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Verdura Brooches

Italian

Fulco di Verdura (1898–1978) is not exactly a household name, except for those who know a thing or two about highly original, often eccentric handcrafted earrings and bracelets, and, even more so, for those fortunate enough to own some. In that exclusive group, Verdura is regarded as the most gifted and coveted designer of his time.

Verdura was born in Sicily in 1898, the scion of a noble family related to the Lampedusas. (His cousin, Giuseppe di Lampedusa, wrote the great Italian saga The Leopard). His life was charmed from birth. Raised in his family’s villa, he grew up during a time when Sicily, and Palermo in particular, were meccas for well-born and highly cultured European travelers.

A bona fide duke with no clear ambitions but creative leanings aplenty (he could draw and paint), the young Verdura was part of the wandering social circuit — the so-called beau monde — that went from capital to capital, resort to resort.

Verdura, though small in stature, had that indefinable quality called charm. As a result, he was the life of every party he attended. When he finally started designing jewelry under Coco Chanel in the late 1920s, many of his friends became his clients (or received the pieces as gifts).

Elsa Maxwell took him under her ample wing when she was hired to do public relations for the Lido in Venice and introduced him to the local and visiting cognoscenti. Chanel, whom he met in Venice, hired him to work in the textiles division of her fashion house. But it was his flair for jewelry that soon caught Coco’s eye. Eventually, he rose to become her personal designer of fine jewelry.

In 2002’s Verdura: The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler (Thames & Hudson), Vanity Fair’s Amy Fine Collins describes the sensation of wearing pieces by Verdura, who drew inspiration from nature for his signature gem-studded seashell brooches and honeybee earrings.

“They were ingeniously calculated to flatter the wearer,” writes Collins. “Earrings undulated to complement the convolutions of an earlobe, rings seductively followed the phalanges of a finger, and necklaces gracefully traced the anatomy of the throat.”

In 1934, Verdura left Chanel and together with two friends, aspiring actress Princess Natalia Pavlovna Paley and Baron Nicholas de Gunzburg, moved to the U.S. After several stops, he found a job through Diana Vreeland in Hollywood with Paul Flato, then the “jeweler to the stars.” Soon he was signing his work and helping Flato cultivate the crème de la creme of the silver screen — those both on it and behind it.

Verdura left Los Angeles for New York and opened his own salon, first on Fifth Avenue in 1939, just as World War II was beginning in Europe. His backers were Vincent Astor and Cole Porter, for whom he made bejeweled boxes and cigarette cases — gifts from Porter’s wife, Linda — to commemorate the opening nights of several musicals.

Verdura began to expand both his repertoire — he became much more daring and flamboyant — and his clientele. The Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, Greta Garbo and others routinely gave him commissions. In 1941, Verdura collaborated on a collection of six pieces with Salvador Dalí to accompany a Dalí exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art. Verdura retired in 1972 and left the care of the company to his partner, Joseph Alfano. He later moved to London, where he died in 1978 at the age of 79.

Among the most prized pieces on display in a 2014 Verdura jewelry exhibition in New York were Greta Garbo’s curb-link bracelet watch, which Verdura designed for her in 1939; Coco Chanel’s pair of Maltese Cross cuff bracelets (she wore one on each wrist); and Diana Vreeland’s duo of Byzantine brooches.

Find a range of vintage Verdura jewelry today on 1stDibs.

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Creator: Verdura
Vintage 18k Gold Diamond Ray Brooch by Verdura
Vintage 18k Gold Diamond Ray Brooch by Verdura

Vintage 18k Gold Diamond Ray Brooch by Verdura

By Verdura

Located in New York, NY

Stylish vintage “Ray” Brooch made in 18k gold and diamonds by Verdura circa 2000. This brooch depicts a star with gold rays shooting out from the center cross that is set with pave d...

