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40 Carat Ruby Jewelry

3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings
3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings

3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings

By Tutti Frutti Jewellery

Located in Bangkok, TH

SHIPPING+CUSTOM DUTY ARE PAID BY SELLER Elegant and completely handmade Earrings consisting of an upper part of 3 oval shape Ruby cabs of 4 mm x 5 mm set together in 14 Kt yellow go...

Category

2010s Thai Contemporary Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Herbert Rosenthal .40 Carat Ruby Diamond Yellow Gold Brooch
Herbert Rosenthal .40 Carat Ruby Diamond Yellow Gold Brooch

Herbert Rosenthal .40 Carat Ruby Diamond Yellow Gold Brooch

By Herbert Rosenthal

Located in Stamford, CT

Whimsical Herbert Rosenthal ruby diamond bee brooch. 4 round brilliant cut diamonds surrounded by 17 round red rubies. 18k yellow. 17 round red rubies, approx. .40cts 4 round brilli...

Category

Late 20th Century Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

40 Carat Ruby Cabochon Gold Diamond Ring
40 Carat Ruby Cabochon Gold Diamond Ring

40 Carat Ruby Cabochon Gold Diamond Ring

Located in New York, NY

Impressive 18k yellow gold cocktail ring, set with an approx. 40cts ruby cabochon (measuring approx. 21.3 x 16.5 x 10.5mm) , diamonds approx. 1.90ctw. ring size - 8, ring top is 30m...

Category

20th Century More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

Bochic “Orient” Vintage Ruby 40 Carats Ring Set In 18K Gold & Silver
Bochic “Orient” Vintage Ruby 40 Carats Ring Set In 18K Gold & Silver

Bochic “Orient” Vintage Ruby 40 Carats Ring Set In 18K Gold & Silver

Located in New York, NY

Bochic “Orient” Vintage Natural Ruby Cocktail Ring Set In 18K Gold & Silver with Certificate Natural Center Ruby - 8.00 Carat Natural Round Brilliant Rubies Cluster - 30.00 Car...

Category

20th Century Thai Baroque Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

Bochic “Orient” 40 Carat Natural Ruby Cocktail Ring Set In 18K Solid Gold
Bochic “Orient” 40 Carat Natural Ruby Cocktail Ring Set In 18K Solid Gold

Bochic “Orient” 40 Carat Natural Ruby Cocktail Ring Set In 18K Solid Gold

By Bochic

Located in New York, NY

Bochic “Orient” Natural Ruby Cocktail Ring Set In 18K Gold with Certificate Natural Center Ruby - 10.00 Carat Natural Round Brilliant Rubies Cluster - 30.00 Carat This Ring is fr...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Retro Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Gold

40 Ruby Diamond 14K (or 18k upon request) Yellow Gold Gemstone Stud Earrings
40 Ruby Diamond 14K (or 18k upon request) Yellow Gold Gemstone Stud Earrings

40 Ruby Diamond 14K (or 18k upon request) Yellow Gold Gemstone Stud Earrings

Located in Los Angeles, CA

Add a regal touch to your jewelry collection with the 40 Ruby Diamond 14K Yellow Gold Gemstone Stud Earrings.

Category

2010s American Modern Stud Earrings

Materials

14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bague Tank années 40 en or 18 carats et rubis
Bague Tank années 40 en or 18 carats et rubis

Bague Tank années 40 en or 18 carats et rubis

Located in PARIS, FR

Bague Tank en or rose 18 carats (750/1000) à décor d'enroulements asymétriques agrémentés d'une ligne de rubis synthétiques taille baguette en serti rail. Bijou français typique des ...

Category

Vintage 1940s European Retro Fashion Rings

Materials

Ruby

Certified 40 Carat Natural Unheated Ceylon Yellow Sapphire Diamond Cocktail Ring
Certified 40 Carat Natural Unheated Ceylon Yellow Sapphire Diamond Cocktail Ring

Certified 40 Carat Natural Unheated Ceylon Yellow Sapphire Diamond Cocktail Ring

Located in Lisbon, PT

Certified 40-carat natural unheated Ceylon (Sri Lankan) yellow sapphire, ruby and diamond cluster cocktail ring in 14kt yellow gold. Made in an unusual warm alloy that is in between ...

