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12.90 Carat Oval Tanzanite and Diamond Cocktail Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
. Stamped 18K. Made by Tobi Gem Setting, 2013. UK finger size 'M'.
Category

2010s English Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Tanzanite, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

1.32ct Tanzanite and Diamond 18 Carat white Gold Halo Cluster Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
to sapphire blue and into deep blue-violet. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer
Category

2010s English Modern Cluster Rings

Materials

Tanzanite, Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

Tiffany & Co. 18ct Yellow Gold and Diamond 'Kiss' Earrings
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in London, GB
. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer, pre-loved, new and bespoke jewellery since 1980
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Modern Lever-Back Earrings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18ct Yellow Gold Diamond and Aquamarine Necklace
Located in London, GB
gold curb chain, measuring 16 inches and weighing 7.1 grams with the pendant. Tobi Gem Setting has
Category

21st Century and Contemporary European Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Aquamarine, Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18ct Yellow Gold and Diamond Tiffany & Co. Cuff Bangle
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in London, GB
diameter the bangle measures approximately 5.7cm. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer
Category

Vintage 1980s American Modern Cuff Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

9ct Yellow, Rose and White Gold Russian Wedding Bangle
Located in London, GB
minor scuff marks consistent with its age. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer, pre
Category

1990s British Modern Bangles

Materials

9k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Cabouchon Turquoise and Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Cocktail Ring
Located in London, GB
interested and we can send you a recommendation link. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Retro Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Turquoise, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

Daisy Diamond Cluster 18 Carat Yellow Gold Flower Pendant and Chain
Located in London, GB
effortlessly transitions from day to night, making it a versatile and elegant addition to any collection. Tobi
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Romantic Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18ct White Gold, Diamond and Pearl Drop Earrings
Located in London, GB
posts. We date these stunning earrings to the 1990s or 2000s. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in
Category

1990s European Modern Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold

Valente Milano 18ct White Gold and Diamond Chandelier Hoop Earrings
By Valente Milano
Located in London, GB
divine pair of earrings that would look brilliant, day or night. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Modern Hoop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Chaumet Liens Diamond and 18 Carat Yellow Gold Heart and Kiss Clip-On Earrings
By Chaumet
Located in London, GB
, through a contemporary reinterpretation of sentimental jewellery." - Chaumet Tobi Gem Setting has
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Romantic Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Pear Royal Blue Sapphire and Diamond Cluster 18 Carat Yellow Gold Stud Earrings
Located in London, GB
8.66 grams together. Hallmarked 1982, stamped EJ CO, 750. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique
Category

Vintage 1980s Unknown Lever-Back Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18ct White Gold Ruby and Old Cut Diamond Cluster Engagement Ring
Located in London, GB
you to perfectly admire the stone. This beautiful cluster ring is currently sized to UK M1/2 . Tobi
Category

20th Century French Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Damiani Sapphire and Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Wide Cocktail Ring
By Damiani
Located in London, GB
interested and we can send you a recommendation link. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer
Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold, Gold

Platinum, Royal Blue Sapphire and Diamond Mid-Century French Brooch
Located in London, GB
absolutely gorgeous piece that would add that stunning finish to any special occassion look. Tobi Gem
Category

Mid-20th Century French Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Platinum

Tiffany & Co. 18 Carat Yellow Gold Belcher Link Chain Bracelet
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in London, GB
craftsmanship. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer, pre-loved, new and bespoke jewellery
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Modern Chain Bracelets

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Dower and Hall 4.05ct Round Pink Tourmaline and Diamond 18ct Gold Dress Ring
Located in London, GB
travel, the richness of far-away cultures and even cherished childhood memories." - Dower and Hall Tobi
Category

21st Century and Contemporary English Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Tourmaline, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

17.17ct Natural Unheated Blue Sapphire and Diamond 18K White Gold Cocktail Ring
Located in London, GB
Certification: The Gem & Pearl Laboratory - 17.17ct 24063 Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer
Category

Vintage 1970s English Modern Cluster Rings

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Diamond, White Gold, 18k Gold, Gold

