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Ruby Riviera

Diamond Ruby Riviera Necklace Design by Ella Gafter
Diamond Ruby Riviera Necklace Design by Ella Gafter

Diamond Ruby Riviera Necklace Design by Ella Gafter

By Ella Gafter

Located in New York, NY

The diamond ruby riviera necklace features a marvelously articulated 15.5” riviera of perfectly calibrated and homogeneous round diamonds suspending 9 diamonds each weighing 0.20 car...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Artist Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

NWT $12, 500 Rare Gorgeous 18KT Fancy Glittering Ruby Riviera Tennis Necklace
NWT $12, 500 Rare Gorgeous 18KT Fancy Glittering Ruby Riviera Tennis Necklace

NWT $12, 500 Rare Gorgeous 18KT Fancy Glittering Ruby Riviera Tennis Necklace

Located in New York, NY

A Rare 18KT White Gold Emerald Riviera Necklace. Necklace is comprised of Finely Set Glittering Gorgeous Rubies!!!

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Chain Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

Vintage Multirow Ruby and Diamond Riviera Necklace
Vintage Multirow Ruby and Diamond Riviera Necklace

Vintage Multirow Ruby and Diamond Riviera Necklace

Located in Old Tappan, NJ

Pre-owned vintage 18K yellow gold, multi row, riviera necklace with 135 round rubies, with an approximate weight of 15 carats. 

Category

1990s Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage 34.22ctw Ruby & Diamond Riviera Tennis Necklace 16 Inch
Vintage 34.22ctw Ruby & Diamond Riviera Tennis Necklace 16 Inch

Vintage 34.22ctw Ruby & Diamond Riviera Tennis Necklace 16 Inch

Located in Miami, FL

A striking vintage ruby and diamond Riviera necklace crafted in solid 14K yellow gold and set with a full line of richly saturated oval rubies totaling approximately 32.45 carats.

Category

Vintage 1970s Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold

Emilio Jewelry 42.00 Carat Oval Ruby Diamond Riviera Necklace
Emilio Jewelry 42.00 Carat Oval Ruby Diamond Riviera Necklace

Emilio Jewelry 42.00 Carat Oval Ruby Diamond Riviera Necklace

By Emilio!

Located in New York, NY

From the vault at Emilio Jewelry located on New York's iconic Fifth Avenue, Diamond Weight: 14.74 carats Ruby Stone Weight: 27.42 carats of gorgeous vivid red high clarity rubies Pl...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby

Vintage 1970s Oscar Heyman Ruby and Diamond Riviera Necklace
Vintage 1970s Oscar Heyman Ruby and Diamond Riviera Necklace

Vintage 1970s Oscar Heyman Ruby and Diamond Riviera Necklace

By Oscar Heyman

Located in New York, NY

Finely crafted in 18k yellow gold and platinum with graduating Round cut Rubies weighing a total of 14.01 carats, center weighing 1.06 carats, and graduating Round Brilliant cut Diam...

Category

Vintage 1970s Link Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

18K White Gold Riviera Necklace with 8.8ct Oval & Round Diamonds and 71ct Rubies
18K White Gold Riviera Necklace with 8.8ct Oval & Round Diamonds and 71ct Rubies

18K White Gold Riviera Necklace with 8.8ct Oval & Round Diamonds and 71ct Rubies

Located in New York, NY

Embrace the allure of vintage and estate jewelry with this exceptional piece. Style: Riviera Metal: 18 Karat White Gold Gemstone 1: 71 Carat Ruby Number of Stones: 142 Shape: Oval Sh...

