Forever credited with having altered the fashion world with her pleated silk dresses, Madame Grès was one of the greatest couturiers of the 20th century. She defied the orders of Nazi soldiers and designed gowns and evening dresses that mirrored the colors and pattern of the French flag, working by hand with material that hung directly from live models. A consummate artist, Grès created garments that were demonstrative of exemplary construction and meticulous attention to detail — her signature floor-length gowns left a lasting impact on every aspect of haute couture.
Born Germaine Émilie Krebs to a French Jewish family in Paris, Grès initially studied painting and sculpture. For her, making dresses and working in sculpture were one and the same, and she pursued a career in fashion. Grès worked in millinery and was trained in haute couture dressmaking at the illustrious House of Prémet.
Grès opened her inaugural couture fashion house in 1932, and within a couple of years she began working under the name Alix Barton — the surname came from her coworker, couturier Julie Barton — calling her business La Maison Alix and creating gowns until 1942 in what became her signature style. She perfected modern pleating techniques and worked directly on live models, mostly with generous amounts of silk jersey and airy silk paper taffeta. Her designs showed the influence of Greco-Roman sculpture and would go on to help shape the work of Jean-Paul Gaultier, Jil Sander and Azzedine Alaïa, who also thought of haute couture as sculpture.
Grès’s work was photographed by the likes of Horst P. Horst, and her gowns for Jean Giraudaux’s play The Trojan War Will Not Take Place in 1935 established her as a leading designer, though Nazi occupation stalled her growth.
During WWII, Grès refused to design the utilitarian garb that German forces requested and instead made clothes using the colors of the French flag as her own act of rebellion. Ultimately, she was forced to close her boutique in Paris. The designer married Russian painter Serge Czerefkov, changed her name to Grès — which is how her husband signed his name — and fled to the Pyrenees before returning to establish her second couture house under her new name.
Madame Grès’s second maison was widely successful and attracted a long list of rich and powerful clientele ranging from movie stars to royalty. A single dress could take hundreds of hours to complete. Some of the couturier’s clients became deeply loyal over the course of her career, including the Duchess of Windsor, Oscar-winning actresses Grace Kelly and Greta Garbo, iconic Tiffany & Co. jewelry designer Paloma Picasso and former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. Grès guarded her personal life closely and let her delicate, impeccable work speak for itself.
Original Madame Grès evening dresses and gowns, coats, jackets and day dresses, which transformed women into Greek deities, are held in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum at FIT and the Musée Bourdelle.
“Her dresses were about a sense of power, strength and beauty, not objectification,” explains Patricia Mears, deputy director of the Museum at FIT and author of Madame Grès: Sphinx of Fashion. “Everyone knows Chanel, Dior and Saint Laurent,” Mears says, “but I believe that the great triumvirate was Madeleine Vionnet, Balenciaga and Madame Grès — those who knew how to make clothes with their own hands, couturiers in the old sense of the word.”
Find vintage Madame Grès clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
Madame Grès pair of bracelets 'rams'
By Madame Gres
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
GRÈS - (Made in France) Set of silvery metal 'rams' opening bracelets, Madame Grès by Robert Goossens, circa 1960. Not signed. Bibliography: Similar pattern on « Costume Jewelry for...
Madame Gres Paris Silvered Link Bracelet with Frosted Glass Cabochons
By Madame Gres
Located in Atlanta, GA
Madame Gres Paris designed this beautiful link bracelet in the 1980s. The piece features a modernist geometric design with silvered metal elements frames topped with opalescent, fros...
Silver Plate
Hermes Kelly Bracelet Small Model Diamond in 18k Rose Gold ST
By Hermès
Located in Miami, FL
Mightychic offers a chic and instantly recognizable Hermes Kelly Bracelet Small Model. Iconic bracelet with turn clasp featured in 18...
Diamond, Rose Gold
22 Karat Gold Handmade Link Bracelet with Brilliant Cut Diamond Charms
By Malcolm Betts
Located in London, GB
22ct gold hand made link bracelet set with brilliant cut diamond charms Handmade in Notting Hill London by renowned British jeweller Malcolm Betts. 1.10cts approximate total diamon...
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, Platinum
$425
W 0.4 in L 7.51 in
Tiffany & Co. Return to Tiffany Sterling Silver Round Tag Link Bracelet Polished
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
A classic Tiffany & Co. bracelet in solid sterling silver, featuring the iconic Return to Tiffany round tag. The polished finish and bold link de...
