From the prismatic Pleats Please collection to the modular, three-dimensional garments crafted from recycled plastic bottles in his Reality Lab, the captivating fashions by Japanese designer Issey Miyake are all about movement.
Born in Hiroshima, Miyake studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo before relocating to Paris in 1965, where he studied couture and cut his teeth working for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy. In 1969, he moved to New York, where he worked for Geoffrey Beene. He returned to Tokyo in 1970 to found his first solo venture, the Miyake Design Studio. It wasn’t until the 1990s, though, that the designer had his breakthrough moment with experimentations in pleating. Some of his earliest explorations were for choreographer William Forsythe’s Frankfurt Ballet Company, with the 1991 performance of The Loss of Small Detail featuring costumes Miyake designed with pleats that complemented and transformed the movement of the dancers.
Though long a staple in couture — from delicate women’s skirts to men’s suit pants — pleats took on new life in Miyake’s hands. By using a heat press to cure his fabrics after his garments are stitched, Miyake was able to maintain the accordion structure of the pleat, turning a series of folds into sculptural, often futuristic forms unbound by the shape of the human body. In 1993, Miyake debuted “garment pleating” in his Pleats Please line, in which the clothes are constructed at a size that is larger than what is intended for the finished product. The pleats are then created — a process that involves folding and ironing and is separate from the joining of seams — and individual pieces are subsequently hand-fed into a heat press. The pleats are permanent and the garments can be worn and washed without losing their shape.
Miyake’s pleats run the gamut in scale, which enabled him to evoke dramatic, sharp silhouettes and flowy movements in equal measure. In essence, he created an entirely new material whose iterations are infinite — a feat of technology as much as fashion.
Other innovations include Miyake’s 1997 Just Before collection, which introduced a series of tube-knit dresses that could be cut as desired, reducing both work and resources. His Reality Lab now investigates new materials, such as a fully recycled polyester. Miyake’s prowess, in fact, captured another iconic figure in the tech world: Steve Jobs, for whom the designer made hundreds of identical black turtlenecks, the late Apple founder’s sartorial signature.
Find a collection of vintage Issey Miyake day dresses, jackets, shirts and other clothing on 1stDibs.
ISSEY MIYAKE aqua blue nylon PLEATS PLEASE OPERA Gloves
By Issey Miyake
Located in Zürich, CH
100% authentic Issey Miyake Pleats Please long fringed gloves in aqua nylon (53%), polyester (34%) and polyurethane (13%). Have been worn and are in exce...
Hermès Helsinki Women Gloves in Cashmere and Leather Size 6, 5
By Hermès
Located in Corcoué Sur Logne, Loire-Atlantique
Gorgeous Authentic Hermès Gloves "HELSINKI BI POLAIRE" Made of Cashmere and Calfskin Leather, lined with Silk Colorways: Craie (Chalk) / Caramel Strap around the wrist to be fixe...
Isabel Canovas Black Silk Long Tassel Gloves circa 1990s
By Isabel Canovas
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
The Isabel Canovas Black Silk Long Tassel Gloves from the circa 1990s epitomize vintage elegance and sophisticated glamour. Crafted from luxurious black silk, these elbow-length glov...
F/W 1997 Christian Dior by John Galliano White Fox Fur Trim Leather Gloves
By John Galliano for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in West Hollywood, CA
From Christian Dior's Fall/Winter 1997 collection by John Galliano, these luxurious leather gloves feature an elegant white fox fur trim. Approximate Measurements: Palm Width: 4" ac...
Chanel White Leather Bow Detailed Gloves circa 1990s
By Chanel
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
The Chanel White Leather Bow Detailed Gloves from the circa 1990s epitomize timeless elegance and luxurious craftsmanship. Crafted from white leather, these gloves exude sophisticati...
Hermes Black Leather & Green Suede Studded Gloves circa 1990s
By Hermès
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
The Hermes Black Leather & Green Suede Studded Gloves from the circa 1990s embody a sophisticated blend of luxury and edgy design. Crafted from supple black leather, these gloves exude timeless elegance, while the green suede scalloped fold-over detail introduces a pop of color and texture, elevating their aesthetic. The gold-tone studs accentuate the scalloped edge, adding a touch of opulence and a hint of rebellious charm. These gloves are versatile enough to complement a range of high-end fashion pieces; they pair beautifully with a tailored Hermès blazer, a sleek Chanel trench coat, or a luxurious Gucci leather handbag. For a more contemporary look, style them with a Saint Laurent leather jacket or a Prada cashmere sweater...
Miu Miu Vintage Black Lambskin Intrecciato Gloves, Size 7, Italy
By Miuccia Prada, Miu Miu
Located in Caserta, IT
Miu Miu Black Lambskin Intrecciato Gloves from early 00's. Intrecciato details on the upper. Laced up. Made in real leather. Size is a 7, correspond to an M for women. Very good cond...
Lovely Hermès Gloves Purple Pink Leather Size 7.5
By Hermès
Located in Corcoué Sur Logne, Loire-Atlantique
Gorgeous Authentic Hermès Gloves Made in France Made of smooth leather Colorways: Purple, Pink Each glove decorated with a purple and pink cockade, the wrists enhanced with pink...
1980s Isabel Canovas Gauntlet Gloves with Cut Out Floral Motif
By Isabel Canovas
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Channel Your Inner 80s Girl With These Amazing Gloves! These hunter green suede gloves feature a chic and classic gauntlet style cuff. The cuff includes a be...
1990s Gianfranco Ferre Faux Fur Vintage Yeti Mittens
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in London, GB
1990s Gianfranco Ferre Faux Fur Yeti Mittens, exterior is a supple, heavily grained black leather, cut into a classic mitten silhouette with a stitched thumb gusset and clean topstit...
Prada Black Dyed Beaver Fur Arm Cuffs
By Prada
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
The Prada Black Dyed Beaver Fur Cuffs are a luxurious accessory that exudes elegance and sophistication. Crafted from plush, high-quality beaver fur, these cuffs are dyed in a sleek black hue, making them versatile for both day and evening wear. Their soft texture and opulent appearance make them a statement piece that can elevate any outfit. These cuffs are perfect for pairing with a tailored wool coat, adding a touch of luxury to a classic silhouette. They also complement designer pieces such as a Chanel tweed jacket, a Saint Laurent leather blazer...
CARVEN Size 9 Tan Black Sheep Leather Alpaca Blend Gloves
By Carven
Located in San Francisco, CA
CARVEN gloves in a tan alpaca blend faux shearling and black sheep leather featuring a two tone design.Very Good Pre-Owned Condition. Minor signs of wear. Marked: 9 Measurement...
Gucci Lace Floral Gloves, Long Sleeve
By Gucci
Located in KRAKÓW, PL
Gucci long lace floral gloves in black Size S/M These beautiful gloves are the perfect accessory that you've been looking for. Featuring sexy black floral lace in a long glove styl...