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21st Century and Contemporary Modern Verdura Brooches

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold

Verdura Lions Paw, Diamond, Turquoise & Gold Brooch
Verdura Lions Paw, Diamond, Turquoise & Gold Brooch

Verdura Lions Paw, Diamond, Turquoise & Gold Brooch

By Verdura

Located in New York, NY

Verdura Lions Paw Diamond & Turquoise  Gold Brooch This authentic Verdura brooch is a signature design featuring a natural Lion’s Paw scallop shell...

Category

20th Century Italian Retro Verdura Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Turquoise, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Iconic Verdura Wrapped Heart Peridot Brooch
Iconic Verdura Wrapped Heart Peridot Brooch

Iconic Verdura Wrapped Heart Peridot Brooch

By Verdura

Located in New York, NY

Iconic Verdura Wrapped Heart Peridot Brooch A brooch featuring cabochon peridots clustered together into a heart shape. With a gold wire framework & a bow motif on the top. Measure...

Category

1970s Italian Vintage Verdura Brooches

Materials

Peridot, 18k Gold

Vintage 1980s Verdura 20.01 Carat Sapphire Flower Brooch with Diamonds
Vintage 1980s Verdura 20.01 Carat Sapphire Flower Brooch with Diamonds

Vintage 1980s Verdura 20.01 Carat Sapphire Flower Brooch with Diamonds

By Verdura

Located in New York, NY

Finely crafted in 18k yellow gold and platinum with an AGL certified center Ceylon origin, non-heat treated Cushion cut Sapphire weighing 20.01 carats. The brooch features additional...

Category

1980s Vintage Verdura Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Verdura 1909 $10 Indian Head US Coin Yellow Gold Pin Brooch
Verdura 1909 $10 Indian Head US Coin Yellow Gold Pin Brooch

Verdura 1909 $10 Indian Head US Coin Yellow Gold Pin Brooch

By Verdura

Located in Southampton, PA

18k Yellow Gold And 22k Yellow Gold 1909 $10 Indian Head US Coin Pin Brooch by Verdura. With United States Of America Ten Dollars 1909 Indian Head Coin...

Category

1980s American Vintage Verdura Brooches

Materials

Yellow Gold

Verdura Ray Gold Brooch
Verdura Ray Gold Brooch

Verdura Ray Gold Brooch

By Verdura

Located in New York, NY

Verdura "Ray" gold brooch 18 karat yellow gold; marked Verdura, 750, Made in Italy Size: width 2.38 inches, length 2.38 inches Total weight: 52.8 grams

Category

Mid-20th Century Verdura Brooches

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Verdura Platinum, Gold, Baroque Cultured Pearl, Diamond, Emerald and Enamel Swan
Verdura Platinum, Gold, Baroque Cultured Pearl, Diamond, Emerald and Enamel Swan

Verdura Platinum, Gold, Baroque Cultured Pearl, Diamond, Emerald and Enamel Swan

By Verdura

Located in New York, NY

Verdura Swan Brooch mounted in Diamond, Emerald, and Gold, Baroque Cultured Pearl, and Enamel. Timeless and elegant, this swan brooch featuring a luminous baroque pearl as the body,...

Category

20th Century Verdura Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Cultured Pearl, Gold, Platinum, Enamel

Verdura 1950's Lapis Diamond Platinum 18K Gold Vintage Frog On A Leaf Brooch
Verdura 1950's Lapis Diamond Platinum 18K Gold Vintage Frog On A Leaf Brooch

Verdura 1950's Lapis Diamond Platinum 18K Gold Vintage Frog On A Leaf Brooch

By Verdura

Located in Philadelphia, PA

Designed as a dimensional frog perched upon a furling lily pad leaf Frog is made of carved lapis lazuli and measures 25.0 x 27.0 mm Opaque ultramarine blue in color with strong gold ...