Antique Old Cut Diamond and Platinum Art Deco Cocktail Watch, circa
Located in London, GB
manual wind movement, measures 6 inches in length and is tested platinum. Tobi Gem Setting has
Category

Vintage 1920s English Art Deco Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

Diamond-set 18ct Yellow and White Gold Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Watch Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
18ct gold. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer, pre-loved, new and bespoke jewellery
Category

Vintage 1960s French Modern Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Damiani Sapphire and Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Multi Row Half-Hoop Earrings
By Damiani
Located in London, GB
can send you a recommendation link. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer, pre-loved
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Modern Lever-Back Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold, Gold

Antique Platinum Art Deco Diamond and Onyx Brooch, c.1920's
Located in London, GB
. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer, pre-loved, new and bespoke jewellery since 1980
Category

Early 20th Century European Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Platinum

Antique Platinum Art Deco Diamond and Onyx Brooch, c.1920's
Antique Platinum Art Deco Diamond and Onyx Brooch, c.1920's
Free Shipping
W 0.79 in D 0.4 in L 2.64 in
Black Onyx and 18 Carat Yellow Gold x 2 Twisted Rings & Earrings Set
Located in London, GB
onyx, creating a spectacular contrast. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer, pre
Category

1990s European Modern Fashion Rings

Materials

Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Ruby and Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Retro Cocktail Watch, circa 1940's
Located in London, GB
sophisticated retro look. Tobi Gem Setting has specialised in antique, designer, pre-loved, new and bespoke
Category

Vintage 1940s European Retro Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

9.73ct Sapphire and Diamond 18ct Gold and Platinum Three Stone Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
finger size K 1/2. Gem and Pearl Laboratory Report : 22274
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, Platinum

Pearl and Old Cut Diamond Open Work Platinum Drop Earrings
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This exquisite pair of platinum drop earrings feature an intricate open work design beautifully adorned with 8 eight cut diamonds on each earring, all mounted in delicate milgrain se...
Category

2010s English Romantic Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Platinum

1.20ct Blue Sapphire and Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Halo Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This wonderful engagement ring features a beautiful oval blue sapphire weighing 1.20ct, mounted in a four claw, open back setting. The vibrant stone is surrounded by a halo of 14 rou...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold, Gold

0.45ct Pear Shape Ruby and Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Pendant and Chain
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This exquisite 18 carat white gold pendant features a wonderful lively red pear shaped ruby weighing 0.45ct, mounted in a three claw, open back setting. The pendant is further design...
Category

2010s English Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

Natural Fancy Deep Orange-Yellow Diamond 18 Carat Gold Cluster Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This timeless cluster engagement ring features a GIA certified 0.83ct natural fancy deep orange-yellow diamond centre, mounted in an 8 claw, open back setting. The vibrant stone is p...
Category

2010s English Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Yellow Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yell...

1.04 Carat H SI1 Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Halo Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This absolutely gorgeous 18 carat white gold engagement ring features a round brilliant cut diamond weighing 1.04ct, certified 'H' in colour and 'Si1' in clarity. The beautiful stone...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

0.99 Carat Diamond Platinum Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This exquisite platinum engagement ring features a beautiful 0.99ct round brilliant cut diamond, mounted in a four claw, open back setting. The central stone is accompanied by 6 fine...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Platinum

1.20 Carat Diamond Rubover Set Platinum Half Eternity Band Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This gorgeous half eternity wedding band is the perfect accompaniment to any engagement ring or certainly significant enough to be worn alone with impact. The ring is fitted with fiv...
Category

2010s British Modern Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

1.10 Carat Aquamarine and Diamond Halo 18 Carat Gold Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This stunning cluster engagement ring features a beautiful round aquamarine weighing 1.10ct, mounted in a four claw, open back setting. The vibrant stone is surrounded by a halo of 1...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Aquamarine, Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

1.13ct Tanzanite 18 Carat White Gold Diamond Cluster Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This exquisite 18 carat white gold engagement ring features a wonderful 1.13ct cushion shaped tanzanite mounted in a four claw, open back setting. The vivid stone is surrounded by a ...
Category