Category

Vintage 1940s Unknown Art Deco Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage 40 Carat Natural Carved Opal in 14K Gold Floral Pendant Necklace 30"
Vintage 40 Carat Natural Carved Opal in 14K Gold Floral Pendant Necklace 30"

Vintage 40 Carat Natural Carved Opal in 14K Gold Floral Pendant Necklace 30"

Located in Miami, FL

Vintage 40 Carat Natural Carved Opal in 14K Yellow Gold Floral Frame Pendant Necklace. The opal is carved to perfection and full of luster. Fixed with a 30 inch 14k solid gold cable ...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Opal, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Recent Sales

GIA Certified 40 Carat Lemon Citrine & Ruby Retro Amulet Pendant
GIA Certified 40 Carat Lemon Citrine & Ruby Retro Amulet Pendant

GIA Certified 40 Carat Lemon Citrine & Ruby Retro Amulet Pendant

Located in METAIRIE, LA

Constructed completely of 14KT Yellow Gold in a Retro Inspired design with 1 Focal G.I.A. Certified Faceted Natural Lemon Citrine / Lemon Quartz weighing approximately 40.00 carats ...

Category

Vintage 1980s Brooches

Materials

Citrine, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian French 2.60 Carat Ruby .40 Carat Rose Cut Diamond 18 KT Rare Bangle
Victorian French 2.60 Carat Ruby .40 Carat Rose Cut Diamond 18 KT Rare Bangle

Victorian French 2.60 Carat Ruby .40 Carat Rose Cut Diamond 18 KT Rare Bangle

Located in Napoli, IT

Memorable Victorian Superb Victorian period antique bangle – bears a full series of French hallmarks Boasting glorious workmanship of the time with lovely ESSE like shaped motifs, e...

Category

Antique 1870s Victorian Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

Art Deco Style .40 Carat Marquise Diamond Ruby Sapphire Platinum Ring
Art Deco Style .40 Carat Marquise Diamond Ruby Sapphire Platinum Ring

Art Deco Style .40 Carat Marquise Diamond Ruby Sapphire Platinum Ring

Located in Woodland Hills, CA

This is a beautiful vintage art deco style ring with an amazing setting. The 6 natural French cut rubies and 6 sapphires are nice quality with great color. The head of the ring is 18...

Category

1990s American Art Deco Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Platinum

Victorian 1.55 Carat Natural Burmese Ruby .40 Carat Old Diamond Seven-Stone Ring
Victorian 1.55 Carat Natural Burmese Ruby .40 Carat Old Diamond Seven-Stone Ring

Victorian 1.55 Carat Natural Burmese Ruby .40 Carat Old Diamond Seven-Stone Ring

Located in Napoli, IT

Say for Ever! Outstanding quality, Victorian period half hoop ring set with 100% natural untreated Burmese Rubies and high grade old mine cut Diamond Beautiful example, finely hand ...

Category

Antique 1870s Victorian Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

IGI Certed 0.49ct Pear Shaped Ruby - In Our Vaults for Approx 40 years!
IGI Certed 0.49ct Pear Shaped Ruby - In Our Vaults for Approx 40 years!

IGI Certed 0.49ct Pear Shaped Ruby - In Our Vaults for Approx 40 years!

Located in Methuen, MA

Here is another wonderful buy/purchase for someone looking for a Nice NATURAL Red Ruby! This has been tucked away in our vaults for essentially 40 years. This is a pear shaped, ...

