Mario Buccellati

Italian, 1891-1965

A love of tradition set Mario Buccellati and his fine jewelry house apart in the competitive Italian market and remains a point of pride for the family.

In 1919, Mario launched Buccellati with the opening of his first shop in Milan and quickly built a reputation for his richly embellished traforato, or finely pierced goldwork. The Ancona, Italy–born jeweler’s workmanship was in a class of its own. His rings, earrings, bracelets and other accessories were exquisite, yet the gemstones themselves were never too flashy, elevated instead by the designs’ intricate metalsmithing.

Today the Buccellati family is still closely tied to the business even as it is now owned by Richemont, a luxury conglomerate that also counts Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels among its subsidiaries.

A young Mario Buccellati apprenticed with famed goldsmith Beltrami e Besnati in the early 1900s, although many of the goldsmithing techniques synonymous with Buccellati go as far back as the Italian Renaissance. The family lineage is also said to include 18th-century jeweler Contardo Buccellati.

Owing to the founder’s advanced metalworking skills, the brand is known for designs that feature metal with the delicacy of lace and draw on the wonders of the natural world. The house’s work is typified by intricate gemstone settings that emphasize their natural color and dense engraving techniques that transform the texture of gold.

One of the time-honored engraving techniques that has come to characterize Buccellati’s work — techniques that require apprenticeships and training in the fine jeweler’s workshops — is called rigato. It involves the engraving of a precious metal with a series of parallel lines to achieve a fabric-like effect.

Rigato is on luminous display in the house’s Macri collection of earrings, cuff bracelets and other accessories. A painstaking attention to detail is pronounced in the celebrated Macri, Bartolomeo and Unica collections — witness the striking honeycomb motif, a house signature, that characterizes the Unica collection’s Caterina bracelet, for example.

The Macri collection was the work of Mario’s son, Gianmaria Buccellati, an award-winning jeweler and internationally renowned silversmith who worked to bring the brand to the global stage by overseeing the opening of boutiques in Tokyo, Paris, California and elsewhere.

In 1951, Mario opened his first store in New York City; today the company operates boutiques worldwide. In 2019, the company celebrated its centennial with a new flagship in Paris and the Vintage collection, which features some of its most enduring designs.

On 1stDibs, find a collection of authentic Mario Buccellati jewelry today.

Average Sold Price

$9,246

Styles

Retro

Modern

Vintage Mario Buccellati Double Pea Pod Brooch

$9,950

W 1.65 in L 3.25 in

Vintage Mario Buccellati Double Pea Pod Brooch

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Tampa, FL

A substantial vintage botanical brooch by Mario Buccellati, designed as a naturalistic spray of two elongated pea pods suspended from a leafy stem. The composition is richly dimensional, with each pod formed in contrasting 18K yellow gold and sterling silver. The sterling silver centers create a cool-toned contrast against the textured yellow-gold borders, while broad engraved leaves rise above and around the pods. Fine directional engraving, textured surfaces, and alternating polished and matte finishes give the piece the layered, naturalistic character signature of Buccellati’s botanical works. Measuring approximately 3.25 inches long by 1.75 inches wide and weighing approximately 40 grams, the brooch has impressive scale and presence. The reverse reveals the intricate construction of the piece, along with its signature, individual numbering, and traditional double-pin fitting. Why We Love It Signed vintage Mario Buccellati design Distinctive double pea pod botanical motif Crafted in 18K yellow gold and sterling silver Substantial approximately 40-gram weight Large 3.25 × 1.75 inch sculptural scale Intricate engraved and textured surfaces Layered naturalistic leaves and pod forms Individually numbered Strong example of Buccellati’s mixed-metal botanical goldsmithing Details Designer: Mario Buccellati Type: Brooch / Pin Motif: Double Pea Pod and Leaf Spray Metal: 18K Yellow Gold and Sterling Silver Weight: Approximately 40 grams Dimensions: Approximately 3.25 × 1.75 inches Signature: Signed Numbering: Individually Numbered Construction: Layered Botanical Form with Engraved and Textured Surfaces Closure: Double-Pin Brooch Fitting Period: Vintage Condition: Very Good Vintage Condition with Surface Wear Consistent with Age and Use Mario Buccellati brooch, vintage Buccellati brooch, Buccellati pea pod brooch, Mario Buccellati pea pod, Buccellati botanical brooch, Buccellati 18K gold and silver brooch, Buccellati sterling silver brooch, Buccellati gold brooch, vintage Italian brooch, signed Buccellati jewelry, numbered Buccellati brooch, Buccellati mixed metal brooch, Buccellati engraved gold, Buccellati textured gold, vintage botanical jewelry, Italian designer brooch, collectible Buccellati jewelry, Mario Buccellati vintage jewelry...

Category

1960s Retro Vintage Mario Buccellati

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver, Sterling Silver

Buccellati Carved Jade and Sapphire Necklace

$125,000

L 16.5 in

Buccellati Carved Jade and Sapphire Necklace

By Mario Buccellati

Located in New York, NY

Buccellati Carved Jade and Sapphire Necklace A gold necklace featuring a leaf motif with carved sapphires and jade. With Buccellati paperwork stating it is from 1971 Sapphire Weig...

