Rare Etruscan Revival 18K Gold Locket Necklace attr. Eugene Fontenay, Paris 1870
By Eugene Fontenay
Located in New York, NY
Large, stunning granulated antique French Etruscan Revival locket with the original, equally spectacular large chain. The oval locket exquisitely decorated with a technique known as granulation, where a tiny gold bead is individually applied to a surface to form a geometric pattern. Done entirely by hand and requiring a master goldsmith, this technique is thought to have originated in Sumer approximately 5000 years ago. The Etruscans mastered the process in the first millennium B.C and closely guarded its secret, becoming celebrated for creating some of the most beautiful and technically advanced gold jewelry ever made.
Condition: This piece is in very good condition retaining the original interior crystal, the hinges work very well and are precisely calibrated to stay open in place when desired. The back of the locket shows normal wear with just the slightest waviness. The chain is in excellent condition.
Composed as a pendant locket on its original chain, the oval gold links reeded on the interior and applied chain link on the exterior, the oval locket decorated with twisted wirework circles and fine applied granulation patterns, suspended from a long bale with quatrefoil granulation. Hinged on the side, opening to reveal a hinged glass panel for a personal memento.
French assay mark and maker's mark partially obscured
Confident attribution to Fontenay based on partial hallmark and similar published examples.
References: Wartski for gold enamelled locket on chain necklace, sold archives; DSF for gold enamelled locket pendant of similar workmanship and design. Fontenay pieces retaining the original chain which may be worn on its own are rare and desirable.
Eugene Fontenay...
Category
19th Century Etruscan Revival Antique French Chain Necklaces
Materials18k Gold, Yellow Gold