Sterling Silver
Vintage Aquamarine Diamond Onyx Mauboussin Earrings Necklace Bracelet Suite
By Mauboussin
Located in Dallas, TX
Exceptional one-of-a-kind aquamarine diamond and black onyx suite attributed to Mauboussin Paris and set in 18 karat yellow gold. This impressive suite consists of a necklace, bracelet, and earrings and is a vintage creation dating to 1980s. It is emblematic of the bold French high-jewelry glamour of that era. Large aquamarines highlight each individual piece in the suite and feature an ever-elegant emerald-step-cut. The aquamarines display a rich and lively blue color that lights up beautifully as the pieces are worn. They are also characterized by very fine clarity. Vivid aquamarine gemstones float on top of oval 18 karat yellow gold base which is masterfully inlaid with black onyx and encrusted with sparkling fine white diamonds. The necklace and bracelet also feature elegant large oval gold links, surface of which is embellished with decorative ridges, and diamond set short links joining them. Diamonds total approximately 10.5 carats altogether. The juxtaposition of vivid blue aquamarines against elegant black onyx and sumptuous frames of glittering diamonds and luminous yellow gold setting create an incredibly sophisticated and chic statement jewelry. The pieces are in excellent condition and bear French hallmarks of the period including a maker’s mark for Péry & Fils which was one of the main jewelry makers for Mauboussin Paris. For further details please see summary below as well as individual listings for each of these pieces in our 1stdibs store. Suite pricing offers an attractive discount compared to buying each of the pieces individually. Summary: - Vintage suite dating to 1980s masterfully combines large blue aquamarines, elegant black onyx, white diamonds and 18 karate yellow gold into a bold and chic design that makes for high-statement jewelry - Featuring large vivid blue aquamarines of emerald-step-cut and of very fine clarity. Aquamarines altogether weigh an impressive 76 carats (24 carats for the necklace/ 30 carats for the bracelet / 11 carats for each of the earrings) - Featuring altogether approximately 10.5 carats of fine white round diamonds (F-G color) - Necklace measures approximately 16.5 inches (42cm) in length and its center pendant is approximately 1.2 by 1 inch (3cm by 2.6cm); bracelet measures approximately 6.9 inches (17.5cm) in length and its center section is approximately 1.25 by 1 inch (3.2cm by 2.5cm); clip-on earrings (posts for pierced ears can be added) measure 1in (2.5cm) in length and width - Attributed to Mauboussin Paris and with French hallmarks of the period including maker’s mark for Péry & Fils (well know Mauboussin jewelry...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Raymond Yard Art Deco 17.35 Carat Diamond Platinum Bracelet
By Raymond C. Yard
Located in Santa Barbara, CA
The elegance of this diamond bracelet by noteworthy jeweler Raymond Yard stands alone among Art Deco designs. With enchanting links and mesmerizing curves emblazoned with 17.35 carat...
Diamond, Platinum
$7,890
H 7.56 in W 0.43 in Dm 0.43 in L 7.56 in
Georgios Collections 18 Karat Gold Ruby Emerald Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet
By Georgios Collections Inc
Located in Astoria, NY
This S.Georgios designer Bracelet is handmade from 18 Karat Yellow Gold and is microscopically decorated with granulation - yellow gold beads and wires. Granulated details contrast w...
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Multi-gemstone, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sa...
22 Karat Gold Mycenaean-Inspired Lily Flower Link Bracelet
By Romae Jewelry
Located in New York, NY
22 Karat Yellow Gold Mycenaean-Inspired Lily Flower Link Bracelet by ROMAE Jewelry. Our incredible "Ilithyia" bracelet is inspired by a Mycenaean gold example from the area of Phaistos, in Crete, dating 1400 to 1300 BC. It is made up of small links that are supposed to recall the white lily...
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
18 Karat Gold Minoan-Inspired Basket Link Bracelet
By Romae Jewelry
Located in New York, NY
18 Karat Yellow Gold Minoan-Inspired Basket Link Bracelet by ROMAE Jewelry. This stunning bracelet is inspired by a Minoan gold example from the area of Knossos, Crete, dating to aro...
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$7,890
W 0.54 in L 7.25 in
Georgios Collections 18 Karat Yellow Gold Ruby Emerald Sapphire Diamond Bracelet
By Georgios Collections Inc
Located in Astoria, NY
S.Georgios Bracelet is handmade from solid 18 Karat Yellow Gold and is microscopically decorated with granulation - yellow gold beads and wires. Granulated details contrast with Byza...
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Multi-gemstone, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sa...
$2,719 / item
Rock Candy Rainbow Bracelet
By Jennifer House
Located in Chertsey, GB
Indulge your senses with the mesmerizing swirls of rock candy brought to life in a bracelet that is almost good enough to eat! Prepare to adorn your wrist w...
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
22 Karat Gold Hammered Link Bracelet with Platinum Set Old Cut Diamond 0.72cts
By Malcolm Betts
Located in London, GB
22ct gold hammered handmade link bracelet with platinum set old cut diamond 0.72cts- Handmade in Notting Hill London by British jeweller Malcolm Betts. The individual beauty and lon...
White Diamond, 22k Gold, Platinum
Vivid Diamonds 5.46 Carat Cuban Link Bracelet
By Vivid Diamonds
Located in Miami, FL
Exquisite Vivid Diamonds18 Karat yellow gold Cuban link bracelet featuring 5.46 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds, F-G color, VS clarity. Each diamond was carefully selected, pe...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold