Suzanne Belperron (1900–83) may not be a household name, but anyone who knows jewelry will recognize her as one of the industry’s 20th-century greats. She was born Suzanne Vuillerme in Saint-Claude, France, a center of the French diamond-cutting industry. Displaying an early talent for design, Belperron studied at the Besançon École des Beaux-Arts before moving to Paris and landing her first job as a model-maker and designer at French jewelry house Boivin when she was 19. Within a few years, she was named codirector — a meteoric rise that would jump-start her legacy.
In 1932, Belperron left Boivin to partner with gemstone and natural pearl dealer Bernard Herz, with whom she would develop her distinct avant-garde aesthetic. Unlike most jewelry designers of the day, Belperron decided against signing her works, feeling so confident in her uniqueness that she declared, “My style is my signature.” Her exceptionally dramatic works were nothing like the angular Art Deco pieces that were popular at the time, taking on large-scale sculptural forms and featuring various design motifs from cultures around the world. The designer was a favorite of couturier Elsa Schiaparelli, who modeled her Belperron jewelry in Vogue in 1933. (Belperron jewels would grace the cover of Vogue Paris in 1934.) She would also count Diana Vreeland and Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, among her fans.
World War II changed everything. When the Germans occupied Paris, the Jewish Herz transferred the company to Belperron in order to preserve the business. Both would later be arrested by the Nazis. Belperron was released; Herz was sent to the Drancy internment camp. He later died at Auschwitz, despite Belperron’s best efforts to get him released.
Belperron kept the firm going during the war and after its end Herz’s son, Jean — a released prisoner of war — became Belperron’s equal partner per Bernard Herz’s final wishes. The two would work together under the name Jean Herz-Suzanne Belperron for the rest of her career. In 1963, Belperron was awarded the rank of Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur, and she quietly retired in 1974.
In 1987, there was a resurgence of interest in Belperron’s work, thanks to the auction of the Duchess of Windsor’s personal collection, which included at least 16 pieces by the designer. In 1999, Ward Landrigan of Verdura acquired both the rights to the Belperron name as well as a design archive of thousands of drawings, leading to the relaunch of the brand in 2015 with a new salon on Fifth Avenue in New York.
Find Suzanne Belperron rings, brooches and other jewelry on 1stDibs today.
Suzanne Belperron 4.86 carat diamond ring, French, 1970-1974.
By Suzanne Belperron
Located in London, GB
Suzanne Belperron 4.86 carat diamond ring. Set with a cushion shape old mine diamond, J colour, VS1 clarity, with a weight of 4.86 carats in an open back claw setting, to an exceptio...
Diamond, Yellow Gold
Tiffany & Co. GIA 2.86 Carat E VS2 Round Brilliant Cut Diamond Solitaire
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
This iconic Tiffany & Co. platinum six-prong solitaire is the epitome of timeless elegance. At its center is a magnificent 2.86 carat round brilliant diamond, certified by GIA as...
Diamond, Platinum
4.86 Carat Bezel Set Emerald Cut Eternity Band
Located in Chicago, IL
This unique ring boasts 15 emerald cut diamonds weighing a total of 4.86 carats. Bezel set in platinum, this ring is beautifully crafted and very comfortable - perfect for everyday w...
Diamond, Platinum
Stunning 3.95 Carat Rose de France Diamond Ring
Located in Montreal, QC
Beautiful solitaire ring featuring a 3.95 carat oval facet-cut Rose de France; enhanced with a diamond in each corner; 4x's 1.8mm diamonds approx. .10tc...
Amethyst, Diamond
Ring in White Gold 18 Karat and Ceylon Sapphire 4.86 Carat
Located in Paris, FR
18 Carat White Gold Ring with Diamonds and Ceylon Sapphire 4.86 Carats Ring in 18 Carat white Gold setting in its Center a large Sapphire set with Claws weighing 4.86 Carats surrounded by a paving of Diamond set with Grain. The Ring of the Ring is paved with Grain-set Diamonds. Total Weight of Diamonds: 0.85 Carat. Certificate n ° 12. Ceylon heated...
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Suzanne Belperron Ring of Rock Crystal and Diamonds
By Suzanne Belperron
Located in Riverdale, NY
Elegant and rare Suzanne Belperron Ring of Rock Crystal and Diamonds from the 1930's. Iconic design of hand carved rock crystal of bombe form with an inserted panel of bright pave di...
