Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.
Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.
The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
Vintage Boho Margiela Gold Abstract Bangle
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
The Margiela Gold Abstract Bangle is a bold, artistic, and avant-garde piece of jewelry that makes a statement with its sculptural, asymmetrical design. Crafted from high-quality mat...
Gold Plate
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Bracciale con specchio segreto in ottone FW 2012
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, IT
Bracciale gioiello con specchio segreto della collezione autunnale di Maison Martin Margiela. Il materiale del gioiello è ottone lucido e riflettente di colore oro scuro. Il braccia...
Brass
Maison Martin Margiela - rigid arm bracelet early 2000s
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, IT
Maison Martin Margiela - rigid arm bracelet early 2000s Pair of bracelets to be worn on the upper arm. They slip in by jamming them. The bracelets are polished silver in color and ha...
Steel
MAISON MARTIN MARGIRELA bracciale in ottone con biglie di vetro SS 2016
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, IT
Bracciale Maison Martin Margiela della stagione SS 2016 con tre biglie di vetro colorate incastrate all’interno di una struttura in ottone. Il colore è argentato e l'effetto della f...
Brass
Shield Cuff Solid Silver
By Tinguely Bijoux
Located in Boston, MA
Fluid and bold solid Silver cuff. Pairs with Shield Ring. Also available in Yellow Gold and White and Rose Gold by special order.
Sterling Silver
Chanel Vintage Hinged Camellia flower bracelet with safety chain 6.25"
By Chanel
Located in Sewickley, PA
Beautiful Chanel Camellia flower 24k gold plated hinged bracelet with safety chain. This bracelet is a rare example from the 1980s which is in lovely vintage condition without any m...
Gold Plate
Chanel Black Resin 3 Button Cuff Bracelet 2018 Fall Collection
By Chanel
Located in Palm Beach, FL
This outstanding, chic black resin Chanel cuff makes a big statement. The three gold tone buttons are highlighted with the CC logo in the cente...
Gold Plate
Shield Cuff Solid 18 Karat Gold
By Tinguely Bijoux
Located in Boston, MA
Fluid and bold solid 18 karat gold cuff. Pairs with Shield Ring. Also available in Silver and White Gold by special order.
18k Gold, Gold
22 Karat Gold Geometric Bracelet
By Romae Jewelry
Located in New York, NY
22 Karat Yellow Gold Geometric Bracelet by ROMAE Jewelry - Inspired by an Ancient Roman Design. Our "Aequitas" bracelet once again demonstrates that a...
Gold, 22k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antora Tubogas 18k Rose Gold Tubogas and Diamonds Clamper Bracelet
By Antora
Located in Neguri, Vizcaya
Flexible and adaptable bracelet with tubogas craftmanship that fits medium to large sizes. Available in three colours of gold, yellow, white and rose. 17,60gr and 0.25Carat Diamonds ...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
22 Karat Gold Bangle Bracelet
By Romae Jewelry
Located in New York, NY
Solid 22K Yellow Gold Bangle Bracelet by ROMAE Jewelry - Inspired by an Ancient Roman Design. Quintessentially timeless in its design, our "Fortuna" bracelet is notable for its gentl...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
22 Karat Gold Spiral Cuff Bracelet
By Romae Jewelry
Located in New York, NY
22 Karat Yellow Gold Spiral Cuff Bracelet by ROMAE Jewelry - Inspired by an Ancient Design. Our stunning solid gold "Eupraxia" bracelet features a timeless "figure-eight" spiral repe...
Gold, 22k Gold, Yellow Gold
$44,649 / item
W 2.84 in D 2.37 in L 2.72 in
Contemporary Beatrice Barzaghi Awarded 9 Ct Diamond Pave Gold Clamper Bracelet
By Beatrice Barzaghi Milano
Located in Milan, IT
Contemporary Beatrice Barzaghi Awarded 9 Ct Diamond Pave Gold Clamper Bracelet Introducing the extraordinary Gemini Clamper Bracelet by Beatrice Barzaghi...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
Modern Silver Diamond Patterned Clamper Cuff from Mexico
Located in Point Richmond, CA
Modern Silver Diamond Patterned Clamper Cuff from Mexico An attractive diamond pattern covers the surface of this modern clamper cuff from Mexico. The interior diameter is 2.5 inche...
Silver
Very Showy Large Designer Cadoro Clam Shell With Coral Clamper Cuff Bracelet
By Cadoro
Located in Tustin, CA
A very stately and showy vintage 1980’s Designer Cadoro large clam shell and coral motif dimensional cuff bracelet in rich 24 Karat gold finish with touches of rubbed silver make this bracelet a striking work of art fashion statement! Highly collectible, CADORO examples can be found exhibited in the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Museum of Modern Art. Cadoro, or Cadoro Jewels Corporation, was a Manhattan-based jewelry company founded in 1954 by Steven Brody and Daniel Stoenescu (aka Staneskieu), specializing in fashionable costume jewelry sold...
Base Metal, Mixed Metal
Antora Tubogas 18 Karat Rose Gold and Diamonds Diamond Bracelet
By Antora
Located in Neguri, Vizcaya
Flexible and adaptable necklace with tubogas craftmanship that fits medium to large sizes. Available in three colours of gold, yellow, white and rose. Gold Weight 9.5gr and 0.15Carat Diamonds Titanium Core Available in 3 colours of gold and made to measure wrist size Video is of similar bracelet so you can see flexibility and style Simple Twist - Tubogas literally translates to mean a “gas pipe” and is used to describe a certain type of flexible tubular chain that is formed by the pairing of multiple gold strips that have been tightly wound together, and have a titanium core. - Bulgari has been the most recognize brand that has taken Tubogas with a re-engineered system of individual links threaded onto a titanium core to the maximum level of high confort and modern jewelry. - Juste Un Clou, which in French literally means “Just A Nail” took the jewellery industry by storm when it first debuted in 1971. An Italian jewellery designer, Aldo Cipullo was the genius head behind the intriguing Cartier nail jewellery design. Production time 4 weeks Made in Antora, Catania Italy...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Maison Margiela Modern Rose Gold Signet Wide Cuff Bracelet
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Miami, FL
This chic and fashionable wide cuff bracelet is crafted in solid 18 karat rose gold, weighing 148.50 grams. Exposing a centered rounded square face. Measuring 7 inches around the wrist and very close to 2 inches width, with expandable hinge opening. This bracelet has been featured on high fashion magazines such as 'Elle' as top 50 best...
18k Gold
MAISON MARGIELA Bracelet - Thick Brown Leather Cuff Jewelry
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA cuff comes in brown textured leather with antique gold tone hardware double strap closure. Made in France. Good Pre-Owned Condition. Measurements: Length...
Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal Vintage Zipper-Bracelet
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
Bracelet that is made and comprised of 3 Zippers, with various colors for the fabric. The colors are Black, Dark Brown, and Petrol-Blue and all sewn together to be worn around the ...