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Couture 1980s Castelbajac TuxedoSequin BiasCut Cashmere AsymmetricOversized Knit
By Castelbajac, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
Located in Chicago, IL
Uniquely designed as couture by French Jean Charles de Castelbajac in the 1980s in Paris, this oversized soft cashmere-viscose-wool bias-cut Italian-knit black sweater has made-in-Fr...
Category
1980s French Pullovers
Couture 1960 PierreCardinParis Bubble Motif "Creation" Leather Silk Black Gloves
By Pierre Cardin Paris
Located in Chicago, IL
Made in France in 1960 by the futurist fashion designer Pierre Cardin (1922-2020), this "Creation Paris" (all capitals including brand) couture pair of supple kidskin leather black g...
Category
1960s French Gloves
1980s BergdorfGoodman Costa Corseted Strapless Quintessential Little Black Dress
By Victor Costa, Bergdorf Goodman
Located in Chicago, IL
This timeless quintessential corseted,
shirred, ruched and topstitched "little black dress" produced by Victor Costa in the 1980s was made for the high standards of New York's trendsetting Bergdorf Goodman. It was the first U.S. luxury department store to order exclusive special-occasion dresses from this Texas designer and subsequently to give him a namesake in-store boutique. He soon became associated with the feminine glamorous gowns worn by "PYT" (Costa-speak for pretty young things) on the Dallas-based television-series "Dynasty", which idealized status-conscious Texan women mostly via fashion. With a strapless curvaceous sweetheart neckline (spared from '80s shoulder pads!), narrow sinuous folds of crepe silk-blend jersey cross diagonally below the decollete, while contrasting vertical ruching defines the seven bones of the invisible corset structure that is fully lined on the interior.
Under the bust in front below the empire-like peaked high waist, the fitted tucked underlay of the cocktail dress wraps around the back to end as an overlay in front, where the opening on the left side extends to the bodice like a discreet slit. The freely hanging bias-cut overlay in front is gathered underneath each breast for a forgiving central drape that adds additional curves to make the wearer's torso underneath appear in sleek condition despite a potentially less than ideal figure.
The dress closes with a concealed zipper in the center of the back, with exterior hook-and-eye fastening to narrow the waist. There is a second concealed hook-and-eye fastener at the top of the zipper.
Although the only remaining tag is the Costa/Bergdorf label, it is a contemporary U.S.-size 8, which will also suit a large-busted size 6 or a svelte size 10.
Now 88 years old, Victor Costa (b.1935) became widely known by the 1980s in The States for perfecting affordable luxurious gowns that could be mistaken for one-of-a-kind flamboyant designs by foreign couturiers Christian Lacroix, Arnold Scaasi, Oscar de la Renta or Valentino Garavani. Early on, the avid female sketcher...
Category
1980s American Cocktail Dresses
Trifari 1930s Philippe YellowGold HeavyChain Tassel Sautoir Textural Demi Parure
By Alfred Philippe for Trifari
Located in Chicago, IL
Signed "Trifari" with a crown and without a post-1955 U.S.-copyright symbol on all three matching pieces, this likely late-1930s highly-textured yellow-gold-plated demi-parure was designed by American Trifari's French-born head designer Alfred Philippe after he had honed his fine-jewelry craftsmanship while creating luxury parures for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. The set features a heavy tasseled eight-strand chain sautoir necklace and earrings with dropped fluted-ball pendants,
With French-style signed clip fastening, the contrasting-texture two-inch-long earrings each have two twisted fluted round beads in different sizes, with the larger one capped at both ends with additional shapes and textures.
On the necklace, this textural contrast is amplified with the inclusion of many chains. The decorative chain caps and...
Category
Vintage 1930s American Baroque Revival Chain Necklaces
Materials
Gold, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal
1990s France Handcrafted Exotic Fishskin RainHat LeCorre "Luxury Tramp" Fedora
By Jacques
Located in Chicago, IL
With an black exotic fishskin exterior, this Made In France brimmed denim-lined fedora hat that was handcrafted by the acclaimed late French milliner Jacques Le Corre...
Category
1990s French Hats
ChristianLacroix 1980s 4PieceSet Lace TopstitchedSilk Skirt ZipJacket Ensemble
By Christian Lacroix Paris
Located in Chicago, IL
Evoking late-1980s couture with complex construction showcasing a wide variety of sewing techniques and French lace, this like-new "Christian Lacroix Paris Made In France" fuchsia-la...
Category
1980s French Dress and Coat Ensembles
Couture ChristianLacroixParis SilkSatin RareBlackLacquerTop OversizedEvening Bag
By Christian Lacroix Paris
Located in Chicago, IL
Designed to accompany Parisian couture by French Christian Lacroix, this unused late-1980s large pale-celadon-green silk satin, which feature textural black topstitching and a sleek ...
Category
Vintage 1980s French Artisan Bangles
Couture Chanel Pre1955 SignedFrance Gripoix PouredGlass Robert Goosens Earrings
By Maison Gripoix for Chanel
Located in Chicago, IL
This couture handcrafted glass pair of mid-century gold-gilt metal clip earrings are both stamped "France" on their convex ear-pads, which is characteristic of one-of-a-kind designs commissioned by Parisian couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel before a brand signature was added to her costume jewelry around 1955. The construction matches unsigned poured-glass prong-set cabochon, prong-set crystal, and wired faux-pearl jewelry...
