Rare Mughal Navratna Bazuband — Pearl & Gem-Set Gold Enamelled Armlet, North India 19th C — Christie's 2016 & Saffronart 2014
A rare and important Mughal bazuband (upper armband) of exceptional gemological, iconographic and institutional significance, North India (Lucknow school), late 18th/early 19th century.
The Navratna
The rectangular plaque centres upon a flowerhead white sapphire surrounded by petals on a deep green enamel ground, itself surrounded by eleven gemstones in the manner of the sacred Navratna — the Nine Gems of Hindu cosmology, each associated with a celestial body and believed to confer talismanic protection and auspicious energy upon the wearer. The stones include pearl, turquoise, coral, citrine, garnet, blue sapphire, moonstone, amethyst and diamond — an extraordinary concentration of sacred symbolism in a single jewel. The thin blue enamel border frames the composition with characteristic Lucknow refinement.
The Reverse
The verso displays outstanding Meenakari polychrome enamel of the finest quality: flowers and petals in red and blue against a white ground, with green champlevé enamel — a level of craftsmanship consistent with the royal workshops of North India.
The Mounts
The rectangular plaque is fitted with hinged attachments on either side, set with additional gemstones, allowing the piece to function as a bazuband (upper armband) with cord or chain suspension.
Provenance & Exhibition History
Exhibited as Lot 6: "A Gemset Bajuband or Arm Ornament", Exhibition of Jewels, Objects of Vertu and Indian Works of Art, Saffronart, Mumbai and Delhi, 2014
Sold at Christie's, London, Arts & Textiles of the Islamic & Indian Worlds, Sale 12283, Lot 319, 21 October 2016. Estimate: £5,000–7,000
Published: Seligman, T.K. and Balakrishnan, U.R. Enduring Splendor — Jewelry of India...
Category
Indian Artisan Antique 19th Century Cuff Bracelets
MaterialsMulti-gemstone, 22k Gold