Category

1970s Vintage Mario Buccellati

Materials

Jade, Sapphire

Vintage Mario Buccellati 18k Gold Diamond Hand Engraved Round Clip On Earrings

$22,850

Dm 1 in

Vintage Mario Buccellati 18k Gold Diamond Hand Engraved Round Clip On Earrings

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Montclair, NJ

--Stone(s):-- (18) Natural Genuine Diamonds - Round Brilliant Cut - Bezel Set - Nice Brilliant White Diamonds - 1.65ctw (approx.) Material: Solid 18K White & Yellow Gold Weight: 14....

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Mario Buccellati

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Mario Buccellati Silver and Gold Compact with Rubies, Italy, 1940s

$3,986

Mario Buccellati Silver and Gold Compact with Rubies, Italy, 1940s

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Napoli, NA

An elegant and highly collectible powder compact by Mario Buccellati, crafted in Italy in the 1940s. Executed in solid 800 silver, the case features the maison’s iconic hand-engraved...

Category

Mid-20th Century Italian Mario Buccellati

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

1980s Mario Buccellati Tulle Emerald and Diamond Earrings

$59,500

1980s Mario Buccellati Tulle Emerald and Diamond Earrings

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Roma, RM

Among the most recognizable creations of Mario Buccellati, these extraordinary 1980s earrings beautifully showcase the Maison's legendary Tulle technique, a goldsmithing masterpiece ...

Category

1980s Italian Vintage Mario Buccellati

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold

Mario Buccellati Diamond Ring in 18k Yellow & White Gold

$38,000

Mario Buccellati Diamond Ring in 18k Yellow & White Gold

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Roma, RM

An elegant and finely crafted vintage diamond band ring by Mario Buccellati, dating to the 1970s and executed in 18-karat yellow and white gold, embodying the Maison’s unmistakable m...

Category

1970s Italian Vintage Mario Buccellati

Materials

Diamond, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Mario Buccellati Maple Leaf 18K Gold Brooch

$13,800

W 1.15 in L 3.25 in

Vintage Mario Buccellati Maple Leaf 18K Gold Brooch

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Miami, FL

A beautifully handcrafted vintage Mario Buccellati large maple leaf brooch in 18K yellow and white gold. Featuring the iconic rigato engraving and a finely textured leaf design, this...

Category

1960s Italian Vintage Mario Buccellati

Materials

18k Gold

Mario Buccellati Vintage Old Mine Cut Diamond 18K Silver Gold Floral Bracelet

$37,000

D 0.55 in L 7.25 in

Mario Buccellati Vintage Old Mine Cut Diamond 18K Silver Gold Floral Bracelet

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Miami, FL

An exceptional vintage Mario Buccellati bracelet crafted in silver with yellow gold lining, showcasing approximately 10.00 carats of Old Mine Cut and Rose Cut diamonds. The intricate...

Category

1940s Italian Retro Vintage Mario Buccellati

Materials

Diamond, Gold, Silver

Browse all Jewelry from Mario Buccellati

Shop Now

Mario Buccellati Sale Prices

Sold Date

Sold Price

Category

Material

Creation Year

2026	$4,200	Brooches	18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Lapis Lazuli	Unknown
2026	$25,500	Bangles	Yellow Gold, Diamond	1960
2026	$640	Desk Accessories	Sterling Silver	Unknown
2026	$13,000	Link Bracelets	Gold, 18k Gold, Diamond, Ruby	1960
2026	$800	Serving Pieces	Shell, Nickel	1990s
2026	$630	Serving Pieces	Sterling Silver, Shell	1990s
2026	$480	Desk Accessories	Sterling Silver	Unknown
2026	$900	Brooches	Gold, 18k Gold	1950s
2026	$25,000	Choker Necklaces	18k Gold	1960
2026	$35,000	Choker Necklaces	Gold	1980
2025	$2,200	Animal Sculptures, Sterling Silver	Sterling Silver	1930's
2025	$2,600	Clip-on Earrings	Gold, 18k Gold, Silver	Unknown

$9,246

Average sold price of items in the past 12 months

$480-$35,000

Sold price range of items in the past 12 months

Bold, Gold and Intricately Engraved, This Mario Buccellati Bracelet Could Replace Your Wrist Stack

This statement piece could become your new jewelry uniform.

What Made the Italian Luxury-Jewelry Brand Buccellati So Famous?

Benchmark of Palm Beach weighs in on the "Prince of Goldsmiths."

Mario Buccellati jewelry & watches for sale on 1stDibs.

Find a range of Mario Buccellati jewelry & watches available on 1stDibs. Each of these unique items was designed with extraordinary care, often using gold. While looking for the most stylish antique or vintage Mario Buccellati jewelry to pair with your ensemble, you’ll find that Mario Buccellati diamond jewelry & watches, from our inventory of 41, can add a particularly distinctive touch to your look. We have 80 pieces in this collection as well as a number of other designs by this jeweler. While this collection reflects work that originated over various time periods, most of these items were designed during the 20th century. If you’re looking for additional options, many customers also consider jewelry & watches by Gianfranco Ferré, Roberta Micheletto, and Fope. Prices for Mario Buccellati jewelry & watches can differ depending upon gemstone, time period and other attributes. On 1stDibs, the price for these items starts at $485 and tops out at $225,000, while pieces like these, on average, can sell for $18,500.