alhambra Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels 18K/Black Onyx 10 Motifs Vintage Alhambra Necklace Made In: France Year or
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Chain Necklaces

Materials

Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Black Onyx Earrings 18k Gold VCARA44200
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in San Diego, CA
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Black Onyx Earrings Style: Clip On With Post for Pierce Ears
Category

2010s Stud Earrings

Materials

Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx and Diamond Link Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx and Diamond Link Bracelet This sophisticated Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet
Category

20th Century French Retro Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx and White Diamonds Dome Ring, 18K
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
A bold and beautiful Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx and White Diamonds Dome Cocktail Ring made in 18
Category

20th Century Dome Rings

Materials

White Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx, Diamond, and Gold Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx, Diamond, and Gold Necklace An extraordinary Van Cleef & Arpels necklace
Category

Vintage 1970s French Retro Chain Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Coral and Onyx Pendant Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Coral and Onyx Pendant Necklace A pendant necklace by Van Cleef and Arpels
Category

Vintage 1970s French Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Coral, Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx 18k Gold Dog Brooch
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York City, NY
Fine and rare brooch by Van Cleef and Arpels, of French origin and circa late 20th Century. This
Category

Late 20th Century Brooches

Materials

Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx 18k Gold Dog Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx 18k Gold Dog Brooch
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W 0.63 in L 0.75 in
Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx Ring Diamond Papillon Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A feminine Van Cleef & Arpels onyx ring, made of 18k gold, featuring diamonds. This VCA butterfly
Category

Late 20th Century French Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Black Onyx and Diamond 5 Motif Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Miami, FL
Designer: Van Cleef & Arpels Collection: Vintage Alhambra Style: 5 Motifs Bracelet Material: White
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, White Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Black Onyx Diamond Ring 18k Gold VCARA41000
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in San Diego, CA
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Black Onyx Ring Style: Bezel Set Ref. number: JAO***** Metal
Category

2010s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold

Rare Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Pear Cabochon 18k Yellow Gold Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Birmingham, GB
Rare Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Pear Cut 18k Yellow Gold Solitaire Ring. A stunning
Category

20th Century French Solitaire Rings

Materials

Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra 20 Motifs Black Onyx Necklace Box Papers COA
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in San Diego, CA
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Vintage Alhambra 20 Motifs Necklace Style: Necklace Ref. number: VCARA43100
Category

2010s Rope Necklaces

Materials

Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Double Headed Swan Ring In Black Onyx With Diamonds Emeralds
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
A whimsical double headed swan ring by Van Cleef & Arpels c.1970s, the bypass style ring in 18ct
Category

Late 20th Century French Cocktail Rings

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Black Onyx 10 Motif 18K Yellow Gold Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Banbury, GB
/ $8,900 Excl. Taxes Model VCARA42700 Serial Number JF****** Metal 18k Yellow Gold Stones Onyx Weight
Category

2010s French Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra 5 Motif Black Onyx 18K Yellow Gold Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Banbury, GB
. Taxes / $4,600 Excl. Taxes Model VCARA41300 Serial Number JE******* Metal 18k Yellow Gold Stones Onyx
Category

2010s French Chain Bracelets

Materials

Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Onyx Checkerboard ring made in France
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Van Cleef and Arpels circa 1960s diamond & black onyx checkerboard drawbridge shaped cocktail ring
Category

Late 20th Century French Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 18K Gold Onyx Chrysoprase and Diamond Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
This exquisite vintage ring by Van Cleef & Arpels is a stunning example of the brand's timeless
Category

Vintage 1980s French Band Rings

Materials

Chrysophrase, Diamond, Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Cosmos Onyx Diamond Medium Model Ring. Sz 51
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
This gorgeous Van Cleef & Arpels ring from the enchanting Cosmos collection features a flower
Category

2010s Dome Rings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, White Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond, Onyx, and White Gold 'Cosmos' Clip Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond, Onyx, and White Gold 'Cosmos' Clip Earrings These earrings have flowers
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Artist Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, White Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Turquoise, Onyx, Diamond & Gold Bracelet Circa 1965
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
A vintage turquoise, onyx & yellow gold bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1965. This bracelet
Category

Mid-20th Century French Beaded Bracelets

Materials

White Diamond, Onyx, Turquoise, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra 5 Motif Black Onyx Bracelet, Service Paper
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Miami, FL
Designer: Van Cleef & Arpels Collection: Vintage Alhambra Style: 5 Motifs Bracelet Material: White
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Link Bracelets

