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Mario Buccellati Brooches

Italian, 1891-1965

A love of tradition set Mario Buccellati and his fine jewelry house apart in the competitive Italian market and remains a point of pride for the family.

In 1919, Mario launched Buccellati with the opening of his first shop in Milan and quickly built a reputation for his richly embellished traforato, or finely pierced goldwork. The Ancona, Italy–born jeweler’s workmanship was in a class of its own. His rings, earrings, bracelets and other accessories were exquisite, yet the gemstones themselves were never too flashy, elevated instead by the designs’ intricate metalsmithing.

Today the Buccellati family is still closely tied to the business even as it is now owned by Richemont, a luxury conglomerate that also counts Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels among its subsidiaries.

A young Mario Buccellati apprenticed with famed goldsmith Beltrami e Besnati in the early 1900s, although many of the goldsmithing techniques synonymous with Buccellati go as far back as the Italian Renaissance. The family lineage is also said to include 18th-century jeweler Contardo Buccellati.

Owing to the founder’s advanced metalworking skills, the brand is known for designs that feature metal with the delicacy of lace and draw on the wonders of the natural world. The house’s work is typified by intricate gemstone settings that emphasize their natural color and dense engraving techniques that transform the texture of gold.

One of the time-honored engraving techniques that has come to characterize Buccellati’s work — techniques that require apprenticeships and training in the fine jeweler’s workshops — is called rigato. It involves the engraving of a precious metal with a series of parallel lines to achieve a fabric-like effect.

Rigato is on luminous display in the house’s Macri collection of earrings, cuff bracelets and other accessories. A painstaking attention to detail is pronounced in the celebrated Macri, Bartolomeo and Unica collections — witness the striking honeycomb motif, a house signature, that characterizes the Unica collection’s Caterina bracelet, for example.

The Macri collection was the work of Mario’s son, Gianmaria Buccellati, an award-winning jeweler and internationally renowned silversmith who worked to bring the brand to the global stage by overseeing the opening of boutiques in Tokyo, Paris, California and elsewhere.

In 1951, Mario opened his first store in New York City; today the company operates boutiques worldwide. In 2019, the company celebrated its centennial with a new flagship in Paris and the Vintage collection, which features some of its most enduring designs.

On 1stDibs, find a collection of authentic Mario Buccellati jewelry today.

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Creator: Mario Buccellati
1960s Mario Buccellati Mabe Pearl Diamond White Gold Brooch
1960s Mario Buccellati Mabe Pearl Diamond White Gold Brooch

1960s Mario Buccellati Mabe Pearl Diamond White Gold Brooch

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Roma, RM

A captivating creation by Mario Buccellati, this brooch perfectly captures the maison’s unmistakable ability to transform precious materials into light, texture, and movement. At its...

Category

1960s Italian Vintage Mario Buccellati Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, White Gold

Vintage Mario Buccellati Pear 18K Gold Four Leaf Brooch
Vintage Mario Buccellati Pear 18K Gold Four Leaf Brooch

Vintage Mario Buccellati Pear 18K Gold Four Leaf Brooch

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Miami, FL

An elegant vintage Mario Buccellati brooch crafted in textured 18K yellow gold. Featuring beautifully sculpted leaf motifs accented with lustrous cultured Akoya Japanese pearls, this...

Category

1950s Italian Retro Vintage Mario Buccellati Brooches

Materials

Cultured Pearl, 18k Gold

Mario Buccellati Diamond & Ruby Butterfly Brooch Pin
Mario Buccellati Diamond & Ruby Butterfly Brooch Pin

Mario Buccellati Diamond & Ruby Butterfly Brooch Pin

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Miami, FL

Mario Buccellati Diamond & Ruby Butterfly Brooch Pin A Rare and Collectible Masterpiece Presenting a stunning and highly collectible butterfly brooch designed by the legendary Mario ...

Category

1950s Italian Retro Vintage Mario Buccellati Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

M. Buccellati  Vintage Maple leaf 18K Gold Brooch Pin
M. Buccellati  Vintage Maple leaf 18K Gold Brooch Pin

M. Buccellati Vintage Maple leaf 18K Gold Brooch Pin

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Miami, FL

Celebrate the artistry of Italian fine jewelry with this exquisite vintage M. Buccellati brooch, masterfully shaped into a detailed maple leaf—a hallmark of Mario Buccellati's signat...

Category

1960s Italian Retro Vintage Mario Buccellati Brooches

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1970s Mario Buccellati Diamond White Gold Rosette Brooch
1970s Mario Buccellati Diamond White Gold Rosette Brooch

1970s Mario Buccellati Diamond White Gold Rosette Brooch

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Roma, RM

A beautifully intricate creation, this Mario Buccellati brooch from the 1970s captures the refined elegance and unmistakable artistry for which the Italian maison is celebrated. Craf...

Category

1970s Italian Vintage Mario Buccellati Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Gold

Buccellati Vintage No Heat Blue Sapphire 18k Gold Floral Square Brooch Pin
Buccellati Vintage No Heat Blue Sapphire 18k Gold Floral Square Brooch Pin

Buccellati Vintage No Heat Blue Sapphire 18k Gold Floral Square Brooch Pin

By Mario Buccellati

Located in Miami, FL

This Extraordinary rectangular Vintage  Buccellati Diamond and Sapphire Brooch. This piece was crafted in  Luxurious 18K yellow gold. Measuring approx. 33 mm x 25 mm,  this brooch ...

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1960s Italian Retro Vintage Mario Buccellati Brooches

Materials

Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

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Mario Buccellati 1970 Milan Butterfly Brooch In 18Kt Yellow Gold With Red Rubies

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Vintage Mario Buccellati Designer Signed Diamond Gold Bow Brooch Pin

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Mario Buccellati brooches for sale on 1stDibs.

Find a range of Mario Buccellati brooches available on 1stDibs. Each of these unique items was designed with extraordinary care, often using gold. While looking for the most stylish antique or vintage Mario Buccellati jewelry to pair with your ensemble, you’ll find that Mario Buccellati diamond brooches, from our inventory of 6, can add a particularly distinctive touch to your look. We have 11 pieces in this collection as well as a number of other designs by this jeweler. Retro and Art Deco are among the most popular styles of Mario Buccellati brooches available on 1stDibs. While this collection reflects work that originated over various time periods, most of these items were designed during the 20th century. If you’re looking for additional options, many customers also consider brooches by and Frascarolo. Prices for Mario Buccellati brooches can differ depending upon gemstone, time period and other attributes. On 1stDibs, the price for these items starts at $3,800 and tops out at $78,000, while pieces like these, on average, can sell for $12,799.