When Elle Fanning swept onto the red carpet at the Golden Globes in January, her custom Balmain gown sparked lively “best dressed” debates across the Internet. Fashion-history buffs, though, knew one thing for certain — the dress was not of our time. It was, in fact, a re-creation of a 1953 design by Pierre Balmain, one of the leading figures of the mid-20th-century golden age of haute couture. Which raises the question: What happened to the original? Archival items of this caliber are often held in museums or private collections, and many examples from the period have been damaged beyond repair or lost to the passing of time. This exquisite 1955 Pierre Balmain ballgown is a beautiful surviving exception.
Sporting its original interior label bearing the handwritten words (in French) “33: White satin dress with floral embroidery,” the garment is a remarkable relic of its time. “Graceful, intricate and deeply glamorous, it’s a quintessential representation of the drama and craftsmanship of mid-century haute couture,” says Sophia Koegl, of REALMS Vintage, who is offering it on 1stDibs.
With a corseted bodice and nipped waist, the gown is made of luminous cream silk and satin, intricately embroidered with silver sequins, pearls and glass beads that meander down the full skirt to striking effect. “It’s like falling leaves glistening in soft light,” says Koegl. “The embellishments are applied at specific angles to catch the light and give the illusion of movement.”
Given the precision required by this technique, the embroidery can likely be attributed to the legendary Maison Lesage, whose skill in the craft was unrivaled at the time and remains formidable today. The house (now owned by Chanel) collaborated with Balmain and other 20th-century couturiers, including Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Elsa Schiaparelli. Balmain advertisements of the period show similar ballgowns with decorative Lesage needlework.
Mid-20th-century fashion has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity of late. Carey Mulligan and Natalie Portman made headlines in recent years wearing re-creations of 1950s designs by Balenciaga and Christian Dior, respectively. At the January Globes, Zendaya paid tribute to Joyce Bryant in a sensational Louis Vuitton gown seemingly inspired by one designer Zelda Wynn Valdes created in the mid-1950s for the American singer and activist. Ariana Grande went with an original for the occasion, a 1966 dress by Hubert de Givenchy with a distinct vintage allure. Such surviving garments by the great 20th-century designers are sought-after pulls for red-carpet stylists, but they are difficult to source and can be tricky to wear (let us not forget Kim Kardashian’s ill-fated outing in Marilyn Monroe’s 1962 Jean Louis dress at the 2022 Met Gala).
The Met Costume Institute’s 2024 exhibition, titled “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion,” centered on a handful of vintage and antique garments that over time have become too fragile to be worn even by a mannequin, instead displaying these “sleeping beauties” lying serenely under glass. The show illuminated the rarity and delicacy of archival couture, underlining the importance of conservation and careful stewardship. Luckily, this 1955 Balmain gown is in remarkable condition for its age and is ready for a glamorous outing, with enough sparkling detail to light up a red carpet and a hue that would make for a unique vintage bridal moment. Unlike so many of its peers, this rare beauty is wide awake.