Category
Mid-20th Century French Art Deco Clip-on Earrings
Materials
Crystal, Turquoise, Pearl, Gold, Gilt Metal
Couture 1927-1933 ElsaSchiaparelliParis MakerSigned FurFeltSilk Grey Cloche Hat
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Chicago, IL
While sleek cloche hats were the rage in Art-Deco "flapper" fashion, this antique fur felt hat was commissioned by Parisian couturier Elsa Schiaparelli and...
Category
1920s French Hats
HattieCarnegie PostWWII Crystal GoldGiltMesh FlutedBalls Dangle Climber Earrings
By Hattie Carnegie
Located in Chicago, IL
Hattie Carnegie (1886-1956)--one of the leading American entrepreneurs of made-to-order and ready-to-wear fashion for four decades--began producing costume-jewelry parures around WWI...
Category
Mid-20th Century American Baroque Revival Dangle Earrings
Materials
Crystal, Gold, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold, Gold Plate
Bakelite 1930s German ArtDeco GoldRinged EmeraldBallPendants ChainLink Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
Most likely made in Germany during the Art Deco period, this vintage unsigned long heavy 12-pendant gold-gilt chain-link bib necklace features ball charms of gold-ringed emerald-green matte Bakelite. Hanging 13-inches from the back of the neck, the long necklace is constructed with elegant double-ring links, while it fastens with a large toggle and decorative bar.
Each end of the toggle bar resembles stacked balls, recalling the oval-cartouche stacked-cannonball signature of German jewelry chain-specialist Jakob Bengel, who founded his business in Idar-Oberstein in 1873. Due to WWII, the Bengel factory, which is now a museum, permanently closed. His pre-1940 unsigned designs were largely overlooked until his factory catalogues were rediscovered decades later, which enabled 21st-Century books to be published about one of the leading manufacturers of Art Deco costume jewelry. Bengel pieces without the cartouche can be distinguished by thin metal chain links combined with single or bi-color Bakelite pendants in repeating geometric shapes like balls, semi-circles, rectangles, bars, rings or ribbed texture.
As Germany was the first country to license Bakelite for factory production since the 1910s, during the next 20 years its costume-jewelry designers began to feature locally-produced colorful Bakelite instead of glass or early semi-synthetic plastics. Between the world wars during poor economic conditions in Germany, its jewelry producers who were manufacturing for export were not motivated to stamp their country on such products.
The design of this Bakelite-charm necklace seems inspired by one-of-a-kind chunkier-chain charm necklaces commissioned for couture clothing ensembles by international fashion leader Parisian Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. She only produced her trend-setting commissioned jewelry...
Category
Vintage 1930s German Art Deco Chain Necklaces
Materials
Yellow Gold, Base Metal, Gilt Metal
Antique ArtDeco French LampworkGlass GalalithFans SilverRondelles Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
This antique French early Art-Deco period two-strand necklace is strung with a variety of Parisian handcrafted beads that date to the early 1920s, including sea-green lampwork glass,...
Category
Vintage 1920s French Art Deco Multi-Strand Necklaces
Materials
Rock Crystal, Silver, Sterling Silver
MiriamHaskell 1930s Torsade Set GiltFiligreeCapped FauxPearls Earrings & Choker
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
During the Art Deco period, Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess designed this blue-and-white glass-beaded hand-sewn torsade set of dangle earrings and a choker necklace, whose knotted string is capped with their characteristic Russian-gilt brass flora filigree. Coinciding with the American Great Depression, to offer some less expensive costume jewelry than her initial ready-to-wear styles featuring Parisian hand-crafted materials found in French couture, Haskell reduced the cost of some of her findings by locally sourcing stamped metal and incorporating hand-pressed glass beads from Germany and Czechoslovakia.
With a loop, the line from hand pressing the glass can only be found on the blue beads, while the white ones are coated in an organic material like authentic French faux pearls. The ends of the textured cords that string the beaded set were frayed to form a fuzzy opaque dome that hides the knots attached to the filigree caps.
No Haskell jewelry was signed before 1947. The unsigned necklace...
Category
Vintage 1930s American Art Deco Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Brass, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold
Antique French ArtNouveau MuchaMajorelleGruberStyle SignedNancyGlass SilveredBox
By Daum
Located in Chicago, IL
Influenced by the Art Nouveau illustrations of Alphonse Mucha, this antique French jewelry box display case is decorated with silvered bronze or ...
Category
Antique 1890s French Art Nouveau Figurines and Sculptures
Materials
Gilt Metal, Mixed Metal, Silver Plate, Brass, Bronze
Antique RareVenetian ArchimedeSegusoStyle HandblownGlass Links Pendants Necklace
By Archimede Seguso
Located in Chicago, IL
Like elegant multi-pendant festoon necklaces from the mid-1800s, this antique 19th-Century Italian glass choker collar by the Seguso family that founded Vetri d'Arte on the Venetian island of Murano features three one-inch-drop pendants, which here include reddish pink mouth-blown glass balls with golden reflections that are supported by brass findings and unusual ecru glass links that form a chain. The handcrafted closed links appear to be miniature versions of the style made famous in the next century by the family's descendant Archimede Seguso (1909-1999), whom Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel worked...
