Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.
Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.
The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
Martin Margiela White Shirt with Elaborate Cutout Back
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A gorgeous white cotton shirt from Martin Margiela. It has long sleeves with cuffs, a shirt collar and button front. The back is stunning in a chevron pattern of the same fabric lea...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 00's Rare and iconi artisanal customized jeans
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
00's rare and iconic artisanal customized jeans by Maison Martin Margiela Two pockets at front 100% cotton
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 00's Iconic Limited Edition Tabi Boots
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
2000's iconic limited edition tabi boots by Maison Martin Margiela. Nailed wooden heels. N' 105/150. The composition is 100% leather.
Maison Margiela Artisanal Extended Jacket. Spring/Summer 2010
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
Rare and collectible Maison Margiela Artisanal Extended Jacket from Spring/Summer 2010. A lightweight crisp wool or wool blend is used for th...
Martin Margiela Black Shiny Polyurethane Maxi Dress with Waist Cut Outs
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous shirny black polyurethane ankle length dress by Martin Margiela. It is a crew neck from the front which turn into narrow straps in the back onto which the front and back a...
MAISON MARGIELA black nylon 50-50 LOW TOP Sneakers Shoes 38
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Zürich, CH
These 100% authentic Maison Margiela 50-50 sneakers offer a fresh take on retro-inspired style. Crafted from black malleable nylon and soft suede, they blend comfort with subtle soph...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA FW 96 Iconic and rare leather ensemble
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
Fall Winter 1996 iconic and rare leather ensemble by Maison Martin Margiela Raw cut sleeveless dress with V neckline High waist leggings 100% leather Leggings upper part 91% cotton 9...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA SS 94 Artisanal Leather Mini Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
Spring Summer 1994 rare and iconic artisanal customized leather mini dress by Maison Martin Margiela. Made with a reversed vintage trench. String and buttons closure at back. The com...
unworn 1999 MARTIN MARGIELA sheer 'crushed' black RUNWAY skirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
This is an intentionally “crushed” sheer black skirt from Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring 1999 collection. Made from lightweight chiffon, the skirt h...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA FW 07 Rare cape dress with oversize structured shoulders
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
Rare Fall Winter 2007 cape dress with oversize structured shoulders by Maison Martin Margiela Buttons closure at back Two inner pockets at front Tubular scarf Fully lined 79% viscos...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 00'S Iconic and rare artisanal jeans with leather patches
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
00's iconic and rare artisanal black jeans with leather patches by Maison Martin Margiela Three pockets 100% cotton 100% leather
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA FW 90 Extremely rare slashed felted long sleeves top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
Extremely rare Fall Winter 1990 slashed felted long sleeves top by Maison Martin Margiela 72% wool 28% polyamide
Couture MaisonMartinMargiela Artisanal Lingerie&WorkOnPaper White Boxed Set 1998
By Maison Martin Margiela, Martin Margiella
Located in Chicago, IL
As conceptual art while he transitioned to French luxury house Hermes Creative Director in 1998, Belgian Martin Margiela--whose creations today debut in the setting of a contemporary...
Martin Margiela New Strapless Color Block Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous light taupe silk and black net strapless gown from Martin Margiela top line collection. It falls in an A line from top to hem- taupe down to the mid calf then black netti...
$1,680Sale Price|40% Off
1990 MARTIN MARGIELA Deni Cler cigarette sleeve blazer RUNWAY jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
MARTIN MARGIELA A blue/gray wool blazer with tone-on-tone stripes, Spring-Summer 1990. This exceptionally rare blazer from Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring 1990 collection exemplifie...
2010 Maison Margiela fur boat neck cape
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, Lombardia
2010 Maison Margiela fur boat neck cape This 2010 Maison Margiela cape is crafted from rich fur and features an elegant boat neck construction tha...
Maison Margiela by Martin S/S 2008 Black Leather Cut Out Boots
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Caserta, IT
- Designed by Martin Margiela - Spring Summer 2008 - Black Leather Cut-Out Boots - Very good condition - High square heels - Made in Italy - Materials: Leather - Size: 37 IT - Coming...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA early 90's iconic and rare knitted turtleneck mini dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
Early 90's iconic and rare short sleeve turtleneck mini dress with anatomical stitchings by Maison Martin Margiela Adjustable strings on the inside Manufactured by FUZZI S.P.A. 100% ...
