Margiela Miss Deanna

Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.

Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”

Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.

Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.

Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988. 

Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.

The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.

While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.

“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”

John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.

Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.

The vintage sweaters in your dresser may have humble origins, but they can’t be beaten for year-round fashion.

In the 15th century, sweaters originated as jersey tunics and other knitted shirts designed to keep sailors and fishermen warm. Later, during the 1880s in America, these knitted or crocheted vests or pullovers — in Britain, “jumpers” — were thought to substantially help athletes shed pounds as needed. Sweaters were an ideal garment for sports and outdoor events in the late 19th century. The knit fabric permitted movement but the material also protected against the cold. It wasn’t until the 1920s, however, that sweaters were introduced to the world of high fashion, thanks to pioneering designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Coco Chanel and Jeanne Lanvin.

A versatile garment, sweaters go well with most looks — from a casual gathering over drinks with friends to complementing a professional ensemble for the office to a night out at the theater. Simply pair a timeless cardigan with slacks or a skirt and your nicest dress shoes for any occasion, in any season, to tie an outfit together.

Once they were considered en vogue, sweaters were no longer strictly made with natural fibers like wool. Over time, fashion designers introduced the use of softer, synthetic materials. Today, traditional sweaters, such as those made with merino wool, are just as popular as more modern creations, such as the sweater dress. Similar to sweatshirts, sweaters come in all kinds of materials, from light synthetic blends perfect for spring to heavier fabrics, like cable-knit wool, to stay cozy and warm in winter and embrace the Danish concept of hygge.

A crucial factor that goes into selecting the perfect sweater is the material. High-quality wool, such as merino wool, which is soft and breathable, will feel luxurious and keep you warm on even the chilliest of evenings. Alpaca fleece, the fibers of which are native to Peru, offers the same warmth as wool, but an alpaca sweater is going to feel even softer than a merino wool sweater, similar to cashmere. Who doesn’t want a slouchy, oversize sweater made of a mix of mohair, nylon and wool on those subzero East Coast nights?

It’s important to note that wool can be a finicky material, easy to stain or distort and stretch. Synthetic materials are not only lightweight, but a nylon or polyester sweater will also be easier to wash and care for. If you opt for wool, take care of your sweater — fabric shavers, fabric combs and the local dry cleaner are your friends.

Sweaters come in various styles like V-neck, turtleneck and crewneck, which is the most popular style. For those extra cold days, a turtleneck offers added warmth without sacrificing style. Those looking for a casual touch that still emphasizes elegance can opt for a long tunic or scoop-neck pullover.

Maybe Versace or Gucci sweaters catch your eye, or ’90s fashion is your thing and a color-blocked sweater dress or John Galliano cardigan of the era is already a closet staple for you. Perhaps you’d rather opt for a 1970s long-sleeve knit top from Yves Saint Laurent. Either way, you’ll find exactly the black, beige or red vintage sweater you’re looking for in men, women or unisex styles today on 1stDibs.