Category
Antique 19th Century Italian Artisan Chain Necklaces
Materials
Brass
Louis Rousselet ArtDeco Glass FloralLampwork BlackBeaded SilverToggle Necklace
By Louis Rousselet
Located in Chicago, IL
With a distinct silver twisted toggle clasp and multiple kinds of nubby rondelles dating to the late 1920s, Parisian parurier Louis Rousselet's workshop handcrafted this glass beaded...
Category
Vintage 1920s French Art Deco Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Silver, Sterling Silver
Antique ArtNouveau European FauxLampwork Glass Flora CherryBlossom Long Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
With a silver clasp that could be as old as the Victorian period and in an Art-Nouveau style with pale intricate flora motifs, this antique long glass necklace features lampwork-like...
Category
Vintage 1920s Austrian Art Nouveau Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Silver
Antique ArtNouveau Austria Scheid RareMark Pave BlueZircon Silver Snake Brooch
By Georg Adam Scheid
Located in Chicago, IL
During the Art-Nouveau period while German-born Vienna-based silversmith, niello master, and entrepreneur Georg Adam Scheid (1837-1921) was prospering from a related refinery busines...
Category
Early 20th Century Austrian Victorian Brooches
Materials
Aquamarine, Diamond, Sapphire, Zircon, Silver, Sterling Silver
MiriamHaskell 1945 PeacockBeads Parure Wired Bracelet Earrings 16Strand Necklace
By Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess--before 1947 when the brand mark was added and while couture-style adjustable-hook necklaces were in demand in post-war America--produced t...
Category
Vintage 1940s American Baroque Revival Multi-Strand Necklaces
Materials
Crystal, Pearl, Gold, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold
Henry Schreiner 1930s ProngSetCrystal Flora Spray Paisley Shadowbox Gilt Brooch
By Henry Schreiner
Located in Chicago, IL
Henry Schreiner, the Austrian-born blacksmith founder of Schreiner New York in 1932, handcrafted this multi-color prong-set Bavarian-crystal, stylized-flora spray, gold-gilt brass br...
Category
Vintage 1930s American Artist Brooches
Materials
Crystal, Brass, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal
AlaiaParis 1990 Bodycon Black Set Leather Curvy Skirt & LogoPointelle Tshirt
By Azzedine Alaïa
Located in Chicago, IL
This Alaia Paris black set of a very soft 100% leather high-waisted derriere-enhancing pencil mini skirt and rare logo scoop-neck T-shirt were made around the early 1990s by the foun...
Category
1990s French Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
HAR 1950s BezelSet&PaveCrystal Enameled CastSilver Flowers&Hearts Bracelet
By Hargo Creations
Located in Chicago, IL
With the mid-century hallmarks of handcrafted costume jewelry by New-York-City-based Hargo Creations but without the post-copyright signature (HAR), this early clamper cuff bracelet ...
Category
Mid-20th Century American Victorian Clamper Bracelets
Materials
Crystal, Gold, Base Metal, Brass, Enamel, Gilt Metal
MiriamHaskell WWII FrankHess Layered Rhodoid & Crystal Montee Climber Earrings
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
Beginning in 1939, American Miriam Haskell asked her first designer since 1926 Frank Hess to sparingly use metal in their costume-jewelry collections during WWII while war materials were needed. So not unlike the Spring/Summer 2024 floral appliques designed by Balmain artistic director Olivier Rousteing, hand-crafted rose-motif plastic never looked more beautiful in the 20th Century than such eye-catching glossy creations as these ballet-pink clip earrings by Hess. In this reflective and sparkling pair of lightweight slightly asymmetrical climbers, shiny film-like rhodoid is hand-cut, layered in three dimensions for irregular shadows, and riveted with clear roses-montees to a thin silver metal frame, which replaced Hess' characteristic wired Russian-gilt brass frame while still resembling his earlier construction (see our other Haskell listing for an early double fur-clip chain lariat). The earring clips, with tiny holes that were used for unsigned Haskell...
Category
Vintage 1940s American Modern Clip-on Earrings
Materials
Crystal, Mixed Metal
Hermes Designer Adnet 1920s French ArtDeco Set 6ShotGlass Metal&Rosewood Carrier
By Hermès
Located in Chicago, IL
French Jacques Adnet--before he gained fame designing furnishings for Parisian luxury artisan-house Hermes--created this Art-Deco-period bar set with his characteristic combination o...
Category
1920s French Barware
Prada 2000 RunwayLook1 FoxFurSilkCollar BlackCheckedWoolSkirtSuit 3PieceEnsemble
By Prada, Miuccia Prada
Located in Chicago, IL
Italian Miuccia Prada debuted for her Fall/Winter 2000 womenswear collection this Vogue-photographed fashion-show runway "Look 1" three-piece ensemble, which includes a 1940s-inspired thick check-texture wool skirt suit with defined hour-glass waist, padded shoulders and plush fur accessory. While Prada became known in the 1990s for some of the best accessories, this detachable multi-color red-fox collar with thin beige grosgrain ties and silk-lined reverse was featured in its ad campaigns and magazine spreads as the versatile must-have of the season at the turn of the century.
