A scrappy, self-made artist who transformed turbo shells into decadent earrings and crystal chessmen into bold bracelets, Seaman Schepps (1881–1972) tirelessly worked his way up from the tenements of New York’s Lower East Side to become “America’s Court Jeweler.”
Born to immigrant parents who named him for the Seamen’s Bank for Savings that his mother could see from the hospital — or so the legend goes — Schepps dropped out of school at the age of 14 and never had any formal jewelry training. He later moved to California, where he opened his first jewelry shop in 1904. In 1921, he returned to New York to build on the success he’d begun to enjoy as a jeweler on the West Coast, but it wasn’t long before his Manhattan house, which counted Broadway stars and theater patrons among its clientele, was hit hard by the stock market crash of 1929. Schepps used this disruption to rethink his approach to jewelry, debuting a new store in 1934 on Madison Avenue, where he would make his mark in playful custom adornments.
While many high-end jewelers of his era focused on the purest and most valuable gemstones, Schepps chose his materials for their color and shape, elevating flawed stones others disregarded in collage-like formations involving unconventional materials such as fine wood, coral, seashells and flea-market finds. Passersby of his New York City shop could find a frog-shaped brooch carved from rosewood, a vintage snuff bottle broken into links for a bracelet and loose-drilled pearls plugged with diamonds. Schepps’s whimsical pieces found fans in fashion icons who appreciated his unique statements, including Doris Duke, Andy Warhol and the Duchess of Windsor.
Following Schepps’s death in 1972, his daughter, jewelry designer Patricia S. Vaill, ran the jewelry house for two decades before it was taken over by Jay Bauer and Anthony Hopenhajm of Trianon jewelry. Following the closure of the company’s Park Avenue store in November 2020, sales for Seaman Schepps is now based in its boutique location out of Palm Beach, Florida, where the legendary brand carries forth its founder’s spirited designs.
On 1stDibs, find a distinctive collection of vintage Seaman Schepps jewelry, including brooches, bracelets and other accessories.
Seaman Schepps Retro Multigem Ring
By Seaman Schepps
Located in Darnestown, MD
This multigem Retro ring by Seaman Schepps is most likely custom made. The largest stone is a crescent shaped moonstone. Next largest is a diamond of 1.2 carats; H color; VS1 quality...
Diamond, Moonstone, Ruby, Zircon, 14k Gold
Ceylon Sapphire Ring by SEAMAN SCHEPPS
By Seaman Schepps
Located in New York, NY
Unique design spectacular Retro ring by American designer Seaman Schepps, 10 oval ceylon sapphires approximately 40 carats 3 diamonds 0.50 carats
Sapphire
MultiGem and Diamond Cocktail Ring in 18k White Gold
Located in Honolulu, HI
Item Specifications: Metal: 18k White Gold Style: Statement Ring Ring Size: 8.25 (resizing available for a fee) Total Weight: 8.4 Grams Gemstones: pink, yellow, blue topaz, pu...
Diamond, Amethyst, Tanzanite, Topaz, Blue Topaz, 18k Gold, White Gold
Yellow Gold Aquamarine Pearl and Diamond Retro Ring
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
A aquamarine, pearl and diamond ring in a floral design in yellow gold from the Retro period, 1940s. The ring centres a big aquamarine, ca. 16 carats and it is accentuated by round b...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Pearl, Yellow Gold
Decorative Diamond Retro Ring, 1950s
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
A highly decorative diamond retro ring, ca. 1950s. The ring is in 14k yellow gold and has a very fine craftsmanship. The profile has a swirly curvaceous design while the top of the r...
Diamond, 14k Gold
1960s Seaman Schepps Diamond Emerald Flower Ring
By Seaman Schepps
Located in London, GB
Vintage diamond and emerald flower ring by Seaman Schepps. Set to centre with a round old cut diamond in an open back rubover setting with an appro...
Diamond, Emerald, Platinum
$15,750Sale Price|25% Off
Ceylon Sapphire and Old Cut Diamond Cluster Ring
Located in Armadale, Victoria
Stunning ultra fine cushion shaped Ceylon sapphire and old cut diamond cluster ring set in 18ct yellow gold and white gold. Modern ring ma...
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold
Seaman Schepps Amethyst and Peridot Ring
By Seaman Schepps
Located in Darnestown, MD
Seaman Schepps three stone flush mounted ring. The center stone is a peridot measuring 7/16" in width and from front to back. On either side is an amethyst measuring 5/16". The ring ...
18k Gold
Rare Seaman Schepps Diamond Natural Coral 18K Yellow Gold Bombe Statement Ring
By Seaman Schepps
Located in New York, NY
Rare, early Seaman Schepps diamond, natural coral and 18k yellow gold bombe statement ring 1930's Fabulous, large Seaman Schepps cocktail ring with a central oval natural coral measu...