Diamond, Rock Crystal, Platinum, 18k Gold
1970s French Mauboussin 4, 17 Carat Diamond Platinum Solitaire Ring
By Mauboussin
Located in Poitiers, FR
Ring in platinum, dog head hallmark. Magnificent diamond solitaire ring, it is set with a modern brilliant- cut diamond with 6 claws, supported on both sides by two baguette- cut diamonds. Total weight of the diamond : 4.17 carats. Quality certified by the french laboratory...
Diamond, White Diamond, Platinum
5.86ct Ceylon Sapphire Single-Stone Ring
Located in London, GB
Here we have a spectacular sapphire single-stone ring. This chic and stylish piece has been crafted from a rich 22ct yellow gold and features an impressive 5.86 carat oval faceted sa...
Sapphire, 22k Gold, Yellow Gold
4.86 Carats Peridot Pink Sapphire Diamond 14 Karat Yellow Gold Cocktail Ring
By Roshe Jewels
Located in Los Angeles, CA
4.86 Carats Peridot Pink Sapphire Diamond 14 Karat Yellow Gold Cocktail Ring This Peridot and Diamond Ring has a 4.10 Carat Emerald Cut Peridot and is surrounded by 14 Pink Sapphire...
Diamond, Peridot, Pink Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
18 Karat Yellow Gold, .86 Carat Oval Emerald Ring with .75 Carat Diamonds
Located in New York, NY
Set in 18 Karat Yellow Gold, is a beautiful .86Ct. Oval Emerald surrounded by .75Ct. of Round Diamonds set in a three prong setting. 10 Diamonds totaling .75 Carats. Size: 6, Can be sized upon Request. Available at Cellini Jewelers NYC
Diamond, Emerald, Yellow Gold
Blue Topaz Ring With White Topaz 4.86 Carats Sterling Silver
Located in Bonita Springs, FL
Comes with Gemological Appraisal by GIA GG/AJP All Gemstones are Natural in Origin Blue Topaz: 4.68 Carats White Topaz: 0.18 Carats Metal: Sterling Silver Ring Size: 8 US Custom sizi...
Topaz, Blue Topaz, Silver, Sterling Silver
Oval Cut 0.86 Carat Diamond Engagement Ring Estate 14 Karat Gold Fine Bridal
Located in Torrance, CA
Stylish diamond engagement ring crafted in 14 karat white gold. Centrally mounted oval cut diamond is estimated at 0.86 carats, accented with 16 estimated 0.01 carat diamonds. The ...
Diamond, White Diamond, 14k Gold, White Gold
.86 Carat Diamond Platinum Engagement Ring
Located in Hicksville, NY
Ring Size: 5.95 Metal Type: Platinum [Hallmarked, and Tested] Weight: 3.2 grams Center Diamond Details: Weight: .86 carat Cut: Old European Brilliant Color: J Clarity: VS1 Side Dia...
White Diamond, Platinum
Late 20th Century Ruby, Diamond, Platinum and 22K Gold Ring, 1.86 Carats, 1999
Located in London, GB
A late 20th century ruby diamond and gold ring, with a faceted oval ruby, weighing 1.86 carats, in a platinum rub over setting, with an emerald-cut diamond, either side, in platinum ...
Diamond, Ruby, 22k Gold, Platinum
French Art Deco 4.86 Carat Diamond and Platinum Ballerina Ring Circa 1935
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning, fine and impressive antique 1930s 2.56 carat diamond and platinum ballerina ring; part of our diverse collection of Art Deco diamond jewelry. This stunning, fine and imp...
Diamond, Platinum
4.86 Carat Green Emerald and Diamond Cocktail Ring
Located in New York, NY
A fashionable cocktail ring showcasing a vibrant green emerald, surrounded in a ribbon-like design accented with brilliant diamonds. Set in a polished white gold mounting. Green eme...
Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, White Gold
Suzanne Belperron Emerald Diamond Gold Ring
By Suzanne Belperron
Located in New York, NY
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold ring with emerald and diamonds by Suzanne Belperron. The ring centers on a very fine modified cushion-cut emerald with a weight of 7.62 carats...
Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold