Chanels Gabrielle Handbag
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Couture Chanel 1930s Byzantine PurpleHeart RealGems&Pearls Gold Medallion Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Chicago, IL
When French Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel was at her peak during the Art-Deco period as a Parisian couture-fashion designer in the early 1930s, this one-of-a-kind handcrafted gem-fringed and gilt-chain medallion brooch with trombone clasp was commissioned by her to accessorize one of her clothing designs. Marked only "FRANCE" like some early 1930s Chanel couture jewelry (without a brand stamp until the 1950s), its artistic origin is most likely from ornate organic-form sketches by her favorite parurier Fulco di Verdura. The Sicilian duke began creating fabric patterns for Chanel in 1927, which shortly expanded to fine jewelry beginning with custom pieces for herself. These included the iconic Byzantine-influenced gem-adorned cuffs referencing the Maltese-military cross, which the French designer can often be seen wearing in circa-1930s photos.
This bright-yellow gold brooch suits goldsmith Verdura's early anti-Art-Deco aesthetic that was considered a radical departure from 1920s silver-tone jewelry, which otherwise featured linear geometric designs or figurative representation. The softly-shaped deconstructed gem-bouquet mixes amethyst and rose-quartz beads with natural Keshi pearls and intricate tiny gilt leaves, which are wired to a Baroque-motif open-work frame that dangles another gem surrounded by a thick gilt-rope halo. Notably, Verdura is credited with re-introducing since Victorian times the rope motif to jewelry.
Since 1930, Verdura's unique style was influenced by travels with Chanel to explore Byzantine art, Baroque architecture, and exotic flora-and-fauna among his native Italian aristocratic estate. The legendary fashion-editor Diane Vreeland and American entertainment-stars were among the first Chanel clients to acquire couture real-gem-adorned jewelry made by Verdura, while one of the two brooches treasured by Vreeland was titled "Theodora". See our photo of the Byzantine mosaic of Empress Theodora, whose image wearing many teardrop pearls above her chest and surrounded by a golden halo seems to be the inspiration for this brooch.
As one of the most important modern-design collaborations, Chanel's close relationship with Verdura lasted largely undocumented years in Paris, until he launched his first outside jewelry venture with a Hollywood designer-boutique after emigrating to the United States in 1934. By 1939 as a financially-backed in-demand goldsmith, he founded the namesake jewelry-company Verdura in New...
Category
Vintage 1930s French Byzantine Brooches
Materials
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Couture Antique Chanel Late1920s France Rousselet Lampwork Glass Floral Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Chicago, IL
Marked "Made In France" on their antique brass back-plates like the initial unbranded couture costume-jewelry commissioned by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel since 1924, these early-handcraf...
Category
Vintage 1920s French Artisan Clip-on Earrings
Materials
Brass
Couture Chanel Late1920s MadeInFrance WiredPearlLampworkGlass BrassClip Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Chicago, IL
Stamped "Made In France" on their antique brass back-plates like the initial unbranded couture costume-jewelry commissioned by French Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel beginning in 1924, these floral-motif wired earrings with early handcrafted brass flat clips are decorated with button-like cultured mother-of-pearl disks mixed with Parisian organically-coated lampwork glass, which we photographed in indoor sunlight for the most accurate iridescent ecru colors. The pair were designed by Chanel to accessorize a one-of-a-kind clothing ensemble (likely including cultured-pearl buttons) for a client of this pearl-associated couturier whose earliest one-of-a-kind jewelry such as pieces for herself--unlike other 1920s fashion designers--sometimes mixed real and faux gems.
The intricate glass artistry, wired cluster arrangement and earring findings are characteristic of one of Chanel's first Parisian paruriers, Louis Rousselet. He was a lampwork master with a workshop since 1920 that became recognized for faux-pearl glass beads and wire-work construction. As the three-piece flat-brass lever clips without hinge-holes on both sides predate Rousselet's wire-horseshoe clips, they can be dated like the patinated brass hardware to the mid-1920s.
The beads of various sizes and ecru colors that are wired to each earring include five round flat graduating iridescent mother-of-pearls, along with lampwork glass replicating nine baroque pearls, five round pearls and two seed pearls. There are natural imperfections on the green-and-rose-reflecting cultured pearls, while there is some nacre-enamel loss on the glass beads that is not eye visible. On closer view, one of the central round glass beads has a lighter blister, which appears like the texture of some uncultured pearls.
Of note, Chanel did not include a brand signature on any of her couture costume jewelry prior to the mid-1950s. As many of her clients who came to Paris for their couture-clothing fittings were foreign, the coordinated unique jewelry that was expected to leave the country was merely stamped "Made In France" or "France".
We acquired these earrings in The States along with a similar set with fewer but larger "petals, berries and leaves", which we priced the same in a different listing despite the slightly greater size and weight of this pair. So we know that they both were created for a single commission of multiple unique earrings with like lampwork-glass shapes and findings to be paired with the button-like mother-of-pearls provided by Chanel. While we have acquired over a dozen pre-signature pieces commissioned by the founder, these are the earliest earrings that we have discovered by Chanel. We have never found a single match to contradict our recognition of her early couture creations nor to attribute them to another designer.
Further, Art Deco couture...
Category
Vintage 1920s French Artisan Clip-on Earrings
Materials
Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Brass
Couture 1920s Chanel Rousselet Hearts Camellia Metallic Glass Bracelet & Sautoir
By Chanel
Located in Chicago, IL
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel's earliest fashion motifs of camellias, hearts, and topaz are combined in this Art-Deco period tightly silk-strung metallic-glass couture set of a mixed-bead ...
Category
Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Gold-filled, Yellow Gold, Silver, Brass, Copper
Couture Depose France Set PouredGlass Earrings & LampworkGlass 2Strand Necklace
By Chanel
Located in Chicago, IL
Since 1920, French costume-jewelry glass-master Louis Rousselet was among a handful of paruriers favored by the leading Parisian couture houses, primarily Chanel. Beyond the stamped ...
Category
Vintage 1920s French Artisan Choker Necklaces
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Chanel Gabrielle Pink Calfskin with Mixed Hardware Small
By Chanel
Located in London, GB
The Chanel Gabrielle bag, a tribute to the iconic Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel, is presented here in a vibrant neon pink lambskin, a striking reinterpretation of Karl Lagerfeld's design. ...
Category
2010s Structured Shoulder Bags
Chanel Gabrielle Large Hobo Bag in Black and Beige Quilted Leather
By Chanel
Located in Sydney, New South Wales
Elevate your everyday style with this authentic Chanel Gabrielle Large Hobo Bag crafted in quilted beige aged calfskin and smooth black calfskin leather. Finished with Chanel’s signa...
Category
2010s French Shoulder Bags
Gabrielle CHANEL Bag taupe leather
By Chanel
Located in Paris, FR
Condition : very good
Country of manufacture : Italy
Material : leather
Color : taupe
Model : large
Size : 28 x 23 x 10 cm
Hologram : 2606...
Authenticity card: yes
jewelry : gold an...
Category
2010s Italian Crossbody Bags and Messenger Bags
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