Throughout the early 20th century, Marcus & Co. established a reputation as one of the finest American producers of Art Nouveau jewelry. The firm’s innovative techniques included the use of plique-à-jour enameling. During the 1900s, this rare method was used by only three other jewelry companies in the United States — Tiffany & Co., Riker Bros. and Whiteside and Blank.
Marcus & Co. was founded in 1892, in New York City, by Herman Marcus and his son William. Herman was born and raised in Germany, where he worked as a jeweler for Ellemeyer, the court jewelers of Dresden, before moving to the United States in 1850.
After arriving in New York City, Herman worked as a designer at several prestigious luxury firms, including Ball, Black & Co., Tiffany & Co. and was a partner at Starr and Marcus before he went into business with William. Later, they were joined by Herman’s other son, George.
Herman worked with his sons until his death in 1899, when William and George expanded the firm to include a silversmithing department to make serveware. However, Marcus & Co. focused mainly on jewelry design and manufacturing, offering Revival-style pieces.
In 1900, the company exhibited a series of striking orchid motif brooches at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. The brooches attracted critical acclaim for their plique-à-jour enameling and intricate detail — characteristics that would become Marcus & Co.’s signature.
The company’s Art Nouveau jewelry took shape during the 1920s and 1930s. Cocktail rings, engagement rings, necklaces and cufflinks featured fine diamonds, natural pearls and gems rarely seen during that period, such as peridots, zircons, spinels and chrysoberyls. Marcus & Co.’s designs were comparable by critics to fine art jewelry made by René Lalique and attracted high-profile clientele like business tycoon John D. Rockefeller.
Despite Marcus & Co.’s success, the firm closed briefly during World War II. In 1962, they merged with the company Black, Starr & Frost.
Marcus & Co. pieces are still highly coveted among jewelry collectors. The firm’s Art Nouveau plique-à-jour accessories, a technique that sees enamel powder applied to cells on a thin sheet of copper foil or mica and then etched away — instead applying the enamel directly to metal — are particularly collectible. In 2011, a Morning Glory plique-à-jour pendant brooch and chain made in 1900 sold at a Sotheby’s auction for $302,500.
On 1stDibs, discover antique Marcus & Co. brooches, rings and decorative objects.
Marcus & Co. Art Deco Cloisonné Enamel Desk Clock
By Marcus & Co.
Located in New Orleans, LA
Art Deco Cloisonné Enamel Desk Clock Case: Attributed to Marcus & Co. Movement: Mathey-Tissot Circa 1930 This exceptionally rare Art Deco desk ...
Coral, Lapis Lazuli, Multi-gemstone, Platinum, Enamel
Omega, a Wood and Enamel Art Deco Eight Day Desk Clock
By Omega
Located in Buenos Aires, Olivos
Omega. A wood and enamel Art Deco eight day desk clock Singed Omega. Polished wooden case, two polychrome enamel panels with floral and geometric motif, gilt case back, dial signed. Very good conditions. Working conditions. It just been cleaned. Rare example of these Art Deco Enamel Clocks...
Brass, Enamel
$2,089Sale Price|30% Off
H 3.45 in W 3.5 in D 2.75 in
AARON L. DENNISON 1929 Art Deco Guilloche Blue Enamel Desk Clock In Sterling
By Aaron Lufkin Dennison
Located in Miami, FL
A desk clock with blue enamel designed by Aaron Lufkin Dennison. This is an exceptional desk clock, made in Birmingham England during the art deco period, back in the 1929. The craf...
Sterling Silver, Enamel, Silver
Tiffany & Co. 18kt Yellow Gold and Enamel Small Desk Clock 1920's
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Long Beach, CA
FACTORY / HOUSE: Longines for Tiffany & Company STYLE / REFERENCE: Art Deco / Small Desk Clock METAL / MATERIAL: 18Kt Solid Yellow Gold with Kiln Fire...