2010s English Modern Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Tanzanite, 18k Gold, White Gold

0.53ct F VS2 Diamond Platinum Daisy Cluster Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This lovely coronet cluster ring is beautifully centred with a 0.53ct round brilliant cut diamond, certified F in colour and VS2 in clarity, mounted in a ten claw, open back setting....
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Platinum

2.52ct Blue Sapphire & Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Halo Cluster Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This lovely 18 carat white gold cluster ring is beautifully centred with a 2.52ct blue cushion cut sapphire, mounted in a four claw, open back setting. The vibrant stone is further h...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

1.16ct Emerald and Diamond 18 Carat White & Yellow Gold Cluster Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This gorgeous ring features a 1.16 carat emerald in the centre, rubover set in 18 carat yellow gold. The green gemstone is beautifully surrounded by 12 fine quality round brilliant c...
Category

2010s English Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

2.06ct Round Brilliant Cut Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Full Eternity Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This exquisite full eternity ring is beautifully claw set with 23 fine quality round brilliant cut diamonds, weighing 2.06 carats combined, all mounted in 18 carat white gold open ba...
Category

2010s English Modern Wedding Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Gold, Gold, 18k Gold

0.53ct E VS2 Diamond Three-Stone Platinum Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This gorgeous three-stone engagement ring features a trio of round brilliant cut diamonds, the centre stone weighing 0.53ct, certified E in colour and VS1 in clarity, and the side on...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

White Diamond, Diamond, Platinum

1.00ct F VS2 Baguette Cut Diamond 18 Carat White and Yellow Gold Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This dainty solitaire engagement ring features a certified 1.00 carat baguette cut diamond, graded F in colour and VS2 in clarity, mounted in an 18 carat white gold four claw, open b...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

0.90ct E VVS2 Diamond 18 Carat White and Rose Gold Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
Elegant and delicate, this engagement ring features a wonderful 0.90ct round brilliant cut diamond, certified E in colour and VVS2 in clarity, mounted in an 18 carat white gold four ...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold

2.88 Carat Oval Blue Sapphire and Diamond Platinum Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This wonderful platinum engagement ring features a gorgeous 2.88ct royal blue oval sapphire, mounted in a four double claw, open back setting. The vibrant gemstone sits atop an exqui...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Platinum

0.45 Carat Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Flower Cluster Pendant
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This beautiful pendant features a round brilliant cut diamond weighing 0.18ct, mounted in a rub-over, open back setting. The gorgeous centre stone is surrounded by 8 round brilliant ...
Category

2010s English Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

1.12 Carat Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Cluster Pendant
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This lovely pendant is beautifully set with an oval cut diamond weighing 0.62ct, in a four claw, open back setting. The exquisite centre diamond is surrounded by 10 fine quality roun...
Category

2010s English Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

0.20ct Diamond and Emerald 18 Carat White Gold Oval Pendant
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This delicate 18 carat white gold pendant is beautifully designed as an oval claw set with 23 fine quality round brilliant cut diamonds weighing 0.20ct in total. A vibrant oval shape...
Category

2010s English Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Emerald, Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

2.08ct H VVS1 Square Emerald Cut Diamond Platinum Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This spectacular engagement ring features a gorgeous 2.08 carat square cut emerald, certified H in colour and VVS1 in clarity. The magnificent stone is mounted in a four claw, open b...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

1.85 Carat Emerald and Diamond 18 Carat Yellow Gold Cluster Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This gorgeous 18 carat yellow gold cluster engagement ring features a 1.85ct oval shaped emerald, in an open back, four claw setting. The vibrant gemstone is surrounded by an exquisi...
Category

2010s English Modern Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

2.46 Carat Champagne Diamond Platinum Halo Cluster Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This stunning engagement ring features an impressive round brilliant cut fancy champagne colour diamond weighing 2.46ct, mounted in a four claw, open back setting. The wonderful ston...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

