Forever credited with having altered the fashion world with her pleated silk dresses, Madame Grès was one of the greatest couturiers of the 20th century. She defied the orders of Nazi soldiers and designed gowns and evening dresses that mirrored the colors and pattern of the French flag, working by hand with material that hung directly from live models. A consummate artist, Grès created garments that were demonstrative of exemplary construction and meticulous attention to detail — her signature floor-length gowns left a lasting impact on every aspect of haute couture.
Born Germaine Émilie Krebs to a French Jewish family in Paris, Grès initially studied painting and sculpture. For her, making dresses and working in sculpture were one and the same, and she pursued a career in fashion. Grès worked in millinery and was trained in haute couture dressmaking at the illustrious House of Prémet.
Grès opened her inaugural couture fashion house in 1932, and within a couple of years she began working under the name Alix Barton — the surname came from her coworker, couturier Julie Barton — calling her business La Maison Alix and creating gowns until 1942 in what became her signature style. She perfected modern pleating techniques and worked directly on live models, mostly with generous amounts of silk jersey and airy silk paper taffeta. Her designs showed the influence of Greco-Roman sculpture and would go on to help shape the work of Jean-Paul Gaultier, Jil Sander and Azzedine Alaïa, who also thought of haute couture as sculpture.
Grès’s work was photographed by the likes of Horst P. Horst, and her gowns for Jean Giraudaux’s play The Trojan War Will Not Take Place in 1935 established her as a leading designer, though Nazi occupation stalled her growth.
During WWII, Grès refused to design the utilitarian garb that German forces requested and instead made clothes using the colors of the French flag as her own act of rebellion. Ultimately, she was forced to close her boutique in Paris. The designer married Russian painter Serge Czerefkov, changed her name to Grès — which is how her husband signed his name — and fled to the Pyrenees before returning to establish her second couture house under her new name.
Madame Grès’s second maison was widely successful and attracted a long list of rich and powerful clientele ranging from movie stars to royalty. A single dress could take hundreds of hours to complete. Some of the couturier’s clients became deeply loyal over the course of her career, including the Duchess of Windsor, Oscar-winning actresses Grace Kelly and Greta Garbo, iconic Tiffany & Co. jewelry designer Paloma Picasso and former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. Grès guarded her personal life closely and let her delicate, impeccable work speak for itself.
Original Madame Grès evening dresses and gowns, coats, jackets and day dresses, which transformed women into Greek deities, are held in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum at FIT and the Musée Bourdelle.
“Her dresses were about a sense of power, strength and beauty, not objectification,” explains Patricia Mears, deputy director of the Museum at FIT and author of Madame Grès: Sphinx of Fashion. “Everyone knows Chanel, Dior and Saint Laurent,” Mears says, “but I believe that the great triumvirate was Madeleine Vionnet, Balenciaga and Madame Grès — those who knew how to make clothes with their own hands, couturiers in the old sense of the word.”
Find vintage Madame Grès clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
Madame Grès pair of bracelets 'rams'
By Madame Gres
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
GRÈS - (Made in France) Set of silvery metal 'rams' opening bracelets, Madame Grès by Robert Goossens, circa 1960. Not signed. Bibliography: Similar pattern on « Costume Jewelry for...
Madame Gres Paris Silvered Link Bracelet with Frosted Glass Cabochons
By Madame Gres
Located in Atlanta, GA
Madame Gres Paris designed this beautiful link bracelet in the 1980s. The piece features a modernist geometric design with silvered metal elements frames topped with opalescent, fros...
Silver Plate
Toggle Link Bracelet 24 Grams 14 Karat Yellow Gold Ruby Clasp
By Harbor Diamonds
Located in New York, NY
Toggle link bracelet weighing 24.04 grams in 14 Karat Yellow Gold. Great for layering or wearing alone. More link bracelets available Search Harbor Diamonds
Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage Retro Style Tank Link Bracelet 14 Karat Yellow Gold 69.3 Grams
By Harbor Diamonds
Located in New York, NY
Retro style bracelet featuring 5 rows of a tank motif weighing 69.3 grams in 14 Karat Yellow Gold. Great looking bracelet!
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$1,463Sale Price / item|24% Off
14K Yellow Gold 0.16CT Diamond PAPER CLIP Link Bracelet
By Gregory Mikaelian & Sons, Inc.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Specifications: main stone:ROUND DIAMONDS diamonds:1 PC carat total weight:approximately 0.16 CT color:f clarity:SI brand:CUSTOM MADE metal:14K YELLOW gol...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Ciner 1960s Vintage Sapphire Oval Crystals Clear Flower Circle Cabochon 2 Set
By Ciner
Located in Wokingham, England
Ciner 1960s Vintage Sapphire Navy Blue Oval Whole Crystals Clear Flower Circle Beads Cabochon Charms Link Elegant 2 Set Clip Drop Earrings Bracelet, Silver Tone Very good condition....