Category

Vintage 1980s Loose Gemstones

Materials

Ruby

.40 Carat Diamond Ruby Yellow Gold Bangle Bracelet
.40 Carat Diamond Ruby Yellow Gold Bangle Bracelet

.40 Carat Diamond Ruby Yellow Gold Bangle Bracelet

Located in Stamford, CT

Diamond and ruby 14k yellow gold bangle bracelet. 26 round diamonds with 22 round rubies, channel set. Hinged bangle bracelet with an angular design. 7 inches 26 round diamonds, G-H...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage .40 Carat Natural Ruby and Japanese Pearl Dangle Earrings 14 Karat
Vintage .40 Carat Natural Ruby and Japanese Pearl Dangle Earrings 14 Karat

Vintage .40 Carat Natural Ruby and Japanese Pearl Dangle Earrings 14 Karat

Located in New York, NY

Vintage Japanese high luster pearl earrings. 5.7mm pearls .40ct Natural Rubies Lever back Dangle 14kt. yellow gold 4.2 grams. Total: 1.25 Inch Long

Category

2010s American Dangle Earrings

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Ruby and Baguette Diamond Ring, 18 Karat Yellow Gold, Est .40 Carat, Mid-1960s
Ruby and Baguette Diamond Ring, 18 Karat Yellow Gold, Est .40 Carat, Mid-1960s

Ruby and Baguette Diamond Ring, 18 Karat Yellow Gold, Est .40 Carat, Mid-1960s

Located in Canterbury, England

A phenomenal ruby set on a 18k yellow gold setting with baguette cut diamonds to each side, on a platinum mount, The large ruby is est. 1.43carat the diamonds totalling . 40 carat.

Category

Vintage 1960s Solitaire Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold

Late Victorian .40 Carat Diamond Ruby and Platinum-Topped Yellow Gold Bird Charm
Late Victorian .40 Carat Diamond Ruby and Platinum-Topped Yellow Gold Bird Charm

Late Victorian .40 Carat Diamond Ruby and Platinum-Topped Yellow Gold Bird Charm

Located in Philadelphia, PA

Designed as an adorable bird, mid-flight with pavé set old mine and Swiss cut diamonds, approximately 0.40 carats total, G-H color, VS to I clarity Sweet details like a single cut ru...

Category

Antique 19th Century Late Victorian More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings
3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings

3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings

By Tutti Frutti Jewellery

Located in Bangkok, TH

Elegant and completely handmade Earrings consisting of an upper part of 3 oval shape Ruby cabs of 4 mm x 5 mm set together in 14 Kt yellow gold with 2 small diamonds in the center, a...

Category

2010s Thai Contemporary Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings
3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings

3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings

By Tutti Frutti Jewellery

Located in Bangkok, TH

SHIPPING+CUSTOM DUTY ARE PAID BY SELLER Elegant and completely handmade Earrings consisting of an upper part of 3 oval shape Ruby cabs of 4 mm x 5 mm set together in 14 Kt yellow go...

Category

2010s Thai Contemporary Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings
3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings

3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings

By Tutti Frutti Jewellery

Located in Bangkok, TH

Elegant and completely handmade Earrings consisting of an upper part of 3 oval shape Ruby cabs of 4 mm x 5 mm set together in 14 Kt yellow gold with 2 small diamonds in the center, a...

Category

2010s Thai Contemporary Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings
3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings

3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings

By Tutti Frutti Jewellery

Located in Bangkok, TH

Elegant and completely handmade Earrings consisting of an upper part of 3 oval shape Ruby cabs of 4 mm x 5 mm set together in 14 Kt yellow gold with 2 small diamonds in the center, a...

Category

2010s Thai Contemporary Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings
3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings

3 Ruby Oval Cabs Yellow Gold Diamonds 40 Carats Pear Shape Ruby Drops Earrings

By Tutti Frutti Jewellery

Located in Bangkok, TH

Elegant and completely handmade Earrings consisting of an upper part of 3 oval shape Ruby cabs of 4 mm x 5 mm set together in 14 Kt yellow gold with 2 small diamonds in the center, a...

Category

2010s Thai Contemporary Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

.40 Carat Total Weight Ruby Yellow Gold Engagement Ring
.40 Carat Total Weight Ruby Yellow Gold Engagement Ring

.40 Carat Total Weight Ruby Yellow Gold Engagement Ring

Located in Hicksville, NY

Ring Size: 6.90 Metal Type: 14 karat Yellow Gold Weight: 2.5 grams Color Stone Details: Type: Natural Ruby Shape: Antique Cushion Carat Weight: .40 carat, total weight. Color: Red...

