Georges Le Turcq
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Pearl, Gold
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Natural Pearl, 18k Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Silver, Yellow Gold
People Also Browsed
Vintage 1920s Solitaire Rings
Emerald, Platinum
1990s Italian Evening Dresses and Gowns
Vintage 1930s American Art Deco Engagement Rings
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
Antique Late 18th Century European Georgian Bridal Rings
Diamond, Silver, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
Antique Early 1900s Unknown Victorian Three-Stone Rings
Diamond, Opal, 18k Gold
Late 20th Century French Modern Engagement Rings
Ruby, 18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Late 19th Century British Enamel Frames and Objects
White Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver
Antique 1840s British Early Victorian Fashion Rings
Garnet, Natural Pearl, 15k Gold
Antique 1890s Victorian Link Necklaces
Diamond, 10k Gold, 14k Gold
Antique 1840s Victorian Bangles
Diamond, Enamel
Antique 1890s Austrian Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Ruby, Natural Pearl, Pearl, White Diamond, Diamond, Enamel, Yellow Gold,...
Antique 18th Century British Engagement Rings
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1910s American Art Nouveau More Jewelry
Citrine, Sapphire, 14k Gold
Early 2000s Art Nouveau Choker Necklaces
Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Gold, Silver, Enamel
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Enamel
Early 2000s Spanish Art Nouveau Fashion Rings
Ruby, Diamond, Enamel, 18k Gold, Gold
Recent Sales
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Cocktail Rings
Opal, 18k Gold
Antique 1890s French Renaissance Revival Desk Accessories
Silver
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Engagement Rings
Diamond, 18k Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Fashion Rings
Brown Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
A Close Look at art-nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Finding the Right rings for You
Antique and vintage rings have long held a special place in the hearts of fine jewelry lovers all over the world.
No matter their origin or specific characteristics, rings are timeless, versatile accessories. They’ve carried deep meaning since at least the Middle Ages, when diamond rings symbolized strength and other kinds of rings were worn to signify romantic feelings or to denote an affiliation with a religious order. Rings have also forever been emblematic of eternity.
Over time, rings have frequently taken the form of serpents, which have long been associated with eternal life, health and renewal. Italian luxury jewelry house Bulgari has become famous for its widely loved Serpenti motif, for example, and its Serpenti ring, like the other accessories in the collection, began as an homage to jewelry of the Roman and Hellenistic eras. The serpent is now a popular motif in fine jewelry. Jewelry devotees have long pined for rings adorned with reptiles, thanks to antique Victorian rings — well, specifically, Queen Victoria’s illustrious engagement ring, which took the form of a gold snake set with rubies, diamonds and an emerald (her birthstone). Designs for Victorian-era engagement rings often featured repoussé work and chasing, in which patterns are hammered into the metal.
Engagement rings, which are reliably intimidating to shop for, are still widely recognized as symbols of love and commitment. On 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings.
The most collectible antique engagement rings and vintage engagement rings are those from the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco eras. Named for the monarchies of the four King Georges, who in succession ruled England starting in 1714 (plus King William’s reign), antique Georgian rings, be they engagement rings or otherwise, are also coveted by collectors. Pearls, along with colored gemstones like garnets, rubies and sapphires, were widely used in Georgian jewelry. The late-1700s paste jewelry was a predecessor to what we now call fashion or costume jewelry.
The Art Nouveau movement (1880–1910) brought with it rings inspired by the natural world. Antique Art Nouveau rings might feature depictions of winged insects and fauna as well as women, who were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized, frequently with long flowing hair. Art Deco jewelry, on the other hand, which originated during the 1920s and ’30s, is by and large “white jewelry.” White metals, primarily platinum, were favored over yellow gold in the design of antique Art Deco rings and other accessories as well as geometric motifs, with women drawn to the era’s dazzling cocktail rings in particular.
Whether you’re hunting down a chunky classic for a Prohibition-themed cocktail party or seeking a clean contemporary design to complement your casual ensemble, find an exquisite collection of antique, new and vintage rings on 1stDibs.