1.20ct H SI2 Emerald Cut Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This elegant engagement ring features a GIA certified 1.20 carat emerald cut diamond, graded H, SI2. The gorgeous stone is beautifully surrounded by a halo of round brilliant cut dia...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Emerald, Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

1.99 Carat Ruby and Diamond Platinum Cluster Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This beautiful engagement ring features a 1.99ct lively red oval shaped ruby mounted in an open back, four double claw setting. The gorgeous ruby is surrounded by a halo of 16 claw s...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

2.30 Carat Aquamarine and Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Engagement Cluster Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This cluster engagement ring features a 2.30ct emerald cut aquamarine mounted in a four claw, open back setting. The gorgeous stone is beautifully surrounded by 16 fine quality round...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Aquamarine, Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

1.00 Carat Heart Shaped Diamond Platinum Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This exquisite engagement ring features a wonderful 1.00ct heart shaped diamond graded I in colour and VVS1 in clarity, mounted in a three claw, open back setting. The beautiful ston...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

1.20 Carat Champagne Diamond Platinum Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This stunning engagement ring features a champagne coloured cushion cut diamond weighing 1.20ct mounted in a four claw, open back setting. The gorgeous stone is surrounded by a halo ...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Yellow Diamond, White Diamond, Diamond, Platinum

1.42ct Sapphire and Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This stunning engagement ring features a vibrant round royal blue sapphire in the centre weighing 1.42ct mounted in a four claw, open back setting. The gorgeous stone is set within a...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold

1.97ct Ruby and Diamond Three Stone Platinum Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
Exquisite platinum engagement ring featuring a 1.97ct vibrant oval shaped ruby in the centre, in a four claw, open back setting. The beautiful ruby is accompanied by two round brilli...
Category

2010s English Modern Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

1.02 Carat Fancy Yellow Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This wonderful 18 carat white gold engagement ring features a beautiful 'variation emerald cut' shaped fancy yellow diamond weighing 1.02ct, mounted in a four claw, open back setting...
Category

2010s English Modern Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Yellow Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

1.94 Carat Ruby and Diamond 18 Carat White and Yellow Gold Cluster Stud Earrings
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
These beautifully rich stud earrings are each rubover set with a gorgeous oval ruby weighing a combined 1.94 carats mounted in 18ct yellow gold open back settings. The gemstones are ...
Category

2010s English Modern Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

2.22ct Blue Sapphire and Diamond Platinum and Rose Gold Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This gorgeous three stone ring features a round royal blue sapphire weighing 2.22ct mounted in a four claw 18 carat rose gold collet. The gemstone is beautifully accompanied by a rou...
Category

2010s English Modern Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, Rose Gold, Platinum

2.70ct Aquamarine and Diamond Cluster 18 Carat White Gold Swirl Dress Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This gorgeous dress ring features a stunning oval aquamarine weighing 2.70ct mounted in a four claw, open back setting, The gemstone is beautifully encased in the centre of a diamond...
Category

2010s English Modern Cluster Rings

Materials

Aquamarine, Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

1.22 Carat Pink Sapphire and Diamond 18ct Gold Halo Cluster Engagement Ring
By Tobi Gem Setting
Located in London, GB
This stunning engagement ring features a vibrant cushion shaped pink sapphire weighing 1.22ct mounted in a four claw, open back setting. The gorgeous gemstone is surrounded by a halo...
Category

2010s English Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

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Tobi Gems For Sale on 1stDibs

On 1stDibs, there are many options to choose from in our inventory of tobi gems. These distinct designs — crafted with great care and often made from Gold, 18k Gold and White Gold — can elevate any look. Our collection of tobi gems includes designs that are universally popular, but Modern styles, specifically, are sought with frequency. There are many oval cut, cushion cut and emerald cut tobi gems for sale. Most of our tobi gems for sale are for women, but there are 3 pieces available to browse for men.

How Much are Tobi Gems?

On average, tobi gems at 1stDibs sell for $3,830, while they’re typically $1,674 on the low end and $28,528 for the highest priced versions of this item.

A Close Look at modern Jewelry

Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.

Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”

A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.

Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.

Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.