Few names spark a fire in the hearts of Y2K-era fashion connoisseurs quite like Tom Ford. As creative director for Gucci from 1994 to 2004, the designer resuscitated the house, infusing it with vitality, sex appeal — and much-needed profits. So, when the Gucci group acquired Yves Saint Laurent, in 1999, who else would they put at the helm but their star talent, Ford?
While Tom Ford for Gucci items are now highly sought after on the vintage market, discerning collectors recognize that Ford’s tenure at YSL produced its own treasures. A prime example is this handkerchief dress from the Rive Gauche collection’s Spring/Summer 2004 runway, which oozes the sleek seductiveness that became synonymous with Ford.
“This dress marks the end of an era,” says Alex Cohen, of TheRealList, who is offering the garment on 1stDibs. “It’s from Ford’s penultimate collection for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche and still has the original YSL store tags, so it’s a prized acquisition for those interested in fashion history and Ford’s influential work.”
As if made of liquid silver, the bias-cut sheath drapes over the body to meet a bright yellow satin handkerchief-style hem. The bodice floats atop the dress’s skirt, adding a depth and dimension to create a slightly more structured silhouette than that of the typical slip dress in vogue at the time. The velvet band forming the neckline and straps could be easily overlooked but is a considered detail that Ford surely knew would be appreciated by the dress’s wearer.
With its slinky, figure-hugging form and vibrant pop of color, this dress is the epitome of early 2000s red-carpet style. Many of the era’s biggest celebrities, including Gwyneth Paltrow, Jennifer Aniston, Halle Berry and Sarah Jessica Parker, were among Ford’s early patrons, and it’s not difficult to see why they were drawn to his aesthetic.
“Ford’s tenure at YSL was characterized by his ability to blend modern sensuality with classic elegance,” explains Cohen. “This dress exemplifies his talent for referencing historical styles while making them relevant to modern audiences through his penchant for strong, confident femininity.”
This lustrous dress embodies the sexy sophistication of its era with an effortless je ne sais quoi that clothing brands today are still trying to emulate 20 years later. Tom Ford’s flair for reviving vintage styles with bracing modernity defined the visual landscape of the early 2000s and earned him near-mythic status in the fashion industry. A pristine item from his legendary tenure is a rarity that any Ford collector is sure to appreciate.