Gold
$26,250Sale Price|30% Off
H 3.07 in W 2.72 in D 1.22 in
CARTIER Paris 1920 Art Deco Chinoiserie 18kt Desk Clock Nephrite Jade & Enamel
By Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
A desk clock designed by Cartier. An impressive and beautiful desk clock, created in Paris France by the house of Cartier, during the art deco period, back in the 1920. This stunning rare piece has been designed with Chinoiserie patterns and carefully crafted up with parts in yellow gold of 18 karats and carved nephrite green jadeite jade. Accented with applications of navy blue enamel and fitted on top, with a hinged retractable handle. The movement is mechanical It is accompanied with the associated original key for the winding. The dial is silver with guilloche, Roman numerals with gold hands and inscribed, Cartier. Weight: 320.95 Grams, (205.74 Dwt). Measurements: 69 mm by 31 mm by 78 mm (2.72 x 1.22 x 3.07 Inches). Hallmarks: Stamped with French marks, five times with the head of the eagle for the assay and guaranty of the gold, two times with the maker's mark JM inside of a lozange cartouche and signed on the reverse, "CARTIER 1649". Literature: Olivier Bachet & Alain Cartier, Cartier Exceptional...
Jade, Gold, Silver, Enamel
$1,100
H 7.75 in W 6 in D 3.75 in
Vintage Art Deco Telechron Electroalarm Skyscraper Desk Clock Bakelite
By Paul Frankl
Located in St.Petersburg, FL
A beautiful Art Deco bakelite desk clock with alarm. Model 700 made ca' 1930's. In very good original condition, the clock is running and alarm works, though not tested for accuracy....
Brass
$895
H 3.625 in W 3.5 in D 0.125 in
Swiss Art Deco Enamel-Border 8-Day Desk Clock, c. 1925–1935 *Luminescence*
By Cartier
Located in Atlanta, GA
A refined small-format Art Deco desk clock with an unmistakably Swiss 8-day movement, presented in a square gilt-bronze case with a fold-out strut back. The front is framed by a cris...
Bronze, Enamel
Art Deco Brass And Enamel Clock, English, c1930
Located in Devon, England
For your consideration is this superb Art Deco Copper And Enamel Clock, c1930. Made from solid brass with a patterned border which is filled with green black and white enamel. Full w...
Brass, Enamel
$1,048Sale Price|30% Off
H 4.25 in W 7 in D 2.25 in
SILVERCRAFT 1920 Art Deco Cloisonne Enamel Desk Clock In Gilt Brass & Bakelite
By Farber Bros., Silvercraft
Located in Miami, FL
An art-deco desk clock designed by Silvercraft. This is an elegant vintage Art Deco desk clock made by the Silvercraft Clock Co. and retailed in New York City by the Farber Bros, a ...
Brass, Bronze, Enamel
Antique Cloisonne Enamel and Gilt Bronze Clock Set
Located in London, GB
This wonderful cloisonne enamel clock set is an artful piece of design in the neoclassical style: each piece is elaborately applied with turquoi...
Ormolu, Bronze, Enamel
Tiffany & Co. Art Deco Desk Clock with Alarm Feature, 1950's
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Long Beach, CA
FACTORY / HOUSE: Tiffany & Co. by Concord STYLE / REFERENCE: Alarm METAL / MATERIAL: Nickle CIRCA / YEAR: 1950's DIMENSIONS / SIZE: Length X Diameter MOVEMENT / CALIBER: Manual Wind...
Nickel
$5,999
H 20 in W 23 in D 7 in
Seldom Seen Art Deco Neon Hexagon Clock, 'The Electric Clock Co. Cleveland
By Cleveland Clock Co.
Located in Buffalo, NY
By far. one of the best examples I have ever owned!!! Unmolested, totally original, 1930s Art Deco 2-color neon clock, manufactured by The Electric Clock Company, Clevland Ohio,Trul...
Metal, Steel
$1,350
H 4.88 in W 3.5 in D 0.75 in
Zenith Watch Co., Swiss Art Deco Metal Dore and Cloisonne Enamel Clock, 1920s
Located in New York, NY
Zenith SA is a Swiss luxury watchmaker. The company was started in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot at the age of 22, in Le Locle in the canton of Neuchâtel. Zenith w...
Metal