With 100% virgin wool, sharp shoulders, flap pockets, and full lining, the warm jacket...
Category
1990s Italian Dress and Coat Ensembles
Bally New Nappa Leather Isabel CushionedArch Dark Green Ballet-Style Loafers
By Bally
Located in Chicago, IL
This Bally never-worn pair of luxurious nappa leather dark green almost-black slip-on shoes mixes the classic styles of a round-toe ballet flat and an unadorned sleek loafer with a l...
Category
2010s Swiss Shoes
MiriamHaskell c1930 Hess GoldGiltChain CappedAquaGlass ThumblessClasp Bib Choker
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
Around 1930, Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess designed this Russian-gilt brass ribbed-chain link bib necklace featuring 27 strands of varying length each wired to aqua faux-turquoise pressed glass beads with characteristic gold pronged-bell caps and thumbless spring-ring clasp. After the Great Depression began in the United States in 1929, to keep her popular European-style costume jewelry affordable among fashionable ladies, Haskell began using less expensive imported handcrafted glass beads, which included Czech and German pressed glass. Initially when she opened her handmade ready-to-wear costume-jewelry business in 1926 in New York City's downtown McAlpin Hotel, she had used only the finest Parisian glass beads and findings like French couturiers including Coco Chanel who soon became her competition. which Haskell promoted with the French name of her first boutique Le Bijou de L'Heure.
If interested in assembling a suitable set of early Haskell-Hess pieces with similar aesthetics, please see our other listings for the aqua glass-and-enamel scalloped button clip earrings and the "peacock" coil arm-band bracelet with Parisian lampworked glass, faceted crystal, painted galalith beads, and cupped rose...
Category
Vintage 1930s American Baroque Revival Chain Necklaces
Materials
Turquoise, 24k Gold, Yellow Gold, Brass, Gilt Metal
MiriamHaskell WWII Era GoldGilt Filigree Cast Butterfly FrankHess Pre1945 Brooch
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
A child of the Art-Nouveau period, Miriam Haskell loved its butterfly design-motifs, which are found in many pieces of costume jewelry by her first designer Frank Hess. His butterfly...
Category
Vintage 1940s American Art Nouveau Brooches
Materials
Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal, Base Metal
MiriamHaskell WWII PurpleGlassFlowers GoldLeaves WiredPlasticBack Pre1945 Brooch
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
Beginning in 1939, Miriam Haskell asked her first costume-jewelry designer Frank Hess to spare the use of metal during WWII while war materials were needed in the United States. So t...
Category
Vintage 1940s American Baroque Revival Brooches
Materials
Mixed Metal
1950sRobertGoosensStyle CastOakLeaf Talisman BaroqueFauxPearls GoldChain Sautoir
Located in Chicago, IL
While contracted as an independent craftsman to create one-of-a-kind costume jewelry for French Masion Degorce from 1953 until it closed in 1957, Parisian goldsmith Robert Goosens (1927-2016) was initially commissioned by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel to craft one-of-a-kind Byzantine-style long decorative-chain necklaces with sculptural gilt-metal or faux-pearl charms, while she intended to layer many of them to accessorize her couture clothing for clients and herself.
Relevant to the unclear designer of our vintage nine-pendant ribbed-chain sautoir with an unsigned gold-gilt silver barrel clasp and five unique kinds of intricately textured vermeil and baroque faux-pearl charms, a similar lost-wax-cast center pendant with three-lobed-foliate prongs also in the shape of oak leaves can be seen in the book (p.28), Bijoux de Haute Couture: Collection Robert Goossens, by Gilles Plazy and Chantal Bizot published in Paris in 2000. The same year, that Chanel-signed pendant necklace was auctioned by Christie's in a lot including an unsigned long chain sautoir attributed to Chanel. Further, another 1stDibs dealer currently has a $12,500 listing for an unsigned but book-published early-1950s faux-pearl sautoir for Chanel that also features intricate pinecone talismans like ours, but decorated with poured glass and crystals crafted by Maison Gripoix.
When Chanel relaunched her post-war business ventures, Goosens soon became her favorite parurier before founding his eponymous Maison Goosens, whose venerable workshop later designed metal work for its own jewelry-and-furnishings brand Goosens Paris.
Notably, Chanel did not add a brand signature to costume jewelry until the late 1950s, while some pieces prior to this by multiple paruriers are documented to lack any identification that Chanel was earlier known to stamp such as "France", "Made In France" and/or "Depose". Recently, a similar unsigned/unmarked longer chain sautoir with fewer filigree-and-pearl pendants that was believed to be by Robert Goosens for Chanel...
Category
Vintage 1950s French Byzantine Pendant Necklaces
Materials
Pearl, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal, Silver, Vermeil
Gucci TomFord 2001AwardYear Draped Suede PlungingV-Neck Collared Black Pullover
By Gucci, Tom Ford for Gucci
Located in Chicago, IL
For his Gucci Fall/Winter 2001 collection, American Tom Ford designed this sleek partly-knit pullover tunic featuring a plunging V-neck collared suede front that drapes in a reverse ...
