Todd Oldham may wear many hats today as a creative, but he first made his mark on the world as the maximalist American fashion designer of the 1990s, during which he would become known for wildly playful runway shows and vibrant, adventurous evening dresses, skirts, jackets and other clothing.
Born in Corpus Christi, Texas, Oldham learned to sew at age nine. His first job after graduating high school was at Polo Ralph Lauren, where he worked in alterations. Then, after being fired — the teen’s punky personal style didn’t mesh well with the brand — he borrowed $100 from his parents, created a micro collection of his own and promptly sold it to Neiman Marcus before launching his own company with the department store’s lead buyer, Tony Longoria, who would become both his business and life partner. It was the meteoric start of a whirlwind career.
In 1990, the New York Times praised Oldham’s work (and that of his contemporary Christian Francis Roth) as “offbeat styles that bring wit and whimsy to the business of fashion.” Where major houses like Calvin Klein and Michael Kors went minimalist with their collections, Oldham went bold.
His style took on global inspiration. His family spent a few years during his childhood living in Iran, which introduced him to patterns, colors and materials not commonly used in America. So, for many of his collections, Oldham used over-the-top embellishments, rainbow hues, luxe materials and funky sewing techniques to create irreverent pieces that jibed with the zeitgeist of the ’90s. He even earned a gig on MTV, hosting a segment on the show House of Style that taught viewers how to make DIY clothing and accessories.
Then, in 1999, Oldman had had enough. He felt that it was time to explore other interests, so he closed up shop. Over the years, Oldham has designed furniture and created interiors and published books on influential shelter magazine Nest as well as modernist illustrator Charley Harper. But that’s not to say he doesn’t remember his fashion years fondly. Oldham and his studio collaborated with the Rhode Island School of Design on a retrospective of his fashion work in 2016 titled “All of Everything: Todd Oldham Fashion,” which toured the United States.
Find vintage Todd Oldham clothing on 1stDibs.
1990s Todd Oldham Butterfly + Flowers Embroidered Vintage 90s Waistcoat Vest
By Todd Oldham
Located in San Diego, CA
Rare 90s TODD OLDHAM boho hippie chic butterflies + flowers embroidered silk waist coat / vest! Tons of intricate hand embroidery throughout. Large ham...
$888
Size: Equivalent 39-40 french size
A Gold lamé and taffeta printed Modernist evening jacket -France Circa 1970-1980
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1970-1980 France A jacket in woven gold lamé drawing ferns and psychedelic lining in Modernist printed silk twill with vitamin colours! Straight cut jacket, Mao collar...
A French Brocaded Satin Silk Evening Jacket Circa 1930/1950
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1930/1950 France Evening or party jacket inspired by Amazone style, in brown silk satin with gold stylized patterns in volutes, feathers and panaches. This is a reuse of an older dress...
Loro Piana Cashmere Pink Blouse
By Loro Piana
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Loro Piana Cashmere Pink Blouse Short Sleeve Smock waist 100% cashmere EU size 46
ISSEY MIYAKE S/S 1991 Documented Runway 'Dinosaur' Sleeves Black Silk Jacket
By Issey Miyake
Located in Munich, DE
Important and rare documented Spring/Summer 1991 black 'Dinosaur' silk jacket by Issey Miyake as presented on the runway. The twin of this jacket walked the runway in several colours and fabrics. Versions of it are part of various fashion museums worldwide such as The Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City and the Powerhouse Collection of the MAAS Museum in Sydney. The linen model was photographed by renowned fashion photographer Irving Penn and is shown in the book "Irving Penn regards the work of Issey Miyake" published by Bulfinch. Please see the reference pictures and send us a note for a video sequence of the fashion show. Designed under the eye of Issey Miyake himself this stunning black silk jacket features a simple yet complex cut based on origami Japanese folding techniques. Both front and back are expertly pleated. Yet the star of this design are the long sleeves that are folded and pressed in such a way to create a zig zag line along the top of the sleeve which is reminiscent of a dinosaur's jagged back. The use of silk gazar is the perfect choice for this garment as the fabric combines qualities of delicacy with a gentle stiffness which is required to maintain the folded fabric form. The jacket is unlined and buttons up the center front. Labelled "Issey Miyake" and tagged a Japanese vintage size M. The jacket was purchased in 1991 by my couture client in Munich, Germany, and has not been on the market prior to this. Excellent vintage condition. Bust: 104 cm – 40.94" Waist: 82 cm – 32.28" Length: 53 cm – 20.87" Measurements for bust and waist are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED. Modern Sizing Equivalent: S-M Reference Photos: 1-5: S/S 1991 Issey Miyake runway...