Category

20th Century Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Natural 8.90ct Ruby & 1.24ct Diamond Riviera Tennis Necklace in 14K White Gold
Natural 8.90ct Ruby & 1.24ct Diamond Riviera Tennis Necklace in 14K White Gold

Natural 8.90ct Ruby & 1.24ct Diamond Riviera Tennis Necklace in 14K White Gold

By VR Jewels

Located in New York, NY

This contemporary Riviera tennis necklace showcases 8.9 carats of rubies set in 14K white gold.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Modern Rope Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold

GIA Certified 73 Carat Oval Burma Pigeon Blood Ruby & Diamond Riviera Necklace
GIA Certified 73 Carat Oval Burma Pigeon Blood Ruby & Diamond Riviera Necklace

GIA Certified 73 Carat Oval Burma Pigeon Blood Ruby & Diamond Riviera Necklace

Located in Chicago, IL

Oval Burma Pigeon Blood Ruby & Diamond Riviera Necklace – 38.8 Carats Rubies, 35 Carats Diamonds A magnificent Riviera necklace crafted in solid 18K yellow gold (92 grams), measurin...

Category

2010s American Contemporary Multi-Strand Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

CRIERI Riviera Bracelet In 18Kt White Gold With 1.52 Cwt Vivid Red Rubies
CRIERI Riviera Bracelet In 18Kt White Gold With 1.52 Cwt Vivid Red Rubies

CRIERI Riviera Bracelet In 18Kt White Gold With 1.52 Cwt Vivid Red Rubies

Located in Miami, FL

A riviera bracelet with Vivid red rubies designed by Crieri.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Modernist Link Bracelets

Materials

Ruby, Gold, White Gold, Rhodium, 18k Gold

Riviera Ring in White Gold, Carré Rubies and Diamonds
Riviera Ring in White Gold, Carré Rubies and Diamonds

Riviera Ring in White Gold, Carré Rubies and Diamonds

Located in Cattolica, IT

A classic Riviera model band ring made of 18 kt white gold. Embellished with three rubies with a deep red color and carré cut. The central Ruby, larger than the two side Rubies, weig...

Category

Vintage 1960s Italian Artisan Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Recent Sales

Garnet Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Suite
Garnet Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Suite

Garnet Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Suite

By Mousson Atelier

Located in Bangkok, TH

Garnet Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Suite The name and the variety of colours in this collection are associated with the bright Italian and French Riviera, vivid and ...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, Garnet, 18k Gold

Garnet 2.74 Carat Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Pendant
Garnet 2.74 Carat Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Pendant

Garnet 2.74 Carat Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Pendant

By Mousson Atelier

Located in Bangkok, TH

Garnet 2.74 Carat Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Pendant The name and the variety of colours in this collection are associated with the bright Italian and French Rivier...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Garnet, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Garnet 5.19 Carat Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Earrings
Garnet 5.19 Carat Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Earrings

Garnet 5.19 Carat Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Earrings

By Mousson Atelier

Located in Bangkok, TH

Garnet 5.19 Carat Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Earrings The name and the variety of colours in this collection are associated with the bright Italian and French Rivie...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, Garnet, 18k Gold

Rubellite 4.96 Carat Sapphire Ruby Tsavorite Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Suite
Rubellite 4.96 Carat Sapphire Ruby Tsavorite Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Suite

Rubellite 4.96 Carat Sapphire Ruby Tsavorite Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Suite

By Mousson Atelier

Located in Bangkok, TH

Rubellite 4.96 Carat Sapphire Ruby Tsavorite Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Suite The name and the variety of colours in this collection are associated with the bright Italian and Frenc...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Tsavorite, Rubelite, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Roberto Coin 18 Karat Gold Diamond, Emerald and Ruby Leaves Riviera Necklace
Roberto Coin 18 Karat Gold Diamond, Emerald and Ruby Leaves Riviera Necklace

Roberto Coin 18 Karat Gold Diamond, Emerald and Ruby Leaves Riviera Necklace

By Roberto Coin

Located in Southampton, PA

This Roberto Coin necklace is crafted from 18K white gold and embellished with diamonds, emeralds and rubies that total 3.70, 120.20 and 72.50 carats respectively. The necklace weigh...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary More Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Garnet 17.96 Carat Multi-Color Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Ring
Garnet 17.96 Carat Multi-Color Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Ring

