By Geoffrey Beene
Located in Richardson, TX
This sensational vintage Geoffrey Beene black and pink satin coat dress, dating circa 1969-1971, is a superb example of Beene’s striking use of vivid color and contrast from the late 1960s through the turn of the decade. The dress is defined by an extraordinary, oversized shocking-pink portrait collar that forms a dramatic point at center back. Matching pink channel-quilted cuffs, and pink satin front facings, complete the bold black-and-pink design.
The enormous collar and belted silhouette make this as much a statement piece today as it was when it was first created. The dress has long sleeves, a fitted bodice, and a densely gathered skirt that wraps in front and closes to the left of center with hooks and threaded “eyes.” The oversized collar forms a deep V in front that beautifully frames the neckline. It’s quite broad across the shoulders before tapering acutely downward into a point in back, creating a quite distinctively Beene silhouette.
Accompanying the dress is a three-inch wide black fabric-covered belt with a large rectangular tension buckle that appears to be the original belt. In our research, we dug up three prior examples of the dress (two of which might be the same dress and one in a museum that is mis-attributed to 1985), and this is the only one that retains the belt. Inside the dress is a grosgrain waist belt that also appears to be original.
The black satin fabric is thick and weighty. There is no fabric-content label, however it was tested and is most likely polyester, a fabric Geoffrey Beene was already using in his high-fashion collections during this period. The entire dress is fully lined in crisp but sheer organza. The back of the belt has what looks like T4 printed on it, which could be the original size of the dress (Taille 4, or Size 4, in French). But measurements indicate it’s a modern size 2. Review the photos carefully, because they, too, are part of the description.
ADDITIONAL NOTES
Dating is supported by the original ILGWU union label, a version used from 1964-1973, providing firm evidence that the dress predates the mid-1970s. An identical example of the dress has also been independently attributed to the 1960s by Shrimpton Couture...
Category
1960s American Texas