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Maison Martin Margiela

French

Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.

Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”

Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.

Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.

Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988. 

Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.

The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.

While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.

“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”

John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.

Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.

MartinMargiela 1990 1stRetrospectiveCollection1994 Sheer Black Convertible Apron
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
As a variation of the traditional waiter-style apron that Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela reworked with his eponymous Maison Martin Margiela since its first collection for Spring/Summer 1989, this minimalist convertible transparent black chiffon rectangular garment was part of his Spring 1994 collection. The iconic corner-stitched textural white-cotton brand label is stenciled with seemingly contradictory text referencing an earlier Fall 1990 collection. Instead of the blank label that had become internationally recognized among progressive-fashion buyers during the brand's initial five years, this black print was added in this manner for only one collection during its founder's tenure. This distinct typography identifies it a one of his favorites that he re-editioned from his first 10 fashion shows. This season-less self-curated retrospective collection without any new designs was unprecedented in the ready-to-wear fashion industry, which sold only newly-designed clothes typically two to five times annually. In the early 1990s, this old-made-new-again collection was astonishing for a Paris-based high-end brand, for which any lack of fresh designs for Spring had otherwise been attributed to the loss of an artistic director or the outbreak of war. Nevertheless, there are subtle differences of color, material and draping possibilities that make our re-edition unique from the 1990 apron and from later "replicas", which was the term that Margiela printed on a different kind of label for his second self-curated retrospective in Spring 1999 following 10 more collections. Aside from the text-printed brand label with four characteristic hand-sewn corner stitches, the only other element that unified Margiela's first collection of favorites was that all the items were overdyed a darker color so that the clothes were various shades of grey, blue or black depending on the original color of the textile and how much dye the thread/yarn absorbed. The first Margiela apron...
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1990s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

MAISON MARGIELA black canvas TABI LOW TOP Sneakers Shoes 37.5
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Zürich, CH
100% authentic Maison Margiela low-top Tabi sneakers in black canvas with white rubber sole. Have been worn once inside and are in virtually new condition. Measurements Imprinted S...
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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

Couture 1990 MartinMargiela Unique Openwork Mohair Knit Snap&Tie Convertible Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
With Belgian former couture-fashion designer Martin Margiela's original blank-white textural-cotton corner-sewn label from the early 1990s visible above the prominent knit-hole, this openwork yarn top that is clearly a one-of-a-kind "Line 0" Artisanal garment by Maison Martin Margiela is crocheted from a brown soft animal-hair blend into a see-through changeante pattern recalling a collapsed spiderweb. A prominent European dealer sold a similarly designed but longer deconstructed openwork grey cape that also features a circular knit hole in a mohair-blend. Its remaining additional tag indicates that it was produced by Margielas' longtime Italian knitter Miss Deanna for the Autumn-Hiver 1993-1994 collection. Further, we have found similar one-of-a-kind Margiela openwork-knit and unraveling pieces, as well as one with oversized snaps like the fasteners on our top, dating back to his 1992 collections. Suggesting it could have been from an earlier collection, Antwerp's fashion museum MoMu featured a pale deconstructed mohair knit sweater dating from 1990 in its major Martin Margiela 20-year retrospective, which was produced in collaboration with the designer during his final year at the house in 2008. Based on other Margiela couture pieces with more than one remaining identification tag, the design of our cardigan without a remaining text tag began as a vintage top collected by Martin Margiela to upcycle or reproduce, and/or it was made-to-order by Miss Deanna before he finished it to some degree with his Paris-based team. Our knit fastens with pompon-tipped yarn ties, along with two signature silver oversized-snap buttons, which most noticeably appeared on Margiela tops in 1994 for a collection that was inspired by toy-doll wardrobes and included human-sized reproductions of actual miniatures. For price comparison, another 1stDibs dealer currently lists a silver-oversized-snap-fastening brown faux-leather windbreaker "doll" jacket by Maison Martin Margiela for upwards of $7,000. Also on 1stDibs, two other Margiela 1990s...
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1990s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela Cape Back Jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous dramatic black fine wool jacket from Martin Margiela. It is collarless with long sleeves, a hidden button front closing and 2 front patch pockets. The back is stunning ...
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Early 2000s Danish Maison Martin Margiela

Borsa a tracolla Maison Margiela anni 90
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Basaluzzo, IT
Borsa a tracolla da collezione Maison Margiela "Old Margiela". In pelle effetto invecchiato, collezione 6, 3 scomparti in ottime condizioni Misure 30x34
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1990s Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela Geometric Draped Top
By Maison Martin Margiela, Maiscon Martin Margiella
Located in Water Mill, NY
A gorgeous sleeveless top in a beautiful teal green from Martin Margiela. It has a V neckline, side zipper and draping panels on the front and over one shoulder. The back is simple. ...
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Early 2000s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

MartinMargiela Couture 1998 Artisanal Lingerie & WorkOnPaper Line0 WhiteBoxedSet
By Martin Margiella, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
As conceptual art while he transitioned to French artisan-house Hermes artistic director in 1998, Belgian Martin Margiela--whose creations today debut in the setting of a contemporar...
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1990s French Maison Martin Margiela

2003 MARGIELA RUNWAY trench coat with iridescent exposed lining and cut belt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Very rare, deconstructed trench coat with 'exposed' iridescent lining, 'cut' waist belt and 'missing' buttons with exposed threads designed by Martin Margiela dating to spring of 20...
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Early 2000s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

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Maison Martin Margiela Sale Prices

