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Russian Revival Brooches

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Style: Russian Revival
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By Elsa Schiaparelli

Located in Chicago, IL

Unusually decorated with small partridge feathers like the yellow-gold gilt necklace commissioned by Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) that is featured on the front-and-back covers and centerfold of the French costume-jewelry hardcover book, Lina Baretti Parures, authored by Patrick Mauries, this unique pave-crystal yellow-gold gilt metal partridge-on-a-branch brooch is further distinguished as an unsigned Parisian-couture piece for Italian-born Schiaparelli with its combination of embossed text "Made In France" and "Modele Depose", along with the trombone clasp often used in the early 20th Century for custom-made French small brooches. The book centerfold on pages 90-91 shows a closeup of the feathered necklace created by French-born Corsican Baretti, whose intricate decoration often mixed ready-made textural or shiny materials like velvet, cork, metal wire, rhodoid, raffia or feathers with custom-made metal, plastic or glass by specialized Parisian workshops such as Maison Gripoix. The Baretti-book caption about the attributed necklace notes: "Collier realise pour Elsa Schiaparelli. Liege, soie, cannetille, perles de verre et plumes de perdix. Chaine en metal." While none of the captions date this necklace--which could have been from the same commission as our brooch--Baretti created one-of-a-kind jewelry for Schiaparelli from the 1930s to the early 1950s until the fashion designer retired. Our brooch was most likely made for a fashion-show debut of one of Schiaparelli's themed clothing collections in the late 1930s for which she commissioned many costume-jewelry paruriers including Baretti. See our photo of a Schiaparelli 1930s...

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Couture ElsaSchiaparelli MarcelVertes HarlequinDuck GlazedCeramicBrooch, 1937-40
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By Elsa Schiaparelli

Located in Chicago, IL

Between the first advertising campaign that legendary fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) commissioned from internationally-admired Paris-based Hungarian-born multimedia artist Marcel Vertes (1895-1961) for her blockbuster perfume "Shocking" in 1937, and in 1940 when they left France after launching her perfume "Sleeping" shortly before the Nazi occupation during WWII, the illustrator-cum-ceramist distinctly handmade--while traditional materials for couture costume-jewelry were scarce in Paris--this whimsical red-glazed ceramic brooch depicting a duck holding a "wet" umbrella dripped with dashes of turquoise and black glaze. Significantly, the trombone clasp of the brooch pin, the long-pronged gilt frame, and the text stamped on its back plate "Made In France" match a similarly sized glazed-ceramic brooch of a decoratively-chained bear that was published in the book Bijoux (page 146). The author Deanna Farenti Cera dated that likewise unbranded unsigned brooch to 1938 when it was commissioned for one of Schiaparelli's themed fashion shows "Circus". The invitation to that show, which was illustrated with circus characters and performing animals by Vertes' Parisian peer Christian Berard, included a domesticated white duck--notably not holding nor wearing a fashion accessory. Unusually, Schiaparelli had commissioned couture umbrellas from other artisans in the 1930s--a couple of which were acquired by TheMet museum. Another relevant Met acquisition of the designer's couture evening gown, which it dates to Summer 1940, features three large glazed-ceramic fasteners in a contrasting color matching our brooch. The like findings, materials, construction, text, object and palette aside, accessory-adorned ducks were also among the figurative animals commissioned by Schiaparelli for that last collection before the Germans dominated Paris by June 1940, which is evidenced by the photo of the dated gilt hatpin depicting a bejeweled bird head with a bill that appears in the book by Patrick Mauries about another Schiaparelli-associated French parurier Lina Baretti (pages 124-125). See our other listing for one of Baretti's uniquely feathered designs, which likewise has a pronged gilt frame with trombone clasp like ours, but whose partridge subject best suits an earlier Schiaparelli collection for Fall 1938 titled "Pagan". For us, distinguishing our brooch from other one-of-a-kind ceramic pieces created for Schiaparelli couture...

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Antique Fabergé 14K Gold Opal and Diamond Stick Pin 1899–1905
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Antique Fabergé 14K Gold Opal and Diamond Stick Pin 1899–1905

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Located in New York, NY

A Rare Testament to Imperial Russian Craftsmanship Step back into the splendor of Imperial Russia with this Antique Fabergé 14K Gold Stick Pin, exquisitely fashioned between 1899 and 1905. Bearing the hallmark “AT 56”, it attests to Fabergé’s unparalleled heritage of luxury and artistry. Complete with its original box, this piece is a remarkable find for both collectors and connoisseurs of historic fine jewelry. Exquisite Design & Gemstones Opulent Center Opal At the heart of the stick pin lies a round opal radiating with iridescent hues. The play-of-color shimmers under varying light, showcasing the stone’s natural spectrum of soft blues, pinks, and fiery flashes. Diamond-Accented Border Encircling the opal is a delicate halo of sparkling diamonds, carefully chosen for their brilliance. These stones contrast beautifully with the opal’s pastel sheen, highlighting Fabergé’s mastery of combining precious gems to create timeless elegance. 14K Russian Gold Crafted in 14-karat gold (denoted by the “56” hallmark used in the Imperial Russian gold standard), the setting exudes warmth and refined luster. This alloy ensures durability and lasting radiance worthy of the Fabergé name. Historic Hallmarks & Origin “AT 56” Hallmark The piece is inscribed with “AT 56”, signifying both the maker’s or workshop initials and the purity standard of pre-revolutionary Russian gold (56 zolotniks ≈ 14K). Collectors prize such markings as evidence of authenticity and Imperial provenance. Fabergé Legacy Renowned for supplying the Imperial Court, the House of Fabergé remains synonymous with exceptional craftsmanship and design innovation. Owning a Fabergé piece from this era connects you with a storied legacy cherished by royal families and discerning collectors worldwide. Original Box Accompanied by its original presentation box, this stick pin is all the more desirable. The box not only ensures protection but also enhances its collectibility and historical significance. Dimensions & Weight Length: Approximately 2 inches Width: Approximately 0.36 inches at the widest point (gem-set head) Total Weight: 1.24 grams (0.80 dwt) These compact proportions are characteristic of late 19th- to early 20th-century stick pins—elegant adornments often worn on lapels, ties, or hats. Condition & Significance Condition Well-maintained for its age, the pin remains in [please specify if known—e.g., very good antique condition, minimal wear, etc.]. Its design and gemstones appear intact, reflecting the care of its previous custodians. Collectible Rarity Antique Fabergé items—especially those with documented hallmarks and original boxes—are exceedingly rare. This stick pin represents a piece of Imperial Russian history, coveted by collectors for both its beauty and cultural pedigree. Why Acquire This Fabergé Stick Pin...

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Early 20th Century Russian Russian Revival Brooches

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