Category
Early 2000s Italian Pullovers
Mimi Di N 1981 GoldGiltMetal Set Pinecone Sprays ConvertiblePendants BeltBuckles
By Mimi di N
Located in Chicago, IL
This highly-textural gold-gilt metal two-piece belt buckle or convertible pendant depicting sprays. of pine cones and needles was designed by Mimi di N in 1981, as noted in the signe...
Category
Vintage 1980s American Artisan Pendant Necklaces
Materials
Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold
Couture 2000s Four HandCut Rubies Italian Goldsmith Sterling Silver Hook Earring
By UGO CACCIATORI
Located in Chicago, IL
Italian-Riviera goldsmith Ugo Cacciatori designed this signed one-of-a-kind sterling-silver hook earring featuring four hand-cut rubies for a fashion show during a Paris Couture Week...
Category
Early 2000s Italian Contemporary Drop Earrings
Materials
Ruby, Sterling Silver
Couture Antique Tuxedo Wool Ribbed&QuiltedSatin FullyLined&Padded Black Tailcoat
Located in Chicago, IL
This antique ArtDeco-period couture British wool and satin black tuxedo button-decorated open-breasted tailcoat fits a women's U.S.-size 6 so well that we think it was custom-made fo...
Category
1920s British Tailcoats
1991 RunwayLook1 KatharineHamnett IridescentGreen FeltedCollar Fitted Skirt Suit
By Katharine Hamnett
Located in Chicago, IL
For the Spring/Summer 1991 made-in-Italy collection of her eponymous London-based brand, Katharine Hamnett debuted this fitted elongated jacket skirt-suit as "Look 1" in her fashion show (see our photo of the video coverage). Her working-woman styled model was unexpectedly accompanied by a male model adorned in a cowboy hat, which suggests her power over a strong man. In a different color without metallic accents, this sleek three-button single-breasted lined jacket is paired with a matching seafoam-green tucked skirt with back slit. Immediately apparent based on the seven piped princess seams around the torso, the jacket is expertly tailored like Savile-Row menswear. It also has a speckled-grey felted collar, piped front pockets, and triple-buttonhole split sleeves. The skirt closes in back with a center zip with hook-and-eye fastening.
The durable cotton-blend fabric, which is in excellent condition, is notable for its slight iridescence with a soft luster that links it to the reflective elements that dominated that colorful collection by Hamnett. We included photos of the suit lit by sunlight with yellow tones and in lighting with...
Category
1990s British Skirt Suits
CommeDesGarcons 2000 StuddedLeather PinstripeWool RawEdgeNeck HalfDress Topcoat
By Comme des Garçons
Located in Chicago, IL
Japanese Rei Kawakubo designed this wool-blend half-dress topcoat with embossed pinstripes for her Comme des Garcons Fall/Winter 2000 collection, which she titled "Hard And Forceful"...
Category
1990s Japanese Topcoats
Couture 1990s France MartinGrant Paris Wool Hourglass DrapedWaist SlitSkirt Suit
By Martin Grant
Located in Chicago, IL
As French couture made by Martin Grant at his Paris atelier in the Marais in the mid-1990s, this pale grey plaid lightweight-wool slit-skirt suit has many hand-tailored elements that...
Category
1990s French Skirt Suits
TomFord 2001 1stYSLCollection TuxedoStyle SheerSeams LeatherTrim Black SkirtSuit
By Tom Ford, Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
Located in Chicago, IL
For his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche for Spring/Summer 2001, American Tom Ford debuted on the Paris runway this tuxedo-style black virgin-wool evening skirt-su...
Category
Early 2000s French Skirt Suits
JohnGalliano 1stYearChristianDior SilkChiffon BiasCut Layered BallerinaDressGown
By Christian Dior, John Galliano for Christian Dior
Located in Chicago, IL
During John Galliano's first year as French fashion-house Christian Dior Creative Director in Paris for haute couture and ready-to-wear in 1997, he designed for his Spring/Summer 199...
Category
1990s French Ballerina Dresses
Couture 1990s LingerieLike EyelashLace Silk Red & Black Evening Sheath Dress
Located in Chicago, IL
This couture lace transparent red-and-black floral-pattern silk sleeveless evening midi dress, with an eyelash-lace boatneck and hem, is constructed with torso tucks above and below ...
Category
1990s American Evening Dresses
1990s Belgian 1stCollection Branquinho Iconic ChevronPleat TullePetticoat Skirt
By Veronique Branquinho
Located in Chicago, IL
For the first eponymous-brand debut in Paris by Belgium-born Veronique Branquinho for her Spring/Summer 1998 collection with couture details, the former Flemish-trained fashion desig...