$187Sale Price|30% Off
Maison Margiela Fringe Trimmed Ankle Boots
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Cool and quirky Maison Margiela ankle boots - bought for £695 and unworn. They have a softly draped, fabric swagged covering with structured inner and irregular fringed trim to top. ...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA SS 95 Rare "Reproduction" of a 70's Transparent Neglige
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
Spring Summer 1995 iconic and rare "Reproduction" of a 70's transparent negligé by Maison Martin Margiela. Buttons on the front. The composition tag is missing, seems to be made of ...
Hermès by Martin Margiela Vintage Circa (1997-2003) Wool Dress
By Hermès, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Antwerpen, Vlaams Gewest
Hermès by Martin Margiela Vintage Circa (1997-2003) Wool Dress Martin Margiela served as Hermès’ creative director for women’s ready-to-wear, shaping 12 iconic and unforgettable coll...
MaisonMartinMargiela PlungingVneck BiasRuched HighSlit Halter Black Dress ss2008
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
From one of the last fashion collections for French Maison Martin Margiela by its legendary founder Belgian artist Martin Margiela before he prematurely retired in 2009, this asymmet...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA FW 08 Rare and iconic coat with structured shoulders
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
Rare and iconic Fall Winter 2008 coat with structured shoulders by Maison Martin Margiela Inner shoulder pads Buttons and belt closure Two pockets 70% wool 30% cotton
Vintage 1990 MARTIN MARGIELA grey runway peacoat with cigarette shoulders
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Very rare early Martin Margiela charcoal-grey wool peacoat dating to Fall 1990, as seen on the runway. The coat is cut with narrow “cigarette” sleeves and shaped through curved anato...
$320Sale Price|20% Off
rare MAISON MARGIELA 2010 grey wool felt convex sole high heel pumps EU36
By Maison Martin Margiela, MM6 Maison Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
rare MAISON MARGIELA 2010 grey wool felt convex sole high heel pumps EU36 Reference: ALCU/A00044 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Collect...
Martin Margiela New Split Leg Pants
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
Beautiful black wool pants from Martin Margiela. They are high waisted with a button waistband, fly front and full legs with 2 vertical splits one larger with a smaller one below it ...
S/S 1999 Maison Margiela “A Doll’s Wardrobe” cotton work pants
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, Lombardia
S/S 1999 Maison Margiela “A Doll’s Wardrobe” cotton work pants These Spring/Summer 1999 Maison Margiela pants come from the iconic “A Doll’s Wardrobe” ...
Maison Martin Margiela Men's Sneaker Gold Ombre Limited Edition 43
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Miami, FL
Mightychic offers Maison Martin Margiela men's Limited Edition Ombre Gold numbered sneaker. Rare to find this fabulous Maison Martin Margiela snea...
Martin Maison Margiela Men's Sneaker Graffiti Print 43
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Miami, FL
Guaranteed authentic Maison Martin Margiela men's graffiti print sneaker. Rare to find this fabulous Maison Martin Margiela sneaker is perfect for th...
Maison Martin Margiela Sac Daim Pentagon Base Beige Suede Bucket Bag by Margiela
By Martin Margiella, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in PARIS, FR
Maison Martin Margiela bag, rigid base with pentagon motif, in slightly pale yellow beige suede, suede interior with 2 compartments, one plated and...
Hermès Set Twillaine FR40 Margiela Grey Silk Cashmere Ensemble UK12 US10 Hermes
By Hermès, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in PARIS, FR
Hermès Fall/Winter 1999 collection ensemble by Martin Margiela, Twillaine style, featuring the "Feux de l'Hiver" (Winter Fires) motif by Christiane Vauzelles (a motif originally rele...
Maison Margiela Blue Metallic Patent Leather Mary Jane Tabi Pumps
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Maison Margiela Blue Metallic Patent Leather Mary Jane Tabi Pumps are a striking and avant-garde footwear choice that seamlessly blends bold design with...
Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal "Super Bowl" Vintage Sweatshirt Bag Ss 2001
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is thrilled to offer a vintage Margiela artisanal "Super Bowl" sweatshirt bag from the spring 2001 collection. This bag is constructed from a vintage Super Bowl ...
Couture MaisonMartinMargiela ArtisanalLine0 UpcycledSocks Overdyed Pullover 1994
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
The design of this edition-of-two couture 1994 Maison Martin Margiela "Artisanal" knit pullover was based on a sweater assembled from a vintage pair of deconstructed dancer-leggings ...
Maison Margiela 50s Replica Harvard Blazer - '00s
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, Lombardia
Experience vintage elegance with the Maison Margiela 50s Replica Harvard Blazer. Crafted from 100% wool in regal navy blue, this blazer from the Replica label is a reproduction of a ...
Maison Martin Margiela 2014 ecru silk shirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in CANNES, FR
Maison Martin Margiela 2014 Ecru silk shirt, collar with two faux pearls. Size 44 Italian.
2009 Martin Margiela Mirrored Disco Jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Austin, TX
2009 Martin Margiela Mirrored Disco Jacket Look #35 from Spring 2009 collection by Martin Margiela Can be worn as cape or jacket Condition: Very good, no...
A/W2006 Maison Margiela faded bomber jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, Lombardia
A/W2006 Maison Margiela faded bomber jacket This A/W2006 Maison Margiela bomber jacket presents a distinctive faded finish that enhances its utilitarian character. Crafted from poly...
Maison Martin Margiela Eagle Print Long Sleeve Sweatshirt Novelty Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Diego, CA
Amazing MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA eagle print long sleeve sweatshirt dress!!! Bald eagle print on the left side with vibrant colors of green, yellow, pu...
$810Sale Price|55% Off
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA ARTISANAL 2003 Runway brown deconstructed sleeves vest
By Maison Martin Margiela, MM6 Maison Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA ARTISANAL 2003 Runway brown deconstructed sleeves vest Reference: TGAS/B02235 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Collection: Artisanal - Fall Win...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA FW 95 Iconic and rare pink leather sleeves
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
Iconic and rare Fall Winter 1995 pink leather sleeves by Maison Martin Margiela Leather covered buttons 100% leather
Maison Martin Margiela Black Leather Tabi Boots With High Heels 2000
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is thrilled to present a pair of vintage Maison Martin Margiela black leather tabi boots with high heels, featuring five interior silver hook closures at the bac...
A/W2004 MAISON MARGIELA artisanal reconstructed jacket with metal chains
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, Lombardia
Maison Margiela A/W 2004 Artisanal reconstructed jacket with metal chains A highly collectible piece from Maison Margiela's Artisanal line, Autumn/Winter 2004. This reconstructed ja...
Maison Margiela by John Galliano Line 10 Deconstructed Wool Skirt, F/W 2020
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Berlin, DE
From John Galliano’s visionary menswear line at Maison Margiela, this deconstructed skirt debuted as part of the Fall/Winter 2020 runway collection (Line 10). The piece embodies Gall...
Maison Martin Margiela Autumn Winter 1997
By Martin Margiella, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Shibuya-Ku, 13
Shoulder : Raglan Sleeve Front Chest : 58cm Sleeve : 82cm(from neckline to wrist) Left Length : 110cm Back Length : 42cm Purple WJA00002133
2000s Maison Margiela artisanal deconstructed denim jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, Lombardia
2000s Maison Margiela artisanal deconstructed denim jacket This Maison Margiela jacket from the 2000s epitomizes the brand's avant-garde approach to fashion with its deconstructed a...
Maison Martin Margiela Vintage NWT Taupe Satin Cummerbund
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
Maison Martin Margiela Vintage NWT White Satin Cummerbund with an elastic back and hook and eye closure. Circa 2000. New in Box.
Maison Margiela Trench Coat - '10s
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, Lombardia
This classic Maison Margiela Trench Coat is a must-have addition to any wardrobe. Made of 100% cotton in a khaki color, the open-front design and waist belt allow for a customizable ...