Coral, Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$3,500Sale Price|20% Off
Fire Opal Ring Retro Certified 5.5 Carats Circa 1940s
Located in Northampton, MA
A spectacular and utterly unique 14K yellow gold ring from the Retro era (circa 1940s) featuring six cabochons of natural fire opals from Mexico. These gorgeous and highly-prized gems measure from 9.2mm x 6.7mm to 8.8mm x 6mm. They display orange, orange-yellow sand orange-pink coloring. The dazzling gems weigh approximately 5.5 carats. The face of the ring measures 30mm x 28mm, so it's an impressive and bold ring. The interior is marked for 14K gold but there is no maker's mark. Yet the production quality is extraordinary. The gold metalwork is expertly executed and very whimsical and creative. This bold, flashy, and fun ring is a size 7 and you're jeweler could resize it for you. This ring ships with a certificate from Stone Group Labs stating that these are precious fire opals...
Opal, Fire Opal, 14k Gold
Ceylon sapphire and diamond cluster ring by A. Tillander, Finnish, circa 1920.
Located in London, GB
Ceylon sapphire and diamond cluster ring. Set to centre with a cushion shape mixed cut natural unenhanced Ceylon sapphire in an open back rubover setting with a weight of 4.40 carats, further set with ten round old cut diamonds in open back grain and rubover settings with an approximate combined weight of 0.32 carats, decorated with fifty-six round eight cut diamonds in open back grain and rubover settings with a combined weight of 0.56 carats. The total approximate diamond weight is 0.88 carats, to an impressive bombe cluster featuring intricate foliate openwork with millegrain edging, a linear pierced gallery and open backholing, leading to polished conforming shoulders and flowing through to a solid D-shape shank. Marked platinum, maker's mark 'A. Tillander' for A. Tillander, Finnish, circa 1920, accompanied by Edelsteinbefundbericht report #032743. A. Tillander was established by Alexander Tillander...
Ceylon sapphire and diamond cluster ring, American, circa 1960.
Located in London, GB
Ceylon sapphire and diamond cluster ring. Set to centre with an octagonal emerald-cut natural unenhanced Ceylon sapphire in an open back claw setting with a weight of 12.38 carats, f...
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
Seaman Schepps Cabochon Sapphire & Accent Diamonds 18k Yellow Gold Cocktail Ring
By Seaman Schepps
Located in Bernardsville, NJ
Material: 18k Yellow Gold Gemstones: Sapphire Cabochon 22.4 x 19.5 x 12.7mm, Diamond 0.36cttw Size: 7.5-7.75 Weight: 20.88 grams Brand: Seaman Schepps Seaman Schepps is an American ...
Sapphire, Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$55,200Sale Price|20% Off
11 Ct Ceylon Sapphire Diamond Platinum Ring
Located in Chicago, IL
An 11.51 ct old mine cut Ceylon sapphire of a vivid blue color is set in a modern platinum and diamond ring. The diamonds are bright w...
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
2.50 Carat Ceylon Sapphire and Diamond Cluster Ring
Located in London, GB
Here we have a delightful sapphire and diamond cluster ring. A single cushion cut sapphire of Ceylon origin boasting a wondrous cornflower blue colour tone sits slightly risen at the...
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
$3,672Sale Price|20% Off
14K Yellow Gold Retro Diamond Cluster Ring, Multiple Cuts, 1990s
Located in Palm Desert, CA
14 Karat Yellow Gold Multiple Cuts Diamond Ring. The ring features geometric bezel boxes of gold with step, emerald, square, and round-cut diamonds. The diamonds are both bezel and p...
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Seaman Schepps Sapphire, Diamond and Rock Crystal Ring, circa 1940
By Seaman Schepps
Located in London, GB
Sapphire, diamond and rock crystal ring, by Seaman Schepps circa 1940. A platinum and white gold ring vertically set with two hexagonal cabochon sapphires of differing sizes in collet settings with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats, each encircled by a single row of forty eight round eight cut diamonds in bead settings with an approximate total weight of 0.70 carats, saddled over an inverted emerald-cut rock crystal, above an open gallery, flanked by tri-part shoulders, and on a square shank. UK finger size H 1/2. Seaman Schepps was born in New York City’s tenement-dominated Lower East Side in 1881, the son of Hungarian immigrants. Rising from these humble beginnings, he built a business that featured designs which drastically departed from the traditional modes of his day. These adventurous jewels came to define a new style that became popular with the elite of the 1930’s...
Diamond, Rock Crystal, Blue Sapphire, White Gold, Platinum
Rare Seaman Schepps Sapphire Gold Ring
By Seaman Schepps
Located in Chevy Chase, MD
Seaman Schepps oval and round brilliant cut sapphire ring. The sapphires have a total estimated weight of 27.50cts. The design is of the same style as the iconic Seaman Schepps turtle...
Sapphire, 18k Gold
1950s Seaman Schepps Multi-Gemstone Cluster Ring
By Seaman Schepps
Located in New York, NY
A cluster ring of cabochon sapphires, rubies, emeralds and diamonds, in 14k gold. Seaman Schepps.
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold