Fusing eclectic influences such as Surrealism and African art, Art Smith was a leading mid-century modernist jeweler and one of the few African American designers to break into the field. His oversize geometric pieces with their innovative use of wire, silver forms, brass, aluminum, stone and glass elements were boldly sculptural yet lightweight, becoming popular in the 1940s and ’50s as expressive statements of adornment.
Born in Cuba to Jamaican parents, Smith moved as a child to Brooklyn, New York, in 1920. After showing an early aptitude for art, he earned a scholarship to study at the Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art in Manhattan. He was especially inspired by the pioneering African American jeweler Winifred Mason, who hired Smith to work at her studio. There he witnessed how she engaged with West Indian folk art through bronze and copper.
After graduating, Smith opened his first shop in 1946 on Cornelia Street in Greenwich Village. Facing discrimination in the predominantly Italian area, he relocated to West Fourth Street where he would work until 1979. Smith developed relationships with stores like Bloomingdale’s as well as New York City’s vibrant Black cultural scene, from which his clients included Lena Horne and Duke Ellington. He also designed work for avant-garde Black dance companies such as those led by choreographers Talley Beatty and Pearl Primus and a brooch for Eleanor Roosevelt.
“The body is a component in design just as air and space are,” Smith once stated. Employing biomorphic shapes, he created works such as the Patina necklace that referenced Alexander Calder’s mobiles with its dangling silver cutouts as well as the Lava bracelet involving two layers of metal that undulate around the wrist.
Smith often used unconventional materials for fine jewelry that made it affordable to people beyond the elite, and he was a vocal advocate for Black and gay civil rights. In 2008, the Brooklyn Museum opened a retrospective of his work. His jewelry is included in the collections of major museums such as the National Museum of African American History and Culture, the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.
Find a collection of Art Smith jewelry on 1stDibs.
Arthur Smith Sterling Silver Gold Vermeil New York Modernist Ring
By Art Smith
Located in Palm Springs, CA
Sterling Silver ring with golden ball design created by Art Smith of New York, New York. Ring is a finger size 6.75 and is signed Art Smith, Sterling. In very good vintage 1960s co...
Vermeil, Sterling Silver
$360Sale Price|20% Off
New 8.70 Carat Sapphire 24k Yellow Gold Plated Sterling Silver Ring
Located in Eagan, MN
The ring is a size 6 and just stunning. The main stone is a fancy cut oval cut sapphire stone and is 8.70 carats. It measures 13.2 x 11.2 mm. It is a solitaire ring and is set in ...
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold Plate, Yellow Gold, Silver, Sterling Silve...
22 Karat Gold Vermeil Shrimp Ring by Chee Lee New York
By Chee Lee New York
Located in New York, NY
This regal domed-shaped Shrimp Ring is a classic design for the modern jewelry enthusiast who appreciates timeless pieces with a sophisticated edge. Wear...
22k Gold, Vermeil
22 Karat Gold Vermeil Orbit Ring with Yellow Citrine by Chee Lee New York
By Chee Lee New York
Located in New York, NY
This bold 22 Karat Gold Vermeil Orbit Ring comes set with a beautiful Yellow Citrine center that draws the eye in. Size 7- Ring Size is customizable. All items are made to order, p...
Citrine, 22k Gold, Vermeil
$3,360Sale Price|32% Off
18K Yellow Gold and Sterling Silver Modernist ring by Harold O'Connor, c. 2000
Located in Aspen, CO
18K yellow gold applied on oxidized sterling silver, this large and quite unusual ring is by the accomplished goldsmith Harold O'Conner, whose work is very collected today. Marked o...
Amethyst, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver
$344Sale Price / item|20% Off
22 Karat Gold Vermeil Puff Ring by Chee Lee New York
By Chee Lee New York
Located in New York, NY
This fun 22 Karat Gold Vermeil Puff Ring is a spin on a classic shape, designed for the modern jewelry lover who appreciates timeless pieces with a sophisticated edge. Size 6.5- Ring Size is customizable. All items are made to order, please allow 10-15 business days for items to ship after the order is placed. ----- Chee Lee...
22k Gold, Vermeil
22 Karat Gold Vermeil Octagon Ring by Chee Lee New York
By Chee Lee New York
Located in New York, NY
The essential ring that will be the core of your collection that both stands alone or can be complemented to more statement pieces. A finely smoothed interior ensures a comfortable fit. Size 7- Ring Size is customizable. All items are made to order, please allow 10-15 business days for items to ship after the order is placed. ----- Chee Lee...
22k Gold, Vermeil
22 Karat Gold Vermeil Puffy Washer Ring by Chee Lee New York
By Chee Lee New York
Located in New York, NY
Every day fun design, this 22 Karat Gold Vermeil Puffy Washer Ring is a spin on a classic shape, designed for the modern jewelry lover who appreciates timeless pieces with a sophisti...
22k Gold, Vermeil
Ammanii Green Chrysoprase and Zircon 18k Gold Vermeil Cocktail Ring
By Ammanii
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
The Queen statement ring is beautifully handcrafted from vermeil gold, sterling silver base with 18k yellow gold plating, in our signature satin finish with green Chrysoprase and han...
Chrysophrase, Zircon, 18k Gold, Vermeil, Sterling Silver
$311Sale Price / item|20% Off
22 Karat Gold Vermeil Unsquared Signet Ring by Chee Lee New York
By Chee Lee New York
Located in New York, NY
This 22K Gold Vermeil Unsquared Signet Ring is a twist on a classic design. A gorgeous everyday piece designed for the modern jewelry lover who appreciates timeless pieces with a sop...
22k Gold, Vermeil
Large Ornate Vermeil Sterling 6 Carat Amethyst Diamond Ring Size 8
Located in Webster, SD
This stunning estate ring is gold vermeil over sterling silver. It features a faceted amethyst, estimated to be around 6 carats, accented by genuine diamonds. The face of this ring ...
Amethyst, Diamond, Vermeil, Sterling Silver
Gold Vermeil on Sterling Silver Cocktail Ring Lemon Quartz and Blue Sapphire
Located in London, GB
Fabulous gold vermeil on sterling silver ring, featuring a centre lemon quartz surrounded with blue sapphires. Ring size UK O / US 7, inside diameter 1.8 cm / .7 inch, and measuring...
Vermeil, Sterling Silver
Sterling Silver Gold Vermeil Peridot & Black Spinel Ring, Size 7
Located in Webster, SD
This beautiful, unique ring is sterling silver with gold vermeil accenting. It features a pear cut, 4x6mm peridot, a round cut 2mm black spinel and a wavy line of tiny round spinels....
Peridot, Black Spinel, Spinel, Vermeil, Sterling Silver