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Jocelyn Burton

Jocelyn Burton Seashell and Moonstone Encrusted Sterling Silver Box
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A very fine cylindrical sterling silver box by Jocelyn Burton. The box's lid is richly encrusted
Category

Vintage 1970s British Modern Boxes and Cases

Materials

Moonstone, Sterling Silver

Set of 12 Jocelyn Burton English Sterling Silver Nautilus Dinner Service Plates
Located in Philadelphia, PA
An extremely fine set of 12 service plates or chargers. By Jocelyn Burton in sterling silver
Category

Late 20th Century British Modern Silver Chargers and Plates

Materials

Sterling Silver, Gilt Metal

Jocelyn Burton Sterling Silver Sea Shell Encrusted Tazza or Compote
Located in Philadelphia, PA
An incredible sterling silver tazza by Jocelyn Burton. With a seashell and sea-life encrusted
Category

20th Century British Modern Centerpieces and Tazzas

Materials

Sterling Silver

Jocelyn Burton Sterling Silver Tapered Tumbler or Mug with Cowrie Shell
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A wonderful tumbler or cup by Jocelyn Burton. In sterling silver with an applied figural cowrie
Category

20th Century British Modern Barware

Materials

Sterling Silver

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Located in Chicago, IL
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Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture brown suede and fur cocoon coat, fw 1983
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Located in Miami, FL
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Located in Philadelphia, PA
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Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
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A Close Look at Modern Jewelry

Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.

Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”

A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.

Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.

Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.