What defines “fine” jewelry? For many aficionados, there’s a clear line separating the golden wheat from the gilded chaff. But the handcrafted pieces made by Ciner, a 128-year-old costume jewelry house with a glittering past to rival some of the hautest high jewelers, call into question our notions of what constitutes preciousness.
Quality? Craftsmanship? Painstaking detail? Vintage Ciner earrings, brooches, necklaces and other accessories have them all in spades.
Much of the Ciner’s allure can be traced to its origins in fine jewelry. Emanuel Ciner, an Austrian immigrant, founded the firm in Manhattan in 1892, crafting pieces from the traditional precious gems, gold and platinum. But World War I and the Great Depression caused purse strings to tighten and materials to become scarce. Rather than try to weather the economic downturn, which shuttered many other American jewelers, Ciner made the risky transition from fine jewelry to costume (or fashion) jewelry — virtually uncharted territory.
Emanuel Ciner’s sons, Irwin and Charles, introduced an array of innovations — rubber casting molds, which are especially durable and produce higher quality results, and white metal alloys, which affordably mimic the look of more precious materials — that would become the standard for costume jewelry. During World War II, Ciner’s advanced molding technology was utilized by the U.S. military to produce munitions and tools. This arrangement gave the firm access to the heavily rationed metals it needed for its jewels, enabling it again to endure conditions that drove others into bankruptcy.
The company hit its stride in the 1960s, when its jewelry was sold at some of the country’s toniest stores, even garnering an Andy Warhol–illustrated ad for Bonwit Teller. Its pieces were worn by the era’s brightest stars. In the famous 1957 Joe Shere photo of Sophia Loren sneering at Jayne Mansfield’s décolletage, Mansfield is resplendent in shoulder-grazing Ciner earrings.
Ciner is unique among costume jewelers in that its pieces aren’t imitations — they are coveted in their own right. Elizabeth Taylor, a voracious jewelry collector with a taste for the very finest, was a longtime client. Several suites of Ciner jewels were included in the 2011 Christie’s sale of Taylor’s collection, with one group of rhinestone-studded ear clips and a bracelet fetching $15,600 — more than 100 times the auction estimate. It’s a reminder of a time, not so long ago, when women of great style wore fine and costume jewelry with equal aplomb, often at the same time.
Today, Ciner — now run by Emanuel Ciner’s granddaughter Pat Ciner Hill and great-granddaughter Jean Hill — continues to adhere to the same exacting production specifications. It is the only jewelry house in New York, and likely the United States, that manufactures all its pieces entirely in-house. Each begins with dozens of elements that are cast in rubber molds and then individually filed and polished, plated in a particularly thick layer of 18-karat gold or rhodium, assembled on the bench and painted with enamel or set with stones. Every step is performed by hand by craftsmen, many of whom have been with the company for more than 30 years.
Find vintage Ciner clip-on earrings, choker necklaces, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Vintage Ciner Sapphire Blue Glass Torsade Necklace with Crystal Rhinestone Clasp
By Ciner
Located in Hyattsville, MD
This elegant vintage Ciner torsade necklace features multiple strands of richly hued sapphire-blue glass beads, intricately twisted to create a full, fluid silhouette. The beads disp...
Crystal
Ciner Tahitian, Baroque Pearl, Angel Skin, Orange Coral, Carnelian Necklace
By Ciner
Located in Milford, DE
A multi-strand, knotted-string, beaded necklace. Features an assortment of genuine and faux beads that all come together into a sophisticated, twisted-strand art piece! Features a fa...
Carnelian, Coral, Pearl, Gold Plate
Ciner Gold-Plated 6-Strand Beaded Necklace With Lion Head Motif
By Ciner
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Introducing the Ciner Gold-Plated 6-Strand Beaded Necklace with Lion Head Motif, a striking statement piece that exudes confidence and glamour. Crafted with long, narrow beads that a...
Ciner Swarovski Crystal Double Beaded Giraffe Necklace, New Never worn 1980s
By Ciner
Located in Wallkill, NY
New, never worn giraffe double strand Ciner Necklace Amber colored, wood and black beading with Black and brown enamel work. Measures 42 inches end to end. It is doubled on the disp...
Gilt Metal
Ciner Crystal Double Strand Zebra Necklace Goldtone 1980s
By Ciner
Located in Wallkill, NY
Stunning Ciner Double Strand Cream pearl necklace. Clasp is a enameled Zebra with Swarovski Crystals. Wonderful Green Cabochons eyes. Measuring 4...
Crystal, Gilt Metal
Ciner Ombre Multi strand Bead Necklace 1980s New, Never Worn
By Ciner
Located in Wallkill, NY
5 Strand Ombre Ciner Necklace. Purchased in the late 1980s and never worn. It has stunnignAmber, yellow to clear on the faceted beads. Measuring 19 inches end to end. Beads measure ...
Ciner Swarovski crystal Beaded 6 strand Necklace, 1980s New Never worn
By Ciner
Located in Wallkill, NY
This is stunning in person, faceted crystal, glass and stone beading make up this 6 strand Ciner New old stock necklace. Measures 19 inches end to end. Visit our store front for hundreds of designer costume jewelry...
Angela Caputi Purple Resin Multi-Row Choker Necklace
By Angela Caputi
Located in Atlanta, GA
This stunning Angela Caputi, made-in-Italy, acrylic resin choker necklace features an important multi-strand design with a lovely pearlized purple color contrasted with pearl-like be...
