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Buccellati

Italian

In 1919, Mario Buccellati (1891–1965) launched his eponymous jewelry house with the opening of his first shop in Milan and quickly built a reputation for his richly embellished traforato, or finely pierced goldwork. The Ancona, Italy–born jeweler’s workmanship was in a class of its own. His pieces were exquisite, yet the gemstones themselves were never too flashy, elevated instead by the designs’ intricate metalsmithing.

A love of tradition set Mario and his fine jewelry house apart in the competitive Italian market and remains a point of pride for the family, which is still closely tied to the business even as it is now owned by Richemont, a luxury conglomerate that also counts Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels among its subsidiaries.

A young Mario Buccellati apprenticed with famed goldsmith Beltrami e Besnati in the early 1900s, although many of the goldsmithing techniques synonymous with Buccellati go as far back as the Italian Renaissance. The family lineage is also said to include 18th-century jeweler Contardo Buccellati.

Owing to the founder’s advanced metalworking skills, the brand is known for designs that feature metal with the delicacy of lace and draw on the wonders of the natural world. The house’s work is typified by intricate gemstone settings that emphasize their natural color and dense engraving techniques that transform the texture of gold.

One of the time-honored engraving techniques that has come to characterize Buccellati’s work — techniques that require apprenticeships and training in the fine jeweler’s workshops — is called rigato. It involves the engraving of a precious metal with a series of parallel lines to achieve a fabric-like effect.

Rigato is on luminous display in the house’s Macri collection of earrings, cuff bracelets and other accessories. A painstaking attention to detail is pronounced in the celebrated Macri, Bartolomeo and Unica collections — witness the striking honeycomb motif, a house signature, that characterizes the Unica collection’s Caterina bracelet, for example.

The Macri collection was the work of Mario’s son, Gianmaria Buccellati, an award-winning jeweler and internationally renowned silversmith who worked to bring the brand to the global stage by overseeing the opening of boutiques in Tokyo, Paris, California and elsewhere.

In 1951, Mario opened his first store in New York City; today the company operates boutiques worldwide. In 2019, the company celebrated its centennial with a new flagship in Paris and the Vintage collection, which features some of its most enduring designs.

On 1stDibs, find a collection of authentic Buccellati jewelry, including earrings, necklaces, rings and other accessories.

Average Sold Price
$7,091
Styles
Related Creators
Buccelatti Vintage Leaf Dome Triple Strand Clasp YellowGold 18k for Pearls/Beads
By Buccellati
Located in Greensboro, NC
Brand: Buccelatti Era: Vintage Metal Content: 18k Yellow Gold & 18k White Gold Style: Triple Strand Clasp Theme: Leaf Dome, Botanical Features: S...
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Buccellati

Buccellati 18K White Yellow Gold Cufflinks 3 Studs Set
By Buccellati
Located in Bellmore, NY
Introducing a fusion of opulence and sophistication, the Buccellati 18K White Gold Cufflinks and 3 Studs Set adorned with 18K Yellow Gold Inlay Design redefine luxury in men's access...
Category

Late 20th Century Buccellati

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Buccellati Audachron Men's Wristwatch 5211 - White Gold 18k Auto 1 Year Warranty
By Buccellati
Located in Greensboro, NC
Brand: Buccellati Model: Audachron Model Number: 5211 Movement: Automatic Warranty: One Year Movement Maker: Swiss Metal Content: 18k White Gold Material Information Genuine Alliga...
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Buccellati

Materials

18k Gold, White Gold

Buccellati 18k Gold Rete Pearl Chandelier Earrings
By Buccellati
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Buccellati Rete pearl chandelier earrings, each earring showcasing twelve cultured Biwa pearls suspended within a hand-textured 18k yellow and white gold lattice. Clip backs with po...
Category

2010s Italian Buccellati

Materials

Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Buccellati Citrine Two Tone Gold Bangle Bracelet
By Buccellati
Located in New York, NY
Buccellati Large Citrine Two Tone Gold Bangle Bracelet 1 large oval cut citrine set in 18 karat white and yellow gold satin finish. Citrine We...
Category

1980s Italian Vintage Buccellati

Materials

Citrine, 18k Gold

Buccellati Blossoms Diamond Gardenia Button Earrings, 2.5cm
By Buccellati
Located in Carmel By The Sea, CA
Vermeil button earrings in burnished silver and ruthenium with brown diamonds. Gardenia, Diameter: 2.5cm Style: JAGEAR016608 Features: Buccellati Blossoms Diamond Ruthenium-Plated ...
Category

2010s Italian Buccellati

Materials

Sterling Silver

Mario Buccellati 1950's 18K Gold Silver Brunito Fruit Vintage Eternity Band Ring
By Buccellati
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a yellow gold band centering carved renderings of fruit and foliate Comprised of silver oranges, pears, grapes, and leaves fully around Deeply grooved with oxidized deta...
Category

1950s Vintage Buccellati

Materials

Silver

Buccellati Rare Art Deco Dionysus 18 KT Ring
By Buccellati
Located in Napoli, IT
This outstanding rare example of Buccellati ring is Art Deco period,1925 circa Artistically hand crafted like a sculpture featuring Dionysus in a low profile on the finger Signed Buc...
Category

1920s Italian Art Deco Vintage Buccellati

Materials

18k Gold

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More Buccellati Designs
Tulipa Brooch
Tulipa Brooch
Average Price
$17,500
Number Available
1
Tulipa Brooch
By Buccellati
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Buccellati jewelry & watches for sale on 1stDibs.

Find a range of Buccellati jewelry & watches available on 1stDibs. Each of these unique items was designed with extraordinary care, often using gold. While looking for the most stylish antique or vintage Buccellati jewelry to pair with your ensemble, you’ll find that Buccellati diamond jewelry & watches, from our inventory of 129, can add a particularly distinctive touch to your look. We have 296 pieces in this collection as well as a number of other designs by this jeweler. While this collection reflects work that originated over various time periods, most of these items were designed during the 20th century. If you’re looking for additional options, many customers also consider jewelry & watches by Mattioli, Cellini, and FANCS V by Simona Elia. Prices for Buccellati jewelry & watches can differ depending upon gemstone, time period and other attributes. On 1stDibs, the price for these items starts at $950 and tops out at $220,000, while pieces like these, on average, can sell for $11,500.
Questions About Buccellati
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Buccellati is a high-end jewelry maker, recognizable by its lavish textural designs and innate Italian motifs. Mario Buccellati himself was regarded as ‘The Prince of Goldsmith’, a high-honor in Italian precious metalwork. On 1stDibs, find a collection of authentic Buccellati pieces from some of the world’s top sellers.

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