“Soft and cuddly” are likely not the first attributes that come to mind when thinking of an Hermès handbag. Take the structured Kelly bag. Introduced in 1935 as the Sac à dépêches (and renamed after Grace Kelly in 1977), it is an enduring symbol of elegance and sophistication. Typically crafted from calfskin leather or, in rarer examples, exotic hides like lizard, alligator or crocodile, the Kelly is revered for its clean lines and expert craftsmanship.
Then, Jean-Paul Gaultier came along and shook things up with the suede-and-shearling Hermès Teddy Kelly. A bold step outside the orange box, the design was introduced in a 35cm version as part of Hermès’s Fall/Winter 2005 collection, when Gaultier, one of fashion’s most famed enfants terribles, was in charge of the house’s creative direction.
“Who else but Gaultier would have dared Hermès to make a shearling bag?” says Debra Kent, of mightychic, who is offering this 2022 gray 20cm Teddy Kelly on 1stDibs.
Although instantly recognizable as a Kelly, the Teddy, formally known as the Kelly pluche, is rather unusual. The fluffy shearling trim that wraps around the bag’s edges and top handles endows its sleek form — fabricated in this case from rich pebble-gray Grizzly suede with coordinating Swift leather accents and palladium hardware — with a dose of whimsy.
“For me, the Teddy is up there with the Kellywood,” says Kent, referring to a rare release from 2020 made from bog oak with intricate metal inlay, which she also offers on 1stDibs. “It proves that the Kelly can be made out of anything and still retain its timeless silhouette and status.”
The design belongs in the upper echelon of Hermès creations — limited editions crafted in such small numbers that, if and when they become available, they are offered only to the brand’s most important clients. Even the packaging of these items is exclusive: Colloquially known as “blue box” bags, they are housed in special orange presentation boxes with a special navy-blue lining.
But the Teddy wasn’t designed for display alone. “It’s meant to be worn,” says Kent. And its playfulness doesn’t make the style less versatile than other Kelly bags. “It only makes it better!” she insists. “It’s perfect for a wintry après-ski, of course, but I also see visions of this bag worn with jeans and a crisp white shirt or a backless black gown. It’s like a fabulous piece of jewelry — it goes with anything.”
The Teddy Kelly is a cheeky testament to the strength of Hermès’s timeless design and superior craftsmanship. Collectors of the brand often say they’re in search of their “unicorn,” that elusive piece that takes time and dedication to track down. For the buyer seeking a special bag that’s as clever as it is chic, this huggable Teddy bear is a singular prize.
