Vintage 14K Yellow Gold & Ruby Road Runner Tie Tack Lapel Pin
Located in beverly hills, CA
Gorgeous vintage 14K yellow gold roadrunner bird brooch with a natural ruby eye. Handmade and one-of-a-kind, stamped 14K on the back. Measures approximately 1/2 x 1 inches. A lovely...
Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$378Sale Price|20% Off
Vintage Stick/Tie Pin, Fox Head with Ruby Eyes set in 9 Carat Yellow Gold
Located in London, GB
The fox head itself has incredible details, from its whiskers to its mysterious ruby eyes. The possibilities are endless, this versatile pin can be worn in your hair, pinned on clo...
Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
14 Kt Rose Gold and Ruby Tie Pin
Located in Windsor Forest, Berkshire
A 14 Kt Rose Gold & Ruby tie pin, with thirteen rubies set in a horizontal bar.
Ruby, Rose Gold
18 Kt Yellow Gold Diamond and Ruby Tie Pin
Located in Windsor Forest, Berkshire
An 18 Kt Yellow Gold Diamond & Ruby tie pin. The central ruby flanked by two diamonds.
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold
18 Kt Yellow and White Gold and Ruby Tie Pin in the Form of a Polo Mallet
Located in Windsor Forest, Berkshire
An 18 Kt yellow and white gold and ruby tie pin fashioned in the form of a polo mallet.
Ruby, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Unavailable
H 0.4 in W 0.32 in
Vintage Siam Ruby Tie Pin with Diamonds in 18 Carat Gold, English, circa 1970
Located in London, GB
An 18 carat yellow gold mounted tie pin with a central oval shaped Siam ruby surrounded by twelve small brilliant cut diamonds in a claw setting.
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Unavailable
W 0.52 in
Barcelona Football Club Tie Pin, Sapphires, Rubies & Diamond, French, circa 1910
Located in London, GB
An unusual and finely made 18 karat yellow gold Tie Pin of the badge for Barcelona Football Club.
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Tie Pin in Platinum with Ruby & Diamond Drop, French circa 1900
Located in London, GB
Antique tie pin in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold with a looped design and two pear shaped drops.
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Antique Tie Pin with Pear Shaped Burma Ruby & Diamond Crown, French circa 1890
Located in London, GB
Antique Victorian tie pin mounted in 18 carat yellow gold with a pear shaped ruby and diamonds above.
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold
Unavailable
H 0.6 in W 0.6 in
Diamond & Ruby Horseshoe Tie or Lapel Pin in Gold & Platinum, French, circa 1895
Located in London, GB
The platinum is set with diamonds and the 18 karat gold is set with Burma rubies. This particular tie pin has a larger horseshoe than is standard and has an unusual “turn key” safety...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Tie Pin in Gold with Marquise Burma Ruby & Diamond Cluster, English circa 1900
Located in London, GB
A good quality Burma Ruby of marquise shape in a surround of small rose cut diamonds, mounted as a tie pin, angled in design, set in platinum and 18 carat yellow gold.
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum, Gold, Yellow Gold
Unavailable
Dm 0.44 in
Tie Pin in Gold & Platinum, Burma Ruby Centre and Four Diamonds, USA, circa 1910
Located in London, GB
A yellow gold mounted tie pin set with a Burma ruby centre, surrounded by four, old cut brilliant cut diamonds set in platinum within a carved yellow gold setting.
Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Art Deco Ruby Cabochon and Pyramid Diamond Tie Pin, ca. 1930s
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
Art Deco Ruby Cabochon and Pyramid Diamond Tie Pin, ca. 1930s An elegant French Art Deco pin set with two bright natural Burmese ruby cabochons (ca. 1 carats) and centring an unusua...
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum
Van Cleef & Arpels Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Tie Pin, ca. 1930s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
Van Cleef & Arpels Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Tie Pin, ca. 1930s A beautiful pin by Van Cleef & Arpels from the 1930s in an oval shape, set with mystery-cut ruby surround and two Ass...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Antique Garnet, Diamond, Ruby, Gold And Silver Lobster Tie Pin, Circa 1900
Located in London, GB
A Victorian lobster tie pin, hat pin or stick pin, with the body of the lobster carved from a single piece of garnet, with rose-cut diamonds set in the claws head and tail fins, with...
Diamond, Garnet, Ruby, Gold, Silver
Sold
H 1 in W 1 in D 1 in Dm 1 in L 1 in
Antique 1.74 Carat Sapphire 1.04 Carat Ruby and Diamond Yellow Gold Tie Pin
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning, fine and impressive antique 1910s 1.74 carat sapphire, 1.04 carat ruby and 0.24 carat diamond, 18 karat yellow gold tie pin; part of our antique jewellery and estate jewe...