Garnet 17.96 Carat Multi-Color Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Ring

By Mousson Atelier

Located in Bangkok, TH

Garnet 17.96 Carat Multicolour Sapphires Rubies Black 18 Karat Gold Riviera Ring The name and the variety of colours in this collection are associated with the bright Italian and Fre...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Sapphire, Garnet, Ruby, 18k Gold

Roberto Coin 18 Karat Gold Diamond, Emerald and Ruby Leaves Riviera Necklace
Roberto Coin 18 Karat Gold Diamond, Emerald and Ruby Leaves Riviera Necklace

Roberto Coin 18 Karat Gold Diamond, Emerald and Ruby Leaves Riviera Necklace

By Roberto Coin

Located in Southampton, PA

This Roberto Coin necklace is crafted from 18K white gold and embellished with diamonds, emeralds and rubies that total 3.70, 120.20 and 72.50 carats respectively. The necklace weigh...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary More Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Gold

ART DECO 1940 Riviera Bracelet In Platinum With 12.30 Ctw In Diamonds & Rubies
ART DECO 1940 Riviera Bracelet In Platinum With 12.30 Ctw In Diamonds & Rubies

ART DECO 1940 Riviera Bracelet In Platinum With 12.30 Ctw In Diamonds & Rubies

Located in Miami, FL

The gorgeous bracelet has been carefully crafted with impeccable details in solid .950/.999 platinum with high polished finish and is embellished with a gorgeous selection of sixty e...

Category

Vintage 1940s American Art Deco Tennis Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, Platinum

Ruby and Diamond Pendant Tennis Necklace 18K White Gold
Ruby and Diamond Pendant Tennis Necklace 18K White Gold

Ruby and Diamond Pendant Tennis Necklace 18K White Gold

Located in Dallas, TX

Ruby and Diamond Pendant Riviera Necklace in 18K White Gold.

Category

Vintage 1980s Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

ART DECO 1920 French Bracelet In Platinum With 11.70 Ctw In Diamonds & Rubies
ART DECO 1920 French Bracelet In Platinum With 11.70 Ctw In Diamonds & Rubies

ART DECO 1920 French Bracelet In Platinum With 11.70 Ctw In Diamonds & Rubies

Located in Miami, FL

The gorgeous bracelet has been carefully crafted with impeccable details in solid .900/.999 platinum with high polished finish and is embellished with a gorgeous selection of sixty e...

Category

Vintage 1920s French Art Deco Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, Platinum

Bespoke 20 Carat Riviera Diamond Necklace with Peridot, Emerald and Rubies
Bespoke 20 Carat Riviera Diamond Necklace with Peridot, Emerald and Rubies

Bespoke 20 Carat Riviera Diamond Necklace with Peridot, Emerald and Rubies

By Antinori Fine Jewels

Located in Chicago, IL

Details • Necklace style: Graduated Riviera • Metal: Platinum • Total carat weight: Approximately 20 cts • Diamond color: F • Diamond clarity: VS • Gemstones: Natural emerald, natura...

Category

2010s Chain Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Peridot, Ruby, Platinum

NO RESERVE! - 5.60Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14K White Gold Bracelet
NO RESERVE! - 5.60Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14K White Gold Bracelet

NO RESERVE! - 5.60Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14K White Gold Bracelet

By Diamonds Mine

Located in Ramat Gan, IL

A truly one of a kind natural Ruby bracelet, set with round ruby stones. The bracelet will stand out in any occasion and is a wonderful gift for yourself or your loved one. Length: ...

Category

2010s Art Deco Tennis Bracelets

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold, White Gold

NO RESERVE! 4.88Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14kt White gold - Bracelet
NO RESERVE! 4.88Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14kt White gold - Bracelet

NO RESERVE! 4.88Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14kt White gold - Bracelet

By Diamonds Mine

Located in Ramat Gan, IL

A truly one of a kind natural Ruby bracelet, set with round ruby stones. The bracelet will stand out in any occasion and is a wonderful gift for yourself or your loved one. Length: ...