Margiela artisanal black leather glove top, ss 2001
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Martin Margiela, iconic artisanal glove top made from an assortment of vintage leather gloves. Halter neck, open back with snap button closures....
Rare Maison Margiela Celestial Solar Eclipse Dress Gown NWT!
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Maison Margiela Fall 2017 black and white silk gown showcasing the partial solar eclipse of the 1963 Bar Harbor photographic print at front. Very celestial. Boasts a dramatic high neckline complimented by dolman sleeves with gathered waistline extending into a lovely long silk skirt...
Margiela Artisanal black glove top and pleated skirt runway ensemble, ss 2001
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Martin Margiela; Runway ensemble (LOOK #10) Artisanal shirt-front made out of black leather gloves and oversized black artisanal skirt made out of vintage pleated skirts...
Martin Margiela Lighting Skyline Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
Martin Margiela Lighting Skyline Dress in black rayon/cotton with printed lightening erupting over an urban skyline. Simple T shirt lines, from the MM6...
Martin Margiela runway three piece ensemble, fw 2001
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Martin Margiela three piece runway ensemble comprising: man's car coat in leather with embossed details, chiffon tassel dress and thigh high wedge Tabi boots...
$6,630Sale Price|35% Off
MARTIN MARGIELA 1990's Vintage black silver handpainted tabi boot EU39
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MARTIN MARGIELA 1990's Vintage black silver handpainted tabi boot EU39 Reference: TGAS/A04278 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Model: T...
Maison Margiela Red Leather Platform Croc Clogs 39
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Maison Margiela Red Leather Platform Croc Clogs in size 39. These shoes feature perforated leather similar to the look of Crocs, but with the style of clog...
MaisonMartinMargiela MissDeanna Knit GoldLurexThreaded FauxDipDye Ombre Pullover
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
When Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela debuted gold-Lurex knits while French luxury-goods Hermes Womenswear Artistic Director, simultaneously in Fall 1999, he introduced at his eponymous Paris-based Maison Martin Margiela a collection featuring 1970s-inspired Lurex-accented sweaters, along with oversized loose clothes intended for either women or men. Including a distinct black-printed white-folded tag stitched into a seam by Italian experimental knitter Miss Deanna, who created many memorable knits under Margiela's artistic direction, this Margiela sparkly finely-knit viscose-and-Lurex-blend long-sleeve pullover is a minimalist unisex design with narrow ribbed trim at the crewneck, wrists and hem. Its "Made In Italy" size 44 with a 15.5-inch shoulderline is without darts and drapes like a one-size-fits-most stretch T-shirt. The lightweight sweater was knit from pale-gold, grey and blue yarns into an ombre pattern like a dip-dye technique associated with fabric. Yet the additional glittery orange-tone metallic thread (difficult to photograph due to reflections) interspersed throughout was clearly not dyed or printed. Conversely, Margiela's Fall 1999 Artisanale Line 0 collection that was produced instead by his Parisian team explored the textural effects of hand-painting fabrics, such as the unisex T-shirts that were striped or obscured with thick silver paint. Earlier in the 1990s, Margiela had reproduced some vintage...
Martin Margiela Cape Back Jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous dramatic black fine wool jacket from Martin Margiela. It is collarless with long sleeves, a hidden button front closing and 2 front patch pockets. The back is stunning ...
1992 MARTIN MARGIELA black shrunken wool sweater
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Very rare Martin Margiela black wool short-sleeve sweater dating to fall of 1992. Designed in a shrunken, fitted silhouette with a ribbed crew neckline, hem, and cuffs. The knit has ...
Martin Margiela black silk chiffon evening wrap dress with metal s-hook, ss 1999
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Introducing an archival Martin Margiela evening wrap dress, a masterpiece from the Spring-Summer 1999 collection that embodies the brand's timeless elegance and innovative design. Th...
2006 Martin Marginal MM6 Black Multi way Technical Zip Pocket Jacket / Blazer
By MM6 Maison Margiela, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Sheffield, GB
2006 Martin Marginal MM6 Black Multi way Technical Chrome Zip Pocket Jacket / Blazer. This Technical Jacket features detachable pockets that can be moved and adjusted to offer a rang...