Sold DateSold PriceCategoryPeriod
2025$1,553Evening Dresses, Evening Gowns21st Century and Contemporary
2025$3,025Coats and OuterwearEarly 2000s
2025$950Jackets2010s
2025$2,756Shirts1990s
2025$630Cocktail Dresses, Tunics2010s
2025$1,000Cocktail Dresses21st Century and Contemporary
2025$235Flat Front PantsEarly 2000s
2025$249JeansEarly 2000s
2025$530Evening Dresses and Gowns2010s
2025$9,905Waist Belts1990s
2025$60BlousesEarly 2000s
2025$363Shoes21st Century and Contemporary
2025$2,800Coats and Outerwear, JacketsLate 20th Century
2025$12,000Suits, Outfits and Ensembles1990s
2025$1,900Multi-Strand Necklaces1990s
2025$10,341Evening Dresses and Gowns, Jackets1990s
2025$1,800Raincoats2010s
2025$525Pants2010s
2024$270Pencil Skirts20th Century
2024$350Shoes2010s
$2,433
Average sold price of items in the past 12 months
$60-$13,776
Sold price range of items in the past 12 months

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Maison Martin Margiela fashion for sale on 1stDibs.

Find an extraordinary range of authentic Maison Martin Margiela fashion available on 1stDibs. If you’re browsing our collection of unique vintage and designer fashion to elevate your daily look or to introduce new colors to the dazzling formal wear in your wardrobe, this designer’s body of work includes elements of red, blue, purple and other tones. Customers who are interested in this designer might also find the work of Stella McCartney, Emanuel Ungaro, and Donatella Versace appealing. On 1stDibs, find haute couture, vintage and designer Maison Martin Margiela fashion from top boutiques around the world. Maison Martin Margiela fashion prices can differ depending upon time period and other attributes. On 1stDibs, the price for these items starts at $60 and tops out at $38,481, while the average work can sell for $850.
Questions About Maison Martin Margiela
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    John Galliano is currently creative director of the French fashion house Maison Margiela, previously called Maison Martin Margiela. In the past, he has been the creative director for Givenchy and Christian Dior. Browse a range of expertly vetted Maison Margiela pieces from top sellers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    The key to spotting fake Maison Martin Margiela products is quality. The Maison Margiela brand is known for designer-level craftsmanship and materials. An authentic Maison Margiela product should have neat, even stitching, a crisp logo and high level of attention to detail. Shop an array of expertly vetted Maison Margiela pieces from top boutiques on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Maison Martin Margiela, now simply called Maison Margiela, is a French fashion house founded in 1988. It was first founded by Belgian designer Martin Margiela and takes inspiration from avant-garde styling. On 1stDibs, find a range of authentic Maison Margiela pieces.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 16, 2024
    The story of what happened to Maison Martin Margiela is one of changes in creative direction. In 2009, Martin Margiela left the celebrated fashion house that he founded, and during the subsequent years, the brand lacked a creative director to guide its work. That changed in 2014, when John Galliano took on the role. On 1stDibs, explore a diverse assortment of Maison Martin Margiela apparel and accessories.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    The upscale sporty style of Maison Martin Margiela sneakers gives them versatile styling possibilities. While how you wear them is up to personal preference, they can be dressed up with a breezy sundress, paired with classic jeans and a tee, or dressed down with joggers and a tank. Shop a selection of Maison Margiela sneakers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertOctober 15, 2024
    Yes, Maison Margiela is real. Belgian designer Martin Margiela founded the luxury fashion house in 1988. His pieces captured the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. The notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009. John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014, and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015. On 1stDibs, shop a variety of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories.
  • 1stDibs ExpertMarch 15, 2024
    Yes, Maison Margiela is well known. In fact, the fashion house's clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions in recent years. Founder Martin Margiela has gained acclaim for toying with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today through pieces like his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies and his Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels. On 1stDibs, shop a diverse assortment of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 26, 2024
    Opinions on how Maison Margiela shoes fit vary. Many online reviewers state that the luxury fashion house's footwear runs true to size, but a small number state that they run small. To ensure a comfortable fit, the best approach is to measure your foot and compare it to the brand's official sizing chart prior to selecting a size. Find an assortment of Maison Margiela shoes on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    No, Maison Margiela is not owned by L’Oréal. The Italian company OTB Group owns Maison Margiela as of January 2022. L'Oréal is a separate French company. On 1stDibs, shop a range of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories from some of the world’s top sellers.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 21, 2024
    Yes, Maison Margiela is a luxury brand. Established by Belgian designer Martin Margiela in 1988, the fashion house is known for its avant-garde approach to design, and its runway shows often challenge prevailing style conventions. Many celebrities are fans of the brand, including Rihanna, Cardi B, Doja Cat, Paul Bettany, Megan Fox and Kendall Jenner. On 1stDibs, explore a selection of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories.
  • 1stDibs ExpertJune 6, 2024
    No, Maison Margiela is not an Italian brand. The luxury fashion house is actually French. Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela founded the brand in 1988 in Paris with fellow designer Jenny Meirens. Today, the maison maintains its headquarters in the city. However, the Italian corporation OTB Group now owns it. On 1stDibs, shop a selection of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories.
  • 1stDibs ExpertAugust 8, 2024
    The difference between MM6 and Maison Margiela comes down to focus. Maison Margiela is the main couture line produced by the French luxury fashion house of the same name. MM6 is a diffusion line of contemporary sportswear priced more economically to appeal to a younger demographic. Find a collection of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories on 1stDibs.

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