Fusing eclectic influences such as Surrealism and African art, Art Smith was a leading mid-century modernist jeweler and one of the few African American designers to break into the field. His oversize geometric pieces with their innovative use of wire, silver forms, brass, aluminum, stone and glass elements were boldly sculptural yet lightweight, becoming popular in the 1940s and ’50s as expressive statements of adornment.
Born in Cuba to Jamaican parents, Smith moved as a child to Brooklyn, New York, in 1920. After showing an early aptitude for art, he earned a scholarship to study at the Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art in Manhattan. He was especially inspired by the pioneering African American jeweler Winifred Mason, who hired Smith to work at her studio. There he witnessed how she engaged with West Indian folk art through bronze and copper.
After graduating, Smith opened his first shop in 1946 on Cornelia Street in Greenwich Village. Facing discrimination in the predominantly Italian area, he relocated to West Fourth Street where he would work until 1979. Smith developed relationships with stores like Bloomingdale’s as well as New York City’s vibrant Black cultural scene, from which his clients included Lena Horne and Duke Ellington. He also designed work for avant-garde Black dance companies such as those led by choreographers Talley Beatty and Pearl Primus and a brooch for Eleanor Roosevelt.
“The body is a component in design just as air and space are,” Smith once stated. Employing biomorphic shapes, he created works such as the Patina necklace that referenced Alexander Calder’s mobiles with its dangling silver cutouts as well as the Lava bracelet involving two layers of metal that undulate around the wrist.
Smith often used unconventional materials for fine jewelry that made it affordable to people beyond the elite, and he was a vocal advocate for Black and gay civil rights. In 2008, the Brooklyn Museum opened a retrospective of his work. His jewelry is included in the collections of major museums such as the National Museum of African American History and Culture, the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.
Find a collection of Art Smith jewelry on 1stDibs.
Art Smith 1950's Modernist Tiger's Eye Brass Sphere Vintage Collar Necklace
By Art Smith
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as an organically textured curved brass form with tapered terminals With a natural oxidized patina - one end terminates with cable link chain Suspending a 37.0 mm round carved tigers eye...
Tiger's Eye, Brass
Van Cleef & Arpels Yellow Gold Carnelian & Tiger's Eye Magic Alhambra Necklace V
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Mayfair, London, London
An exquisite 18k yellow gold Van Cleef & Arpels necklace from the Magic Alhambra collection. The necklace comprises of 16 iconic 4 leaf clover motifs alternating in size, set with ca...
Carnelian, Tiger's Eye, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Carnelian and Tiger's Eye 'Magic Alhambra' Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
This Van Cleef & Arpels 18K gold necklace features 16 variously sized carnelian and tiger's eye quatrefoil motifs on a fine link chain. Necklace length 48 inches. French assay...
Carnelian, Tiger's Eye, 18k Gold
Vintage German Glass Beads with Blue Tiger’s Eye Beads Necklace
By Aracheli Studio
Located in Monrovia, CA
Made of glorious blue tiger eye semi-precious gemstone that reflects colors from purple to blue with hints of golden brown. It is complimented by transparent colorful German vintage glass beads that are edged with 24K gold. On the center is a large flame shaped baroque freshwater pearls. It is measured at 16 inches and can be extended at about 18 inches. The vintage glass...
Tiger's Eye, Freshwater Pearl, 14k Gold, 24k Gold, Gold-filled, Gold Pla...
1970s Italian Vintage Tiger's Eye Lariat Necklace - 150g
Located in Bresso, IT
A masterpiece of 1970s Italian high-end costume jewelry. This "Lariat" (clasp-less) necklace is the result of a rigorous manual curation process: each Tiger's Eye gemstone was hand-...
Tiger's Eye
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Tiger Eye Pendant Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Banbury, GB
SKU 33302012 Comes With Full Set (Pouch, Card, Invoice) Date 2018 RRP £2,970 Incl. Taxes / €3,500 Incl. Taxes / $3,350 Excl. Taxes Model VCARD38600 Serial Number JA4609** Metal 18k Y...
Tiger's Eye, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Aria Jewelry Design 18-Inch Multi-Color Tiger's Eye Beaded Necklace
By Aria Jewelry Design
Located in Raleigh, NC
Elevate your accessory game with this stunning 18-inch multi-color Tiger's Eye necklace, designed to captivate with its rich autumnal hues and bold presence. Each 14mm bead showcase...
Tiger's Eye, Gold Plate
Triple Strand Freshwater Pearl, Tiger's Eye & European Glass Necklace - 65g
Located in Bresso, IT
An exquisite triple-strand statement necklace, handcrafted as a unique piece that bridges vintage Italian elegance and contemporary organic design. This jewel features a rich compos...
Tiger's Eye, Hematite, Freshwater Pearl, Sterling Silver, Brass
Van Cleef & Arpels Papillon Tiger's Eye & Diamond Pendant Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
An exquisite Van Cleef & Arpels Papillon pendant necklace, beautifully crafted in 18ct yellow gold. This iconic butterfly (Papillon) design features a richly coloured Tiger's Ey...
Diamond, Tiger's Eye, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Jade Carnelian Lapis Malachite Tiger's Eye 14 Karat Gold Necklace Dog Clip
Located in New York, NY
A spectacular natural mined gemstone necklace with graduated beads of Jade, Carnelian, Lapis Lazuli, Malachite, and Tiger's Eye with a rare and wonderful Dog Clip Clasp in 14 Karat Gold. The necklace is 26 inches (63 cm) long. The graduated gemstone beads range from 7mm to 12mm (1/2 inch). The combination of the natural gem colors with the warm 14 Karat gold Dog Clip...
Carnelian, Multi-gemstone, Jade, Lapis Lazuli, Malachite, Tiger's Eye, 1...
Natural Tiger’s Eye Bead Necklace Hand-Knotted Sterling Silver Clasp
Located in Milford, DE
A classic strand of genuine natural Tiger’s Eye, featuring its signature golden chatoyancy and deep espresso undertones. Each bead is perfectly polished, hand-knotted on brown silk f...
Tiger's Eye, Sterling Silver
Spiritual Beads Necklace Tiger’s Eye with Sterling Silver925
By David Yurman
Located in New York, NY
Brand David Yurman Spiritual Bead Necklace Tiger's - Eye Material Sterling Silver925 Necklace Length 26'' Long Bead width 4.5mm Necklace Weight 22.7gm Gender Men Condition New Comes ...
Sterling Silver
Tiger's Eye Pendant in 18K Yellow Gold
By VR Jewels
Located in New York, NY
Tiger's eye pendant in 18K Gold. It has a oval cut gemstone that completes your look with a decent touch. Pendants are used to wear or gifted to represent love and promises. It's an ...
Tiger's Eye, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold