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Van Cleef Bear

Van Cleef & Arpels 1965 Convertible Necklace, Bracelet & Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels 1965 Convertible Necklace, Bracelet & Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels 1965 Convertible Necklace, Bracelet & Brooch

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

and VVS-VS clarity. Each piece is fully signed "Van Cleef & Arpels," numbered, and bears French

Category

Vintage 1960s French Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Platinum

Van Cleef & Arpels Sirius Diamond Brooch in 18K Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Sirius Diamond Brooch in 18K Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Sirius Diamond Brooch in 18K Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

a vibrant, almost star-like energy. The brooch bears the Van Cleef & Arpels signature along with the

Category

20th Century French Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 1970s Taurus Zodiac Sign Gold Medallion Pendant
Van Cleef & Arpels 1970s Taurus Zodiac Sign Gold Medallion Pendant

Van Cleef & Arpels 1970s Taurus Zodiac Sign Gold Medallion Pendant

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

1970s vintage 18k yellow gold medallion, by Van Cleef & Arpels, depicting Taurus Zodiac sign

Category

Vintage 1970s French Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Gold

Van Cleef Arpels Aquamarine Ring. 1.50ct Square Aquamarine Pearl Ring 18K Gold
Van Cleef Arpels Aquamarine Ring. 1.50ct Square Aquamarine Pearl Ring 18K Gold

Van Cleef Arpels Aquamarine Ring. 1.50ct Square Aquamarine Pearl Ring 18K Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

blending elegance and sophistication. This exceptional ring is signed "Van Cleef & Arpels" and bears

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Deco Engagement Rings

Materials

Aquamarine, Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold

VCA Aquamarine and Mother Pearl Ring. 1.50ct Square Cut Aquamarine Ring 18K Gold
VCA Aquamarine and Mother Pearl Ring. 1.50ct Square Cut Aquamarine Ring 18K Gold

VCA Aquamarine and Mother Pearl Ring. 1.50ct Square Cut Aquamarine Ring 18K Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Manufacturer: Van Cleef and Arpels Primary Stone: Aquamarine Primary Stone Weight: Approx. 1.50

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Art Deco Engagement Rings

Materials

Aquamarine, Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Recent Sales

Van Cleef & Arpels "Twist" Cufflinks in 18K Yellow Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels "Twist" Cufflinks in 18K Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels "Twist" Cufflinks in 18K Yellow Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in San Rafael, CA

signed VAN CLEEF & ARPELS and bear VCA maker's marks, serial numbers, 18 Kt, the copyright symbol and

Category

20th Century French Cufflinks

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Teddy Bear Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Teddy Bear Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Teddy Bear Brooch

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Amsterdam, NL

black enamel nose, signed and numbered: Van Cleef & Arpels, 1324B, Paris, circa 1965. weight: 22.6

Category

Vintage 1960s French Brooches

Materials

Agate, Ruby, 18k Gold

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Charm Yellow Gold Band Ring
Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Charm Yellow Gold Band Ring

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Charm Yellow Gold Band Ring

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Southampton, PA

18k Yellow Gold Bear Charm Vintage Band Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels. This ring comes with service

Category

20th Century French Band Rings

Materials

18k Gold

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels French 18 Karat Yellow Gold Bear Charm Ring
Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels French 18 Karat Yellow Gold Bear Charm Ring

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels French 18 Karat Yellow Gold Bear Charm Ring

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Beverly Hills, CA

One Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels French 18 Karat Yellow Gold Bear Charm Ring. Crafted in 18 karat

Category

1990s French Fashion Rings

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels French Diamond 18 Karat Gold Teddy Bear Pendant Vintage Ring
Van Cleef & Arpels French Diamond 18 Karat Gold Teddy Bear Pendant Vintage Ring

Van Cleef & Arpels French Diamond 18 Karat Gold Teddy Bear Pendant Vintage Ring

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Philadelphia, PA

. French assay mark for 18 karat gold. Numbered with maker's mark. Signed VCA NY for Van Cleef & Arpels

Category

Late 20th Century American Contemporary Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Very Rare Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Yellow Gold Teddy Bear Ring and Pendant
Very Rare Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Yellow Gold Teddy Bear Ring and Pendant

Very Rare Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Yellow Gold Teddy Bear Ring and Pendant

