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How do I identify Schiaparelli jewelry?
1 Answer

To identify Schiaparelli jewelry, look for the maker's hallmark. Most pieces will feature a stamp of the word "Schiaparelli." You will usually find it in hidden areas, such as the clasps of necklaces or the reverse sides of pendants, brooches and clip earrings. For further assistance with making an identification, use the services of a certified appraiser or knowledgeable dealer. Shop a range of Schiaparelli jewelry on 1stDibs.
1stDibs ExpertNovember 4, 2024
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Shop for Elsa Schiaparelli Jewelry on 1stDibs
Elsa Schiaparelli Turquoise Cocktail Ring
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in New York, NY
Elsa Schiaparelli Baroque Revival Cocktail Ring. Composed of leafy vine motif textured gilt plate base metal, faux Tibetan turquoise oval cabochon, with aurora iridized glass, in pin...
Category
Vintage 1950s American Baroque Revival Fashion Rings
Materials
Gold Plate, Base Metal, Gilt Metal
Rare Elsa Schiaparelli Documented Surrealist Lady Bug Cuff Bracelet
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in New York, NY
Elsa Schiaparelli surrealist lady bug cuff bracelet. Of gilt plate metal the bombayed hinged cuffs inset with red, orange molded pate de verre glass lady bugs...
Category
Vintage 1930s French Artisan Cuff Bracelets
Materials
Gold Plate, Brass, Enamel, Gilt Metal
Couture 1937-40 ElsaSchiaparelli MarcelVertes Harlequin Duck GlazedCeramicBrooch
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Chicago, IL
Between the first ad campaign that legendary fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) commissioned from internationally-admired Paris-based Hungarian-born multimedia artist Marcel Vertes (1895-1961) for her blockbuster perfume "Shocking" in 1937 and in 1940 when they left France after launching her perfume "Sleeping" shortly before the Nazi occupation during WWII, the illustrator-cum-ceramist distinctly handmade, while traditional materials for couture costume-jewelry were scarce in Paris, this whimsical red glazed ceramic brooch depicting a duck holding a "wet" umbrella dripped with dashes of turquoise or black glaze.
Significantly, the trombone clasp of the brooch pin, the long-pronged gilt frame, and the text stamped on its back plate "Made In France" match a similarly sized glazed-ceramic brooch of a decoratively-chained bear that was published in the book Bijoux (page 146). The author Deanna Farenti Cera dated that likewise unbranded unsigned brooch to 1938 when it was commissioned for one of Schiaparelli's fashion shows themed "Circus". The invitation to that show, which was illustrated with circus characters and performing animals by Vertes' Parisian peer Christian Berard, included a domesticated white duck--notably not holding nor wearing a fashion accessory.
Unusually, Schiaparelli had commissioned couture umbrellas from other artisans in the 1930s--a couple of which were acquired by TheMet museum. Another relevant Met acquisition of the designer's couture evening gown, which it dates to Summer 1940, features three large glazed-ceramic fasteners in a contrasting color matching our brooch.
The like findings, materials, construction, text, object, and palette aside, accessory-adorned ducks were also among the figurative animals commissioned by Schiaparelli for that last collection before the Germans dominated Paris by June 1940, which is evidenced by the photo of the dated gilt hatpin depicting a bejeweled head with a bill that appears in the book by Patrick Mauries about another Schiaparelli-associated French parurier Lina Baretti (pages 124-125). See our other listing for one of Baretti's uniquely feathered designs, which likewise has a pronged gilt frame with trombone clasp like ours, but whose partridge subject best suits an earlier Schiaparelli collection for Fall 1938 titled "Pagan".
For us, distinguishing our brooch from other one-of-a-kind ceramic pieces created for Schiaparelli couture...
Category
Vintage 1930s French Artisan Brooches
Materials
Gold, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal
$25,000
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Couture 1938 France Depose ElsaSchiaparelli Pagan FeatherCrystalGold Bird Brooch
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Chicago, IL
Unusually decorated with small partridge feathers like the yellow-gold gilt necklace commissioned by Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) that is featured on the front-and-back covers and centerfold of the French costume-jewelry hardcover book Lina Baretti Parures authored by Patrick Mauries, this unique pave-crystal yellow-gold gilt metal partridge-on-a-branch brooch is further distinguished as an unsigned Parisian-couture piece for Italian-born Schiaparelli with its combination of embossed text "Made In France" and "Modele Depose", along with the trombone clasp often used in the early 20th Century for custom-made French small brooches.
The book centerfold on pages 90-91 shows a closeup of the feathered necklace created by French-born Corsican Baretti, whose intricate decoration often mixed ready-made textural or shiny materials like velvet, cork, wire, rhodoid or raffia with custom-made metal, plastic or glass by specialized Parisian workshops such as Maison Gripoix. The Baretti-book caption about the attributed necklace notes: "Collier realise pour Elsa Schiaparelli. Liege, soie, cannetille, perles de verre et plumes de perdix. Chaine en metal." While none of the captions date this necklace--which could have been from the same commission as our brooch--Baretti created one-of-a-kind jewelry for Schiaparelli from the 1930s to the early 1950s until the fashion designer retired.
Our brooch was most likely made for a fashion-show debut of one of Schiaparelli's themed clothing collections in the late 1930s for which she commissioned many costume-jewelry paruriers including Baretti. See our photo of a Schiaparelli 1930s...
Category
Vintage 1930s French Artisan Brooches
Materials
Crystal, Gold, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal
Elsa Schiaparelli Wide Turquoise Cabochon Bracelet
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in New York, NY
Elsa Schiaparelli Baroque revival wide bracelet composed of leafy vine motif textured gilt plate base metal with faux Tibetan turquoise oval cabochons and iridized Aurora pink/blue/...
Category
Vintage 1950s American Baroque Revival Link Bracelets
Materials
Gold Plate, Base Metal, Gilt Metal
Schiaparelli Late 1950s Vintage Rhinestone and Green Glass Bracelet
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Skelmersdale, GB
A pretty bracelet by a much sought after maker of costume jewellery. This piece dates from the late 1950s and was created by Schiaparelli.
Condition Report:
Excellent
The Details.....
Category
Vintage 1950s American Link Bracelets
Materials
Gold Plate