Victor Mayer Calima

Renowned for intricate and sophisticated jewelry, the Victor Mayer company has created personal adornments of the highest quality for over a century. Using complex guilloche and enamel techniques, the German manufacturer is known for its hoop earrings, pendants and cufflinks, while its authentic Victor Mayer Fabergé egg pendants, featuring delicate embellishments and exquisite enameling, have been especially popular with generations of connoisseurs.

Aftering studying at the Grand Ducal School of Arts and Crafts in Weimar, Germany, and training for three years in Vienna, Victor Mayer opened his jewelry business in 1890, in Pforzheim, Germany. His craftsmanship rapidly gained renown across Europe.

Ever mindful of evolving tastes, the company underwent three major style changes in Mayer’s lifetime, beginning with a focus on the Belle Époque of the late 19th century. It later adapted when Mayer saw that Art Nouveau was taking off around the world. The company remained operational during the first World War, and then once again adjusted its style to match the rising influence of Art Deco. 

World War II shut down the Victor Mayer company, as jewelry was considered a non-essential wartime industry. After the war ended, the company slowly reopened and experienced a slight uptick in business. 

Mayer died in 1946. His son, Oscar, and businessman Edmund Mohr managed the company together until the 1960s. Under Mohr and Mayer, it became a leader in producing fine accessories for gentlemen, while continuing to create jewelry for women.

In the 1960s, Mayer’s son, Hubert, and Mohr’s son, Herbert, succeeded their fathers. The duo steered the company in a new — but classic — creative direction. While in art school, Mohr had absorbed all he could regarding the artistic patronage of the Tsars. In the 1980s, he designed the company’s Esprit de Fabergé collection, which was modeled after the exuberant style of the master Fabergé crafters.

In 1989, the long-dormant House of Fabergé appointed the Victor Mayer company to be its workmaster until 2009. During this time, the company not only grew its customer base throughout Europe, Southeast Asia and North America, it revived the Fabergé jewelry line.

In 2005, Mohr retired, and his son, Marcus, took over the company’s management. Under his leadership, the Victor Mayer jewelry company continues to thrive and produce incomparable works of timeless elegance.

Find antique and vintage Victor Mayer necklaces, rings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs. 

Contemporary jewelry is inextricably linked with the moment in which it is created, frequently reflecting current social, cultural and political issues such as environmental consciousness, identity and sustainability. It’s informed by fashion trends, from the chokers of the 1990s to the large chain necklaces of the early 2000s.

Jewelry is one of the oldest forms of adornment. Lockets made of silver or gold have been treasured gifts for hundreds of years, for example, and charm bracelets, which have existed since prehistoric times, didn’t become especially popular until the 19th-century reign of Queen Victoria. For many centuries, fine jewelry was used primarily to express wealth or status through lavish materials. Then, in the 1960s, a concept known as the “critique of preciousness” emerged, with jewelers creating pieces that did not get their value from gemstones or precious metals. Instead, it was the jeweler’s artistic vision that was prized and elevated.

This shift still informs Contemporary jewelry being made by artists today. Whether they are using cheap, found materials and working with provocative geometric shapes or seeking out the rarest stones, they are imbuing their work with meaning through their skills, techniques and ideas. Innovative designers such as Elsa Peretti, who popularized sculptural sterling-silver jewelry for Tiffany & Co., and David Yurman, who twisted metal into the simple yet striking Cable bracelet, have also influenced the direction of Contemporary jewelry’s forms and aesthetics.

Meanwhile, technological advancements like metal alloys and laser engraving have led to new possibilities in jewelry design. Now, edgy makers and brands as well as minimalist designers are pushing Contemporary jewelry forward into the 21st century.

Find a collection of Contemporary rings, earrings, necklaces and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Antique diamond rings, diamond tiaras and dazzling vintage diamond earrings are on the wish lists of every lover of fine jewelry. And diamonds and diamond jewelry are primarily associated with storybook engagements and red-carpet grand entrances — indeed, this ultra-cherished gemstone has a dramatic history on its hands.

From “A Diamond Is Forever” to “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend,” pop culture has ingrained in our minds that diamonds are the most desired, the most lasting and the most valuable gemstone. But what makes the diamond so special? Each stone — whether it’s rubies, sapphires or another stone — is unique and important in its own right. April babies might claim diamonds for themselves, but just about everyone wants this kind of sparkle in their lives!

There are several factors that set diamonds apart from other stones, and these points are important to our gem education.

Diamonds are minerals. They are made up of almost entirely of carbon (carbon comprises 99.95 percent; the remainder consists of various trace elements). Diamonds are the hardest gemstones, ranking number 10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale. Even its name, diamond, is rooted in the Greek adamas, or unconquerable. The only object that can scratch a diamond is another diamond. Diamonds are formed deep within the earth at very high temperatures (1,652–2,372 degrees Fahrenheit at depths between 90 and 120 miles beneath the earth’s surface) and are carried up by volcanic activity. Diamonds are quite rare, according to the Gemological Institute of America, and only 30 percent of all the diamonds mined in the world are gem quality.

In the 1950s, the Gemological Institute of America developed the 4Cs grading system to classify diamonds: clarity, color, cut and carat weight. Not all diamonds are created equal (there are diamonds, and then there are diamonds). The value of the diamond depends on the clarity (flawless diamonds are very rare but a diamond's value decreases if there are many blemishes or inclusions), color (the less color the higher the grade), cut (how the diamond’s facets catch the light, certain cuts of diamonds show off the stone better than others) and carat weight (the bigger, the better).

When you start shopping for a diamond engagement ring, always prioritize the cut, which plays the largest role in the diamond's beauty (taking the time to clean your diamond ring at least every six months or so plays a role in maintaining said beauty). And on 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings. 

Shop antique and vintage diamond rings, diamond necklaces and other extraordinary diamond jewelry on 1stDibs.