Category

1950s Vintage Verdura Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Verdura Maltese Brooch Pendant 18Kt Gold With 31.1 Ctw In Diamonds & Tourmaline
Verdura Maltese Brooch Pendant 18Kt Gold With 31.1 Ctw In Diamonds & Tourmaline

Verdura Maltese Brooch Pendant 18Kt Gold With 31.1 Ctw In Diamonds & Tourmaline

By Verdura

Located in Miami, FL

Outstanding jeweled Pendant-Brooch designed by Verdura. An iconic vintage piece, designed in 1950 by Verdura as a stylized asymmetric eight pointed Maltese cross. It was individually assembled by pieces, crafted in solid 18 karats of high polished yellow gold and embellished with gemstones. Suited at the reverse with a hinged vertical double pins bars with a trombone lock. Can be wear as a pendant too. Prong set with a mix of 28 rounds and oval cuts gems, of natural green tourmaline, gradated from deep and light color variations,. They have a combined weight of about 30 carats. Accented, with 22 round brilliant cut diamonds, all prong set, with a total weight of 1.10 carats, F/G color, VS-2 clarity. This piece have a total weight of 54.1 grams and a measures of 58 mm by 58 mm (2.28 by 2.28 inches). Stamped with the maker's mark, serially numbered and signed, "VERDURA VC 1061". The Duke Fulco Di Verdura (1899-1978) start his career as a designer in Paris in 1920, Creating the iconic Maltese cross cuff bracelet for his friend Coco Chanel. In the 1934 he moved to the United States and closely collaborate with Paul Flato in California, designing jewelry for the Hollywood stars of the new movie era, including Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich. In the 1939, he moved again, but this time to the city of New York and open the Verdura boutique, in the Fifth Avenue location. in that period Verdura gain the estimation of the very high-profile clientele in the new York's high society. Literature: This exact model is published in the book, Verdura; The life and work of a master jeweler, Patricia Corbett, Thames and Hudson 2002, pp-85 illustrated. Note: The Maltese cross, is a cross symbol, consisting of four "V" or arrowhead shaped concave quadrilaterals converging at a central vertex at right angles, two tips pointing outward symmetrically. It is a heraldic cross variant which developed from earlier forms of eight-pointed crosses in the 16th century. Although chiefly associated with the Knights Hospitaller (Order of St. John, now the Sovereign Military Order of Malta...

Category

1950s American Modernist Vintage Verdura Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Tourmaline, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage 1970s Verdura Chalcedony and Amethyst Brooch
Vintage 1970s Verdura Chalcedony and Amethyst Brooch

Vintage 1970s Verdura Chalcedony and Amethyst Brooch

By Verdura

Located in New York, NY

Finely crafted in 18k yellow gold with a center Cabochon Chalcedony measuring 22 x 17 mm and four Cabochon Amethysts measuring 12 x 8 mm each. Signed by Verdura Circa 1970s 2 3/8 x 2...

Category

1970s Vintage Verdura Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Chalcedony, 18k Gold

Verdura Garnet and Diamond "Maltese Cross" Brooch
Verdura Garnet and Diamond "Maltese Cross" Brooch

Verdura Garnet and Diamond "Maltese Cross" Brooch

By Verdura

Located in New York, NY

Verdura garnet and diamond "maltese cross" brooch in 18k yellow gold. The brooch is set with 30 round and oval faceted cut garnets weighing total of approximately 25- 30ct, and 30 r...

Category

Late 20th Century Italian Artist Verdura Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, 18k Gold

Verdura 18K Yellow Gold & Platinum Parrot Brooch with Multigem Accents
Verdura 18K Yellow Gold & Platinum Parrot Brooch with Multigem Accents

Verdura 18K Yellow Gold & Platinum Parrot Brooch with Multigem Accents

By Verdura

Located in Great Neck Plaza, NY

A dazzling creation from the iconic house of Verdura, this vibrant parrot brooch is masterfully crafted in 18K yellow gold and platinum. The bird’s beak is set with vivid yellow diam...

Category

1990s Verdura Brooches

Materials

Citrine, White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Tourmaline, 18k Go...