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Yellow Gold
Sold
H 2.5 in W 0.4 in D 0.2 in Dm 0.4 in L 2.5 in
Two Antique Tie Pins with Opal and Ruby and Diamond Fifteen Karat Yellow Gold
Located in New York, NY
One antique tie pin brooch with opal and ruby and one set with old cut diamond Stamped 15CT Measuring between 60 to 66 millimeter long Weighing 3.1 grams Excellent condition Fine je...
Diamond, Opal, Ruby, Gold, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
Pierrot Ruby Diamond Moonstone Gold Tie Stick Pin
Located in Munich, Bavaria
Exceptional carved moonstone cameo mounted in 14 K gold of a smiling pierrot. He is dressed with a diamond set collar that is decorated with a gold mounted ruby. The collar is made o...
Ruby, Diamond, 14k Gold
Antique Pearl and Ruby Stick Pin/Tie Pin in 9 Carat Yellow Gold
Located in London, GB
With endless possibilities, this versatile pin can be worn in your hair, pinned on clothing: blazers, scarfs, coats, and ties.
Pearl, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Sold
H 2.5 in W 0.4 in D 0.2 in Dm 0.4 in L 2.5 in
Antique Tie Pin with Opal and Ruby Fifteen Karat Yellow Gold
Located in New York, NY
Antique tie pin brooch with opal and ruby Stamped 15CT Measuring between 60 to 66 millimeter long Weighing 3.1 grams Excellent condition An antique tie pin brooch set with an old c...
Diamond, Opal, Ruby, Gold, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage Chopard Happy Lady Bug Ruby Diamond Yellow Gold Brooch Pin Tie Tack
By Chopard
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold Diamond Ruby Vintage Happy Lady Bug Brooch Pin Tie Tack By Bulgari.
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold
Antique 14K White Gold Masonic Shriner’s Sword Tie Pin with Rubies & Diamonds
Located in Palm Desert, CA
This antique 14K white gold Masonic Shriner’s sword tie pin is a distinguished piece of fraternal jewelry, combining history, craftsmanship, and subtle sparkle.
Diamond, 14k Gold, White Gold
1900 Ruby Diamond Gold Platinum Winning Post Tie Pin
Located in London, GB
A tiepin in the form of the winning post,set with calibre cut burma rubies in 18ct yellow gold one side,the other with brilliant cut diamonds set in platinum.English c,1900
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum
Antique French 18 Carat Gold Enamel and Foiled Ruby Stick Tie Pin
Located in St Helens, GB
A superb early Victorian period stick or tie pin. French made example in 18 carat yellow gold.
Ruby, Gold, Enamel
Rare Victorian 18 Carat Gold Pearl and Ruby Hand Gauntlet Stick Tie Pin
Located in St Helens, GB
A Victorian period stick or tie pin. Solid 18 carat yellow gold example. Designed with a hand to the top.
Natural Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold
Sold
H 0.79 in W 0.95 in
Woodcock Game Bird Tie or Lapel Pin in Gold with Ruby Eye, English, circa 1895
Located in London, GB
It has been crafted in 18 carat yellow gold with realistic feathering and 2 Burma rubies for the eyes. Tie pins are normally flat in design but this pin is formed of the whole head o...
Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage Emerald Tie or Lapel Pin with Diamond Surround, English, circa 1970
Located in London, GB
Mounted in 18 carat yellow gold. Identical to a ruby and diamond tie pin also in my collection which were made at the same time by the same company.
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Diamond Fox Stickpin of Silver and 14k Gold
Located in Lewisburg, PA
A fine example of late Victorian animal jewelry, this antique stickpin (circa 1880) features a finely modeled fox head in silver, its surface pavé-set with sparkling rose cut diamond...
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Silver
Edwardian Old Mine Diamond Ruby Silver 18 Karat Gold Antique Fox Head Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a dimensional sterling silver fox head with pointed ears and baring teeth Centering an old mine cut diamond weighing approximately 0.40 carat O color with VS2 clarity - b...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver, Sterling Silver
Mellerio Brooch Bird Brooch in 18 Karat Yellow Gold and Ruby Circa 1960
By Mellerio
Located in Paris, FR
MELLERIO Bird Brooch in 18 carat yellow Gold, the Eye setting a Ruby circa 1960. Small bird in profile on a branch, the body finely chiseled in imitation of the plumage, the twisted ...
Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
14K Yellow Gold Hummingbird Brooch, 20th Century, 3.3g, USA
Located in New York, NY
This exquisite 14K yellow gold hummingbird brooch is a refined celebration of artistry and symbolism. Weighing 3.3 grams and measuring 1" wide by 0.90" long, it is crafted with elega...
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Tiffany & Co. Vintage Small Cute Bird Brooch 18k 1970's
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Tiffany & Co. Small Gold Bird Brooch Pin Vintage circa 1970's A small cute textured bird on a single branch with a round-cut ruby for the eye. Marked Tiffany & Co., makers ...
Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
14k Essex Crystal Fox Stickpin
Located in New York, NY
Art Deco Period Essex Crystal Fox Stickpin set in 14k gold. Wonderful carving and reverse painting on the fox. Mother of pearl backing. 1930's USA. 3" length. Head .5 wide, 5/8" hig...
Crystal, 14k Gold
14K Yellow Gold Roadrunner Brooch with Ruby Accent
Located in New York, NY
Whimsical yet refined, this roadrunner brooch is crafted in solid 14K yellow gold and accented with a vivid 2.00mm round ruby, adding a subtle pop of color and personality. Marked “1...
Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Jean Vitau 18KT Yellow Gold Bird Brooch with .19 Carat Diamonds and Gemstones
By Jean Vitau
Located in New York, NY
Designed by the famed French designer Jean Vitau for Gemveto. Jean Vitau was a pioneer jewelry designer . He was known for patenting the Gemlok setting ,a secure and snag proof way o...
Diamond, Onyx, Ruby, Tsavorite, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Charming Victorian Fox Stickpin
Located in New York, NY
Charming Victorian Fox Stickpin from the 19th Century of hand painted porcelain set in a gold filled surround. 3" length, Porcelain .75" x .65".
Gilt Metal
Boucheron 18 Karat Yellow Gold and Ruby Bird Brooch Pin, 1960s
By Boucheron
Located in Zurich, CH
Adorable 18 karat yellow gold and ruby bird brooch pin by renowned French jewelry house Boucheron, 1960s. Entirely crafted in 18 karat yellow gold and designed as a bird resting on a...
Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
18K Gold Ruby Hummingbird Pin / Brooch Enameled
Located in Wallkill, NY
Delicate hummingbird with spectacular enamel work on the Body and the head. Look at those Ruby Eyes. Measures 1.63"top to bottom x .60" at its widest. Hummingbird motif has been wi...
18k Gold, Enamel
Late Victorian Gold Dress Pin with Sculpted Fox Terrier
Located in Firenze, IT
A Victorian “ Animalier “ 18kt gold dress pin decorated with a fox terrier full figure, overall length 55mm.
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Antique Lion Stickpin of 10k Gold with Diamond, Circa 1900
Located in Lewisburg, PA
A bold and whimsical antique stickpin (circa 1900), featuring a finely modeled lion crafted in 10k gold, gripping an old European cut diamond in its jaws and accented with two vivid ...
Diamond, 10k Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Bird Lapel Pin
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Bird Lapel Pin, Italian 18 karat yellow gold, with a textured small bird motif and a spiral back; marked VCA, 18k, Made in Italy, 750 Size: width 1.5 cm, length ...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian 14K Yellow Gold & Carved Coral Animal Head Stickpin
Located in Towson, MD
This Victorian stickpin is crafted in 14 karat yellow gold, acid tested to confirm its gold content, and topped with a single carved coral animal head, its features open to interpret...
Coral, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$2,750
W 1.6 in D 0.5 in L 2 in
Vintage 14k Ruby Roadrunner Brooch Pin Solid Yellow Gold Bird Kinetic Jewelry
Located in Greer, SC
Splendid vintage roadrunner brooch created in solid 14k yellow gold, featuring a dazzling ruby eye. This wonderful little roadrunner is a kinetic piece of jewelry as its leg can move...
Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$5,450
W 1.42 in D 0.32 in L 1.54 in
Edwardian 1910 Art Nouveau Enameled Wild-Rose Pendant In 14Kt Gold and Diamond
Located in Miami, FL
Edwardian enameled convertible flower brooch. Beautiful wild-rose flower, created in America during the Edwardian and the Art Nouveau periods, back in the 1910 This large convertibl...
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Elegant 14k Yellow Gold Retro Pearl and Chain Brooch, 1996, Unisex
Located in New York, NY
Enhance your ensemble with the elegant allure of this 14k yellow gold pearl and chain pin.The pin features two beautifully connected pieces with a delicate chain. One pin showcases a...