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Birmingham, GB

Very Rare Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Yellow Gold Teddy Bear Ring AND Pendant. A unique and

Category

20th Century French Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Lucky Animals Teddy Bear Clip Mother of Pearl Onyx 18K Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Lucky Animals Teddy Bear Clip Mother of Pearl Onyx 18K Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Lucky Animals Teddy Bear Clip Mother of Pearl Onyx 18K Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Banbury, GB

SKU 33301843 Comes With Full Set (Pouch + Card) Date 2023 RRP £7,300 Incl. Taxes / €8,550 Incl. Taxes / $8,200 Excl. Taxes Model VCARP9RZ00 Serial Number JF****** Metal 18k Rose Gold...

Category

2010s French Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Diamond Earrings
Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Diamond Earrings

Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Diamond Earrings

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New Orleans, LA

Elizabeth Taylor. These earrings bear the Van Cleef & Arpels mark. 1” diameter

Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Modern Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris 18K Unusual Vintage Earrings.
Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris 18K Unusual Vintage Earrings.

Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris 18K Unusual Vintage Earrings.

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Aspen, CO

for 18K and bear the Van Cleef numbers. To prevent reproductions, we have obscured the full Van Cleef

Category

Vintage 1970s French Contemporary Clip-on Earrings

Materials

18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, 18K Unusual Vintage Earrings.
Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, 18K Unusual Vintage Earrings.

Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, 18K Unusual Vintage Earrings.

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Aspen, CO

for 18K and bear the Van Cleef numbers. To prevent reproductions, we have obscured the full Van Cleef

Category

Vintage 1970s French Contemporary Clip-on Earrings

Materials

18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Snowflake Diamond Earrings Small Model
Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Snowflake Diamond Earrings Small Model

Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Snowflake Diamond Earrings Small Model

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

). Elegantly signed and numbered, they are inscribed with Van Cleef & Arpels, VCA, PT950 and bear French assay

Category

20th Century French Modern Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

Floral Diamond and Gold Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, 18.00 Carat
Floral Diamond and Gold Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, 18.00 Carat

Floral Diamond and Gold Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, 18.00 Carat

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New Orleans, LA

Monaco and Elizabeth Taylor. This brooch bears the Van Cleef & Arpels mark. 1" diameter

Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Modern Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Mercredi a Paris 18k Rose Gold Diamond Coral Necklace
Van Cleef & Arpels Mercredi a Paris 18k Rose Gold Diamond Coral Necklace

Van Cleef & Arpels Mercredi a Paris 18k Rose Gold Diamond Coral Necklace

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

stunning and evocative. Fully signed and numbered by Van Cleef & Arpels, this necklace bears the

Category

Early 2000s French Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Coral, Diamond, Rose Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Cabochon Gold Cuff-Links
Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Cabochon Gold Cuff-Links

Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Cabochon Gold Cuff-Links

Located in Miami, FL

signed by Van Cleef & Arpels and bear the reference number 51391. These designer cuff-links are

Category

Vintage 1970s Cufflinks

Materials

Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Ruby Polar Bear Platinum Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Ruby Polar Bear Platinum Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Ruby Polar Bear Platinum Brooch

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

. Ruby bright and lively, single pinstem. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels NY. Serial number will be provided

Category

20th Century French Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Charm Yellow Gold Band Ring
Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Charm Yellow Gold Band Ring

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Charm Yellow Gold Band Ring

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Southampton, PA

18k Yellow Gold Bear Charm Vintage Band Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels. Details: Ring Size: 6 Width

Category

1990s Band Rings

Materials

Yellow Gold

18 Karat Gold Van Cleef & Arpels Cat and Bear Pendant with Chain
18 Karat Gold Van Cleef & Arpels Cat and Bear Pendant with Chain

18 Karat Gold Van Cleef & Arpels Cat and Bear Pendant with Chain

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Zurich, Zollstrasse

This rare and fabulous 2 Van Cleef & Arpels pendants feature the iconic chat malicieux and bear

Category

Vintage 1980s French Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Pristine Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Onyx Panda Bear Brooch 18 Karat Gold
Pristine Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Onyx Panda Bear Brooch 18 Karat Gold

Pristine Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Onyx Panda Bear Brooch 18 Karat Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

, with French assay marks and maker's mark Signed V.C.A. for Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y Serial number k415

Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Artisan Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold

Jumbo Van Cleef & Arpels Aquarius Zodiac Pendant
Jumbo Van Cleef & Arpels Aquarius Zodiac Pendant

Jumbo Van Cleef & Arpels Aquarius Zodiac Pendant

Sold

H 1.93 in W 1.62 in Dm 1.62 in

Jumbo Van Cleef & Arpels Aquarius Zodiac Pendant

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Amsterdam, NL

and challenging conventions. The pendant is signed: VCA for Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered: 127261, and

Category

Vintage 1970s French Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold

Large Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Ruby Foliate Brooch 3 1/8 Inches Long
Large Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Ruby Foliate Brooch 3 1/8 Inches Long

Large Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Gold and Ruby Foliate Brooch 3 1/8 Inches Long

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Palm Beach, FL

This wonderful foliate brooch, crafted by esteemed maker Van Cleef & Arpels in 1958 is a classic

Category

Mid-20th Century American Modern Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Earrings in 18K Yellow Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Earrings in 18K Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Earrings in 18K Yellow Gold

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in London, GB

Van Cleef & Arpels Bear Earrings in 18K Yellow Gold Additional information: Length: 22 mm. Width

Category

20th Century Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Yellow Gold

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Mughal Magnificent Traditional Bead & Cabochon Multi Color Vintage Necklace
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NORMAN NORELL Black Wool Double Breasted Coat With Waist Detail, Late 1960's

NORMAN NORELL Black Wool Double Breasted Coat With Waist Detail, Late 1960's

By Norman Norell

Located in Atlanta, GA

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1960s American Coats

Hermès Birkin 30 Sellier Epsom Bleu Royal Gold Hardware
Hermès Birkin 30 Sellier Epsom Bleu Royal Gold Hardware

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By Hermès

Located in Berlin, DE

Hermès Birkin sellier 30 in bleu royal and epsom leather with gold hardware. The bag is unworn and comes as full set including the original receipt. Stamp U (2022)

Category

2010s French Top Handle Bags

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Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Seven Butterflies Diamond Bracelet

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By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.

Located in Kuala Lumpur, MY

Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Seven Butterflies Diamond Bracelet in Platinum and Yellow Gold Signed: Tiffany Schlumberger Creator/Maker: Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany &am...

Category

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Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum

JOHN GALLIANO 2000's Vintage Gazette Newsprint Newspaper Maxi Dress Gown w. Slit
JOHN GALLIANO 2000's Vintage Gazette Newsprint Newspaper Maxi Dress Gown w. Slit

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By John Galliano

Located in Leonardo, NJ

John Galliano Vintage 2000's Newspaper print Pullover Has stretch Huge side slit IT44 Pristine Measurements in inches laying flat: length 58, pit to pit 16 to 19, smallest of waist 1...

Category

Early 2000s Evening Dresses

LES HABITUDES 90's Vintage Couture Ivory Beaded Silk Bridal Wedding Gown w.Shawl
LES HABITUDES 90's Vintage Couture Ivory Beaded Silk Bridal Wedding Gown w.Shawl

LES HABITUDES 90's Vintage Couture Ivory Beaded Silk Bridal Wedding Gown w.Shawl

By Eavis & Brown

Located in Leonardo, NJ

Les Habitudes / Eavis & Brown Couture created, entirely hand-made in a London atelier Wedding gown with matching shawl Vintage 1990's Photographs a little "whiter" than it looks ...

Category

1990s Wedding Dresses

Patek Philippe Ellipse White Gold 4830G
Patek Philippe Ellipse White Gold 4830G

Patek Philippe Ellipse White Gold 4830G

By Patek Philippe

Located in Mayfair, London, London

A white gold Ellipse by Patek Philippe. Features a white mother of pearl dial with diamond set hour markers and Arabic numbers 3, 6, 9 and 12. Fitted with sapphire crystal and a quar...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Swiss Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Cartier Tank Basculante XL 26mm 2522
Cartier Tank Basculante XL 26mm 2522

Cartier Tank Basculante XL 26mm 2522

$10,299

H 1.58 in W 1.03 in

Cartier Tank Basculante XL 26mm 2522

By Cartier

Located in Mayfair, London, London

A 26mm XL Tank Basculante in stainless steel by Cartier. Featuring a silver dial with Roman numerals, blued-steel sword-shaped hands, and a secret Cartier signature at VII. The watch...