Category

Antique 1890s Unknown Victorian Engagement Rings

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bochic “Orient” 40 Carat Natural Ruby Cocktail Ring Set In 18K Solid Gold
Bochic “Orient” 40 Carat Natural Ruby Cocktail Ring Set In 18K Solid Gold

Bochic “Orient” 40 Carat Natural Ruby Cocktail Ring Set In 18K Solid Gold

By Bochic

Located in New York, NY

Bochic “Orient” Natural Ruby Cocktail Ring Set In 18K Gold with Certificate Natural Center Ruby - 10.00 Carat Natural Round Brilliant Rubies Cluster - 30.00 Carat This Ring is fr...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Retro Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

.40 Carat Total Weight Diamond Yellow Gold Earrings
.40 Carat Total Weight Diamond Yellow Gold Earrings

.40 Carat Total Weight Diamond Yellow Gold Earrings

Located in Hicksville, NY

Item Details: Length: .50 inches Metal Type: 14 karat Yellow Gold Weight: 5.8 grams Center Diamond Details Shape: Rose Cut Diamonds Total Carat Weight: .40 carat, total weight C...

Category

Antique 1890s Unknown Victorian Dangle Earrings

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

40 Carat Burma Ruby Diamond Platinum Bracelet
40 Carat Burma Ruby Diamond Platinum Bracelet

40 Carat Burma Ruby Diamond Platinum Bracelet

Located in Chestnut Hill, MA

Stunning Burmese ruby and diamond bracelet set in platinum with over 40 carats of gem pigeon blood red rubies and 13.5 carats of gem white diamonds.

Category

20th Century Unknown Art Deco Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, Platinum

Yellow Gold Bracelet with Approx 40 Carats Cabochons Ruby, Emerald and Sapphire
Yellow Gold Bracelet with Approx 40 Carats Cabochons Ruby, Emerald and Sapphire

Yellow Gold Bracelet with Approx 40 Carats Cabochons Ruby, Emerald and Sapphire

Located in Surfside, FL

Spectacular "TUTTI FRUTTI" wide 18k bracelet with approx 40 carats cabochons ruby, emerald and sapphire, and over 20 carats round brilliant cut diamonds, estimate: G-H color, VS-SI c...

Category

20th Century Link Bracelets

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Yellow Gold

Superb 2.0 Carat Natural Ruby .40 Carat Diamond Classy Vintage Halo Studs
Superb 2.0 Carat Natural Ruby .40 Carat Diamond Classy Vintage Halo Studs

Superb 2.0 Carat Natural Ruby .40 Carat Diamond Classy Vintage Halo Studs

Located in Napoli, IT

Ruby Passion! Versatile, captivating, classy halo style, vintage Ruby & Diamond Stud earrings Will adorn your ears with cheerful red Colour and sparkle in a easy version always char...

Category

Vintage 1960s Contemporary Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

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By Christian Dior, John Galliano

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Early 2000s French Evening Dresses and Gowns

AGL Certified 24.25 Carat Ruby Cabochon & Diamond Ring In 18 K White Gold
AGL Certified 24.25 Carat Ruby Cabochon & Diamond Ring In 18 K White Gold

AGL Certified 24.25 Carat Ruby Cabochon & Diamond Ring In 18 K White Gold

Located in Chicago, IL

This piece comes directly from the vault of Atlantic Diamond Company—a family-run fine jewelry house with nearly 50 years of history serving elite collectors, retailers, and dealers ...