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx Pendant Necklace in 18ct Yellow Gold
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
A vintage Van Cleef & Arpels onyx disk pendant necklace in 18-karat yellow gold, circa 1970. The
Category

20th Century British Drop Necklaces

Materials

Onyx, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 1970 Geometric Ring In 18Kt Gold With Diamonds And Black Onyx
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Miami, FL
Gem set onyx ring designed by Van Cleef & Arpels. Beautiful vintage ring, made in Paris France by
Category

Vintage 1970s French Modernist Band Rings

Materials

Onyx, White Diamond, Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx Alhambra pendant W/Box & Papers
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Great Neck Plaza, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Clover Pendant Necklace. This stunning necklace is expertly crafted
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold

Van Cleef Arpels Diamond Yellow Gold Vintage 0.52ct Diamond & Onyx Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
This exquisite vintage Van Cleef & Arpels ring showcases a striking V-shaped design, seamlessly
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Deco Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 20 Motif Vintage Alhambra Diamond & Onyx White Gold Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Holland, PA
18k White Gold Alhambra 20 Motifs Diamond And Black Onyx Necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels. This
Category

2010s French Link Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, White Gold

18K White Gold Van Cleef&Arpels Alhambra bracelet with onyx and diamonds
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in București, București
The Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra bracelet, featuring onyx and diamonds, is a masterpiece of elegance
Category

2010s Romanian Modern Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, White Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Turquoise, Onyx and 18ct Yellow Gold Necklace Ca1965
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
A vintage turquoise, onyx & yellow gold necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1965. This necklace
Category

Mid-20th Century French Beaded Necklaces

Materials

Onyx, Turquoise, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra 5-Motif Onyx 18 Karat Yellow Gold Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Mount Kisco, NY
By Van Cleef and Arpels, enjoy procuring this iconic Alhambra 5 Motif Onyx 18 Karat Yellow Gold
Category

2010s French Charm Bracelets

Materials

Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx Diamond 18k Yellow Gold Ribbon Pendant Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Birmingham, GB
Rare Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx And Diamond 18k Yellow Gold Ribbon Bow Pendant Necklace. A
Category

20th Century French Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Large Diamond Onyx 18k Yellow Gold Panther Clip Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Simpsonville, SC
Introducing the Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Onyx 18k Gold Earrings—a stunning embodiment of
Category

Vintage 1970s Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Diamond, Turquoise and Onyx Dress Ring, circa 1990s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
A stylish diamond, onyx and turquoise dress ring by Van Cleef & Arpels c.1990s, the ring of rounded
Category

1990s French Dome Rings

Materials

White Diamond, Onyx, Turquoise, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Onyx 18 Karat Gold Cufflinks
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Crafted in 18 karat gold featuring 24 round brilliant cut diamonds and black onyx. Weight 12.4 gr
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Cufflinks

Van Cleef & Arpels Lucky Animals Lion Onyx Tiger Eye Yellow Gold Clip Brooch
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Holland, PA
18k Yellow Gold Black Onyx Tiger Eye Lion Lucky Animals Lion Brooch Pin by Van Cleef & Arpels. The
Category

20th Century French Brooches

Materials

Onyx, Tiger's Eye, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 18K Yellow Gold Diamond, Coral, Onyx Ring Size 6.25 #19219
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels 18K Yellow Gold Diamond, Coral, & Black Onyx Ring Size 6.25 This
Category

20th Century Modern Cluster Rings

Materials

Coral, Diamond, Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 1973 Geometric Onyx Ring 18kt Gold with 1.45ctw in Diamonds
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Miami, FL
Gem set onyx ring designed by Van Cleef & Arpels. Beautiful vintage ring band, made in Paris
Category

Vintage 1970s French Modernist Band Rings

Materials

Onyx, White Diamond, Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Bouton D'or Ring 18k Yellow Gold Chrysoprase Diamond Onyx BNP
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Tustin, CA
We are pleased to offer this beautiful Guaranteed Authentic Van Cleef & Arpels Bouton D'or Ring
Category

2010s French Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Rare Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx And Diamond 18k Yellow Gold Ribbon Bow Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Birmingham, GB
Rare Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx And Diamond 18k Yellow Gold Ribbon Bow Ring. A stunning ring
Category

20th Century French Fashion Rings

Materials

Onyx, White Diamond, Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels "Miroir Des Eaux" Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels 'Miroir Des Eaux' Multi- gem and Diamond Necklace. This necklace has rectangular
Category

Late 20th Century French Artist Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Secret de Cassis Amethyst Necklace & Ear Clips
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
. Approximate Necklace Length - 20.87" Ear Clips 1.14" French Assay Marks Signed - Van Cleef & Arpels
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Drop Earrings

