As Italian jewelry designer Elsa Peretti (1940–2021) told the New York Times in 1978, “All my work comes out of my life; I’m gifted and see lines and shapes where no one else does.” For her Open Heart necklace, that shape was in the void of a semi-abstract sculpture by English artist Henry Moore, an open space that, to her, resembled a heart. The undulating lines of Peretti’s heart pendant are open so that a chain can be pulled right through and it can move freely with the wearer, one of the many unexpected touches that the designer brought to her practice of meaningful adornment. Slightly asymmetrical, with hard edges that contrast its sensual curves, the heart is simple but boldly original.

Born in Florence, Peretti studied interior design before becoming a fashion model. She initially moved to New York in 1968 to continue her runway career. By the end of the decade, however, she was creating her own jewelry for designers like Giorgio di Sant’Angelo and Halston. The Open Heart necklace was introduced shortly after Peretti joined Tiffany & Co. in 1974 and was later featured on the cover of Newsweek. She brought a fresh sensibility to the historic American jewelry house, and within a few years Peretti’s work for the brand became immensely popular.

Peretti immediately recognized that 1970s’ women didn’t want hefty diamonds or cumbersome brooches laden with precious stones; they wanted jewelry they could wear from day to night, ready for the office or the dance floor. Although Peretti embraced minimalism and rejected frivolous detail in her designs — such as the Diamonds by the Yard strands, with their sprinkles of diamonds on gold chains — they always had deep personal meaning. She also drew on the organic shapes of nature, including starfish and bones, reinventing their forms in designing versatile jewelry. Pieces like the Open Heart necklace helped elevate sterling silver and its sculptural possibilities into luxury jewelry status. The material additionally meant her jewelry was more affordable than most Tiffany wares, rendering the pieces some of the retailer’s most popular designs.

Peretti’s partnership with Tiffany & Co. continued for decades, with her sophisticated designs remaining timeless favorites. The Open Heart necklace is one of her most enduring creations for the luxury brand, which still produces it in numerous variations, from examples in gold and those decorated in diamonds to earrings, rings and bracelets. They are objects meant to be worn, cherished and loved. In that spirit, Peretti’s designs have helped change modern jewelry.