Fusing eclectic influences such as Surrealism and African art, Art Smith was a leading mid-century modernist jeweler and one of the few African American designers to break into the field. His oversize geometric pieces with their innovative use of wire, silver forms, brass, aluminum, stone and glass elements were boldly sculptural yet lightweight, becoming popular in the 1940s and ’50s as expressive statements of adornment.
Born in Cuba to Jamaican parents, Smith moved as a child to Brooklyn, New York, in 1920. After showing an early aptitude for art, he earned a scholarship to study at the Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art in Manhattan. He was especially inspired by the pioneering African American jeweler Winifred Mason, who hired Smith to work at her studio. There he witnessed how she engaged with West Indian folk art through bronze and copper.
After graduating, Smith opened his first shop in 1946 on Cornelia Street in Greenwich Village. Facing discrimination in the predominantly Italian area, he relocated to West Fourth Street where he would work until 1979. Smith developed relationships with stores like Bloomingdale’s as well as New York City’s vibrant Black cultural scene, from which his clients included Lena Horne and Duke Ellington. He also designed work for avant-garde Black dance companies such as those led by choreographers Talley Beatty and Pearl Primus and a brooch for Eleanor Roosevelt.
“The body is a component in design just as air and space are,” Smith once stated. Employing biomorphic shapes, he created works such as the Patina necklace that referenced Alexander Calder’s mobiles with its dangling silver cutouts as well as the Lava bracelet involving two layers of metal that undulate around the wrist.
Smith often used unconventional materials for fine jewelry that made it affordable to people beyond the elite, and he was a vocal advocate for Black and gay civil rights. In 2008, the Brooklyn Museum opened a retrospective of his work. His jewelry is included in the collections of major museums such as the National Museum of African American History and Culture, the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.
Find a collection of Art Smith jewelry on 1stDibs.
Art Smith 1950's Modernist Tiger's Eye Brass Sphere Vintage Collar Necklace
By Art Smith
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as an organically textured curved brass form with tapered terminals With a natural oxidized patina - one end terminates with cable link chain Suspending a 37.0 mm round carved tigers eye...
Tiger's Eye, Brass
Art Smith 14K Yellow Gold Agate Modernist Sculptural Collar Drop Necklace
By Art Smith
Located in New York, NY
This vintage Art Smith necklace reflects the designer’s distinctive Modernist approach to jewelry, combining sculptural goldwork with organic, flowing forms. Crafted in 14K yellow go...
Agate, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Carnelian and Tiger's Eye 'Magic Alhambra' Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
This Van Cleef & Arpels 18K gold necklace features 16 variously sized carnelian and tiger's eye quatrefoil motifs on a fine link chain. Necklace length 48 inches. French assay...
Carnelian, Tiger's Eye, 18k Gold
14K Yellow Gold Princess Lady Victorian Agate Cameo Carving Pendant Necklace
By Vaibhav Dhadda
Located in Jaipur, Rajasthan
14 karat yellow gold princess lady victorian agate cameo carving pendant necklace This stunning Victorian Agate Cameo carving pendant necklace is a piece to marvel. The gold frame w...
Agate, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold
Vintage German Glass Beads with Blue Tiger’s Eye Beads Necklace
By Aracheli Studio
Located in Monrovia, CA
Made of glorious blue tiger eye semi-precious gemstone that reflects colors from purple to blue with hints of golden brown. It is complimented by transparent colorful German vintage glass beads that are edged with 24K gold. On the center is a large flame shaped baroque freshwater pearls. It is measured at 16 inches and can be extended at about 18 inches. The vintage glass...
Tiger's Eye, Freshwater Pearl, 14k Gold, 24k Gold, Gold-filled, Gold Pla...
Effy Lapis Lazuli and Turquoise 14k Yellow Gold Contemporary Drop Necklace
Located in Towson, MD
Contemporary necklace by Effy, crafted in 14-karat yellow gold and showcasing a striking combination of lapis lazuli and turquoise. Rich cobalt-blue lapis is paired with vibrant turq...
Lapis Lazuli, Turquoise, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Tiger Eye Pendant Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Banbury, GB
SKU 33302012 Comes With Full Set (Pouch, Card, Invoice) Date 2018 RRP £2,970 Incl. Taxes / €3,500 Incl. Taxes / $3,350 Excl. Taxes Model VCARD38600 Serial Number JA4609** Metal 18k Y...
