Fusing eclectic influences such as Surrealism and African art, Art Smith was a leading mid-century modernist jeweler and one of the few African American designers to break into the field. His oversize geometric pieces with their innovative use of wire, silver forms, brass, aluminum, stone and glass elements were boldly sculptural yet lightweight, becoming popular in the 1940s and ’50s as expressive statements of adornment.
Born in Cuba to Jamaican parents, Smith moved as a child to Brooklyn, New York, in 1920. After showing an early aptitude for art, he earned a scholarship to study at the Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art in Manhattan. He was especially inspired by the pioneering African American jeweler Winifred Mason, who hired Smith to work at her studio. There he witnessed how she engaged with West Indian folk art through bronze and copper.
After graduating, Smith opened his first shop in 1946 on Cornelia Street in Greenwich Village. Facing discrimination in the predominantly Italian area, he relocated to West Fourth Street where he would work until 1979. Smith developed relationships with stores like Bloomingdale’s as well as New York City’s vibrant Black cultural scene, from which his clients included Lena Horne and Duke Ellington. He also designed work for avant-garde Black dance companies such as those led by choreographers Talley Beatty and Pearl Primus and a brooch for Eleanor Roosevelt.
“The body is a component in design just as air and space are,” Smith once stated. Employing biomorphic shapes, he created works such as the Patina necklace that referenced Alexander Calder’s mobiles with its dangling silver cutouts as well as the Lava bracelet involving two layers of metal that undulate around the wrist.
Smith often used unconventional materials for fine jewelry that made it affordable to people beyond the elite, and he was a vocal advocate for Black and gay civil rights. In 2008, the Brooklyn Museum opened a retrospective of his work. His jewelry is included in the collections of major museums such as the National Museum of African American History and Culture, the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.
Find a collection of Art Smith jewelry on 1stDibs.
Art Smith Brass and Copper Brooch, c. 1950
By Art Smith
Located in New York, NY
Art Smith created this sculptural modernist copper and brass brooch in the 1950s. It represents a refined expression of mid-century modernist design, shaped in a bold, yin-yang-inspi...
Brass, Copper
Carved wood and engraved brass 'moth' brooch, France, 1950s
Located in Greyabbey, County Down
A stunning 'moth' brooch, very simple, sculpted and architectural in its design. The brass wings and ears are all one piece and engraved, the wood body, ca...
Brass
$580
H 1.19 in W 1.86 in
Czechoslovakian Gilt Brass and Purple Crystal Intricate Butterfly Brooch, Pin
Located in Milford, DE
An exquisitely detailed vintage butterfly brooch. Features intricately detailed wings and body accented with enameled flowers and amethyst-c...
Crystal, Brass
$7,410 / set
Art Deco Diamond Brooch 1950S
Located in Geneva, CH
Art Deco Diamond White Gold and Platinum Brooch. Circa 1950. Total weight: 15.69 grams. Dimensions: approx. 4.70 centimeters x 2.40 centimeters.
Diamond, Gold, White Gold
Vintage Art Deco Emerald Crystal Brooch 1950s
Located in Wilmslow, GB
A Vintage Deco Emerald Crystal Brooch. Crafted during the 1950s this spellbinding design emulates platinum and emerald to perfection. Three dimensional aspects are pave set with bagu...
Copper Tone Art Nouveau Lady and Flower Brooch
Located in London, GB
Detailed copper tone Art Nouveau brooch featuring flowers and a lady with swirling hair. Measuring 4.1cm / 1.6 inches by 4.2cm / 1.65 inches. The pin is soldered to the back. Of Euro...
Art Deco Copper and Silver Dove Bird Brooch Pin
By Coro
Located in Chesterland, OH
Introducing a magnificent Art Deco Sterling Silver Dove Bird Pin that exudes timeless elegance and a touch of edge. Measuring an impressive 3.5” (90mm) in length and estimated to be ...
Silver, Copper
$1,837Sale Price|25% Off
W 2.53 in D 1.02 in L 3.03 in
William Spratling 1940 Taxco Deco Retro Pendant Brooch .925 Sterling and Copper
By William Spratling
Located in Miami, FL
Pendant brooch designed by William Spratling. Fabulous three-dimensional scrolls brooch pendant, created in Taxco Mexico by the iconic silversmith Wi...
Silver, Sterling Silver, Copper
An Iconic 1990s Brass and Strass Logo Brooch by Valentino
By Valentino
Located in Aci Castello, IT
This 1990s Valentino logo brooch is a refined and elegant accessory, crafted from brass with a luxurious gold-tone finish. The design features an abstract, oval-shaped form with smoo...
Brass
Czechoslovakian Art Glass Flower Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Unusual Czechoslovakian Art Glass Flower Brooch with multicolored paste center. Unusual slag glass style molded flower in tones of caramel and...
Brass
Modernist Brass Coil Sterling Silver Circle Brooch
Located in Miami Beach, FL
Mexican sterling silver circle within an open circle brooch with a brass wire coil accent. Marked "Mexico 925" on back
Silver, Sterling Silver, Brass
1940s Textured Brass Scottie Dog Figural Brooch
Located in Milford, DE
This charming 1940s figural brooch features a pair of Scottish Terrier dogs in detailed, textured brass. Each Scottie is adorned with a collar, and their alert ears and expressive faces bring a sense of personality and character to the piece. Crafted with a matte gold-tone finish, the brooch is formed from stamped brass with rich surface detailing that highlights the fur texture and contours. The reverse shows a simple pin-back mechanism typical of mid-century costume jewelry. This playful and nostalgic accessory is ideal for collectors of vintage animal brooches...
Brass
Art Deco Bakelite and Brass Carved Oval Pin Brooch
Located in North Miami, FL
This fabulous carved vintage art deco bakelite and brass trimmed oval pin brooch will make any outfit sing. The brass is overlapping loops as the exterior. This is not a common bakelite pin...
Brass
Art Smith Mid-Century Modernist Silver Brooch
By Art Smith
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1960s very scarce Modernist Sterling Silver brooch by Art Smith, measuring 2 X 2 inch.
Sterling Silver
Art Smith Brass Copper American Modernist Abstract Pendant Brooch
By Art Smith
Located in Palm Springs, CA
A large handmade copper and brass pendant or brooch of abstract form created by Art Smith of New York. Pendant measures 4 1/4" in length by 2 3/4" wide and is in excellent vintage c...