Silver Plate
Vintage Aquamarine Diamond Onyx Mauboussin Earrings Necklace Bracelet Suite
By Mauboussin
Located in Dallas, TX
Exceptional one-of-a-kind aquamarine diamond and black onyx suite attributed to Mauboussin Paris and set in 18 karat yellow gold. This impressive suite consists of a necklace, bracelet, and earrings and is a vintage creation dating to 1980s. It is emblematic of the bold French high-jewelry glamour of that era. Large aquamarines highlight each individual piece in the suite and feature an ever-elegant emerald-step-cut. The aquamarines display a rich and lively blue color that lights up beautifully as the pieces are worn. They are also characterized by very fine clarity. Vivid aquamarine gemstones float on top of oval 18 karat yellow gold base which is masterfully inlaid with black onyx and encrusted with sparkling fine white diamonds. The necklace and bracelet also feature elegant large oval gold links, surface of which is embellished with decorative ridges, and diamond set short links joining them. Diamonds total approximately 10.5 carats altogether. The juxtaposition of vivid blue aquamarines against elegant black onyx and sumptuous frames of glittering diamonds and luminous yellow gold setting create an incredibly sophisticated and chic statement jewelry. The pieces are in excellent condition and bear French hallmarks of the period including a maker’s mark for Péry & Fils which was one of the main jewelry makers for Mauboussin Paris. For further details please see summary below as well as individual listings for each of these pieces in our 1stdibs store. Suite pricing offers an attractive discount compared to buying each of the pieces individually. Summary: - Vintage suite dating to 1980s masterfully combines large blue aquamarines, elegant black onyx, white diamonds and 18 karate yellow gold into a bold and chic design that makes for high-statement jewelry - Featuring large vivid blue aquamarines of emerald-step-cut and of very fine clarity. Aquamarines altogether weigh an impressive 76 carats (24 carats for the necklace/ 30 carats for the bracelet / 11 carats for each of the earrings) - Featuring altogether approximately 10.5 carats of fine white round diamonds (F-G color) - Necklace measures approximately 16.5 inches (42cm) in length and its center pendant is approximately 1.2 by 1 inch (3cm by 2.6cm); bracelet measures approximately 6.9 inches (17.5cm) in length and its center section is approximately 1.25 by 1 inch (3.2cm by 2.5cm); clip-on earrings (posts for pierced ears can be added) measure 1in (2.5cm) in length and width - Attributed to Mauboussin Paris and with French hallmarks of the period including maker’s mark for Péry & Fils (well know Mauboussin jewelry...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Sterling Silver Christmas Icons Link Bracelet 8" - 925 Tree Santa Reindeer
Located in Greensboro, NC
Metal Content: Sterling Silver Bracelet Style: Link Fastening Type: Lobster Claw Clasp Theme: Christmas Icons, Tree Santa Reindeer Features: Textured Detailing Measurements Chain ...
Sterling Silver
Sterling Silver Oval Dot Link Bracelet 7 3/4" - 925
Located in Greensboro, NC
Metal Content: Sterling Silver Bracelet Style: Link Fastening Type: Hook Clasp Measurements Length: 7 3/4" Front Width: 15/32" (11.3mm) Chain Width: 15/32" (11.3mm) Width at Statio...
Sterling Silver
Tiffany & Co. Paloma Picasso Olive Leaf Heart Charm 8mm Pearl Bracelet 7.75"
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Northbrook, IL
Elevate your collection with this Tiffany & Co. Paloma Picasso Olive Leaf heart charm pearl bracelet. Featuring lustrous white cultured pearls, it exudes elegance and sophisticat...
Pearl
Flat Oval Chain Link Bracelet 14 Karat Yellow Gold 18.1 Grams
By Harbor Diamonds
Located in New York, NY
14 Karat yellow gold bracelet featuring 15 oval shape links weighing 18.05 grams. 7" Long Box clasp More link bracelets in stock.
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Hand-Crafted 14K Gold 0.40 ct. tw. Open Link ID Bar Bracelet
By I. Reiss
Located in Great Neck, NY
14 Karat Yellow Gold Hand-Crafted Polish-Finished 7" Paper-Clip Open Link ID Bar Bracelet, Enhanced with 0.40 Carats of Pave Set Diamonds. Lobster Claw Clasp.
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$1,297
Chanel bracelet 1990s
By Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
CHANEL - (Made in France) Golden metal bracelet, chain links centered with openwork flowers. A 2cc9 Collection from the early 1990s under the artistic direction of Karl Lagerfeld. C...
Gilt Metal
$11,235
W 0.37 in L 7.5 in
Vintage 18 Karat Yellow Gold Infinity Link Diamond Bracelet 2 CTS G VS2 24 Grams
By Harbor Diamonds
Located in New York, NY
Make an elegant statement with this luxurious infinity link diamond bracelet, crafted in solid 18K yellow gold and meticulously set with 140 brilliant-cut diamonds. The graceful infi...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Madame Gres Paris Clip Earrings Green Poured Glass Leaves
By Madame Gres
Located in Atlanta, GA
Very chic Madame Gres Paris clip-on earrings. Romantic floral design with dangling shape featuring emerald green poured glass paste leaves compliment...
Gilt Metal