Category
1990s Belgian A-Line Skirts
Martin Margiela 1990s Unique UpcycledGarters&Crotch Velvet Halter Black Crop Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
Captured in a video-still from his Fall/Winter 1992 collection fashion-show in Paris, Martin Margiela uniquely upcycled the seam intersections from the crotch, dart or tuck on deconstructed garments to make a high-relief topstitched cross shape as the mysterious design feature on some of his tops and knits. On this Maison Martin Margiela silky black velour crushed-velvet cropped halter, the altered seams are the subtle central focal point of the transformed fully-lined viscose breastplate. The backless top is constructed like a pullover bra with flexible elastic crisscrossing straps with metal hardware, which appear to be hosiery garters or suspenders. The iconic off-white blank brand label is hand-sewn at its four corners on the reverse to just the lining, where there are tags above it noting the material, size and manufacture-country Italy.
The French-size 40 is flexible enough to be worn over another top or alone by a range of sizes from 38-42 depending on bust size. Since our small-size mannequin is backless, when worn by the buyer the upper part of the halter will sit higher on the chest and the bottom corners attached to the elastic bands will be less visible in back than we could photograph. Fortunately, we found the same Margiela halter in a sunny black-and-white photoshoot from Winter 1995, and included our pics of a few shots. In one, notice where the black velvet is reflecting sunlight as white due to the irregular texture of the seamed cross.
The Fall/Winter 1995 "Circus" collection by Maison Martin Margiela featured similar lined velour and sleeveless tops in the fashion show, but we could not find any photos in that collection of the distinct X-shaped elastic straps that boldly define the back of our top. Comparatively, a F/W 2006 Martin Margiela sequined...
Category
1990s French Bras
LingerieLike 1950s Ruched CrepeSilk & SemiTransparentOrganzaNetSkirt MiniDress
Located in Chicago, IL
This unusual mid-century lingerie-style black mini dress with a semi-transparent skirt that conjures a historic pinup-girl like Bettie Page is suitable as a mini dress as part of an evening ensemble. It was probably meant by its New York designer to be paired with slim cropped pants, which became popular in The States after worn by Hollywood-movie actresses Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe. The A-line short dress was most likely made by the former ready-to-wear fashion company following the revolutionary debut by French Christian Dior of his couture cinched-waist-voluminous-skirt "New Look" collection, whereafter German Sonja de Lennart introduced "Capris" in 1949, and American Hugh Hefner launched Playboy magazine in 1953.
The complex hourglass-shaped garment features a double v-neck four-seamed ruched lined bodice in a crepe silky woven fabric. Its defined gathered bust extends from the chest seams at two angles to form short dolman sleeves only in the front, while there are arm seams in back. The gathered see-through black faux-lace organza flared skirt reveals a black velvet-textured scalloped floral pattern with a net underlayer. With beige lining, the self-trim band at the waist enables the folded scalloped-lace pattern to continue to stand out on the opaque black torso. The edges of the peplum and sleeves are further cut in a scallop shape to resemble more delicate eyelash-lace trim.
The brand label of the obsolete line is the only interior tag that remains. Camouflaging the midsection, the flattering dress will best suit a U.S.-size 6. It can also be worn by larger sizes with a relatively slim waist and small or large bust as there is no restriction at the hips or wide armholes. At the waistline, a hook and looped cord fasten over the bypass zipper to better conceal it. Notably, the steel-tab-and-teeth zipper is an original U.S-made Murlen model, which was used in new clothes from the 1940s to 1960s and helps to date the mid-century dress.
Category
1950s American Mini Dress
Artist1990s Sterling GardenOfTimePendants ForFreshFlowers Jewelers'Werk Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
Created by a gallery-exhibited progressive artist in the 1990s in a way that foreshadowed TheMet museum exhibition "Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion", this ingenious signed sterling-silver chain link collar necklace features eight convertible pink-gem-accented pendants that can fasten your own pierceable larger elements, such as fresh flower heads or cut felt. It was initially acquired in the late 1990s from the U.S. avant-garde modern jewelry exhibition space Jewelers' Werk based in Washington D.C., which is printed on the included original black box with gold text. The versatile necklace that fastens with a handcrafted filigree floral clasp enables the wearer to choose from a wide variety of objects that can be pierced by the removable prong-set sparkly fuschia studs--from felt balls to folded origami paper--to attach to the likewise removable oxidized sterling cups.
The perhaps morganite or crystal studs, whose silver ends are not visible after affixing such objects, can be mixed or interchanged with your own earring stud(s) or dangling pieces to enable more movement when worn.
As shown in photos, a buyer can avoid the contact of such interchangeable objects with long hair by removing studded cups towards the back of the neck, whereby symmetrical sterling-stud fasteners that serve to link the chain necklace will discreetly remain. If the collector would like to use all of the sterling cups that surround the neck, one of their studs is missing its crystal, which can be replaced if entirely pink stones are preferred.
We photographed the necklace populated with fresh and dehydrating daisy heads, which slowly wilt or dry while worn. With inspiration from TheMet current museum exhibition featuring beautiful contemporary clothes designed to show the passage of time, along with some of its archived fragile fashion based on the fiction-inspired theme "The Garden Of Time...
Category
1990s American Artisan Link Necklaces
Materials
Crystal, Morganite, Sterling Silver
Casadei 1990s LimitedEdition GetaPlatform PatentLeather & SatinChinoiserie Mules
By Casadei
Located in Chicago, IL
These 1990s Casadei limited-edition black patent-leather, calf-leather and ornamental-Chinoiserie metallic-embroidered satin-bound peek-toe mules with towering five-inch heels are supported by a unique platform with cut-out sides, which pay homage to traditional Japanese-geta sandals...