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Chanel Vintage Gold Plated Medallion Coin Safety Pin Brooch
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Verdura Maltese Brooch Pendant 18Kt Gold With 31.1 Ctw In Diamonds & Tourmaline
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Outstanding jeweled Pendant-Brooch designed by Verdura. An iconic vintage piece, designed in 1950 by Verdura as a stylized asymmetric eight pointed Maltese cross. It was individually assembled by pieces, crafted in solid 18 karats of high polished yellow gold and embellished with gemstones. Suited at the reverse with a hinged vertical double pins bars with a trombone lock. Can be wear as a pendant too. Prong set with a mix of 28 rounds and oval cuts gems, of natural green tourmaline, gradated from deep and light color variations,. They have a combined weight of about 30 carats. Accented, with 22 round brilliant cut diamonds, all prong set, with a total weight of 1.10 carats, F/G color, VS-2 clarity. This piece have a total weight of 54.1 grams and a measures of 58 mm by 58 mm (2.28 by 2.28 inches). Stamped with the maker's mark, serially numbered and signed, "VERDURA VC 1061". The Duke Fulco Di Verdura (1899-1978) start his career as a designer in Paris in 1920, Creating the iconic Maltese cross cuff bracelet for his friend Coco Chanel. In the 1934 he moved to the United States and closely collaborate with Paul Flato in California, designing jewelry for the Hollywood stars of the new movie era, including Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich. In the 1939, he moved again, but this time to the city of New York and open the Verdura boutique, in the Fifth Avenue location. in that period Verdura gain the estimation of the very high-profile clientele in the new York's high society. Literature: This exact model is published in the book, Verdura; The life and work of a master jeweler, Patricia Corbett, Thames and Hudson 2002, pp-85 illustrated. Note: The Maltese cross, is a cross symbol, consisting of four "V" or arrowhead shaped concave quadrilaterals converging at a central vertex at right angles, two tips pointing outward symmetrically. It is a heraldic cross variant which developed from earlier forms of eight-pointed crosses in the 16th century. Although chiefly associated with the Knights Hospitaller (Order of St. John, now the Sovereign Military Order of Malta...

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Vintage 10 Karat Yellow Gold Seed Pearl and Diamond Brooch / Pin #4367
Vintage 10 Karat Yellow Gold Seed Pearl and Diamond Brooch / Pin #4367

Vintage 10 Karat Yellow Gold Seed Pearl and Diamond Brooch / Pin #4367

Located in Washington Depot, CT

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Vintage 18k White Gold Diamond Flower Brooch

Vintage 18k White Gold Diamond Flower Brooch

Located in Boston, MA

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Vintage 18K Gold Cartier Seahorse Brooch

By Cartier

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Vintage 5 Carat Diamond Samurai 18k Gold Brooch

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Located in Poitiers, FR

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Previously Available Items
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Verdura Diamond 'En Tremblant' Flower Brooch

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Located in Miami, FL

Pendant brooch designed by Verdura. This is a very rare and bold versatile pendant-brooch created in Milan Italy by the renowned jewelry house of Verdura, back in 1970. The piece is pretty large and has been crafted in the shape of six curved-arms Maltese cross in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with a finish of high polish and accented in the center with a platinum element for the settings of the diamonds. This center is mounted with an impeccable pave setting composed by natural white colorless diamonds. The brooch is fitted at the reverse with hinged double pins with a trombone security lock. This is a gorgeous piece masterfully crafted and surely will pop up to the wearer. Modeled after the Maltese crosses Fulco di Verdura first created for Chanel in the 1930s, this Ray brooch is one of the firm’s earliest and most popular designs. It quickly found favor with the era’s most stylish women including Millicent Rogers and Truman Capote’s Society Swans. The rich, golden rays center on a pavé-set diamond knot motif. Diamonds: The platinum parts are mounted in a pave setting, with 138 calibrated round brilliant cuts diamonds, with a total weight of about 9.66 carats, white colorless E/F color, VS-1 clarity. Weight: 75.30 Grams, (48.30 Dwt). Measurements: 70 mm by 72 mm by 15 mm (2.76 x 2.85 x 0.60 Inches). Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark, the mark for the assay and warranty of the 18kt gold and the platinum, the seven-digits inventory serial numbers and signed, "VERDURA .750 18KT PLAT VEC4598". Verdura The Duke Fulco di Verdura (1899-1978), start his career as a designer in Paris in 1920, Creating the iconic Maltese cross cuff bracelet for his friend Coco Chanel. In the 1934 he moved to the United States and closely collaborate with Paul Flato in California, designing jewelry for the Hollywood stars of the new movie era, including Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich. In 1939, he moved again, but this time to the city of New York and to open the Verdura boutique, in the Fifth Avenue location. in that period Verdura gains the estimation of the very high-profile clientele in the new York's high society. Collateral: This pendant-brooch is accompanied by the designer's presentation jewelry box. Condition: The overall condition of this Verdura pendant...