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, Onyx, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS 1970 Modernist Bracelet 18Kt Gold With 24.30 Ctw Diamonds
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Miami, FL
Bracelet designed by Van Cleef & Arpels. This is a fantastic bracelet, created in Paris France by
Category

Vintage 1970s French Modernist Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Miroir Des Eaux Diamond Mother of Pearl White Gold Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Holland, PA
18k White Gold Onyx Mother Of Pearl Diamond Miroir des Eaux Flower Pendant Necklace by Van Cleef
Category

20th Century French Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Pearl, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Mother of Pearl Door Knocker Yellow Gold Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Holland, PA
18k Yellow Gold Vintage Diamond And Black Onyx Door Knocker Earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels. With
Category

Vintage 1980s French Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Yellow Gold

VCA Bouton D'or Pendant Detachable Clip Necklace 18k Chrysoprase Diamond Onyx
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Tustin, CA
We are pleased to offer this beautiful Guaranteed Authentic Van Cleef & Arpels Bouton D'or Pendant
Category

2010s French Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Black Onyx Gold Bead Bracelet 18k French Retro Jewelry
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Alhambra by Van Cleef & Arpels are great examples of black onyx’s application.
Category

Vintage 1950s French Retro Retro Bracelets

Materials

Onyx, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Platinum

Onyx Gold Bead Brooch 18k Retro Jewelry Signed OSL
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
collections as Perlée and Alhambra by Van Cleef & Arpels are great examples of black onyx’s application.
Category

Vintage 1950s Unknown Retro Brooches

Materials

Onyx, Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Vintage Tiffany & Co. Coral Onyx Earrings Diamond Gold Estate Jewelry
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
as Perlée and Alhambra by Van Cleef & Arpels are great examples of onyx’s application.
Category

Vintage 1980s American Stud Earrings

Materials

Coral, Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, White Gold

Andre Vassort 1960 France 18Kt Cocktail Ring with 1.02 Ct Diamonds Coral & Onyx
By Andre Vassort
Located in Miami, FL
from black onyx. Accented with two curved lines, set with a French pave of 48 round brilliants cuts
Category

Vintage 1960s French Post-War Cocktail Rings

Materials

Onyx, Diamond, Coral, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Onyx Gold Cufflinks
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Lambertville, NJ
Pair of 18k yellow gold cufflinks, crafted by Van Cleef & Arpels, set with black onyx. Cufflink top
Category

20th Century French Cufflinks

Materials

Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Magic Alhambra Gold Pendant Charm
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Miami, FL
Designer: Van Cleef & Arpels Collection: Magic Alhambra Metal: Yellow Gold Metal Purity: 18k Stones
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage 18k Diamond and Onyx Pin
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Wilmington, DE
Van Cleef & Arpels 18kt Diamond and Onyx Alhambra Pin This Pin is an example of the rich yet
Category

Vintage 1980s European Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage 18k Diamond and Onyx Pin
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage 18k Diamond and Onyx Pin
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H 1.5 in W 2 in D 0.5 in
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Van Cleef Black Onyx For Sale on 1stDibs

Find the exact van cleef black onyx you’re shopping for in the variety available on 1stDibs. Frequently made of Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold, this item was constructed with great care. In our selection of items, you can find a vintage example as well as a contemporary version. If you’re looking for a van cleef black onyx from a specific time period, our collection is diverse and broad-ranging, and you’ll find at least one that dates back to the 20th Century while another version may have been produced as recently as the 21st Century. As it relates to this specific piece, our collection includes designs that are universally popular, but .5 Carat and 1 Carat carat weights, specifically, are sought with frequency. Today, if you’re looking for a round cut version of this piece and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes uncut and brilliant cut alternatives. There aren’t many items for men if you’re seeking a van cleef black onyx, as most of the options available are for women and unisex.

How Much is a Van Cleef Black Onyx?

The price for a van cleef black onyx starts at $1,900 and tops out at $135,000 with these rings, on average, selling for $6,399.

Van Cleef & Arpels for sale on 1stDibs

One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.

The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpels. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)

Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.

But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.

Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.

Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

Questions About Van Cleef & Arpels
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Van Cleef & Arpels is so expensive because it is a well-known company that has a fantastic reputation. Van Cleef & Arpels are universally renowned for high quality jewelry with a focus on detail. High-profile fans of the French jewelry house over the years have included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor and many more. Find an extraordinary range of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.