Tiger's Eye, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Yellow Gold Carnelian & Tiger's Eye Magic Alhambra Necklace V
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Mayfair, London, London
An exquisite 18k yellow gold Van Cleef & Arpels necklace from the Magic Alhambra collection. The necklace comprises of 16 iconic 4 leaf clover motifs alternating in size, set wit...
Carnelian, Tiger's Eye, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Spiritual Beads Necklace Tiger’s Eye with Sterling Silver925
By David Yurman
Located in New York, NY
Brand David Yurman Spiritual Bead Necklace Tiger's - Eye Material Sterling Silver925 Necklace Length 26'' Long Bead width 4.5mm Necklace Weight 22.7gm Gender Men Condition New Comes ...
Sterling Silver
Vintage Tiger's Eye Quartz Silver Pendant Necklace
Located in Rotterdam, NL
This beautiful vintage pendant necklace is set with a large tiger's eye quartz stone. The silver frame has nice engraved details with a floral decor. The border of the silver frame has a wreath-like design. The tiger's eye is oval-shaped and has a beautiful orangish and brownish hue. The necklace chain is long. It is said that tiger's eye combines properties that promote vitality. If you want to take charge of your personal power and prevail over emotional blocks, this gemstone is perfect. Its bold, encouraging energy also works wonders...
Quartz, Tiger's Eye, Silver
Pomellato Ritratto Tiger's Eye Pendant - '10s
By Pomellato
Located in Milano, Lombardia
Pomellato 18K rose gold pendant with tiger's eye and approximately 0.25 carat of diamonds. Retail Price: €4800. Weight: 14.2 grams. Length:4;Width:2.5 Material: 18k Rose Gold
Jade Carnelian Lapis Malachite Tiger's Eye 14 Karat Gold Necklace Dog Clip
Located in New York, NY
A spectacular natural mined gemstone necklace with graduated beads of Jade, Carnelian, Lapis Lazuli, Malachite, and Tiger's Eye with a rare and wonderful Dog Clip Clasp in 14 Karat Gold. The necklace is 26 inches (63 cm) long. The graduated gemstone beads range from 7mm to 12mm (1/2 inch). The combination of the natural gem colors with the warm 14 Karat gold Dog Clip...
Carnelian, Multi-gemstone, Jade, Lapis Lazuli, Malachite, Tiger's Eye, 1...
14K Yellow Gold Floral Pendant Necklace with Green Agate and Diamonds
By SCALA GIOIELLI
Located in Marcianise, IT
This stunning necklace is a tribute to elegance and the natural beauty of finely selected gemstones, brought together in a truly unique piece. Crafted in 14-karat yellow gold, it fea...
Coral, Diamond, Turquoise, Agate, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
14K Yellow Gold Trio Round Diamond Circle Eternity Drop Necklace
Located in Antwerp, BE
This necklace is a modern take on a classic silhouette. The "Y" shape is specifically designed to elongate the neckline, making it a favorite for pairing with V-neck outfits or eveni...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 14k Gold Tiger's Eye Mariner Link Necklace
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
CIRCA: 1970s MATERIALS: 14k Gold GEMSTONE: Tiger’s Eye WEIGHT: 43.5 Grams MEASUREMENTS: 7/16" wide by 24" long HALLMARKS: 585 A 14k gold necklace featuring oval tiger's eye links i...
Tiger's Eye, Gold, 14k Gold
Natural Tiger’s Eye Bead Necklace Hand-Knotted Sterling Silver Clasp
Located in Milford, DE
A classic strand of genuine natural Tiger’s Eye, featuring its signature golden chatoyancy and deep espresso undertones. Each bead is perfectly polished, hand-knotted on brown silk f...
Tiger's Eye, Sterling Silver
14K Gold Modernist Ed Wiener Sculptural Collar Necklace with Pearl
By Ed Wiener
Located in Venice, CA
This 14k gold signed Ed Wiener necklace has a sculptural form that graces the collarbone in an elegant wave. At the center of the necklace, a pearl is nestled into a small chevron th...
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Smith Brass Copper American Modernist Abstract Pendant Brooch
By Art Smith
Located in Palm Springs, CA
A large handmade copper and brass pendant or brooch of abstract form created by Art Smith of New York. Pendant measures 4 1/4" in length by 2 3/4" wide and is in excellent vintage c...