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Fulco Di Verdura Bone sculpture Man Riding Horse (attributed)
Fulco Di Verdura Bone sculpture Man Riding Horse (attributed)

Fulco Di Verdura Bone sculpture Man Riding Horse (attributed)

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Located in North Hollywood, CA

This amazing brooch is attributed to Fulco Di Verdura and it is truly special. This sculpture is carved bone with Peridot and Demantoid Garnets. This is a detailed piece of a warri...

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Verdura Gold Wishbone Money Clip

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Designer: Verdura Materials: 14K Yellow Gold Weight: 14.5 grams Measurement: 2" x 1 1/8" Hallmarks: Verdura, 14K A 14k gold Verdura money clip designed in the shape of a wishbone....

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Tanzanite Brooch by Verdura, 35.00 Carats
Tanzanite Brooch by Verdura, 35.00 Carats

Tanzanite Brooch by Verdura, 35.00 Carats

By Verdura

Located in New Orleans, LA

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By Verdura

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Verdura Diamond, Platinum and 18k Gold Wrapped Heart Brooch

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By Verdura

Located in New York City, NY

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Verdura 1909 $10 Indian Head US Coin Yellow Gold Pin Brooch
Verdura 1909 $10 Indian Head US Coin Yellow Gold Pin Brooch

Verdura 1909 $10 Indian Head US Coin Yellow Gold Pin Brooch

By Verdura

Located in Southampton, PA

18k Yellow Gold And 22k Yellow Gold 1909 $10 Indian Head US Coin Pin Brooch by Verdura. With United States Of America Ten Dollars 1909 Indian Head Coin Detail...

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Verdura Baguette and Round Diamonds Brooch / Pin 10 Carat TDW
Verdura Baguette and Round Diamonds Brooch / Pin 10 Carat TDW

Verdura Baguette and Round Diamonds Brooch / Pin 10 Carat TDW

By Verdura

Located in Manhasset, NY

A Spectacular Verdura Baguette and Round Diamond Brooch or Pin having 10 Carat TDW. A one of a kind platinum mount set with a total of approximat...

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Verdura Tiger Eye Diamond Yellow Gold Oak Leaf Brooch
Verdura Tiger Eye Diamond Yellow Gold Oak Leaf Brooch

Verdura Tiger Eye Diamond Yellow Gold Oak Leaf Brooch

By Verdura

Located in South Pasadena, CA

Verdura tiger eye and yellow gold oak leaf brooch circa 1980. Contact us right away if you have additional questions. We are here to connect you wi...

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Verdura brooches for sale on 1stDibs.

Find a range of Verdura brooches available on 1stDibs. Each of these unique items was designed with extraordinary care, often using gold. While looking for the most stylish antique or vintage Verdura jewelry to pair with your ensemble, you’ll find that Verdura diamond brooches, from our inventory of 5, can add a particularly distinctive touch to your look. We have 9 pieces in this collection as well as a number of other designs by this jeweler. While this collection reflects work that originated over various time periods, most of these items were designed during the 20th century. If you’re looking for additional options, many customers also consider brooches by Frascarolo, Sabbadini, and Margherita Burgener. Prices for Verdura brooches can differ depending upon gemstone, time period and other attributes. On 1stDibs, the price for these items starts at $3,550 and tops out at $32,000, while pieces like these, on average, can sell for $21,180.