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Handmade Art Deco Platinum Ring 4.11 Ct Old Mine Cut Diamond – I/VS2 GIA
Located in New York, NY
This elegant handmade Art Deco ring features a stunning 4.11-carat Old Mine cut diamond, ( Dating pre-1900’s) graded I color and VS2 clarity (GIA certified). The platinum setting, cr...
Diamond, Platinum
A Victorian gold and turquoise serpent necklace
Located in London, GB
A Victorian gold and turquoise serpent necklace, the flexible tapering yellow gold body formed of three rows of scale-like collets each set with a round cabochon-cut turquoise, the h...
Turquoise, Gold
Vintage 18ct Gold Stamped, 1980s Italian Enamel Ladybug Brooch
Located in Brighton, GB
Vintage Ladybug Brooch 18ct Gold Stamped Italy Circa 1980s A charming ladybird brooch crafted in 18ct yellow gold, stamped Italy 18ct, dating to circa 1980. The domed shell is ado...
Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
Antique Georgian Star Sapphire Diamond Guilloche Enamel 14K Gold Ring Circa 1830
Located in New York, NY
Stunning Georgian Period cabochon star sapphire, diamond, cobalt blue guilloche enamel 14K gold ring. Circa 1830 This beautiful antique ring dates from the George IV/Regency Period. ...
Diamond, Star Sapphire, Yellow Gold, Enamel, 14k Gold
Vintage 1930's Opal Diamond Halo 18K Ring
Located in Scotts Valley, CA
Details: Are you looking for a fabulous Vintage Opal and chunky diamond halo ring from the 1930's? Look no further, we have your ring! This fabulous ring has a beautiful full spectru...
Diamond, Opal, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
French 1925s Art Deco Sapphire Diamond Onyx Platinum Ring
Located in Poitiers, FR
Ring in platinum. A sublime Art Deco ring featuring a platinum mounting and band holding a rectangular cut onyx plaque. The onyx holds 2 asymmetrical settings : one a brilliant-cut a...
Onyx, Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
Art Deco Platinum Ring with 2.76 CTW in Diamonds
Located in Aventura, FL
Step into the elegance of the Roaring Twenties with this exquisite Art Deco-era filigree ring, a stunning testament to the craftsmanship and opulence of the period. Crafted in lustro...
Diamond, White Diamond, Platinum
$405Sale Price|20% Off
L 2.17 in
Antique Dagger/Knife Stick Pin with Ruby and Rose Cut Diamonds in 18 Carat Gold
Located in London, GB
Detailed out of the ordinary antique yellow gold pin, with an edgy dagger sweet motif of a sharp yellow gold dagger sleek and smooth. The handles are crafted with such consideration,...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, 9k Gold
Charles Boutet de Monvel Art Nouveau Opal Diamond Gold Bat Maiden Ring
Located in London, GB
Illustrated in our book: Beatriz Chadour-Sampson & Sonya Newell-Smith, Tadema Gallery London Jewellery from the 1860s to 1960s, Arnoldsche Art Publishers, Stuttgart 2021, cat. no. 6 ...
Diamond, Opal, Gold, 18k Gold
$2,650
W 1.18 in D 0.24 in L 1.18 in
A.J Hedges & Co. 1900 Art Nouveau Enamel Pansy Pendant In 14Kt Gold With Diamond
Located in Miami, FL
Art nouveau Pansy flower pendant brooch designed by A.J. Hedge & Co. A colorful pendant-brooch, created in America during the Edwardian and the Art Nouveau periods, back in the 1900...
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
An Edwardian diamond and pearl-set tiara/necklace
Located in London, GB
An Edwardian diamond and pearl-set tiara/necklace, consisting of eleven knife-edge bars graduating from the centre, each embellished with old-cut diamonds in cut-down collet settings...
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, Silver
A late Victorian diamond-set duck stick pin
Located in London, GB
A late Victorian diamond-set duck stick pin, the polychrome enamelled head with a cabochon ruby-set eye, the body set with fifteen small rose-cut diamonds, all mounted in silver and ...
Diamond, Ruby, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Antique Platinum Horse and Huntsman Brooch, 1.77ct Diamonds
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning, fine and impressive antique 1.77 carat diamond, enamel and platinum horse and huntsman brooch; part of our diverse antique equestrian jewellery collections. This stunnin...
Diamond, Platinum, Enamel, White Gold
Antique Ring 25ct natural Blue Sapphire solid 18K Gold Ø 4.75 US /9.6gr
Located in SE
Luxurious Antique Ring in Renaissance style, band and crown tested solid 18K Gold,not hallmarked, European, ca. XVIII - early XIX centuries. Huge cabochon of natural Light - Blue Sa...
Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.
Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.
Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.
Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.
When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.
According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.
Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.