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Materials

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PIAGET Lapis Diamond Lapis Dial 18K Gold Ladies Watch
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By Piaget

Located in Miami, FL

Vintage  Piaget's ladies' watch in solid 18-karat white gold. Full-length with a large face  Embellished with factory set diamond. Sapphire Crystal, Genuine lapis Dial, 25mm case( w...

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Christian Dior by John Galliano S/S1998 In a Boudoir Mood Lace Ivory Jacket
Christian Dior by John Galliano S/S1998 In a Boudoir Mood Lace Ivory Jacket

Christian Dior by John Galliano S/S1998 In a Boudoir Mood Lace Ivory Jacket

By Christian Dior, John Galliano for Christian Dior

Located in Jersey City, NJ

A rare and highly collectible piece from one of John Galliano’s most theatrical and influential seasons at the House of Dior. This jacket is from the iconic Spring/Summer 1998 “In a ...

Category

1990s French Jackets

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New Gucci Watch  quartz stainless steel Swiss Made

New Gucci Watch quartz stainless steel Swiss Made

$581

H 1.15 in W 0.91 in Dm 0.91 in

New Gucci Watch quartz stainless steel Swiss Made

By Gucci

Located in Cattolica, IT

New Gucci Watch swiss made stainless steel quartz. The 'watch has never been worn and comes from an authorized Italian seller. Accompanied by box and Gucci international warranty. ...

Category

Early 2000s Swiss Modern Wrist Watches

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Hermès Birkin 40 Gold Togo PHW
Hermès Birkin 40 Gold Togo PHW

Hermès Birkin 40 Gold Togo PHW

$21,200

H 11.03 in W 7.88 in D 8.27 in L 15.75 in

Hermès Birkin 40 Gold Togo PHW

By Hermès

Located in London, GB

- Brown - Gold - Palladium hardware - Two rolled top handles - Front flap closure with twist-lock fastening - Comes with lock, clochette and keys - Stamp J square. Year 2006 - Condit...

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By Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Chanel

Located in Jersey City, NJ

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1990s French Ball Gowns

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By Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Chanel

Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR

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2010s French Coats and Outerwear

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Cartier Santos Large Customized Watch

Cartier Santos Large Customized Watch

By Cartier

Located in New Delhi, Delhi

Original Cartier WSSA0018 Men's Santos Large Size With Date Customized F/VS1 24.90 Cts Diamonds. Complete with box and paper . Note: Diamonds are aftermarket.

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Giant Baroque Flame Pearl Yellow Gold Bracelet

Located in GOES, NL

The Flame baroque pearl bracelet is a striking expression of natural elegance and refined craftsmanship. Each pearl is uniquely shaped, celebrating the organic beauty that only genui...

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Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

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Van Cleef Bear For Sale on 1stDibs

Find the exact van cleef bear you’re shopping for in the variety available on 1stDibs. Frequently made of 18k gold, gold and yellow gold, this item was constructed with great care. You can easily find a 11 antique edition and 1 modern creations to choose from as well. Finding the perfect van cleef bear may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 20th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. A van cleef bear from Van Cleef & Arpels and Robert Bruce Bielka — each of whom created a beautiful version of this treasured accessory — is worth considering. A van cleef bear of any era or style can lend versatility to your look, but a version featuring diamond, from our inventory of 4, is particularly popular. A round cut version of this piece has appeal, but there are also cabochon and french cut versions for sale. Most of our van cleef bear for sale are for women, but there are 5 pieces available to browse for men.

How Much is a Van Cleef Bear?

Prices for a van cleef bear can differ depending upon size, time period and other attributes — at 1stDibs, these accessories begin at $372 and can go as high as $198,500, while this accessory, on average, fetches $5,317.

Van Cleef & Arpels for sale on 1stDibs

One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.

The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpels. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)

Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.

But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.

Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.

Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

Questions About Van Cleef & Arpels
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Van Cleef & Arpels is so expensive because it is a well-known company that has a fantastic reputation. Van Cleef & Arpels are universally renowned for high quality jewelry with a focus on detail. High-profile fans of the French jewelry house over the years have included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor and many more. Find an extraordinary range of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.