Category
1990s Italian Shoes
Agent Provocateur 1990s LingerieLike BlackLaceSet BikiniHalterTop & Short Shorts
By Agent Provocateur
Located in Chicago, IL
Vivienne Westwood's son Joe Corre opened the first lingerie boutique for his sexy London-based brand Agent Provocateur in Soho in the mid-1990s, when the sole owner of this black lac...
Category
1990s British Loungewear
Black Tahitian Pearl Dutch DroogDesign 1998 Unique Third Nipple Gold Disk Brooch
By Artistian Made
Located in Chicago, IL
In the 1990s when the Dutch collective Droog introduced international leaders of late 20th-Century functional art such as Ron Arad, Marcel Wanders, Jurgen Bey, Hella Jongerius, and Tejo Remy, the Netherlands-based brand was one of the most successful producers of conceptual design. The collaboration was co-founded in 1993 in Amsterdam by the jewelry and product designer Gijs Bakker (b. 1942), who commissioned his protege French artist Frederic Braham in 1998 to create this one-of-a-kind brooch for his young Droog-represented jewelry line "Chi ha paura...?". The Italian phrase means "who is afraid of?".
This natural satin-lustre South Sea black-Tahitian 15 x 10 mm baroque thick-nacred pearl, which is bezel-set in oxidized sterling on a sharp silver stud for push-back fastening as a lapel or tie pin, is surrounded by a removable textured gold disk brooch with the Chiapaura maker's mark, artist's signature, abbreviated year and assay symbol. Notably, while farmed pearls from this French-Polynesian region are scarce, it is rarer to find one over 12mm. This dark gray one is also exceptional for its desirable secondary tone of peacock green with minimal surface imperfections.
From normal use, the unseen back of the disk is missing chips of ecru enamel where it contacts the fastening knob. This reveals that the disk is solid gold.
Like other functional conceptual design represented by Droog, the brooch is more than a beautiful piece of fine jewelry featuring multiple contrasting elements, as it could be a provocative "third nipple" if worn on a tie or scarf. Given the Dutch origin of the brand, we recall the famous 15th-Century oil-painting by Johannes Vermeer, known as "Girl with a Pearl Earring". Who is afraid of girl or boy with a third nipple?
We acquired this brooch from a jewelry collector who had purchased it from the Italian gallery...
Category
1990s Dutch Artist Brooches
Materials
Black Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Pearl, Gold, Silver, Mixed Metal, Sterling...
Julianna Delizza&Elster AuroraBorealisEncrusted Chunky Gunmetal SixLink Bracelet
By Delizza & Elster
Located in Chicago, IL
New York City designers Delizza & Elster created this eye-catching sparkly colorful chunky heavy six-link gunmetal bracelet in the late mid-century. ...
Category
Vintage 1960s American Baroque Revival Link Bracelets
Materials
Crystal, Base Metal, Copper, Gilt Metal
Miriam Haskell 1940s Earliest Signature RussianGilt Brass FleurDeLis Earrings
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
With the earliest brand signature from 1947-1949, these Miriam Haskell (1899-1981) hand-wired Russsian-gilt brass floral French-wire-clip earrings were created by her first designer ...
Category
Vintage 1940s American Baroque Revival Clip-on Earrings
Materials
Brass, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold
MiriamHaskell 1926-1939 Crystal. Glass Galalith Beads GoldGilt WireCoil Bracelet
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
This Miriam Haskell (1899-1981) brass-wire wrap coil bracelet that features handcrafted peacock-colored beads and decorative gold-gilt brass was created by her first designer Frank H...
Category
Early 20th Century American Baroque Revival Beaded Bracelets
Materials
Crystal, Brass, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold
ArtDeco Marcasite&Pyrite Sparkly SterlingSilver Geometric Filigree WideBand Ring
Located in Chicago, IL
Encrusted with mixed-cut pyrite and marcasite stones for gold and silver reflections, this extremely-sparkly double-rimmed wide thick sterling-silver ring was designed by an artisan ...
Category
Mid-20th Century American Art Deco Cocktail Rings
Materials
Marcasite, Pyrite, Sterling Silver
Yamamoto 1990s BiasCut NotchedLapelJacket & MaxiSkirt RibbonTrimmed NavyWoolSuit
By Yohji Yamamoto
Located in Chicago, IL
In his classic long flared silhouette, Japanese Yohji Yamamoto skillfully designed with bias-cut draping both this navy ribbon-trimmed notched-lapel single-breasted lined jacket and ...
Category
1990s Japanese Skirt Suits
AnnDemeulemeester 1996 Wool Set RibbedHighNeckKnit & BiasCut LowWaistMiniSkirt
By Ann Demeulemeester
Located in Chicago, IL
Like a turtleneck ensemble acquired by TheMet Costume Institute, Ann Demeulemeester designed this bold-silhouette contrasting-texture wool set of chocolate ribbed high-neck cropped tight knit sweater and black bias-cut crepe mini skirt for her Fall/Winter 1996-1997 collection, when the latter low-waisted garment without a waistband was worn on the Paris runway over trousers. The soft thick darted pullover jumper characteristically has the designer's hallmark of oversized exaggerated cuffs, which can be left unfolded for a more feminine look. The Belgian designer meticulously tailored the brushed-wool skirt so that its three seams are in the back, where there are also darts to flatter the bias drape, two belt loops, and invisible zip closure at the center.