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Materials

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Moschino Photo Print Velvet Dress

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By Moschino Cheap and Chic, Moschino

Located in Water Mill, NY

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By Christian Dior

Located in Zürich, CH

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Category

2010s French Tote Bags

Dolce & Gabbana Lime Green Flared Pencil Skirt with Yellow Lace Accents
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Dolce & Gabbana Lime Green Flared Pencil Skirt with Yellow Lace Accents

By Dolce & Gabbana

Located in San Francisco, CA

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Category

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18K Yellow Gold Bee Pin with 1.60ct Diamonds & Emerald Eyes, 1960s

18K Yellow Gold Bee Pin with 1.60ct Diamonds & Emerald Eyes, 1960s

Located in Houston, TX

18K yellow gold pin depicting a bee with pavé round diamonds and cabochon emerald eyes. The back is encrusted with 24 diamonds that total 1.60 carats, H-I color and SI2 clarity. P...

Category

Vintage 1960s American Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bochic “Capri” Vintage 167 Carat Multi Ruby & Emerald Cuff 18K Gold & Silver
Bochic “Capri” Vintage 167 Carat Multi Ruby & Emerald Cuff 18K Gold & Silver

Bochic “Capri” Vintage 167 Carat Multi Ruby & Emerald Cuff 18K Gold & Silver

By Bochic

Located in New York, NY

Bochic “Capri” Vintage 167 Carat Multi Ruby & Emerald Cuff Set In 18K Gold & Silver Natural Ruby - 167 Carats Natural Emerald - 7 Carats The Bochic "Capri" Multi Fancy Gems Brac...

Category

Late 20th Century Thai Baroque Cuff Bracelets

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

Emerald Bee Brooch Pin 14KT yellow gold
Emerald Bee Brooch Pin 14KT yellow gold

Emerald Bee Brooch Pin 14KT yellow gold

Located in Jupiter, FL

Emerald Gold Brooch in 14KT yellow gold, pretty green brooch pin! METAL: 14KT yellow gold Grams:2.75 Item25000006 mta WHAT YOU GET AT STAMPAR JEWELERS: Stampar Jewelers, located in...

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Materials

Emerald, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

1960s Jean Patou Vintage Wool Jacket + Skirt Suit Ensemble with Faux Fur Trim
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By Jean Patou

Located in Sparks, NV

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Bochic “Orient” Vintage Sapphire, Ruby & Multi Gem Brooch - 18K Gold & Silver

By Bochic

Located in New York, NY

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Materials

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Two piece Wool Tweed Suit with Black Fox Fur Collar

Two piece Wool Tweed Suit with Black Fox Fur Collar

Located in Amsterdam, NL

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20th Century German Skirt Suits

Vintage Buccellati Burma Ruby Ring. 7.40ct Oval Cut Ruby Diamond 18K Yellow Gold
Vintage Buccellati Burma Ruby Ring. 7.40ct Oval Cut Ruby Diamond 18K Yellow Gold

Vintage Buccellati Burma Ruby Ring. 7.40ct Oval Cut Ruby Diamond 18K Yellow Gold

By Buccellati

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Yellow Gold 36 Carat Ruby Cabochon Diamond Cocktail Ring

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Victorian Opal and Diamond Crown Tiara Haircomb Necklace, circa 1880s

Victorian Opal and Diamond Crown Tiara Haircomb Necklace, circa 1880s

Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE

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40 Carat Ruby Jewelry For Sale on 1stDibs

Find the exact piece of 40 carat ruby jewelry you’re shopping for in the variety available on 1stDibs. Frequently made of Gold, 18k Gold and 14k Gold, this item was constructed with great care. You can easily find a 93 antique edition and 97 modern creations to choose from as well. Finding the perfect item from our selection of 40 carat ruby jewelry may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 19th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. Creating a choice in our collection of 40 carat ruby jewelry has been a part of the legacy of many jewelers, but those produced by Luigi Ferrara, LB Exclusive and Malpani Jewels are consistently popular. See these pages for a round cut iteration of this accessory, while there are also oval cut cut and mixed cut cut versions available here, too. There aren’t many items for men if you’re seeking an object in our assortment of 40 carat ruby jewelry, as most of the options available are for women and unisex.

How Much is a 40 Carat Ruby Jewelry?

The price for a piece of 40 carat ruby jewelry starts at $250 and tops out at $648,000 with these rings, on average, selling for $3,500.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

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