Category

2010s Art Deco Tennis Bracelets

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold, White Gold

$1 NO RESERVE! 7.64Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14K White Gold Bracelet
$1 NO RESERVE! 7.64Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14K White Gold Bracelet

$1 NO RESERVE! 7.64Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14K White Gold Bracelet

By Diamonds Mine

Located in Ramat Gan, IL

A truly one of a kind natural Ruby bracelet, set with round ruby stones. The bracelet will stand out in any occasion and is a wonderful gift for yourself or your loved one. Size: 18...

Category

2010s Art Deco Tennis Bracelets

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold, White Gold

$1 NO RESERVE! 5.04Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14K White Gold Bracelet
$1 NO RESERVE! 5.04Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14K White Gold Bracelet

$1 NO RESERVE! 5.04Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14K White Gold Bracelet

By Diamonds Mine

Located in Ramat Gan, IL

A truly one of a kind natural Ruby bracelet, set with round ruby stones. The bracelet will stand out in any occasion and is a wonderful gift for yourself or your loved one. Size: 18...

Category

2010s Art Deco Tennis Bracelets

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold, White Gold

NO RESERVE! 4.89Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14 kt. White gold - Bracelet
NO RESERVE! 4.89Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14 kt. White gold - Bracelet

NO RESERVE! 4.89Ct Natural Rubies Tennis Riviera - 14 kt. White gold - Bracelet

By Diamonds Mine

Located in Ramat Gan, IL

A truly one of a kind natural Ruby bracelet, set with round ruby stones. The bracelet will stand out in any occasion and is a wonderful gift for yourself or your loved one. Center N...

Category

2010s Art Deco Tennis Bracelets

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold, White Gold

Adina Reyter One of a Kind Ruby, Garnet + Diamond Half Riviera Necklace, Y14
Adina Reyter One of a Kind Ruby, Garnet + Diamond Half Riviera Necklace, Y14

Adina Reyter One of a Kind Ruby, Garnet + Diamond Half Riviera Necklace, Y14

By Adina Reyter

Located in Sherman Oaks, CA

Adina Reyter One of a Kind Ruby, Garnet + Diamond Half Riviera Necklace - Y14 14k yellow gold Riviera necklace with prong-set rubies, garnets, and diamonds.

Category

2010s Indian Chain Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Set of Seven, "Riviera Ruby Red" Art Deco Mexican Glassware
Set of Seven, "Riviera Ruby Red" Art Deco Mexican Glassware

Set of Seven, "Riviera Ruby Red" Art Deco Mexican Glassware

Located in Westport, CT

Set of Seven Hand Blown and Beautiful - Riviera Ruby Red; Art Deco Mexican glassware. They are uniquely hand crafted to add a slight difference in sizes - which is the intended look.

Category

Mid-20th Century North American Mid-Century Modern Barware

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Located in Dallas, TX

Magnificent Cartier ruby and diamond necklace features 22 carats of dazzling diamonds and over 10 carats of vivid red rubies all set in 18 karat yellow gold. This vintage creation fr...

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Located in New York, NY

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Located in New York, NY

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Located in Hong Kong, HK

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Garnet, Silver, Sterling Silver

5.03 Carat Royal Blue Sapphire Cushion Three Stone Platinum Engagement Ring
5.03 Carat Royal Blue Sapphire Cushion Three Stone Platinum Engagement Ring

5.03 Carat Royal Blue Sapphire Cushion Three Stone Platinum Engagement Ring

By Merkaba

Located in Beverly Hills, CA

A G.I.A certified 5.03 carat royal blue sapphire cushion cut platinum three stone ring, handcrafted by Merkaba Jewelry Beverly Hills as a refined collector jewel and meaningful alter...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Contemporary Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Multi-gemstone, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Platinum

Beautiful 1960s Extra Small XS Couture Black Silk Chiffon Vintage 60s Gown Dress
Beautiful 1960s Extra Small XS Couture Black Silk Chiffon Vintage 60s Gown Dress

Beautiful 1960s Extra Small XS Couture Black Silk Chiffon Vintage 60s Gown Dress

Located in San Diego, CA

Beautiful 1960s demi couture black silk chiffon sequin evening gown! Features thousands of hand-sewn black sequins throughout the sleeves and skirt. Thin spaghetti strap underlay wit...