Aside from featuring knitted turtlenecks in almost every ensemble that debuted on the runway that season, this collection was significant because Demeulemeester--who was known for her black-and-white palette of monochromatic pieces until she retired from her independent label in 2013--added colors and textures including this sweater. However, red was the only color featured on the runway. For an alternative pairing idea, we included a photo of a similar brown ribbed darted high-neck sweater, which was worn in Demeulemeester's runway show for Fall/Winter 2000, but with a shiny billowy slit maxi skirt...
Category
1990s Belgian Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
JohnGalliano 1999 BiasCutSilk ChevronWoolFanPleat TealGreen Elongated ShiftDress
By John Galliano
Located in Chicago, IL
While John Galliano was also creating his early Christian Dior haute-couture fashion collections as its acclaimed creative director, for Fall/Winter 1999 ready-to-wear for his ongoing eponymous Paris-based fashion house, the Brit designed this teal-green woven-wool day-to-evening dress with a luxurious bias-cut satin silk underlay and couture-like finishing. Evidenced by this dress, at that time Galliano was championed by the editors of U.S. Vogue as the leader of the sleek ultra-feminine trend. The influential magazine had earlier helped to establish him in Paris with a U.S. financial backer for an independent atelier and in America among high-end retailers--from where this dress was purchased by the sole owner, but never worn.
Although its streamlined elegance that creates a striking silhouette has the look of a conservative linear dress...
Category
1990s French Sheath Dresses
Schreiner 1950s ProngSet UniqueGreen ABCrystals PaveCrystalLeaves Silver Brooch
By Schreiner of New York
Located in Chicago, IL
This colorful prong-set crystal spray brooch by Schreiner New York was made to compliment luxury clothing by a U.S.-based fashion designer, such as Pauline Trigere, in the late 1950s. This piece is special because it shows the unique decorative technique that Schreiner used for a period of several years in reaction to the limited availability of the first aurora-borealis (AB) stones by Swarovski in 1956, which had been designed for Christian Dior.
In response to the availability of only the initial AB color that mostly reflected bright blue and the high demand from other designers, Schreiner's creative family soon applied transparent glass paint to create additional colors, such as the light-green painted AB crystals on this brooch. According to Henry Schreiner's late daughter who took over the business with her jewelry-designer husband, this enabled them to become the first to produce costume jewelry with AB stones in different colors, while Swarovski took several years to introduce similar colors.
All original painted AB crystals are intact in this brooch, which is significant since a lost stone...
Category
Vintage 1950s American Modern Brooches
Materials
Crystal, Silver, Brass
StellaMcCartney 2003 Runway Unique Silk Lace SheerChiffon Satin Bloomers Pants
By Stella McCartney
Located in Chicago, IL
Twenty-five years before Chemena Kamali revived the 1970s-pantaloon style for her Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Chloe-alumnus Stella McCartney designed for her eponymous Sprin...
Category
Early 2000s British Wide Leg Pants
Couture GaultierDesigner 2000s SemiPreciousStones Textiles DangleChains Earring
By Jean Paul Gaultier
Located in Chicago, IL
In the early 2000 while French Jean-Paul Gautier remained the designer at his eponymous Parisian fashion house, a Paris-based haute-couture runway-accessory designer was commissioned by him to create this handmade decadent street-culture-inspired wire-hook earring with multiple tumbled semi-precious stones, gilt chain and cord, and multi-color sequins that suggest divergent international cultures. On both the front and back, an explosion of deconstructed couture-textile remnants...
Category
Early 2000s French Egyptian Revival Chandelier Earrings
Materials
Quartz, Coral, Tiger's Eye, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal
Couture 1930s CocoChanel LinaBaretti SatinBlackCamellias PaveCrystals Gold Set
By Chanel
Located in Chicago, IL
This rare signed couture set of pave-crystal and gold-plated brooch and earrings from the Art-Deco period is marked in the manner of one-off costume jewelry commissioned...
Category
Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Brooches
Materials
Crystal, Gold, Gold Plate, Silver
Fendi Lagerfeld 2000 Runway FF Logo SilkChiffon&Buttons WoolPanel HighSlit Skirt
By Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi, Fendi
Located in Chicago, IL
While he maintained his design-leadership role at Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld (1933-2019) created limited-edition silk chiffon Fendi-logo prints to be glimpsed through multiple thigh-high...
Category
Early 2000s Italian Skirts
Dolce&Gabbana 1990s Lace Cut Work Black Ensemble WoolKnitTurtleneck Belted Skirt
By Dolce & Gabbana
Located in Chicago, IL
The Italian duo Dolce & Gabbana for their Fall/Winter 1995 runway show featured black lace ensembles that included this trio of merino-wool knit turtleneck with asymmetrical vertical...
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