Unavailable|$1,640
Chanel Vintage Gold Chain and Pearl Double Strand Long Necklace
By Chanel
Located in Bellevue, WA
DETAILS: Hallmark: CHANEL Made in France Gold Plated The necklace is in good condition showing minimal wear Measurements approx.: Length: 36” Comes with box IMPORTANT INFORMATION: T...
Gold
Victorian 23.40 Carat Moonstone Yellow Gold Necklace
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning antique Victorian 23.40 carat moonstone and 12 karat yellow gold collar length necklace; part of our diverse antique jewelry collections. This stunning, fine and impressive Victorian moonstone necklace has been crafted in 12k yellow gold. The necklace displays a feature two-tiered drop to the center of the arrangement; the central tier ornamented with two bezel set round cabochon cut moonstones and the lower tier tapering to a single oval cabochon cut moonstone terminal. The central drop is flanked on either side by a total of six bezel set oval cabochon cut moonstones drops, dispersed evenly. The moonstone drops suspend from a 15.5" belcher chain, crafted in 12k yellow gold. The chain secures with a conventional spring loaded bolt ring fastening to the reverse. This antique Victorian collarette has been independently tested using state of the art technology (Niton XL2 Analyzer) and verified as 12k gold. The necklace is supplied with an independent diamond grading report card. Images do not always reflect the true color and brilliance of gemstones and diamonds. The video however provides a truer representation of the actual color and showcases each stone. Condition This stunning antique 1880s necklace...
Moonstone, Yellow Gold
Yves Saint Laurent YSL Vintage Rare Pate de Verre Multi Strand Necklace
By Yves Saint Laurent
Located in Nice, FR
YVES SAINT LAURENT vintage rare multi strand beaded necklace featuring multicolored pate de verre, mirrored and gold toned charms. This is an early YVES SAINT LAURENT piece of costu...
French Art Deco Lariat Necklace
Located in New York, NY
Long French Art Deco 1920s Lariat composed of multi strand, braided twists of opaque faux jade and pearl micro seed beads. Beautifully crafted with hand blown glass faux pearl and c...
Gilt Metal
$380Sale Price|20% Off
L 18.5 in
Vintage Pearl and Quartz Multi Strand Collar Necklace on Silver Toggle Clasp
Located in Milford, DE
This lavish collar necklace features strands of genuine pearls and clear quartz crystals. Sterling silver-tone toggle clasp. Late 1900s.
Pearl, Quartz
$20,000Sale Price|62% Off
Rare Fancy 18 Karat Gold Gorgeous Double 2 Strand Large Diamond Necklace
Located in New York, NY
The Following Item we are offering is this Rare Important Radiant 18KT Gold Gorgeous Glittering and Sparkling Magnificent Fancy Double Strand Diamond Necklace. Necklace contains appr...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold
Vintage Trifari Pearl Torsade Necklace 1980s
By Trifari
Located in Wilmslow, GB
A Vintage Trifari Pearl Shell Collar. A gorgeous clam design clasp finishes rows of pearls strung in a torsade style. Eternal elegance with a playful twist. Trifari are undoubtedly A...
Philippe Ferrandis Multi Strand Glass Bib Necklace
By Philippe Ferrandis
Located in Nice, FR
PHILIPPE FERRANDIS antique patina finish bib necklace, featuring three glass bead strands. Necklace features seven metal charms, some perforated and some others with oval shaped gl...
Christian Dior Coral Torsade Necklace
By Christian Dior
Located in New York, NY
Christian Dior faux coral pate de verre long torsade necklace. Consisting of eight strands of the pale orange coral glass beads with double clasp of ...
Gold Plate, Bronze, Gilt Metal
Maison Gripoix for Chanel Moughal Multi Strand Necklace
By Maison Gripoix for Chanel
Located in New York, NY
Maison Gripoix for Chanel multi strand necklace with matching poured glass clasp with faux pearl , amythest, jade.emerald ,and rose quartz pate de verre handmade beads. France 193...
Gold Plate, Bronze, Enamel, Gilt Metal
Unavailable|$1,500
Chanel Gold Black Metallic Snake Chain Multi Strand Long Necklace
By Chanel
Located in Bellevue, WA
DETAILS: Hallmark: CHANEL Made in Italy 2011 Collection The necklace is in good condition showing minimal wear Measurements approx.: Chain Length 27" Comes with box IMPORTANT INFORM...
1980's Ciner Double Faux Pearl Necklace & Matching Zebra Enamel Bracelet
By Ciner
Located in Toronto, Ontario
Stunning set of 1980's Ciner iconic enamel and faux pearl necklace and matching hard cuff bracelet. The zebra and rhinestone clasp, almost 4" long, with green cabochon eyes on the do...
Enamel, Gilt Metal
Ciner Torsade Necklace with Lion Head Clasp
By Ciner
Located in New York, NY
Beautiful Ciner tornado necklace from the 1980s. The necklace has six strands of 5 mm faux amber glass beads and a Lion head and ring clasp. The clasp is black enamel, gold plate and...
Gold Plate, Base Metal, Enamel
Ciner swarovski Necklace Crystal Double Strand Black Horse Gold 1980s
By Ciner
Located in Wallkill, NY
Ciner Double Beaded strand Necklace. Enameled Black horse head with green cabochon eyes swarovski crystals. Matte clear beading. 39 inches long end to end..Beads are 10.16 mm. This i...
Crystal, Gilt Metal, Gold
Ciner swarovski Frog 10 Strand Bib Necklace 1980s New Old Stock
By Ciner
Located in Wallkill, NY
Ciner Encrusted Swarovski crystals set around the frogs eyes and the circle holding them Slide in clasp Glass beads New old stock measuring 18" end to end Ciner tag still a...