Category

1960s Evening Gowns

Chanel Timeless Vintage Cc Tote Towel Rare Piece Black Terry Cloth Beach Bag
Chanel Timeless Vintage Cc Tote Towel Rare Piece Black Terry Cloth Beach Bag

Chanel Timeless Vintage Cc Tote Towel Rare Piece Black Terry Cloth Beach Bag

By Chanel

Located in Miami, FL

Chanel Vintage Beach Bag CC Tote Towel Rare Piece 1989 {VINTAGE 33 Years} White terry "CC" lettering stitched on one side Black leather lined interior Interior zippered and open poc...

Category

1980s Italian Tote Bags

UNWORN Emilio Pucci by Peter Dundas 2011 Navy Crochet Knit Maxi Dress Gown 42
UNWORN Emilio Pucci by Peter Dundas 2011 Navy Crochet Knit Maxi Dress Gown 42

UNWORN Emilio Pucci by Peter Dundas 2011 Navy Crochet Knit Maxi Dress Gown 42

By Emilio Pucci, Peter Dundas

Located in Switzerland, CH

ABSOLUTELY INSANE EMILIO PUCCI MIDNIGHT BLUE CROCHET KNIT CUTOUT GOWN DESIGNED BY PETER DUNDAS SOLD OUT IMMEDIATELY WORN BY TOPMODELS AS CLAUDIA SCHIFFER, MIRANDA KERR AND MANY OT...

Category

2010s Italian Evening Gowns

Bulgari Burma Ruby Diamond Bypass Ring
Bulgari Burma Ruby Diamond Bypass Ring

Bulgari Burma Ruby Diamond Bypass Ring

By Bulgari

Located in New Orleans, LA

This exquisite Bulgari "Toi et Moi" ring, meaning "you and me" in French, displays both the finest gemstones and the exceptional craftsmanship of the renowned jeweler. The bypass rin...

Category

20th Century Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Prada Taupe silk organza fairy pant suit, ss 2008
Prada Taupe silk organza fairy pant suit, ss 2008

Prada Taupe silk organza fairy pant suit, ss 2008

$5,865

Size: Pant - IT 40 - Top - IT 38 (EU)

Prada Taupe silk organza fairy pant suit, ss 2008

By Prada

Located in London, GB

Prada; Taupe silk organza pant suit with printed illustrations by James Jean. Loosely cut transparent blouse with black ribbon trim, choker, fabric button fastenings and caplet. Slim...

Category

Early 2000s Italian Suits, Outfits and Ensembles

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Ruby Riviera For Sale on 1stDibs

You are likely to find exactly the ruby riviera you’re looking for on 1stDibs, as there is a broad range for sale. Each design created in this style — which was crafted with great care and often made from Gold, 18k Gold and White Gold — can elevate any look. If you’re looking for a ruby riviera from a specific time period, our collection is diverse and broad-ranging, and you’ll find at least one that dates back to the 20th Century while another version may have been produced as recently as the 21st Century. There have been many well-made iterations of the classic ruby riviera over the years, but those made by Mousson Atelier, Roberto Coin and Ella Gafter are often thought to be among the most beautiful. See these pages for an oval cut iteration of this accessory, while there are also trillion cut cut and cushion cut cut versions available here, too. Finding a ruby riviera for sale for women should be easy, but there are 3 pieces available to browse for unisex as well as men, too.

How Much is a Ruby Riviera?

The price for a ruby riviera starts at $50 and tops out at $138,000 with these rings, on average, selling for $11,276.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in. 

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.