Blumarine S/S 2002 Floral Multicolour Silk Blouse Top
By Blumarine
Located in Wembley, GB
Interdite Vintage presents Blumarine S/S 2002 Floral Multicolour Silk Blouse Top • Blumarine • From the Spring / Summer 2002 collection • Same print seen on the runway and same bl...
Valentino Boutique Pink Silk Sweater Blouse
By Valentino
Located in Capri, IT
Valentino Boutique Pink Silk Sweater Blouse Totally made in italy still with tags in size 8 Composition: Silk Lining: Cupro and Rayon
F/W 1996 Gucci by Tom Ford Hot Pink Silk Button Up Epaulette Military Top
By Tom Ford for Gucci, Gucci
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting a collared button-up incredible pink silk Gucci top designed by Tom Ford. This top has long sleeves, a prominent collar, shoulder pads, and epaulets. Words and pictures ca...
Tom Ford for Gucci F/W 1999 Super Soft Black Leather Back Zip Top Jacket 40
By Gucci, Tom Ford for Gucci
Located in Montgomery, TX
Tom Ford for Gucci Black Leather Top F/W 1999 Runway Collection Designer size - 40 Super soft leather, square neck line, back zip closure. Made in Italy Excellent vintage condition.
Chanel F/W 1991 Hip Hop Collection hot pink silk runway blouse by Karl Lagerfeld
By Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Chanel
Located in PARIS, FR
Rare Chanel F/W 1991 Hip Hop Collection by Karl Lagerfeld runway silk hot pink blouse. Size 36 FR on the tag it fits US 0 up to US 4. Amazing print de...
1980s Saint Laurent Hot Pink Silk Ruffled and Ribbon Tie Camisole
By Yves Saint Laurent
Located in Gresham, OR
1980s Yves Saint Laurent for ruffled and ribbon tie front camisole in hot pink silk with black pin dots. Bias ruffles at neck and shoulders. French size 38.
1980s Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche YSL Top FR38 Pink Silk Polka Dots Blouse M
By Yves Saint Laurent
Located in PARIS, FR
Top Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche YSL circa 1980 blouse in bright pink damask silk with polka dots, short lavallière on a round collar closed by 6 buttons, long sleeves, slit at the...
F/W 1992 Gianni Versace Couture Black Leather 'Miss S&M' Bondage Vest
By Gianni Versace, Gianni Versace Couture
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Gianni Versace featured this stunning and sought-after vest on the 1992 F/W runway. This collection is infamous for its sexually provocative designs and is titled 'Miss S&M' (commonl...
Todd Oldham New Abstract Pattern Striped Silk Shirt 1980s
By Todd Oldham
Located in Water Mill, NY
A whimsical silk shirt from Todd Oldham in brightly colored vertical stripes with an abstract shapes print in black. It is full cut with a shirt collar and pretty glass buttons in different colors along the center front. It has dropped shoulders and full cut French cuff sleeves with fabulous glass cuff links...
1980s Todd Oldham Vintage Horse Back Silk Shirt
By Todd Oldham
Located in Water Mill, NY
A great silk shirt from Todd Oldham. It has short sleeves and a shirt collar with copper coiled buttons up the front. The colors and patterns are signature Todd Oldham consisting o...
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Size: Small / Medium
1990s Todd Oldham Op Art Blue + White Vintage Sleeveless Cotton Rhinestone Top
By Todd Oldham
Located in San Diego, CA
Rare and amazing 90s TODD OLDHAM blue and white op-art sleeveless blouse! Features a hand painted cartoon character on the front with tiny dots th...